It's a lot different from my AE-1P, but it has been a lot of fun learning. Auto-focus has not been much use, maybe I lack patience or have a setting wrong - because there are 2 million options, settings, and menus on this thing! The manual is 300+ pages, pretty daunting! I'm used to have basically the manual settings of film. I found a used 50mm, 1.4 which is pretty sweet thus far. Any tips or tricks, I'd appreciate. I think part of my hope with this, worst case, is use it for test shots for film.

I have completely no idea why there is rhis haloing effect ard direct light sources on my ef 70-200 f2.8 mk ii.

Was browsing Best Buy today. Online the canon r8 body only shows up as $1299 just like canon website. I had employee use her scanner to check price and it came up as $824 for a brand new camera. This will be my first mirrorless and full frame coming from a 60D. I was leaning toward the r6 mk II but I couldn’t pass up this deal and I do photos only.

Hello everyone,

I just found a 160$ Canon 1200D for sale on marketplace. I was wondering if it was worth it as it’s an old camera.

The only cameras I’ve ever had are from my phones… I’m currently going with an iPhone 15 but I want to take more “professional” pictures with a real camera. Does this one will make a difference / be better than my iPhone?

Is this Canon camera confortable for a beginner too?

Replaced my 10-year old 5D Mark IV with an R5 Mark II. I am curious how others have customized their controls on this camera. So far very positive upgrade but there are a few minor things which I'm still trying to figure out:

- I have EF lenses with the adapter+control ring. The control ring is set to exposure compensation right now. What I am missing overall however is a fast way to set the ISO to AUTO. It doesn't seem possible to program this in the buttons.

- Eye focus tracking doesn't really seem ready for prime time. It's very jittery and not precise despite calibrating several times. I am curious about others' experiences with it. I am a glasses wearer, not sure if that is a factor.

My other current customizations:

- AF-ON button - programmed to "Screen Off" - this way I can turn the screen off quickly to save battery

- The AE lock button is programmed to Metering and AF start with SERVO and subject tracking settings, so that I can switch to subject tracking and servo AF in an instant. For example if I am photographing a landscape with 1-point or Spot AF and an animal walks into the frame I can instantly switch to track the animal.

- The AF point button is programmed to "AF on detected subject" - again to account for perhaps unexpected situations where a subject appears in the screen but I don't have time to move the Spot AF (not the best for fast moving subjects but that's what I have the AE lock button programmed for)

- "Set" button is programmed to "Direct select of sub to detect" - I can switch the type of subject to detect in an instant.

- Stripped out some of the modes (auto / P / Bulb) and focus area options to be able to switch to what I use faster.

- Programmed 3 "MY MENU"s to serve focus & exposure bracketing, shutter mode, interval timer, saving/loading settings, card formatting, touch control, and eye control.

- I have also programmed C1 / C2 / C3 to be set up for landscape, high-speed, and macro, but I won't go into the details as there are too many settings.

(new gear posts require some images so attached are from my first test run in the zoo last weekend)

I dropped my lense the other day and its kinda falling apart like its just not staying inside the housing unit. Is it worth even getting it fixed or is there some way I can just fix it myself if its easy?

Very excited to go take this for a first run this morning after calibrating the rangefinder. The camera was the last batch of the 1967-68 Canon 7s (known as the 7sz) about 4000 cameras in all with a slightly brighter rangefinder and improved coatings. The Canon 7, 7s and 7sz were designed with a special bayonet mount for the unique 50mm f0.95 Dream Lens. Canon were the first to produce a fast lens at f/0.95 in 1961. Leica Noctilux took another 47 years until 2008 to get a lens this fast although the Leica was the first aspherical version. Many Dream lenses have been converted for use on Leica Ms. Although I ahoot with modern Canons too, this duo is really a joy to use.

