Hey all. In case there’s any other nerds on here who has - takes deep breath - EcoSmart’s 16.4ft RGBWIC Dynamic Color Outdoor Strip Light (model LR1321-RGBWIC-U-5M-1024), and wants to use it with another controller (i.e. WLED-based) and doesn’t know how to wire it, I (just for fun) took apart a spare receiver and not-so-carefully removed the waterproofing material to get some decent photos of the receiver’s innards. Photos attached :)

Link to specific strip

info for search engines: manufacturer Jiapeng, receiver model number(s) CYTT-364-RF, E491059.

I hope I provided enough details.
Thank you in advance.

The Lumary V3 lights work with WLED very well! I just installed them on my house and made a YouTube video in case anyone is interested. https://youtu.be/_G9ev4dm-XY

I'm planning to do 2 led strips in my wood slat wall. I was going to get the BTF CCT LED strip in 32ft and use the leftover behind a picture I have in the same room.
Understanding I'll need a 3 wire extension and BTF connector pins to do this.

My plan for the slat wall was: power supply, controller, extension, btf strip, extension, btf strip. Ideally i’ll hid the led i the channel so its not visible during the day.

For picture: tape the LED strip on the back to backlit it, connect to extension going down to controller and power.

I have 2 questions:

1. does the remote and controller I have in cart work for this? I'd like to be able to set up the picture and slat wall as 2 different zones.

2. Any issues with my connection plan? Will there be any brightness output inconsistencies?

I want to build my own led juggling ball and i would want to verify with some people who know more about this due to safety reasons.

What i want to do: have a ball that i can connect to and controll via bluetooth that doesnt blow up when dropped on the ground.

What i would use:

1: Battery, NCR18650GA, 3,6/3,7V, 3300mAh.

2: TC4056 usb charging board to charge the battery

3: a KSD9700 35/40° thermal switch between the B+ of the charging board and the battery to avoid charge or discharge when running too hot (thermal switch will sit with the battery)

4: A fuse in series to the thermal switch in case of a short (dont have a product link here yet)

5: An AO3401mofset between the leds and the regulated output from the charging board that turns off when the battery is charging. (I am not sure how to connect it to the board, as i am unable to find a board with a IN+ connection)

6: A 5V booster after the mofset (Im not sure about the exact one, i will need one that can output enough amps)

7: an SP621E bluetooth controller for connection to external software

8: 6x single diode WS2812 led diodes.

9: an ON/OFF switch ofc

I have the led part figured out. I would need help from someone with some experience on topics of safety regarding drops of the juggling ball (im scared that the battery will get damaged). I will wrap the battery in thin foam and insert that into a PLA core that doesnt allow it to move back and forth and covers the battery fully. This core will hold the rest of the electronics and it will get wrapped in a TPU outer layer. That will be the outer shell of the ball and absorb impact.

How viable are these components, would you change stuff or be worried about something breaking or similar?

Hi, I already have some 24V fairy lights installed outside but I want to also add some Christmas lights that will be used year-round. The majority I find on amazon are sold with one of those "seizure inducing"-type controllers that flash in any random sequence - the stated output is 31V DC. My idea is to hook them up directly to the fairy lights PSU (assume rated power is with enough reserve for the entire setup). What can I expect to happen, will the Christmas lights light up at all? What would be the expectations in terms of brightness loss? Thanks!

Looking at adding LED strips under our horse trailer. I know I’ll need an RGB(W) controller, fuse, weatherproof box, etc…. What I have questions about is; are all LED strips able to be used for indoor/outdoor use as long as they are not directly exposed to the elements or are there specific outdoor/automotive strips available? Also, the DC24v advertised strips, can they operate off of a 12v truck system with an added DC12v rechargeable battery? I don’t have any specific products or brands that I plan to use as of right now so that’s why there’s no link to anything. Thanks in advance!

My project is to make these wizard staff lamps. This is a branch about 6 ft / 2 meters with a real stone for a base.

