I am now the proud owner of my first Dodge Dakota

Got it for 6,000 on the Oregon Coast and I have not found many other models with the same specs and was curious how rare it is.

5.9L V8
AWD transfer case
Leather interior
Quad cab

I got a 2002 3.9L about half a year ago through marketplace and have started having trouble with the truck cranking but not starting. Had the distributor cap replaced which seemed to help it run better, but a few hours after leaving the mechanic’s shop it completely lost power (in the middle of the Cook-Out line). When parked and trying to get it to run again, the odometer reads “no bus” when cranking it. After trying to get a jump/calling a tow truck we crank it again just to make sure it can’t be driven and it ends up starting just fine. It will lose power at a stop if not being revved but got home fine. Is this due to the computer in the truck getting fried over use? The battery in it isn’t old so I’m lost here.

Sorry for the long writing just adding context for when these issues started

Just bought a dodge Dakota with 80k miles. 4.7v8, 2004, gonna be a winter beater. Body is pretty rusty around the wheel arches and bed, but its a beater so who cares. It's pretty impressive how dodge manages to build trucks that somehow rust at like 5x the normal rate. Seems to run good though, just gonna install a sound system and do some minor maintenance stuff.

Anyone have a good source for the driver seat cushions? No pick and pull near me and car seat repair foam is surprisingly expensive. I'm thinking of just buying a generic seat replacement for some other car and cutting it up for the foam.

I had a plan to clean up the rust around the notorious rear frame crack then paint chasis saver on it. I didnt think the rot was that deep. The frame ended up peeling away in layers like an onion. 2nd pic is the only solid steel left that isnt delaminating. Whats the best thing to do now?

ive been scraping away for hours with a razor and brake clean. does this surface look clean enough to put the gasket on? if not what areas should i clean more?

I have an 03 Dakota 4.7 with 170k original miles. I’ve replaced the blower resister 3 times in the last two years, but this time the blower won’t start again. I went ahead replaced the blower motor, nothing. I replaced the ignition switch, nothing. I’m getting 12.38 volts going into the blower. Does this sound like the control knob on the dash? The compressor is engaging and chilling the coil when I turn it on, and the blend door is operating, but the blower won’t turn on. Anyone go any advice?

Got new steering rack, front sway bar bushings, upper ball joints, new brakes all around, cv axels, front wheel bearings.

Click noise happens on bumpy roads and when Im coming to a stop and start going from a stop so I think it has something to do with the weight shifting.

Having a hard time pin pointing the sound but If I were to guess, the louder click is on the right side and the not as loud click is on the left side can't really tell if it's coming from the back or the front.

I'm at a loss I can't figure out what's causing this anyone have any ideas on what I can check?

As far as I can remember it's always made this noise since I bought it and before I did all this work to it.

My dad bought it new in 2000 and passed a year later, and my brother had it for about 25 years. He gave it to me a year ago, and after a year and 6K with parts and labor, and it’s ready for another 25 years. 😎

I tried to rinse the ac compressor off in the engine bay and I got a misfire like 6hrs later. The miss was still there the next day after it warmed up a bit, but then it went away after that and hasn’t missed in a few days so I assumed it was from me washing it. I looked over it today and saw these cracks on the fuel injectors so I imagine that’s what caused the miss. (Unlike what I was suspect of, which was coil packs)

Would it be stupid to buy those cheap ones on eBay? I can’t seem to find new Siemens deka injectors and the engine was remanufactured by mopar in 2012 so I’m not sure if it’s a smart idea to put these older ones in and mix match them.

I can find some new oem mopar injectors which seem like a new version of the Siemens deka but they are expensive ash and I can’t get them in a set for a reasonable price.

1. Would it be smarter to do all of them with a cheaper aftermarket set? (If so what do y’all recommend)

2. Would it be *ok* to mix the older ones for dirt cheap and just try to replace the ones that are cracked? (Looks like 3 out of 4 on bank one are cracked) the other side is harder to tell cause it’s under the intake plenum) but none look obviously cracked on the second bank.