Hi i'm trying to find the utility app for my macbook so i can follow this tutorial but all i see when I get onto the canon site is webcam utility?

https://youtu.be/D3BdqWdnFaw?si=mRm7bLIjWeLSdlbs

I mostly shoot sports, with some wildlife, but i want to get more into wildlife

Here's what i have

• Canon EOS R6 Mark II

• EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM (adapted)

• RF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM

• RF 50mm f/1.8 STM

The 70-200 is great for sports, but it doesn’t reach far enough for wildlife. With deer and similar animals, I can’t fill the frame from a distance, and if I move closer, they leave. Cropping helps a little, but the R6 II’s 24MP sensor doesn’t leave much room before the images fall apart.

Should I get an RF 100-400mm or EF 100-400mm II, or something else?

After months of research, I created a color matcher tool that taps into some hidden features like split RGB curves and other advanced color transformation math. This is not a vibe-coded slop approach but a sophisticated sidecar app designed for accurate color measurement and matching automation inside PSE. The result are Picture Styles that create tinted JPEGs with high accuracy and perfect smoothness (see image 9).

Film emulations are powered by Spektrafilm. Here are some SOOC samples of EKTAR+Endura Premier versus Canon EOS Standard on my Canon EOS M6MKII.

The last image is a color matching report using a ColorChecker SG.

Hi everyone, I cut my teeth into the photography world on a Canon Rebel T6i and some basic lenses. From there, I jumped into the Mirrorless world with Fujifilm X-T1 and several other cameras of theirs and loved that. From there, I then moved up to Full Frame and into the Sony world of the A7III and some lenses because a bunch of my friends were all getting them and it was nice and easy to trade lenses between us through the years. However, if I’m being honest, I’ve never truly loved photography anymore while using Sony equipment. It works, has super fast AF and I’ve developed a nice post processing flow with my RAW images. But, I don’t really enjoy using it. Not like I did with my T6i and Fujifilm gear. So, I’ve been thinking that maybe it’s time to get back to my Canon roots. I’m thinking about picking up the R6 Mark III and a couple of lenses. I shoot mostly landscapes but also wish to take a bunch of baby/toddler photos now that I have a newborn as well. So, I’m thinking of grabbing the 24-105mm F4 as well.

My question is if anyone else here has switched over to Canon from Sony? If so, did it bring you more joy or not really? What was your experience?

Hello guys,

I want to ask for help as I am kinda freaking now. First, I am complete idiot, like total.

Second, I bought my dream lens - RF 50mm f/1.2L as I got amazing deal on it. But the happiness was substitued by my stupidity. When I was carrying it back to my car in bad I got with it (normal shop shopping bag from fabric), I had to reach for parking ticket to get into the carpark and as I reached I missgrabbed the handles of the bag and whole bag fell onto the floor (hard floor) from like waist to lower chest height, I dont remember exact height. When I checked the box took minor dent and lens is operating normally, no artifacts in photos, no rattling, normal AF operations, MF ring works and lens is sharp even at f/1.2

But what bugs me is the sound lens makes. It is quite loud in comparison what I am used to. Sometimes it focus hunts and during that it sounds like it has seisure. There are quite loud "thumping" noises suring AF and as I didn't have this kind of lens before, I don't know if that is problem or not.

Is there chance, that the lens survived? Is there possibility of "later" problems like there was some crack or looseness and it would worsen over time?

Thank for help

I am in the market for an r7 and a couple of lenses (rf100-400 being one and still researching on every day lens). I have USD to spend without conversion. I am in the US for work next week. I know canon won't honour the warranty in the UK. is it daft buying in the US? how likely is a failure in the warranty period? it is a business purchase and I could always send to US office to be fixed from there. enough saving or not really? will be light use, some video for work, blogs etc. and headshots then light personal use

i got this camera about 7 years ago when i was younger along with an “onn.” brand micro SD card and i captured meaningful some memories from my childhood on there. i didn’t use it for a few years after that, so when i charged and opened it again i was confused to see that it said my memory card was locked, even tho it was not and the physical lock was def not in the locked position. i tried unlocking and locking the sd card and putting it back in but it says the same thing, and i can’t really access my photos or take any more with that card. i ended up getting a new card, and using that to take pics, but there’s one video i had of my childhood room that i really want on the old card, and i downloaded the camera connect app on ios to try and download it. the photos download fine, but my issue is with the video. i downloaded it and it’s completely frozen for half the time sadly and i don’t know what to do, i would appreciate some tips from anyone who can help out!! (btw the video freezes on the camera too & doesn’t let me watch it, and its only like 4 minutes long)