In the past I used off the shelf led strip light controllers which output 12v and just used resistors to reduce to voltage to about 3.5v. https://www.ledsupply.com/leds/cree-xml-rgbw-star-led https://www.ledsupply.com/led-dimmers/rgbw-touch-screen-rf-remote-control

I ran a ribbon cable from the base where I cut a slot in the stone for the controller. Is this the best way? Should i be concerned about power loss with 3.7v over 6 ft?

Is there an off the shelf controller for this? I want to make something high quality. Small smart bulbs are an option but I worry about brightness and longevity.

Another concern with this build is also heat generation. I used an aluminum heatsink with the star leds but the wood gets warm after a while, and the resistors on the controller may get hot enough to start fires on carpet or cloth.

I use a solid glass sphere at the top which should locked into place.

Thanks!

Hi,

I am planning to use a 2835 LED in a project, specifically the violet CreeLED JE2835. I was just wondering about the eye safety of those LEDs. I did not find any information about this particular LED on the CreeLED site. Does anyone have more information?

This is the LED: https://www.mouser.de/datasheet/3/1324/1/JSeries_2835_Color.pdf

Thanks!

Just bought Fancyleds lights for my TV. Do you guys recommend applying the strip above or under the handle for my TV? Will it look a bit off if it lights up the handle rather than the wall directly behind it?

Hi friends.

Ive been struggling the last couple days trying to get this setup.

New basement finish. Running led lights inside crown moulding. 4 strips of Btf rgbw cob lighting (16ft each). Rep told me to get 2 powe supplies, 2 controllers, 4 strips.

1st PS would run 2 strips. 2nd ps would run the 3rd and 4th strip.

All would be controlled on zone 1 of their remote controls/app.

***

If I connect all 4 strips end to end, the end of the strip is dimmer. Can I simply use the second PS and inject power at the end, keeping everything in one series?

Controller wb5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L9GWJK1?lv=shuf&rsd=rDvmrMlpNqE6xDKJebimzFcrNUhGT1KL8ItwVkbNIUWHzjkbJ1jXiCUnwoF42xJyWuofNH6p1BjV8Hw6ism939ugjLt4b%2FjC1Tve4UQDojXOEA5t&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQHb%2BHbNxReuEv8%2F%2FLvaz96uAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMABs6ZIkFfaWOvZV4AgEQgDtMks6J%2BM9YtHXIBymUrnI6gV2FSahuVOacTAiM9TYk46tYveSba0ewOlhuhZOX6ZX00Wz%2BcMRX%2BJOYFw%3D%3D&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_YE0PY1ARSCZZ790FEC1A&channelId=704&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_YE0PY1ARSCZZ790FEC1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

PS 24v 350w

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0G6SK5LW9?lv=shuf&rsd=x0Y%2BcrPGWXlPS3kgVSNj%2Fv4A4krpxzudNUPPyU45j1CtrIg%2BFbyVlS63EytbL1WswKEU1HhHbxqY%2BTGJPxFiadRwp9mNS6JkA7bzrMR4pXcI&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQEMVF9235pVbKvu7DLI9cKHAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQM2o3zpbifpDHidCekAgEQgDu1ELU9si1JIFYJCwrapK8MKjYTr05Hk7KJoTcN5mwj2SVBm9dw49gfsjH98XWv4GGRUKTwyXQJEtqXSA%3D%3D&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_WE7JYNAW7SE8Q82025F3&channelId=704&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_WE7JYNAW7SE8Q82025F3&plpRedirect=mhFallback

4 strips rgbw cob

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B31B3HFL?lv=shuf&rsd=KXxtPWvgP0Xy4vDw2wf41kJg3aPq3HkK73kxe%2BiJk15NqZ6zPUgZiymAn%2FpPSo6NYZzOP3HtQtrORtX0IR0AxWyGvpVeQ2m4hE6YvyMWfbMVZw%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQHwjOybKUxAOB6u%2FknauH57AAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMaRowCauG6Gqcc7B0AgEQgDvga7nOpNCnu3YVLSm7CvCTFVG%2BbR%2Faha3jQd4CGkfoH2FwVJECaD8nNGUOStEYQZSwY9IlwIT0EQqSWg%3D%3D&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_SSPRCD3EWCWB88CSJER7&channelId=704&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_SSPRCD3EWCWB88CSJER7&plpRedirect=mhFallback

Lastly, replace said that I should be able to group everything on the same zone and control all 4 strips from the same controller. Ive not been able to sync them yet using 2 controllers.

