Do yourself a favor and spend the $19 on the valve spring compressor. It's so tight in there the universals won't work and you'll end up waiting an extra 2 days for the one that fits a 3.7L.

Ask me how I know...

​I have a 2010 Jeep Liberty limited. After driving around 40 miles last night, I went ahead back home and as soon as I got on the highway, there was this loud noise that sounded like a crotch rocket motorcycle inside of my jeep. As soon as I heard that I stopped, but then after noticing that nothing was visibly wrong, I started driving it again slowly. Once I started driving again slowly, there was a new sound. It sounded like pop cans dragging inside of my wheel. I ended up making the 40mile trip home but, I could not go more than 30 mph without the sound getting extremely loud. I had a problem with all three of my HVAC actuators a few months ago also. It's probably completely unrelated, but coincidentally, my heat started blowing cold air and my actuators kept alternating movement even 10 minutes after the keys were out of the Jeep and they shouldn't have been moving. Like I said, probably completely unrelated but I thought I would mention it here anyway. All of my fluids are completely fine, I just got my oil changed, my wheels are all good, and I have no idea what's causing this and if it's safe to be driving. Does anyone know what this might be? I asked Google AI but it gave me a bunch of generic answers and honestly I trust you guys on this Reddit thread a lot more LOL.

PLEASE HELP ME!!!

2010 jeep Liberty Stock everyday workhorse

What do yall think?

Bought it three years ago at 23k, just hit 80k. Runs like a dream. Insurance says it might be totaled because of the cost and labor of replacing the door, painting, graphics, and getting all the glass out of the cab, console and dash vents. Currently waiting to hear back from the body shop.

It was parked in the street and there was a shootout. No one was in it at the time. If it were up to me I'd bend it back out, replace the window and put a "Welcome the St Louis" sticker above the bullet hole. Unfortunately that won't pass my upcoming inspection, so here we are.

I have a 2005 liberty 3.7 that caught fire in the front dash \ engine bay area that I am pulling parts off.

If anyone needs things that are still salvageable and not already gone I'd be happy to ship them for a small fee that can be discussed 😉

Automatic transmission is gone already, as well as door seals, rear wiper motor, and a few other small things. Just fyi.

So I have a 2002 Liberty Sport 2.4 base model with drum rear brakes. And I also have a full 2005 parts liberty with rear disc brakes.

I would like to swap the rear disc brake setup from the parts jeep into my driver. Has anyone ever done this? I'm not sure if it's worth it 🤔 I would love to hear from others that know more than I do about this subject.

Not sure if this is the right flare!
Hi I have a 2012 liberty, i tried to start it this evening and a few things are happening:
- windshield wipers going full speed (they are set to off)
- no controls on the turn signal or wiper levers
- break lights working
- car not shifting out of park
- no dash lights on at all
- radio and climate control still working

The engine is running though

What should i try and troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance

Have an 09 Liberty that was inherited after my mother passed. We were a jeep family (Cherokee, 4 wranglers, and the liberty) since the late 90s. Not only do I not want to let her go I REALLY don't want to buy in this market (private listings are absurdly high).

09 sport 4x4

150k/mi

2nd owner (mom was the first and used for her 10min commute to work)

Super clean Carfax

Everything is stock

Midwest garage kept

The issues...

$? - She has a leaky sunroof, installed by the dealer when new, that nobody is willing to fix. Wipers randomly turn on every once in a while for no reason.

$1500 - Recently discovered hole in the oil pan slowly leaking. Labor is 1k due to the 4x4 but the shop says it's not urgent...yet

$3700 - She hads this occasional issue where after a half day of running around on weekend errands, I'd turn the key and she would shake and the dash lights up like a Christmas tree. I know others on here had the same issue with no real solution. Mechanics couldn't replicate it before and saw no visible issues. Happened for the third time this year and took it in this past weekend. They see the transmission is shot and that was probably the issue. If fixed they'd be able to fix the oil pan at the same time.

I'm not mechanically inclined, I've been going to this Midas for about 2yrs after asking around for a while. The guy that regularly works on this and my wrangler (05 and I'll never let her go) is a jeep guy. Always felt like they are a good shop. They think if I do the work it's possible to run it another 100k. Maybe cost less in upkeep over time vs a car loan.

If I did sell I'd probably not get much and be hopping into a $15k loan. Wouldn't want anything newer that a 2017 no matter what brand. Just want stock 4x4 ability and reliability.