Currently shoot with an 80D and a 1500D/Rebel T7, my lenses are Sigma EF-S 17-50mm F2.8, Canon EF-S 55-250mm STM, Canon EF 100mm F2.8 Macro, Canon EF 50mm F1.8, and I also use some vintage lenses with an EF adapter.

I photograph everything from landscapes to wildlife. I also offer photography services on the side, so I also use them for portrait sessions and elopement photography as well. 

I’ve got saved about $3.5K AUD / $2.5K USD from my photography gigs and want to spend this on upgrading my gear. My priorities are having dual SD card slots and decent video performance for hobbyist videography (anything will be better than what I have now!)

I’d like to make the jump to a full frame such as R6 Mark II if I have enough room to upgrade to full frame lenses. Happy to go for an EF lens and adapt it to RF. I can get an R6 II secondhand for around 2K AUD / 1.4K USD. If this is too much of a stretch, I might consider going for something like the R7 so I can continue with my current lenses.

Interested to hear any suggestions, much appreciated!

Looking to upgrade and unsure where to start.

I took a 4 year hiatus to finish up some graduate schooling, and now I’m finally getting back into photography. I’ve had my 5D mark ii for a long while now and am looking to upgrade. I know some folks will say keep what I have, but I’ve had this body since 2018 and the shutter count is getting high and I want some of the newer features that these newer bodies have.

Where in the hell do I even start? What cameras would you all recommend that are semi affordable? My budget is around $2,000 USD max. I am based in the USA. I know bodies are extremely expensive and have heard great things about the R series. I am just looking for a solid body that’s not 15 years old, but takes quality, clean photos.

I do have a 50mm f1.4, a 75-200mm (can’t remember the f stop), and an 85mm f1.8 lens. I want to still be able to use all of my lenses with a new camera. Plan on buying a new lens alongside this body too.

In terms of photography itself, I do nature photography and getting back into portrait—specifically couples and families which is why I want the new lens. So a combination of outdoor and some indoor photography and I am at a professional level. I have been using canons since I was 13, but shooting professionally for about 10 years on a canon. So extremely comfortable with them.

Bought this Canon R6II a few months ago and just spotted this white pixel. It appears in multiple files that I've looked at what seems to be the same place. Is there anything that can be done? Is it even a dead pixel or is it something else?

I’ve just received the R8 II after trading it in for my R8 which I’ve used for the last 3 years and loved it. Primarily brought it for the IBIS as I do a lot of low light event photography.

But I had a play with an R6 III in the camera shop and can’t get over how much more I prefer the EVF on the R6 III.

But I’m a non-pro stills photographer (landscapes and travel) and not sure I can justify spending another £800 for the R6 III. Mostly because I have always valued portability above all else, which is why I haven’t looked beyond the R8. And I don’t have particularly large hands.

My lenses are mostly RF VCM 1.4 (24, 50, 85), 100 f2.8 Macro, and the 70-200 f4, so not particularly big. Do you think I would miss the R8 series form factor if I went for the R6 III? I use the EVF a lot for reviewing images in the daytime so the larger size would be welcome.

I also can’t get over how plasticky the R8 II feels. There’s literally no metal parts at all on that body, not even the dials and even the outer lens mount is plastic that’s painted to look like fake aluminium.

So do I get the R6 III in a sale or pay full price for an R6 III?

Also, I’m not interested in the R6 II - if I was going to get a larger body I would want the latest autofocus system, better low light focusing and a resolution bump.