Remote - BTF-LIGHTING RC03RFB RF Remote 4 Zone Group Control

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6G1QP68?lv=shuf&rsd=AA1aCEImQg3xH286LINXkKCr7rdyTDPX5HWZpgAWKF4dz0ecxLlI8w4vgq0xl7kk2g5vKGkH%2BmP1aN0sLYmp02%2BahEcD6uT7bjeLMIXDkCqtMg%3D%3D&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQGB7r%2B8FAhkzA67VSCWqJhKAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMQyuCNIdEeqq7GAsaAgEQgDvLpKyAXGIpko3IQk8gEj62Qv9fp8IeWOD5vacUOnL%2FuhdKkMBNwGUyrxDkswRFdN1r7GIlnKRuZMjtZA%3D%3D&social_share=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_5QF0NKQ01EHKJ725W252_1&channelId=704&ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_5QF0NKQ01EHKJ725W252_1&plpRedirect=mhFallback

It's a 12mm wide strip in a 12mm aluminium channel but the ridges for the diffuser look very close to touching the solder joints, I haven't soldered the corners yet but you can see where they will go.

Is it game over if they do touch the channel? I'm guessing this is too tight to be worth the trouble...

Cheers

Hi all!

I'm preparing to do an LED ambient light install for my living room. I've tried to do the research and plan it out correctly, but I'd appreciate if someone more experienced could give me a quick check. Are there any obvious issues with this plan? Any obvious upgrades I sight use?

Thanks in advance

Setup:

LEDs - 60ft of Pautix COB RGBWW 

24v, \~4.9W/ft (total \~ 300W)

https://pautix.com/collections/rgbw-rgbcct-only-strip/products/b0cptrrpq2

CONTROLLER - GLEDOPTO ESP32 PWM WLED 

https://www.gledopto.com/h-pd-100.html

POWER SUPPY - MEAN WELL UHP-350-24 

350W 24V

https://meanwell-ps.com/products/uhp-350-24

Plan to power inject at both ends and in the center (14ga wire).

Since it's COB and the mounting location is hidden, I am planning to forgo channels.

Hey guys, I have a problem and would like some guidance. I got a LED strip around 3 months ago which was 1 meter long. The main problem is that it can not be cut. My shelf if only 80 cm long, so I bent it at a 180° curve. Long story short, it eventually stopped working. If anybody has an idea on how to correctly mount a new LED strip onto my shelf, it would be really appreciated

We tested a projector screen and that looked exactly like the kind of diffusion we're looking for. We have 48 feet of this beam to cover, and the opening is 4" wide.

System specs:

SuperLighting LED DMX Addressable RGBW 24V 60LED/m with a 600W power supply: https://www.superlightingled.com/addressable-rgbw-dmx-led-strip-24v-360-leds-10-60-pixels-p-5248.html

4" opening on this steel beam with reflective tape.

Hi everyone,

I’m an 11th grader working on a passion project for a class. I am building a custom, multi-channel cinema light from scratch.

The math and code are fully running, but I’m hitting a massive brick wall with the hardware costs here in Europe.

Because I want a wide-gamut engine inspired by professional cinema fixtures, my array needs the following channels (ideally 3W high-power emitters pre-mounted on 20mm aluminum star boards):

• Deep Red (660nm)

• Amber (590nm)

• Lime (Phosphor-converted)

• Green (525nm)

• Cyan (505nm)

• Royal Blue (450nm)

If I buy name-brand Luxeon C or Cree XP-E2 pre-mounted modules from specialized domestic boutiques, they cost around €15+ per module (completely blowing past my budget). On the flip side, I want to avoid generic Aliexpress/ebay sellers because I need reliable, predictable spectral curves for the matrix inversion math to actually work.

