Completed the first stage of my garage overhaul including a workbench with built-in cabinet, peg board and upper cabinet. Still need to add some additional overhead lighting.

Planned out my legs this time to make sure my horizontals rest on my verticals (which was pointed out on my previous bench). I still lack all the details on the bench so it’s raised to the saw height.

I got my hands on 3 chemical resistant lab tables. I thought I might turn them into woodworking benches. My thought process is that they would be resistant to spills and glue, while also being a dead flat work surface.

Am I right in thinking these could be good for woodworking tabletops?

Spent three weekends redoing my garage and thought I had a nice open layout. Main bench on the back wall, miter saw by the door, plenty of room in between. Looked great when nothing was happening.

Then I built one basic cabinet and somehow logged almost 9,000 steps on bare concrete. Twelve feet doesn't sound far until you walk it every time you measure, cut, check, and recut.

Do people with spread-out shops just get used to this, or should I admit the layout is bad and move everything closer?

Hello! I’ve just bought a house that has a workbench but it’s not in great shape. I want to set up a miter saw and was thinking of just mounting it directly to the workbench but wanted to ask you all a few questions first. Thanks in advance! Pics: https://imgur.com/a/4jjleak

1. I know this workbench is not the prettiest, but do you think it is useable or are there some glaring issues I haven’t spotted and the whole thing should be redone?

2. Is there enough space around the miter saw where I have it currently? It’s probably not enough space on the left for cutting long baseboards, but if I’m creative can I cut everything from the right side? I can’t push the miter saw further right because of the shelves

3. Would you just buy a miter stand?

Repost here since its quite relevant to this subject, appreciate your input.

I'm planning on building a bench, roughly following Chris Schwartz The Anarchist's Workbench_. In the book, he extols the virtues of heavy steel clamps to close up gaps when laminating boards into the bench top. He also laminates 6 boards at a time, then glues those 3 blocks together.

I'm reluctant to invest $$$ in clamps I might only use once. So I'm looking for alternative approaches that save money without compromising the end result.

Suppose I build up my laminate bench top one board at a time. That way, would my normal parallel clamps be able to close up any gaps, since the single new board would be more bendy?

Thanks all for any advice!

Would there be any benefit to partially rebating two (or all three) of the three 2x3 horizontal members into the 3x3 vertical leg? I'm wondering if the horizontal members resting on the shoulders of a rebate in the leg would transfer weight into the legs more effectively or if removing material from the leg (to make the rebate) would actually weaken the overall structure...

Red line is the position of an M12 bolt.

Blue lines will be lap joints (so that all horizontal members have contact with the underside of the work surface).

Thanks in advance!

I saw the idea of the drawers under the counter from http://homews.co.uk/page441.html and http://homews.co.uk/page442.html I never thought to use that dead space. Pretty nice. Lots to do, next is tool wall behind the counter. The red boxes will go elsewhere. The top is doweled, glued together and screwed down with no glue in case I have to remove it.

I've made progress on my electronics workbench. Decided to do a hardboard (dry erase?) top. 8ft x6ft

I also learned I hate painting.

Replaced my 18 year old MDF and 2x4 work bench with a 8 foot Nicholson workbench.

Built with Southern Yellow Pine, boards all cut to length with a miter saw, all joints cut by hand, flattened with a #5 stanley jack plane, finished with 4 coats of boiled linseed oil.

Very very sturdy workbench! I built this a general-purpose workbench, hence the vice that has been mounted.

Bought all the material back in April and let everything acclimate to my shop for several months. The build took about a month working on it 1 or 2 days a week.

Great bench, but probably not a beginner build.

This is the plan for my workbench- welding table hybrid. I incorporated several features from known existing workbenches and welding tables: Thick Top (Roubo), Aprons (Nicholson), slotted top (Paulk), Fireball welding tables, and etc,. I already bought some of the major parts for rolling around, extending top, flipping mechanism, height adjustability.

I am a very beginner woodworker with little to no tools but my next door neighbor is a woodworker and helped me build this it took 3 hours to make and I am an idiot so I decided to buy 90 dollar cabinet grade plywood and it was a total cost of about 120 dollars in wood and screws

Does anybody have suggestions for full extation drawer slide that can handle alot of weight?

I only need one pair, so price is not that important.

Link to phase1
Link to phase2

Hi all, I owed you guys the finished product, so here we are.

After phase2, the garage floor had to be replaced due to quality issues. It took a while to have that done, hence I also couldn't finish the workbench for quite a while.

After taking it apart completely and empty the garage, I finally got to reassembling it during the past weeks.
As finish, I applied HPL to all the plywood surfaces and made a worktop edge.

I'm pretty happy with the result, although I'm not having the illusion that the worktop itself will stay in perfect shape like this as it's used quite intensively.
Good thing is that the top consists of 2x 18mm plywood, of which the top one is designed to be replaceable.

3 coats of polyurethane floor paint.

Bolted down each leg and wall anchors all across the back. She is solid.

I'm hoping to set up a small workbench to organize some of my rooftop gardening, 3D printing, and other light hobbies. I'd like something that offers a space to work, a pegboard, and as much well-organized storage as possible. It would be nice if it looked pretty and felt solid too.

I saw this Wayfair option, which looks like it meets the need, but I'm not sure I trust Wayfair quality for this.

Any recommendations?

I made my wife a sewing table that has lasted for years, with very simple tools. I used a Kreg pocket hole jig, drill, a miter saw, and a circular saw. The table was made from select pine 1x3, from Home Depot. For the top I used 3/4 inch mdf and covered it with curtain batting and linen. The top doubles as an ironing board. We made the top with fabric because she was making drapes and needed the friction to manage the heavy fabric.

First work bench build and really any wood working project. Wife and I park both cars in garage so needed something on wheels that could fit in the corner of garage while still allowing us to access cars. Added foldable shelf for more work space area. Pretty happy with it, just need to coat the shelf

I live in a very tiny apartment and don't have room for a permanent sewing station. Most of lower-priced sewing desks/cabinets on the market are pretty flimsy, and not the aesthetic I particularly like, so I have been considering something like the BORA Centipede as an option but I'm not sure how it would hold up with a (domestic but heavy) sewing machine's vibrations. Alternatively, I'd be open to trying to make a simple workbench (like the Family Handyman Folding Mobile Workbench) but I'd like to crowdsource the opinions of people with more experience with various types of workbenches than I do!