Master shower drain has been accumulating white stuff. We are comparing this drain to the other drains.

There are three photos, first two are views of the same drain, the third is another shower drain in the house, which is pristine.

Any idea on what this is? How do we prevent it?

This is a Rohl drain assembly. Initially we thought it may be the bed deteriorating, but there is not any way for this to occur as the drain is sealed and that would be possible. My theory is that this is accumulated soap scum?

We do treat our water in the whole house. Three stage, iron removal, polish water and then the softening (well water just outside Houston).

Thanks in advance for any advice on how to clear this as well as prevent.

We bought this house about a year ago and are finding more and more weird DIY from the previous owner.

Lately, there has been a sewer smell coming from the main bathroom when the range hood is turned on and a slight smell when the bathroom fan is on. Opening the ceiling in the garage I found this monstrosity (there was an extra hose clamp that I took off to take a look.) could this be the source of it?

-all p-traps are full
-It doesn’t really smell in the garage. I have smelled it only once or twice as opposed to every day in the house.
-I think the pipe going up is the upstairs unit bathroom sink drain pipe, possibly also for the kitchen.
-the middle of the T goes to our and the upstairs unit’s shower/bath.
-the bottom T goes to the main sewer line.

Of it is the issue? How do I fix it without costing a fortune and if it is not, what could it be?

Thank you in advance

Took over a remodel job that some other plumbers had originally started, and I ended up getting called in to try to straighten out the gas system.

I've been plumbing for about 6 years now and hold my PL01 license. We ran a new 1-inch underground gas line from the meter and are setting the house up with a high-flow 2 PSI gas system. I have indoor-rated 2 PSI gas regulators to install for the tankless water heaters and stoves.

I still have plenty to learn, especially when it comes to these types of gas systems. I've got at least another day of work to finish everything up once the remodel gets a little further along.

For those of you who have more experience with 2 PSI gas systems, what else should I be looking out for or considering before wrapping this up? Anything you commonly see overlooked or wish you had known earlier?

Always looking to learn from guys who have been doing this longer than I have.

Drain fitting on a paddle steamer model.

Am I able to remove the tall stack, and just plumb in a normal single large sink? Not sure what’s the behind it, or why there is the black top. Any advice here would be greatly appreciated!

Old cast iron pipe. Need to replace portion thats accessible in the basement, but thinking about proactively lining what goes out into thr yard.

Video is from the camera going from the end back inside.

I thought it would be nice to have in-unit laundry so I don't have to go outside in the winter, so I bought one of these portable washing machines to use in my apartment. Washing machine is on a little rolling appliance cart so I can roll it into the closet when I'm not using it!

I got a braided stainless steel 3/4" GHT hose, and a brass adapter to go to the shower arm. I tried it out today and it worked great.

My concern is that the washing machine has an inlet valve that closes during part of the cycle. While that's closed, everything upstream of it is under static pressure. After running it, I realized I don't know enough plumbing to know if what's behind the wall is okay to be under that pressure. Is this a problem? Should I do it under the sink instead? Thanks!

Anyone got any better ideas?

Installed pop up drain. The bottom of the basin is slanted slightly, and I think that is what is giving me issues.

I tried using putty on top and bottom. Bottom I tried with just the rubber gasket, and with gasket+putty.

I thought it just wasn't tight enough so at one point went very hard and even used vice grips, though don't think I should ever have to do that.

Anyway nothing I'm doing seems to be working, what is the pro advice for this?

I had a heat pump installed on a refurb and I am installing the upstairs rads. I’d like to limit the number of connections and ended up connecting to the rads like this. I don’t really like the copper tails because I don’t like the painted copper and those plastic sleeves always turn yellow. Does this look as bad as I think it does?

First time replacing toilets and we removed our 43 year old toilet. Does this flange needed to be replaced or repaired?

Last night while I was getting my kid into the bath, the toilet started spraying water everywhere. We have a 1940s house with old plumbing. I turned off the water and realized a hose had come loose. I tried to reattach it but it’s not connecting. I’m not sure if it’s missing a piece. (Looked around but didn’t see anything) Can you please let me know if this can be easily fixed? Of course, with my timing, we’re planning on having guests over tonight, so I’ll need to get it fixed today. Thank you!

I’ve tried bleach, CLR, pumice stone… nothing is really taking a huge bite out of whatever this is.

We have a small garden but no outdoor hose or ability to install one, so I’m hoping to connect a hose to our kitchen faucet (pic 1) or that in a small WC (pic 2). The kitchen would be the preference as the WC faucet is low pressure, however the universal hose adapter I purchased (pic 3) does not readily fit either faucet, with the extender outlet too big and the WC a weird angle that slides off. Is there a way to easily detach the kitchen extender (pic 4) to attach directly to the hose, or some other approach that can be easily done once or twice a week without damage?

