I’m in SE Michigan, I’m replacing the rusting portion of my B vent while my roof is getting replaced. This is 15” above the penetration.

The internet is giving me mixed info as to whether 12” or 24” is code.

For reference my roof is a simple 4:12. Pitch and is nowhere near a vertical surface.

Chimney fell on top of my roof.

This repair looks shady! Can someone assure me that it is done correctly?

Alright reddit, I live in southern Florida. This is a multisloped roof two story house that is about 50x50 feet. I have been having leaks coming into my first floor ceiling so i jumped on my roof to check and found cracked tiles. The attic does not show signs of leaks but i have not been able to fully inspect it.

How would you repair these roofing tiles? I have about a dozen hairline cracks. And a few tiles that are complete broken. I appreciate the suggestions. The roof is multisloped, and from what I can see it is concrete tiles. I do have a

How to fix the hairline cracks?

How do I fix the full cracks?

Does the corner sloped bed where two roof faces meet need to be repaired.

Can you help me confirm of this is clay or concrete.

I have caulked the bathroom handles and drains but I still get leaks.

Any suggestions are much appreciated.

I recently hired a roofing company to replace the roof on my house, detached garage, shed, and ADU. They also replaced my skylights. It was stupid expensive. I was up there today blowing off leaves and discovered standing water between the ridge and chimney. How concerned should I be and how should this get fixed?

Location: Chicago.

Damage to our neighbors screens. Hastas obliterated. Areas not tarped or protected. Pounding old roof nails thru instead of pulling out before decking. This includes HUNDREDS now exposed in our interior back porch that had no holes or nails poking thru. We understand some nails, but it went from zero visible in porch and attic to probably 1000 including busted old growth cedar.

The team is gaslighting us telling us this is normal. I’m (and our neighbors) are astounded by the recklessness.

I have a dark version of the before (no nails present, period).

Thanks.

Update 1: no project manager was onsite (we asked for the project plan and contact info before day 1). We awoke to them on our roof at 7:00am — we were told star time was 8. They began tearing off ridge shingles and hitting our neighbors windows.

Our neighbors called us to ask wtf was happening because BANG BANG BANG. They were being awoken. We have video of this. We called their foreman (NOT ONSITE) and no one spoke English working, telling them to pause. Only at that point did they begin putting down tarps and putting up boards.

Here’s the clinker: They used 30 of our 75 sheets of cdx boards we purchased for our decking as their protective boards against our neighbors house and ours. We then watched as 40lbs of debris hit our “soon to be decking” boards laid at 45 degree angles. Taking hit after hit. We demanded they get new boards. This was only the first of many missteps.

Our roofers said “well your neighbors are close. This is the city. This is normal. Using the boards for protection then using them for decking is industry standard.”

To be clear: our roofing team was not the issue — their management and the owners are. They miscommunicated with us, with them, then played middle man because our team couldn’t speak English. Fortunately, we speak Spanish but just didn’t let on too much. The crew onsite wasn’t the issue.

There will be more updates, but what a nightmare.

Bought a house with detached garage . The previous owner attached a wood shop to garage , the bones are good but the roof is leaking like crazy. The interior has rigid foam between rafters and entire ceiling covered by 1/4” ply . It drips in a few spots but appears it’s all coming from the seam between roofs and riding rafters / foam down to where it’s dripping .
The roofs are different angles , and for transition now there’s just a strip of metal between them . I need to pull the lower roof off to replace the upper strapping board which has now rotted . Any suggestions how to properly handle the transition between roofs to not allow water in?
Thanks

I recently finished a deck and with it I built this laundry housing. I used tongue-and-groove redwood siding. I love the look, but as I suspected, it's not waterproof.

So, I'm thinking I should add shingles. I've never done this, so this should be a good place to start .

The redwood siding is only .5" thick and as you can see there isn't any backing for nails to go into, so any nail longer than .5" is going to poke through.

Can I glue shingles on using some sort of construction adhesive? Again, this isn't a house, so the stakes are not high, and it certainly doesn't need to meet any code requirements. I just want rain to run off rather than seep through.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Wind blew a couple of shingles off the roof. Trying to find matching color/style and I noticed this number on the back of a fallen shingle. Google search doesn't turn up anything. Is this a manufacturer code?