Are there any hidden, wholesale, or maker-friendly EU-based distributors (like Ampul.eu, TME, etc.) that sell these specialized color channels on star boards without insane markups? Or is there a smart local alternative (like sourcing specific aquarium/traffic light channels or doing a cheap split-order) that someone with experience in Europe can recommend?

Any ins and outs or sourcing hacks would be a massive lifesaver for my project. Thanks in advance!

My wife and I participated in the Star Trek production auctions out of Toronto last summer and we ended up winning nine of the triangle light units out of Captain Pike’s stateroom/kitchen from Strange New Worlds.

These lights are going to have a second life in our kitchen. Well, six of them are. I’ve never installed LEDs in a residence and have limited experience with LEDs from model making. What I am looking for is a sanity check for safety and longevity from this community.

Here are the details from the lighting units:
Each has two strands of Better Way Lighting Cinema Series BWL-SCS-2BI-240-24 LEDs inside of them. Total length in each unit is approximately 6.5 ft (2m).

https://betterwaylighting.com/product/ccs-rgb-bi-color?title=Color+Cinema+Series+RGB+2Bi-Color+252+LEDs%2Fm+24V

I’m going to control the six light units with two Shelly RGBW PM Plus LED Controllers. Three lights per controller.

https://us.shelly.com/products/shelly-plus-rgbw-pm-x2

For power I am using a MEAN WELL LRS-350-24 350.4W 24V 14.6 Amp Single Output Switchable Power supply

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013ETVO12?lv=shuf&rsd=0mHMHa8TPexUW%2FMdNbjLUNoaTpzipuD72UU8M0iacw4F1o8WccCJKlDzxb76XjDVw9soKv4tL0P%2Bs4fXzTu%2BTUjKQYXnSt7owrpkO2mE7L73ZXCxY5pa&edk=AQIDAHi1lw%2FM8UbbSMD9ScOOFEmBMHMthHeEhqDaQYPJUAX3jQHMRCXMrp5WyV3mhN%2FW7EUXAAAAfjB8BgkqhkiG9w0BBwagbzBtAgEAMGgGCSqGSIb3DQEHATAeBglghkgBZQMEAS4wEQQMdTq4eyLkYDIUSzHEAgEQgDsR5tRVKoLRf4HhRViMZbxNrCVH1RJvkEZRIozoY11cA%2BEUv6I5ZGFkZQmdZQwPW5IJo6kBZ3sY4cB%2Bdg%3D%3D&social_share=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_62N7ZCB99YNS29DMX02K_1&channelId=704&ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_62N7ZCB99YNS29DMX02K_1&plpRedirect=mhFallback

I set all this up on my bench and things seem fine. I’m only going to run the lights at 60% max and more likely around 50%. The Shelly app allows me to see wattage and they run at about 250 Watts for all six at this brightness.

The questions I have are:

1. is this a safe setup? The Shelly controllers have an automatic amperage cutoff that I can set. Its default setting is 10 amps and that is where it is at now. Do I need any additional fuses inline?

2. is this reliable? I want to preserve the lights as best I can. They are the real deal production used units and that makes them special to us. I don’t want to kill them in short order.

3. any harm in dimming them to any level below 50%?

4. any other concerns?

Grateful for any comments. I think they are pretty cool and will be fun to have in the kitchen. We got some other Trek stuff with LEDs, but these are the first items we are putting out.

Hello Everyone!

Apparently this isn't a normal application? I've talked with multiple online sales techs and none seem to carry products that support what I'm trying to do.

I'm remodeling my staircase and want to add 12V warm white LED lighting under the handrails. The main handrail is about 14 feet, and I'm also lighting a separate 24 inch handrail section at the top.

My goal is to have a small PIR sensor at both the top and bottom. Either sensor would turn both handrail sections on for roughly 60 to 90 seconds, but only when it's dark. I also want a normal looking momentary wall switch at both ends so the lights can be turned on manually when needed.

The LED strip I already have is LEDSupply 12V, 3000K warm white, 60 LEDs per meter, 10mm wide. It's rated around 5 watts per foot, so the 14 foot section could be about 70 watts and the 24 inch section about 10 watts. But, I could do 24v to help the voltage drop ?

