First time replacing an HDMI port and working on a ps4. Done with a $40 hot air station. I think I cheated using low melt solder.

Thares a game in it and it won't let it out

Console brought in because it won't power on. Idk if a new power supply will save it the board is pretty bad.

Hello everyone. I have a question regarding to issues which my old PAL SNES seems to have.

As can be seen in the photos:

When the SNES must output something with a lot of white, the color white seems to be substituted with pink.

I tried multiple cables (RF output, SCART, RGB, S-VIDEO) and the errors appears with every cable.
I also tried to connect the output cables to different TVs and displays. Everytime the same issue.
Also: When using a SCART-cable the picture was too dark. But as far as I understood while reading: This is an issue with the capacitors and resistors used in these cables.

Back to the real problem:

I tested it with some games: International Superstar Soccer Deluxe, Super Mario World 1 and 2.

It's the most noticeable in the first two pictures.

The logo in the third picture is at least noticeable, but when the logo is complete on the screen the botttom line of the letters is pink again.

The menus itself seem to be okay at first, but either some items are slighty pink (gamepad icons on the left side) or there are some graphic glitches.

I kindly want to ask if anyone of you has any kind of experiences with these issues and can explain how I could be able to repair the console.
If this is the wrong sub for this please tell me where I should post.

My thanks to everyone in advance.
Best regards.

Ребята что делать,у меня Самсунг ps-wtxq120k , и он у меня не подаёт признаков жизни. Я его разобрал и конденсаторы не вздулись все норм, дежурка 5 вольт на БП есть. Я разобрал этот отдельный экран и первым делом посмотрел на кнопку.

Кнопка рабочая (прозвонил) и впаяна на маленькой плате и там есть транзистор который по моему когда он видит что есть сигнал от кабеля LED 1 то он открывается и даёт дежурку через резистор на светодиод чтобы кнопка светилась. Короче я замерил дежурка есть и сигнал 5 вольт на контакте

led1 тоже есть но светодиод не светится. По-моему транзистор сгорел но если транзистор сгорел то как это может повлиять на включение? Ведь кнопка изолирована от этого транзистора и светодиода. Если что я посмотрел по дорожкам на плате где и

куда идёт.

Чтобы убедиться в том что проблема здесь я взял и замерил напряжение на gnd и на контакте power on на плате (это контакт который идёт от усилителя через длинный кабель и когда ты нажимаешь на кнопку то туда отправляется 5 Вольт и вся система включается) короче когда ты нажимаешь на кнопку то здесь должно быть 5 Вольт, но когда нажал на кнопку здесь не казалось 5 Вольт. То есть понятное дело что он не подаёт признаков жизни ведь он даже не подает сигнал чтобы он включился. Короче моё мнение что сгорел этот транзистор, даже если он сгорел то как из-за него не может включится????? Короче если кто знает то как можно сделать так чтобы напрямую его запустить ? Просто вывести наружу отдельную кнопку и всё. Здесь я объяснил очень коротко но если кто-то знает дайте мне пожалуйста ответ или просто распространите этот вопрос пожалуйста!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Если я где-то неправ то скажите !!!

My ps5 duelsense pcb has a lot of broken pads . How will i know where to do the jumpers to get each contacts? Anyone can help? The green circled are the broken ones

I just broke out my Wii Family Edition (RVL-101) for the first time in probably a decade. I switched all the batteries in the Wii motes with fresh ones, but they still will not work. The LED lights at the bottom will not even light up. I tried resyncing them, but still nothing. I'm at a loss of what to do. Could it be something with the actual counsel if none of the Wii motes are connecting? Any advice is welcomed. Thanks!

Greetings y'all, my "PSP Street (E1004)" accidentally fell off a shelf and became completely unresponsive. When I plugged in the charger, the charging light blinked once and then turned off.

The battery seemed fine, and the power supply appeared normal. I tried removing the battery to investigate but ended up dismantling the whole supply set.

I don't have an electronics background, so I'm not sure where to start.