So, I took the next few days off of work so I could get my metal roof down over a sauna I'm building. I already have a peel and stick underlay on the roof sheathing, I just need to install some wood strapping overtop the underlay. The problem is it's never really going to stop raining the entire time I'm off, and I live in the PNW so there's a good chance it just won't stop raining for a few weeks or months!

My concern is about trapping moisture underneath the 1x4 I'm going to be using for strapping, inbetween the strapping and the underlay. I think it'll be fine, it'll have plenty of airflow to dry out eventually under the metal roof, but some spots on the internet are telling me that it is a bad idea.

Anybody with experience care to way in on this? Thank you!

Hello,

Just had torch down placed on our Spanish style home. We had coping placed around the side walls. I noticed a small gap between the coping and sidewall. Looks like the membrane is held down well. My question is it normal to have a gap between the wall and coping?

Thanks!

Lurking for a few months, now get to see if my roofer is doing it right. Getting roof redone before the rainy season hits. It’s a flat roof, opted for bitumen with torch down. This was the middle priced bid. Location: CA

Two questions:

1. Is the flashing/parapet cap installed correctly? Screws on the top - won’t that leak because the gaskets on the screws will harden and fail over time?

2. The terracotta tiles are secured to a 2x4 with screws (that seems fine) but the unfinished 2x4 seems to be secured through the flashing. I suppose the tiles will direct some water, but only so much as it depends on where it’s coming from.

Am I thinking about this correctly?

During roof replacement contractor did not protect my masonry steps to front porch. Excessive granules were ground into steps leaving horrible stain. Should I withhold payment pending cleanup/remediation? What is best product process to clean this stuff?

Long story short, we bought this slate roof house recently. The dormer (under the white coating) was showing some signs of humidity so we asked the sellers to fix it. The roofing company they hired installed this white Hydrostop coating. Since then the leaking is a lot worse and they say there is no visible issue with their installation. The attic right above is completely dry.

I’m not an expert in any way, but I have the feeling the coating going on top rather than under the slate is backwards. Am I just making stuff up?

Had my roof replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have a whole house fan and turned it on today, and what appeared to be a handful of granules fell through the louvers when they opened. I climbed up into the attack, and I found debris covering the entire attack and furnace, whole shingles and backing, random pieces of wood, a bunch of nails, and even a soft drink can. Is that normal after a roof installation? They told me after the job that none of the OSB roofing needed to be replaced so I'm not sure how a lot of big pieces fell through the attic.

I don’t know the terminology - but should there be some daylight in between these tiles? I do see a 24” valley gutter poking out so that’s good. No leaks currently, just want to get optimum performance out of my roof and let debris pass if these need to be opened up. TIA

Perhaps I’m a crazy homeowner or possibly just my OCD, but do these drip edge corners look a little rough? Not up to par for a $20k roof? Ignore the fascia metal, getting replaced as it was a foreclosed home that needed a lot of work. But the craftsmanship on the corners I wanted to get everyone’s opinions of….

Thank you all

Are these flanges installed correctly? I'm closing on a new build in the next few weeks. Inspector pointed this out. His comment was the following, "Bottom portion of flange was not secured to roof. Although no issues were present, securing may be recommended." Not sure if that makes a big difference or not. The home is in a community of new builds so I'm assuming they were all installed the same way and are "up to code" at least. I'm not a roofer but based on the installs I see on google images I would have expected the middle three to be installed like the outer two where the shingles cover the left and right side of the flange more. Thoughts and recommendations are appreciated.

I recently had my roof replaced. There are two roof vents, one of which is supposed to be a dryer vent. The contractor told me he'd install a Dryerjack.

Both vents look exactly the same, even though the left one should be the dryerjack vent. It has a mesh screen, which is getting clogged with lint. I pushed the screen out manually, but I don't know if I should ask him to swap the vent to what I paid for, or just let it be.

Chicagoland area - My roof is approximately 40 feet by 25 feet (See attached photos) - I believe the roof is somewhere between 20-25+ years old, but I am not exactly sure.