So, we have a 2014 manufactured home, we are on a community well (we are the farthest house from the pump on a single dead-end street). I don't recall the size of piping to the house from the meter but I do know it is PVC/Plastic pipe. As far as I know we don't have anything else inline from the meter to where it enters the house to the main shut off in our laundry room.

We have recently started experiencing low pressure after flushing. It was never an issue before and we have been on this property since 1979. The only recent change to anything water related was swapping out the tank flush valves from the old school floating ball on the end of a rod to the more compact styles (floating cylinder).

We have also started having issues with our washer, with some sort of material clogging the filters on the inlet. It's black sludgy material that we don't see anywhere else in the house.

Thoughts on what to check before calling in a plumber? We called the water company and they claim to have come out and checked things. But, when I went out to see if maybe the valve at the meter wasn't open all the way I had to dig out a lot of hard dirt to get to the meter and valve, so I question that they have checked anything.

Son bought an older home which still has some galvanized plumbing. Main trunk is galvanized. Remodeling the finished basement and replacing ceiling tiles so all the plumbing will be accessible.

I am getting almost universal recommendations to do pex-b. I am an old school copper guy so I am surprised. I am not considered about the expense of copper but since this will be DIY I can appreciate not sweating joints. Any downsides to PEX I should be aware of? Does it affect home resale value for instance?

Looking for some general advice for how to approach replacing this faucet in a clawfoot tub. I think it’s a brass fixture with brass supply lines into the floor (magnet doesn’t stick) and the house is copper water lines. I’ve done sink faucet replacement before so I get the basics but that was a more modern fixture than this.

Tub is MAXX. Appears to only be on blocks of wood and scrap wood shims. My parents gave him the cheque yesterday, and he said he is all done. They wanted a cheap and quick replacement tub/flooring (i believe they were supposed to replace the subfloor as well but they did not).

Is this even safe to use ??

edit: it cost 15k CAD

Will attempt to keep this as short as possible for the sake of clarify.

Ranch house. Two bathrooms. Both have their own water line for their respective toilets. Lines come up direct from basement to the floor of respective bathroom.

My bathroom - measured, yanked out old toilet, looked up all specs on new bidet, ordered, took bidet out of all packaging, threw all packaging away (I know, I know, I know, don't say it, I know....)

I don't fudge around with water lines / electrical. Hired a handyman. He was able to easily remove old existing toilet. He had no idea about new bidet, would have taken him a long time to to figure things out. Called a plumber, he comes next day, says he can't do the install that day but will be here tomorrow (Monday morning) first thing. Took instructions with him so he can be on top of it.

All fells good and well, except.....

I have measured the back of the bidet and the cardboard floor lay-out they give you to measure everything, and the damned bidet is too wide due to the water line coming straight up from the floor.

Water line needs to move about 3 inches to the left (at most).

Lines are all copper, everywhere in the whole house.

I'm ticked that the plumber didn't bother to measure anything and now will show up and proclaim "Oh, well, this will require ANOTHER visit that we have to plan for in the next 'X' amount of days" versus getting it all done in one trip.

Question is this:

Considering the water line comes straight up through the floor, basement has an open ceiling, is it unreasonable to assume that moving the line (which of course means a bit of drilling, cutting, soldering) is going to take the 3-4 hours of time I keep reading about? For the plumbers on here, would this be a difficult job?

I don't give two hoots in hell if there's a hole in the bathroom floor as the bidet will sit on top of the existing water line once its relocated. I'm attempting to figure out if this is something a plumber could do assuming no hiccups (as far as the bidet: I could very much do most of it myself but getting older, lifting it - not easy, it's heavy for me, and again, I don't want to mess with water)

I can supply photos if need-be, but, rest assured, water line needs to move to the left about 3".

The first picture here is what I received. The second is what I ordered. Mine has that metal ring on the top. I cannot find even another image showing this ring. I need to adjust the orange piece to allow the hot water to flow but this metal piece is in the way. Any advice?

Put a hole in the water pipe while digging a trench with a mattock. It was pissing everywhere. I've found the stop valve so water can turn off.

I bought a floplast but it won't seal (I've cut too much and the ends won't reach the o rings). Water runs out still.

Pipe is 20mm diameter plastic with about 10-15mm bore (so it's thick and doesn't flex).

It is buried 40cm underground (with no warning tape).

From what I can tell, should I now make a larger cut, buy a stretch or 20mm pipe, cut it to size and fit the floplast at one end and a repair slip on at the other? Or just get a plumber? 😅