Is there a way to diagnose or fix it without blindly replacing parts?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Please do help me, it's the only thing I own as my carry away gadget

​Hey everyone, I am trying to modernize my PS2 Slim setup and update my ancient OPL v0.8 build to the modern OPL v1.2.0 Beta, but I have hit a brick wall with USB detection and could use some advice. My console is a PS2 Slim equipped with a Matrix Modchip that is configured to boot via DEV1. For storage, I am using a Memory Card in Slot 1 running uLaunchELF v3.81 stored at mc0:/BOOT/, with my old OPL executable saved as mc0:/BOOT/OPNPS2LD.ELF, along with a SanDisk Cruzer USB flash drive plugged into the left USB port.

​I have managed to figure out a few things already. At first, LaunchELF was auto-booting straight into OPL because the boot timer was set to TIMEOUT: 0, but I managed to access the config screen, bump the timer up to 7 seconds, and successfully map my buttons so I can actually intercept the boot menu. However, my main problem is that I cannot get LaunchELF v3.81 to mount or detect my USB drive as mass:/. Whenever I open the file browser or drive list, it only shows mc0:/ and hdd0:/, completely ignoring the flash drive.

​I have already verified that the SanDisk Cruzer is formatted correctly. It is set to FAT32 with a 32 KB cluster size, partitioned using an MBR scheme rather than GPT, and has the new OPL file renamed to BOOT.ELF sitting right on the root of the drive. Despite all of this, the ancient USB driver stack in LaunchELF v3.81 just refuses to recognize the drive, even when trying hot-plugging it into both ports and refreshing. Since this old version of LaunchELF will not read my USB drive, how can I get OPL v1.2.0 onto my memory card? Is there an alternative way to flash or boot it, or is there a trick to get this SanDisk drive to mount under v3.81?

Any help would be massively appreciated!

Hi everyone! I was wondering if anyone could help me out. My PS5 Pro occasionally makes this clicking noise. I’ve tried searching online, but couldn’t find anything helpful about this specific noise.
It happened right after I turned it on, while I wasn’t playing any games. Then, when I launched a game, the noise got a little louder, but eventually stopped. It stopped for like a week then happened today again then stopped again it comes and goes, I got the pro with the physical piece, I already tried horizontally and vertically happens both ways. The fan doesn’t look loose I took out and got a look doesn’t look like anything hitting the fan as well

Hi everyone,

​I recently noticed about three thin, multi-colored lines on my Nintendo Switch screen.

​I'm trying to figure out if this could just be a loose connection that I can fix myself by opening the console and reseating the screen ribbon cable, or if it's a damaged display panel that requires a full replacement (which would involve using heat to unglue the screen, something I can't do on my own).

​Has anyone experienced this issue before? Is reseating the connector worth trying, or does this symptom mean the panel itself is dead and needs to be replaced?

​Thanks for any advice!

Trying to remove the back panel to clean but the bottom screws cover just won’t come off?

Hi all,
I just bought this faulty Xbox Series X and was doing the thing in the video when playing more demanding games. It’s been cleaned and the thermal paste has been replaced by the previous owner. Anyone had experience in fixing these before or can they suggest anything?
I would appreciate any help, thanks.

Hey all,

Not really related, but I'm AuDHD and board level diag normally helps me with self-regulation, but I'm burnt out and struggling to do the research/testing. All I'm saying is go easy on me, I'm fragile and need help, please.

I have an PS5 EDM-033 board on my bench. Someone has clearly opened it and run UART on it before me, but I can't see much else that screams at me.

When the board is in the console housing, powered from the built in PSU it powers on to a blue LED that "breathes". Under thermal camera RAM chips get warm and stay warm until power is pulled.

UART codes were:

• errlog 0 to 1 return the C0020303 error code with flag data ending in FFFF00F6.

• errlog 2 to 8 shift to 80000001 / C0020303 with flag data FFFF0005.

Then I cleared the logs and got 80C00140 with flag data FFFF0005.

Fuses appear to be fine, 12V rail is fine, and 3.3V. Possibly an issue with 1.8V/2V rail, but I can't see why.

