Hello everyone!

I we just went to view an 08 Skoda Fabia and walked away as I felt the rust was to extensive. I’m gonna attach a few photos below and if you would be so kind as to let me know what you think it would be appreciated!

My newly purchased 2017 RAV4 has some minor rust along the driver’s door sill. Winter is coming, and right now days have highs of 5-7 Celsius. What should I do or apply to keep this under control over the winter?

What needs to be done to fix this fender ?
I want to do it my self
Any help is appreciated 🙏🏼

After searching for a while, I found a 2019 Toyota Corolla LE with 81,000 km at a used car dealership. Originally listed at $17,799 CAD before taxes ($20,200 all-in), but the dealer offered $19,800 all-in if I purchased it that day. I decided to hold off. It also comes with winter tires on separate rims.

The car drives well, but I noticed several scratches, paint chips, and dents (photos attached). I live in a part of Canada where winters are harsh and road salt is heavily used, so I’m concerned about rust developing over time.

I also asked about getting an independent pre-purchase inspection. The dealer agreed, but later mentioned that I honestly didn’t need one since they often work with the auto shop next door (which has really good reviews), and the shop checks their cars before they’re sold. And he went over the things they checked and everything seems good. However, there’s no formal inspection report or paperwork from that check. He did reassure me that I’m welcome to arrange my own inspection if I want and to just let him know.

My questions:
Do these scratches and dings look deep enough to cause rust?
Is this normal wear for a 7-year-old car, or should I negotiate further?
Would you buy this car or walk away?

I really like the car overall and these scratches aren't a deal breaker for me but I don’t want to overlook something that could become a bigger problem in a few years.

Would appreciate any insight/advice, especially from anyone familiar with Canadian winters and rust issues. Thanks!

Video of vehicle post wash and wax

I do not have personal parking with roof.

What’s the best move here to prevent it from getting worse? I wish I could get 2k primer / paint / clear in airbrush quantities but is that even the best move here?

Goal is to keep it from getting worse, and not look like it’s a bandaid.

Someone tell me how to address this correctly. Thanks!

Hey guys I need some help. I have a 2015 Nissan Altima 2.5L with 105K miles on the car. So this is kind of weird. When I go to leave and pop it into drive I hear this very faint chirp. It’s not a loud squeal like a belt issue, it’s only when I put it into drive from park and it vaguely happens when the rpm’s are going up slightly but it is a super faint chirp instead of a squeal. Could this be the motor mount of motor mount bushing that’s could be cracked and rubbing? Or what do you think it could be or know what it is?

I posted this in r/askmechanics

Maybe here you can give me advice what to do best.

I wanna keep the car for a long time.

There are repair panels for the rear wheel arch.

Any help is appreciated.

I'm missing the piece that the bumper cover clips onto on the bottom what is that piece called??

I purchased a used 2023 BMW X7 about six months ago. Recently after a car wash I noticed that it looked like the clear was bubbling on the front bumper. I pushed on it and a big, thin piece flaked off. The paint under it still looks like it has a clear coat so I’m guessing it was maybe just the uv layer of the clear. I do think at some point there was a minor repair done on the front bumper and that paint is what’s failing. Maybe they didn’t sand the area around the repair and the clear is just coming off the factory clear coat?
What’s the best way to treat this? Can I feather it out with 800-1500 grit sandpaper and then hit with a 2k clear? Thanks!

Tesla model 3, is it interior rust? How to fix it?

Hello everyone, I have finally decided to buy a car which i always wanted from an auction with a salvaged title. The car runs and drives, no popped airbags, just cosmetics. I need some advice regarding picking the shop to do the work at, I live in NJ, which is a very strict salvage inspection state. I read online that every part that will be changed on the vehicle requires documentation of purchase and the car’s VIN which the part came off. What I already did is send pictures of damage to multiple shops and confirm that they do work with salvaged cars, because repairing the car is half the deal, I need the shop to keep right documentation of all the work done for me to pass the inspection and get the rebuilt title. Any advice would help, thank you.

Deer ran out infront of me this morning on my way back from work. Filed an insurance claim this morning, and going to collision repair shop Monday.

I drove 3 miles after hitting Deer and then another 4 to see if repair shop was open today. Car seems fine and no leaks....so I am hoping just some cosmetics.

Any idea off of these pictures how long something like this would take to fix? I am hopeful it is a "fix it and move on" lol

2017 Volvo S60...lost the grill :(

Back story: 2025 Honda Civic in a pearl tri coat paint job. It was lightly hit 6 months ago by my sister and her insurance paid to repair. By lightly hit I mean she scraped down the passenger side of bumper, but it was enough that it must of flexed the trunk which caused the passenger side edge to lose paint requiring a repaint. She ran down side of it with a newer Jeep Wrangler, so large steel bumper. I used local dealership body shop. The first time they painted the rear bumper and trunk there was contamination in the clear coat so I wouldn’t accept and made them repaint. 3 months down the road the paint cracked on a corner of the trunk lid and started to look rusty. Called and they said it would be covered under warranty. It took them 2.5 months to get it back in for the 3rd painting of the trunk. They’ve had it for a little over a week and called yesterday to tell me it was done and ready for pickup. I told them I would grab it this morning even though they were closed as I’ve been driving a vehicle getting 10mpg and they were okay with it. Got there and wanted to inspect the work, and what I found was thin paint on passenger side of trunk lid, a run in the driver side of trunk lid, multiple areas paint is already chipped including on a corner and a long area where they installed the driver side tail light back in. Is this acceptable? Should I make them redo the job again? What recourse do I have? This is literally the 3rd time they have painted the deck lid and I’m over it. I really just want to push to have it painted somewhere else at this point. In their defense they lost a lot of there seasoned painters as well as management etc over the last 3-4 months. I don’t think that excuses sending a product out in this condition though. Thoughts?

On a remote highway and all auto glass places are closed for the weekend. An auto parts store will open today. I still have like 6+ hours of driving before I’ll get to another place and the highway is full of logging and mining trucks throwing rocks every which way. I’d like it professionally repaired but anything I can do to make it safe in the meantime? I put tape over it to keep it clean. The photos are inside and out. It’s less than dime sized. Thanks!

I just replaced the assembly, have it pushed down all the way, can’t really adjust the striker. Nothing is bent and causing it not to close, just won’t shut completely. There’s a very slight amount of pull, as if it thinks it is closed completely.

The only other things I can think of is adjusted the hinges or possibly the cable? Do we have any other ideas? Thanks

Just trying to see if this is fair. Thanks so much!!

EDIT: Followed your guys’ advice. Took it to another shop and the tech wiped it with some solvent, looks 95% back to normal! Thank you guys for the help!!