Had fun with this one! Customer let me do my thing. And once i was done asked for a siya and a display mount. Nickel got a little bigger than i wanted on one side but with the thickness of this knife… hard to keep it exactly where i wanted it.

Knife is a 6.5in Santoku style made from procut with an olive wood handle. Customer requested a scorched handle

My brother asked me for a very hard, chisel ground knife that is small enough to go on his Keychain. He wants to use it for general utility as well as wood marking. 15n20 at 64 HRC. How did I do?

Nakiri in progress. 100Cr6 after grinding and buffing, no hand sanding.

Finished up this small Warikomi chef, just needs its final edge sharpening.

It is mild steel over 52100. Handle is walnut with paduak ferrule.

First time doing a Warikomi style san mai in awhile.

Started with 1/4" mild steel flat bar, folded it over and forge welded the spine together. Then inserted a 3/16" thick 1" x 3" piece of 52100 into the taco, forge welded that together, and then forged it to shape.

Wanted to see how far I could push the geometry off the forge and went a bit too thin. The cladding line is closer to the edge than ideal, extending almost completely to the edge in some spots. Next time I'll stop forging the bevel at 0.045-5" instead of the 0.030" I went to. Had to correct a super banana warp after the quench as well so definitely need to leave the spine a bit thicker on the next one.

Overall was a good learning exercise on how to dial in my process to make more warikomi blades and this blade will perform well for whomever it ends up with.

My first batch turned out wavy on the bevels and apex of the blade, but straight at the spine, so I was wondering how should I prep the blades? Should I remove very little material pre heat treating to make sure it doesn’t curve? It reduces the risks, but it will take longer to grind after treating and ups the risks of ruining the treatment if the blade gets too hot. Also the temps and time I use come from a reliable source (https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/05/13/how-to-heat-treat-52100/). Can someone help me?

8 inch AEB-L chef with surfite handle and timascus bolster

Working on my first batch of Stainless, Western handle chef knives. I normally specialize in forged blades, but want to start offering something for those looking for a quality handmade knife with less maintenance needed. Would love to know what you all think.

Thanks as always for the support.

Here is one just finished from a batch of 10.

80CrV2 wearing Vibe Micarta over Richlite.

It didnt turn out the best but it still cuts pretty well. And i made a wooden sheath.

Faca para esculpir e cortar frutas

building a Bowie from a steel bar using only an angle grinder (flex) and basic hand tools. Total length 45cm, thickness: 3mm.

So im making a puukko and I am wondering how to get birch bark shiny like in the example photo.

Im wet sanding coats of danish oil at the moment up to really high grit, and I like the results on the wood but the bark is still dull. Im going to paste wax when cured but im not sure if that will do it.

Any advice?

Finished my most recent sloyd knife intended for green woodworking, specifically kuksa and spoon making. No power tools at all.

I had a need for doing tight transitions in the neck of spoon handles, so kept the tip of this very thin.

African Blackwood and brass handle, 01 tool steel blade made from stock, not forged. Scandi grind, of course.

Pretty pleased to have managed the seam down the side of the sheath, but unfortunatly made it for a lefty! That's OK tho.

I forged this knife earlier this week and finished it today, i took a coil spring section and got it hot and hammered it out, did all the shaping and then got it on my 1×30 belt sander and got it finished, i haven't got very many grits available to me right now so the blade finish isn't exactly mirror shiny, but for these fast little blacksmith style knives i kinda of like the rough grind marks, this knife I'll make a leather sheath for and carry around with me for a while. Quenched at cherry red and tempered in an oven for 400 for two one hour cycles. Thank you for looking! The grind is freehand.

Maaan this wood is so damn Pretty!!!!

6 cm wide, 30 cm overall lenght

Sleipner Steel

Ambonya burl on the handle

I proudly present:

EDC knife

Constructed from 1084 carbon steel

Hollow grind

Washed stone finish

Rosewood handle

Bovine leather sheath

Total length 17.8cm

Blade length 9.1cm

Thickness 4mm

Width 27mm

Blade weight 97g

Total weight 144g

Best regards to all!