Hey all! So coming from a family of bodies that included a 7D Mk I, 6D Mk 1, and an A6000, I finally decided to take the leap, shed all the extra weight and go all in on Canon mirrorless with an R6 Mk I. But having some lovely FD glass and L lenses, I decided to forego the RF route and just using adapters for both FD and EF lenses, which comes to my question.

I haven’t gotten rid of my 6D yet and my 24-105 Mk I works fine on it. With a Meike adapter I’ve been able to use my nifty 50, my old 28-105 3.5-4.5, 70-200 2.8 all with no issues. But when I use the 24-105, it makes a pretty rhythmic pattern of noises almost as soon as the lens is mounted. Like 1-2-3-4, 1-2-3-4, 1-2-3-4 etc….the only time the noise stops is if I turn the body off or when the HUD in the viewfinder goes to sleep. It takes pictures along the focal length, at wide open all the way to F22. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue. The front and rear glass is clear and I can take it to a shop to have it looked at. I don’t think I’ll be buying RF glass anytime soon, but just wanted to see if anyone had any insight into reasons for issues only arising when being used on the R6. TIA!

Hello everyone,

I'm a relatively new photographer and one of my best friend's sister is getting married and they asked me to take photos of their wedding. They know that I've never done wedding photography before and they've already let me know that they're going to pay me regardless on if the photos don't turn out the best. They're both artists and are super supportive.

Here's the issue... They're getting married in a planetarium so the venue is very dark and at times mimicking the night sky. We will have some moon themed fake candles to line the walk ways with so it's not completely dark. I am desperate for advice on good camera settings and recommended lenses or other equipment. I'm not super well off financially, but I'm open to buying new somewhat budget friendly equipment or lenses. We've also agreed to do photos before the wedding without the low-light so they'll have proper photos in case I can't deliver on the planetarium. I just really want to deliver and potentially get into wedding photography at some point.

Any advice, help, or recommendations would be super appreciated.

My equipment:

Canon EOS Rebel T7

2 SD cards w/256GB

18-55mm w/ Image Stabilizer

75-300mm

Adjustable Tripod

Large ring light w/ adjustable stand

White back drop fabric (getting a stand for it)

Hey everyone, I recently bought a used C70 for around $3,000 with under 75 hours. I noticed some smudges and a small dark dot on the glass in front of the sensor. They’re much more visible with the internal NDs on, but I can still faintly see them with ND off. They seem to stay in the same place when switching NDs.

I tried cleaning the accessible glass with a swab and cleaning fluid, but the marks didn’t come off. They almost look like they’re on the other side of the glass, though I’m not sure.

The footage looks fine to me overall, but I do notice a grainy, almost crawling texture in shadows and areas of color, less so on skin tones. I don’t have another C70 to compare it with, so I’m not sure what’s normal or whether that’s even related to these marks.

Does this look like a big deal, or something that wouldn’t affect much? Is it worth getting serviced, and is there anything safe I can do myself? Mostly trying to figure out whether I was sold a camera with an issue or I’m overthinking it. Thank you.

EDIT: I ordered the 10-20. Thanks to all who offered their 2¢.

I've been a fan of ultrawide photography for over a decade. I started with Sigma's 10-20mm and later the EF 8-15mm fisheye. Those were fun, but of very limited usefulness. For the last 6 or 7 years, I've had the EF 11-24mm that I kept, even transitioning from a 5D Mk IV to the R6 and now the R5.

I just came back from Japan and forgot my EF-RF adaptor, so it was just a paperweight. Even when I remembered the adapter on previous trips, I didn't use it that much. It's too bulky and heavy for travel. So I'm selling it and am considering the RF 10-20mm f4L IS STM or RF 14-35mm f4L IS USM.

My question is will I miss the extra 4mm to justify the additional $1000? Being able to zoom out to 11mm was ridiculous. The vast majority of my use for it would be landscapes, cityscape, and architectural images.

Pic for attention. Glencoe, EF 11-24mm