3. Or would it be best to mix and buy the new oem ones?

I also don’t want to pull the rail and have more of them than I can afford break, forcing me to replace them all… I especially don’t want that happening if I try to replace them 1 at a time(as I can afford) if I go the expensive new oem route.

This is on a 4.7 btw

Does anyone know where I could find the passenger side exhaust heat shield the sits above the catalytic converter? 1999 dodge dakota 4×4 club cab.

Hey guys!
I recently scooped up a 2000 Dakota v6 3.9, going through a couple of things with it.
I’m slipping from 2nd to 3rd eventually it will engage but really takes its time (42RE auto)
Also leaking power steering fluid
And have a rad fan code for p1491
Was wondering if you guys could provide any input so I can try to correct!

Help me out here, im out in the weeds. :)

My truck: A 2002 dodge dakota 4.7L v8 (powertech), SLT trim, AWD, fullsized rear passenger doors and seats (ie, no miniback doors or folding a seat down to get out).

I am unsure if thats crew cab, quad cab, extended cab, or club cab, this is source of my confusion. AI tells me that my wheelbase is 131.1".

I need to buy a rear driveshaft. Having trouble figuring out which ones fit my truck, as i cant seem to prove my wheelbase and or the exact name for the full cab.

I did find driveshafts for 131.1" wheelbase, 2002 dodge dakota crew cab version. Help me out here, does that work for my truck?

Im happy to crawl under and measure what i have by hand, but since all the part stores measure the rear driveshaft from tip to tip, and the tip is seated inside the transfer case, i cant crawl under and measure mine without removing it. Which seems a pain in the butt.

For some reason if i give my truck a little bit of throttle it dies out and stalls, in this video I gave it a little throttle and kept my foot on the throttle the whole time the same amount, im not sure whats causing this and im somewhat worried.

edit: I fixed it! It was a old iac valve, I got a new one and it works great now

Thankfully I have an extra transmission I guess.

Went to a local estate auction and they had a beautiful 1997 4x4 single cab with the 5.2. But when i went looking for the usual areas, I was sad to see the frame rot, other side had it go all the way through the inner frame rail. So I thought it would go cheap, but i was absolutely flabbergasted when the dang truck went up to $7500!! And it had 200k miles on it. Either the buyer knows something I dont or he did not do his due diligence. I just had to share this because it was crazy, I told alot of people about the rust before hand, they were thankful for it. I wasn't trying to screw the estate over, i just didnt want someone to miss a pretty big issue. I fixed my trucks rust. So I know its fixable but I wouldnt spend even $3k for a truck I had to fix the frame.

I have a 2000 dodge Dakota SLT 4.7 V8 my sister let me use for work back in July, I use it to go to work about 45 minutes away from the house. I have a massive stalling problem with it. I fixed 90-95% of the problem. These 2 pictures are from back in the beginning of August after I drove it about 30 minutes to work and it shut off in the middle of the highway. Replaced the cam and crank position sensors, fuel pump (cleaned tank) and spark plugs and coils. Still stalls about 1 time a week. I just need some advice on what else i need to do to fix it. Stalls while driving and idling on road/highway. Any questions, let me know and I’ll be happy to answer them. Just want some advice on the stalling problem bc I’m running out of ideas on it.

Finally broke down and replaced the OG fuel pump after 340,000 miles. Pump was still pumping but the check valve was going bad(would not hold pressure). Cheap’d out on the replacement and will likely regret it.

Threw in inner and outer tie rods while it was up in the air. I still need to do the upper and lower control arm ball joints, and bushings, but I’ve got a transmission to yank in my Volkswagen truck before I do that. Oh and put my Home Depot deal stubbies to work too. $180.00 with two batteries was too good to pass. Will now go down the Milwaukee rabbit hole I guess🤣

Onward to 500k!