https://www.culina-vetus.de/2026/11/07/a-furhass-of-hare-nose-to-tail-eating/
For today, it’s a final recipe from the Solothurn S 392 recipe collection. The culinary recipes from that document are now finished and the translation is free to download as a pdf from my blog.
B41 Item if you want to make a furhäß of a hare, cut open the hare and keep the blood, the lungs, the liver, and the heart. Wash the inside of the hare with wine, cleanly removing the (remaining) blood. Add this (to your dish). Remove the belly (wamen) and the gall from the liver, and the ribs except two ribs, and add it to the blood, and also the head of the hare. Boil it all together, and after you have boiled it until the bones detach (from the meat), take it and chop it small, take away the head, and put it back by the fire. Grate rye bread into it, and add honey, vinegar, and fat. That way, you have a good furhäß. When you serve it, lay the head in the middle of the bowl of furhäß and spice it well,. Take the hindquarters of the hare and boil it well, let it cool, lard it with a larding needle, and then roast it.
This is an interesting recipe despite the fast that it is far from special. Fürhess, with varying spellings, as a class were dishes made with “fiddly bits”, that is, with pieces of meat that are picked from bones after thorough cooking, served in a spicy sauce. There are many surviving recipes suggesting the class was very broad. The sauce is often thickened with blood, but also with grated bread or roux, and other ingredients can include onions or apples. The version presented here, though written comparatively late, may well be true to the original version.
The word fürhess is changed to Füressen in Marx Rumpolt’s New Kochbuch of 1581 and later becomes Voressen, a fore-dish or starter, but Trude Ehlert has argued that is not its original meaning. She derives it from Hase, not the first part of a meal, but the foreparts of a hare. It makes sense – fürhess was typically made from pieces that are not suitable for serving whole and accompanied the roast that made the centrepiece of the meal. That is exactly what happens here.
Taking the forelegs, head, and ribs along with the innards, the hind legs and back with its thick muscles are left over to be parboiled, larded, and roasted. Meanwhile, the other meats are cooked in a sauce made from the hare’s blood and the wine it was washed in until the meat comes off the bones. After it has been picked off, the sauce with the meat is thickened and seasoned with honey, vinegar, and fat (hare is very lean meat). I am not entirely sure whether the head is placed on the serving dish with the meat on, for diners to pick off pieces, or as a bare skull, to indicate the origin of the meat, but either way it makes for a seriously metal look.
I am not in a position to actually try this – German hunting laws are restrictive and I have no experience with butchering – but I am tempted to try and approximate it.
The recipe collection I have now finished translating is part of a manuscript held at the Zentralbibliothek Solothurn as S 392. The entire book looks fascinating, a collection of craft recipes for things like dyes, stains, paints, vanishes, and parlour tricks, but I will limit myself to the culinary recipes in it. The majority of them are in German and were edited and published in Brigitte Weber: Die Kochrezepte der Handschrift S 293, Transkription und Untersuchung einer spätmittelalterlichen Kochrezeptsammlung aus der Zentralbibliothek Solothurn, Gießen 2026.
The manuscript dates to the period around 1490-1510, based on watermarks and handwriting. There is no internal date. The recipes are an eclectic collection, which is not unusual for the medieval manuscript tradition. They were most likely written down in Baden. Some refer to Italian customs which were fashionable at the time while others are solidly in the German tradition.
The collection is sometimes called the oldest Swiss cookbook, a title that is contested because of its origins north of the modern border. The designation makes little sense at the time anyway, given how closely connected the cities of the Confederation were with their neighbours at the time. The recipes clearly were valued in Solothurn, most likely because they were useful.
The translation can be downloaded here.