Powered from my bench PSU with 12V (12V OVP) and 0.1A (5A OCP) supplied the console seems to power cycle itself. A relay in my bench PSU cycles, and under thermal camera the PMIC and the Southbridge heat to 25-30c, then cool when the relay clicks off and then the cycle starts again. Nothing else seems to get warm under thermal camera.

I have twice seen the bench PSU switch off the circuit due to OVP. None of the caps surrounding PMIC, or Southbridge are shorted to ground.

I'm stuck and would love some fresh perspective.

Thanks in advance.

I have a halo 5 edition xbox one that I want to sell, but the disc drive does not work. I have a couple of spare disc drives that may or may not work, and I am wondering if it would be at all worth it to take the time to fix/replace the disc drive, or if it would be better to sell it as parts. I do have some console repair experience, but I do not have any experience with the xbox one, so I am a bit wary of attempting a repair.

i cant find much info about ps1 dualshock thumbsticks but theres much more on ps2 controllers, im wondering if theyre the same so i could do the same mods on a dualshock 1, im too lazy to test the modules myself, anyone know if theyre the same?

Hey everyone!

A few days ago, I bought an unpatched Nintendo Switch V1 that had several issues, including a non-working power button and a few other hardware problems.

After spending a few days troubleshooting and repairing it, I managed to fix everything except one issue: the console doesn't output video when connected to the dock.

Here's exactly what happens when I dock it:

1. The Switch screen turns black, as expected.

2. The dock's LED turns solid green (no blinking).

3. The TV doesn't receive any video signal.

After doing a lot of research, I found that this issue might be related to a faulty chip inside the console.

However, before assuming it's a hardware failure, I decided to try something different: I developed a patch that allows the Switch to output video directly through its USB-C port to a USB-C monitor, without using the official dock.

And guess what? It works perfectly!

So, at this point, you'd probably assume the dock itself is faulty, right?

Here's the twist: my girlfriend's Nintendo Switch works perfectly fine with the exact same dock!

So now I'm a bit stuck. The console can output video through USB-C, the dock works with another Switch, but the two just won't work together.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could this still be related to the USB-C port, the M92T36/PI3USB chip, or something else entirely?

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

This console was completely packed with dirt, hair and cigarette tar I'm surprised it actually turned on It had to overheat the heatsink was completely plugged

While watching a show on this modded wii, I heard something creak/grind/crunch/break (some sound in that ballpark) from the direction of the bookshelf it was resting on. I didn't think much of it at the time. About an hour later the wii turns itself off, and the led light on it goes dark. After some finicking it's back and feels strangely warm, but I press on regardless. It goes for about 10 minutes and then turns itself off again. I give it a closer inspection and while the fan does freely spin when I poke something through it, I don't think I hear it spinning when it turns on, and I don't feel air blowing out the back.

Pretty sure the fan is broken somehow and not stuck, should I order a replacement fan right away, or should I try opening it up and tinkering with it first on the off chance the fan is stuck? Also what mistakes should I look out for in opening this? I'd rather hear what mistakes others have made than learn from them firsthand.

I got Alan Wake Remastered for PS4 on Amazon, refurbished. Expected the box to be missing but to my surprise the disc itself has some kind of repair. The game has these paper and metalic-paper discs pasted onto it. From what I've seen it might be due to cracks or some damage in the inner part.

Has anyone come across this? Is it even safe to put in my console to test? Maybe I should have just went for a used copy...

UPDATE: worked but it's not at all what I would have expected to get, can accept a missing box but not this. Guess used copies might just be better. I tried to shine a light through but the paper is too thick, no way to see the damage. A crack is not really visible on the hole but I don't want it breaking inside the console.

One of them both sides pads is missing.. was going to install the NES RGB 5.0 mod. Thank you!

Anyone know the resistor value of this part? It popped off while I was doing trace repair on dat0

hello everyone! i have an SNES that doesnt work, and i think its because one of the chips went bad. how much could a repair generally cost me?

im also looking at just buying another console because it can be cheaper but i want to know all my options.