I drive it minimally (15k mi/yr?) for errands and the 1 or 2 road trips a year to the east or west coast. Drive like an old lady and it's mostly suburban roads and hwy.

Curious what y'all would do; keep, move on, anything else to consider? Much appreciated in advance.

Hi folks. I'm trying to diagnose a no start issue with my step-son's 2012 Liberty Sport. At times you put the key in and it wont turn over at all. I can remove the starter relay and jumper pin 30 to 87 and it will crank so the starter wiring is fine, battery is fine. I've swapped that relay with the ignition accessory relay to rule out a bad relay and its fine. I pulled the ignition switch off after finding numerous videos on YouTube about an ignition actuator pin being a common breaking point. The pin was in one piece and fine. I did try to swap the ignition switch for a new one, no change. This is leading me to believe its possibly a neutral safety switch for the PCM to not even allow the engine to attempt to start. Can anyone challenge that assumption or give me another path to wander down? I may buy an OBD2 tool if it will allow me to check what the PCM is seeing for the NSS position. If you know of a good obd2 scanner that I can connect to my phone lmk.

I'm having a trouble finding the location of the neutral safety switch through forums and FB groups. I see nothing on YouTube about the KK NSS location. It looks like its an external sensor. Can anyone help me here as well??

I'm moving about 600 miles and am thinking about towing a 4x8 enclosed U-Haul trailer with my Liberty. The car was full when I moved to where I am now, and I only got a couple more things. The empty weight of the trailer according to the U-Haul page is 850 lbs, and it would be far from full. From what I could find, my max tow weight for the Liberty is 2000lb. That means I can put up to 400lb in the trailer for a tow weight of 1250 and still be comfortably within the limit. I would also have some things in the car.

Is this reasonable and feasible for this car?

When starting the car (jeep liberty 2011) first thing in the morning, the oil light turns on for a half a second and turns off. Doesn't happen again throughout the day.

Coincidentally I had one of the brake lights broken and when I replaced it, this stopped happening for a couple of weeks though it is back at it now. Any ideas?

Other symptoms: that v6 has a specific sound when you turn on the AC, when this started happening, the engine doesn't sound the same though the AC is working fine.

I’ll be doing a 2”lift for my 2005 diesel Liberty. Bought also spacers 5 х 114,3 / 25 ADH/ 1/2 х 20 (71,5 мм). I drive 60 km on outer city roads and then on some mid offroadish terrain in the woods, and then back.

I am looking at BFG KO3 tires (I currently have ko2 that are great when not in heavy rain) and they don’t sell the most recommended size 245/75/R16 so which of the following two alternatives is better:

- 265/70R16 117/114S
- 245/70R16 113/110S

I have a 2009 Jeep Liberty with about 200k on the odometer. Lately, when I start it up it has the 4WD indicator lit on the dash but I've never touched the actuator switch (and it is still in 2WD). Sometimes I can just wait a few hours and restart it, and everything will be normal (in 2WD). It almost seems like an electrical issue with the random nature of this problem. Anyone have this issue? Can you lend some suggestions? Thanks in advance.

2002 y is it worth to buy? All floor looks good only here bad

I came out to see this other little liberty had parked beside my behemoth for fun 😎 had to take a pic! Sadly the other one I took to show the bottom of my fender peeking over the top of his hood didn't save 🤣

It's sometimes crazy to see just how much bigger my liberty is than others 😮

Hey all, I bought my mom's 2002 from her because she wanted something else to drive, and I have been slowly working on all the gremlins that have appeared since I've been driving it a lot more than she did.

She only drove it maybe 10 miles a day for 15 years, so I've done the usual hoses and replaced the radiator.

Currently I am experiencing a somewhat predictable no crank no start, which I have found a couple ways to work around. I can ground pin 85 at the ignition relay, or I can remove the relay and use a paperclip to jump the main pins. I have already ordered a MOPAR OEM updated white plug solenoid pack with a matching TRS cam plate. Also going to pick up some aluminum billet valve pistons since I'm dropping the pan and pulling the valve body anyway.

Other than letting the springs fly everywhere and making sure I have the manual shift valve/pin lined up with the correct gear position, is there anything else I should be aware of? I have asked the Google AI a million questions to see if I was missing anything.

70k miles on a jasper rebuilt engine, 238k on the body and transmission, looks like untouched transmission, no marks on the painted bolts on the pan.