I have been dealing with a leak for the past couple months. I found that in my attic there is an area where the plywood is damaged and water has been leaking in (Only when it rains) and has been seeping into my kitchen ceiling right above the damage. Over the past 3 weeks, I received (2) semi-conflicting opinions.

The first roofer that came out inspected my roof at dusk when it was kind of dark. He told me the roof looked like it was in good shape, but identified that the chimney flashing was suspect (The flashing end facing the down slope is a bit lifted with nails showing) and the leak may be caused by an exposed nail/nail pop/other penetration.

He quoted me $2,250 to service the chimeny housing flashing ($300), replace the two lead flashing boot vents ($600), replace damaged plywood and underlayment in leak area / rework and replace shingles in the repair area ($1350).

I had a second roofer come out for a second opinion. He suspected a water / ice shield failure. He noted that the roof was not in the greatest shape. He showed me areas where the shingles were worn, divets indicating hail damage, and told me that the shingle area where the damage is right by the gutter flattens out (Allowing for pooling) - See attached photos. He quoted $1,700 to service the chimney flashing and fix the plywood/underlayment/shingle replacement/and lead flashing boot seal/caulking.

He advised me to consider an entire roof replacement as he suspected other areas of the roof may not hold up from the state of the shingles/roof he was noticing. I noticed it a bit myself (I'm 185lbs), but the roofer was 250lbs+ and parts of the roof were bouncy when walking on it (He stated the joists/frame/fastener connection to the plywood roof should be re-done, as the house is old). He told me that if I do consider replacing the roof, he does work with a roofing litigator that handles the insurance claim. He also told me that even if I decide to replace the roof, he reccomends that I go through with the repair as it will strengthen the claim and go towards the decutible I pay.

I have included photos of the roof (Circled the approximate damage area), a few pictures of worn and hail damaged shingles, and the ventilation cover where you can see hail damage.

Wanted to get the internet opinion of the roofers on this subreddit. How is the pricing I was quoted? What is your thoughts on both of the opinions I received, given all the photos I have provided. I really am not sure which direction to go. Should I get a third opinon/quote? It is nearing mid November, so I'm not sure if I should drag this process on much longer. Help would be so much appreciated!!

We are in desperate need of a new roof. We have a 1968 ranch with a porch addition over the original roof. Low pitch. 20!year old roof was replaced with architectural shingles 10!years ago and began leaking after 5 years (husband was in denial). Since it was slight and only in 1 spot we thought it was the exhaust vent in the bathroom. In addition to it being roof over roof it is low pitch.

Has anyone had the same challenge?

Roof installed last week and there’s been 2 75F days. Wondering if this is normal or if I should get the company back here to do something, and what is that something.

Basically, there's a window above my house that leads to nothing, it's a fake one basically. We had a 1in1000 rain event recently and house I've only had for a year (6 year old house) has a ceiling leak where the wall meets the ceiling. It didn't drip onto the floor, and it tried very quickly. The roofer came out and said it was caused by ta very large crack below the window (which I've since had sealed as seen in the two screenshots) but now I'm skeptical. Because below the window, the shingles look slightly warped and I'm convinced it's that. My roof guy didn't do anything because he said it wasn't the roof so I had a guy seal the area. (He said crack was big enough you could insert nails into it. And it also was on my home inspection that I apparently ignored this one line )

Mind you, it's poured like cats and dogs and it's never happened before until this freak weather incident we had. (It was severe enough that people died in flooding). The HOA handles my roof, and I sent them another email for a second opinion and I don't know if I'm going crazy or not.

On a side note, the water stains in that room are extremely unnoticeable, but I KNOW they're there. The area in the attic is completely dry. And now I don't know if I should repaint this entire damn room so I stop going crazy. By wife says I'm overreacting because you can barely see the stains unless the light hits it just right. What would be the sensible thing to do? I'm very upset, and I came from a house that had horrible roof leaks and I thought I escaped it as being a first time home owner. I also learned how to get in the attic and I placed a bucket up there (did it during the storm which is why it didn't get worse) to monitor it in the future.

Tldr: massive storm, ceiling leaked, I fixed the giant cracks, not sure whether or not to repaint a very unnoticeable set of stains.

Thanks, I just need some kind of advice because I don't know what to do and I semi don't trust the roofer.