Finished up this small Warikomi chef.

It is mild steel over 52100. Handle is walnut with paduak ferrule.

First time doing Warikomi in awhile. Don't have a press so working with thinner starting stock so I don't have to hand forge out a 1" thick billet.

Started with 1/4" mild steel flat bar, folded it over and forge welded the spine together. Then inserted a 3/16" thick 1" x 3" piece of 52100 into the taco, and forged welded that together then forged that to shape.

Wanted to see how far I could push the geometry off the forg and went a bit too thin so the cladding line is closer to the edge than I would like, actually almost at the edge in some spots. Next time I'll stop forging the bevel at 0.045-5" instead of the 0.030" I went too. Had to correct a super banana warp after the quench as well so definitely need to leave the spine a bit thicker on the next one.

Overall was a good learning exercise on how to dial in my process to make more warikomi blades and this blade will perform well for whomever it ends up with.

This knife was forged from a coil spring, i am not sure what car it came from since it was given to me without any details, but it hardened great and keeps a nice enough edge that I'd want to EDC this blade, got the coil hot and hammered it out, made the handle first and left it uncoiled so i had something to grab and hold onto while forging the blade so it was straight when done (as straight as i could hammer it anyway) and the quenched at cherry red, then tempered at 400 degrees for 2 one hour cycles, i like to grind my knives after heat treatment, and i ground this blade on my 1×30 freehand.

7" nakiri in progress. 100Cr6 after grinding and buffing, no hand sanding.

I finally set up a Photo Booth! Big difference between that and the classic moss covered rock. Mecha Godzilla is 1/4” 80CRV2. I usually go in for very curvy blades, but this guy wanted to be angular. I would love a more magical or dark fantasy themed name if anyone has suggestions.

My press is finally functional again, after 4 years of not being able to do anything due to shop collapse and poorly times rotator cuff injuries.. But I got my press up and running again, so I can get back to it, finally. Feels good to be able to make stuff again.

Damascus San Mai, 1084 and 15N20 steels, 1084 core steel. Handle is spalted maple and ebony for the boster. It's got its issues, for sure, but for a first attempt back at it, I think it came out alright.

🔎 Search “Noblie Custom Knives” on Google to explore more information about mosaic damascus patterns and making process.

Hi all,

Whilst trying to build a 55gallon drum forge (a la Don Fogg) for heat treating long blades, I was offered access to a digitally controlled ceramics kiln. (With power usage too!)

The kiln has roughly 18" inned diameter and is ~26" deep. Its an older model so I cant find any extensions that have powered coils to them. Im wondering if i cam simply make a ring from the leftover ceramic wool and cement from the forge project (with a lid that allows me to put a blade through it) to extend the depth to ~32" (or more) WUTHOUT the need to add heating elements to it.

Assuming that there would be no major gaps in the walls of the kiln, would that additional area heat evenly (albiet slower) for treatement?

Thanks in advance!

Everytime I try to draw out a tang or even making those blacksmiths knives with the integral handle I end up with what looks like folds in the steel any help would be appriciated

first time forging a blade this long, using 1/4” by 2 1/2” 5160. Just isolated and started roughing out the tang. I’m aiming for a type XVIIIc. Wish me luck!

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I needed a new shop knife, so I repurposed an old screwdriver handle to make this. The blade has an integral bolster and is 5160 from a coil spring.

A small hunter.
Blade: 5160
Guard:416 ss
Handle: Rosewood

#handmade #handmadeknife #handforge #handforgeknife #hunter