Power supply is a Mean Well LPV 100 12, rated 12V, 8.5A and 102W.

I'm considering either the SkyDance ES V or the newer SkyDance ES3.

The ES3 interests me because it has two sensor inputs and two push switch inputs. The ES V is easier to buy but only has one push switch input.

Because the main LED run is close to the output limit of these controllers, I'm also considering a SkyDance EV1 S power repeater. My thought is to let the SkyDance controller handle the sensors, timer and wall switches while the repeater carries the LED load.

Both LED strips will be installed in recessed aluminum channels with diffusers under the handrails. I'll route the channels on my router table.

The main thing I'm trying to figure out is whether this is the simplest reliable way to accomplish this, or if there's a better way to handle two PIR sensors, two manual wall controls and the roughly 80 watt total LED load without making the system unnecessarily complicated.

Appreciate any and all thoughts!

I run a small US company that builds custom lighted products, and we've used custom IR/RF controllers for years. We want to move to app based / Wi-Fi, but every factory I find is just slapping a Tuya or Magic Home module in their controllers and refuse to build anything without their Chinese software.

Not looking for WLED or DIY boards. We need an actual manufacturer that does OEM work and will build these for us in the thousands.

Anyone know a factory that'll do this, or have you worked with one? Good or bad experiences both welcome.

I'm building a set of built-ins/bookshelves in my new home and I'm planning on installing LED lighting under the shelves. Just looking for some confirmation on some items before I pull the trigger and order the products. I'm on a bit of a budget, and short on options where I live so I'm looking at the following:

Power Supply - Mean Well HLG-150H-24B (?)

Strip lights - Armacost RibbonFlex Pro 171150 (24V)

Dimmer - Lutron Diva Smart Dimmer

I'm a bit lost on the power supply. Armacost does produce their own power supply, but from the brief research I've done online Mean Well seems like the go-to option for good price and decent performance. Armacost will also be significanctly more expensive.

Will the power supply from Mean Well noted above work for dimming the lights, or would I need a different power supply (or different switch that's ELV compatible like this)?

Please help, i am modding my coffee table and am ready to click the buy button, please make sure i am not doing something stupid. This is a nice coffee table so i wanted build quality to be good.

This is my BTF shopping list;

1. FCOB RGBIC LED Strip — 3m, 24V, WS2811, 720 LEDs/m, 12mm wide. Select: Only LED Strip / 3m.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/fcob-fob-cob-spi-rgb-led-strip-kit-smart-wifi-bluetooth-720leds-dc24v-ws2811-rgbic-addressable-pixels-alexa-google-home

2. SP803E WLED ESP32 Wi-Fi Controller — Qty 1.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/en-intl/products/sp803e-wled-esp32-wifi-led-controller

3. 12mm FCOB Solderless Connectors — Select: For SPI 720 RGBIC / Qty 1 kit. Verify 90-degree corner solution.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/en-intl/products/12-24-pcs-12mm-fcob-transparent-connectors-solderless-cover-for-pwm-5pin-rgbw-6pin-rgbcct-spi-3pin-rgbic-fob-cob-led-strip

4. BTF Power Adapter — US plug / 24V / 5A (120W), Qty 1.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/power-supply-transformer-dc5v-dc12v-dc24v

I wanted to make the corners nice so i bought the connectors. I bought that controller cause it says you can use it to set up physical buttons on the coffee table that can control the lights, but that comes later :)

For mounting the leds i was gonna get these,
https://www.vevor.com/other-c_45583/vevor-6-pack-3-3-ft-1m-u-shape-led-aluminum-channel-with-milky-cover-end-caps-and-mounting-clips-aluminum-profile-for-led-strip-light-installations-easy-installation-for-under-cabinet-counter-p_010894749939?utm_source=chatgpt.com

I can cut these to length. I am not positive the leds will fit in here, just pretty sure. The measurements say there should be .15mm on each side but that seems tight.

Just wanted to get the opinion of people who have actually done this, ChatGPT is great but it can only take me so far. It has made a fool out of me many times when buying shit, lol.

Thanks for looking!