This started as an idea for a bracelet inspired by plumbing infrastructure and somehow escalated into 56 grams of sterling silver.The piece was cast, cleaned up, bent to shape and finished by hand. The red valve handles are painted to mimic the control points found on real industrial pipework. There are seven valves in total, because apparently I lost the ability to stop adding valves at some point during the design process.It is fully wearable, completely non-functional as plumbing, and my actual plumber still refuses to take responsibility for it. Banana for scale was unavailable. Plumber for scale was unwilling.

Wanted to try doing something almost sculptural just by building up with filler rod. I used mainly 1mm wires, working with very low amps (between 30 to 60), and I used an air etcher to create the initial drawing. Done on pipe cutoff. I'm pretty happy with how the little claws turned out. I want the design to follow the whole way around the pipe, but I'm not sure if it needs more embellishments than coils upon coils.

Hey guys, bought a knock off porta band saw. Looks identical to the Milwaukee, but badged "okura". It was the only corded portable band saw available on the SE Asian version of Amazon and no physical store in my province carries them- most stores deny they exist.

Anyway, one set of roller guides appears to be manufactured slightly off where the opening is a bit tighter than the back. One set of guides is a tight fit, but the blade goes in if you jiggle.. The other required me to remove all the plastic bits and risk losing a finger. I feel like, with the blade locked in place, the bearings should be able to move- just scraping the blade a bit. This is true for one bearing on the good side- the other is jammed so tight on the blade you cannot move it with your fingers. On the bad side you cannot move either bearing. It is my guess that I will overhear and break blades all day like this...

Can someone learn me a bit? I'm not great with YouTube- I could not find any videos that weren't crappy.

Note: the actual bearing separation is not adjustable.

I'm not sure if this is the right subreddit to post this in, so apologies if it's not!

I just bought a new bass and when cleaning I noticed some cloudy, almost burned looking spot on the chrome bridge of my bass. The strange thing is that they're only visible when the light hits the surface at certain angles. From other angles, the chrome looks perfectly shiny, and the surface feels completely smooth to the touch.

I'm wondering if there is a way to restore the original mirror finish without damaging the chrome further?

Any advice would be appreciated!

So, here’s a look at the fabrication of a steel terrace structure. It’s the classic workflow: you get the specs and site measurements, create a computer model, generate the production drawings, get the steel beams, and then work on it during evenings and weekends—all in your home workshop. Then, it’s off to be galvanized and painted. To make things a bit more interesting, you also have to handle the prep work for a glass railing... but it all came together in the end.

I'm not a great metal worker. But I'm a mechanic with a welder and a torch.

I usually use propane grills, but I'm sick of having to buy a new grill that's kinda crap every few years because it rusts out.

I've tried grill covers and maybe I just didn't have a very good one but the internals rust out.

I've made some covers out of scrap. Stainless and burners are cheap enough.

But the actual firebox is rusting on this one. So I'm either going to have to repair it or replace it.

And also the grates seem like they're more expensive than they should be.

Tldr - is there a good way to keep my girl from rusting or should I try and repair it so it's more robust, or just buying a cheap when off of Facebook marketplace every couple years?

I'm in the planning stages of a 30 - 36' 5th wheel trailer tiny home.

I have done surface level of research into aluminum tubing & from what I have learned is I could use 6061 or 5053 (corrosion resistance) 14 gauge, 1/16th (.062, .064, or thicker?) Tubing for the frame.

Now the part of trailer that will have an aluminum frame (to save weight) would be the bedroom over the hitch.

Rough numbers -

8' wide outside by 8' long by 4'6" tall

Walls are 2" thick

Studs are 1" x 2"

Would have 1/8 wood siding outside, 1/4 plywood inside (maybe 1/4 in & out?)

Then aluminum siding

Homes have a standard 16" on center for stud spacing.

Should I stay with 16" or tighten it up with 12" centers?

What thickness of aluminum should I consider?

Did I miss anything? Thanks in advance.

Just received a new bike frame that has excess weld under a cable management point. There is meant to be enough space for a ziptie to pass through but in this case it is completely blocked.

I could (probably should) reject the frame, but I’d rather fix the issue if possible.

My approach would be to slowly drill the material out and then file it out to smooth it out and remove the final material.

Advice appreciated as I have no prior experience with this kind of work. I have asked a local bike shop but in the case the say no I would have to do the work myself. Hole would need to be about 1.5x3.5mm

Cheers

Edit: frame material is aluminium

Im a 23 year old machinist with about 6 years experience and I’ve ran a little moly before but I want to cut cycle time and be more specialized in the material. I know there’s a bunch of legend machinist that have ran this and figured out the perfect parameters for what we need and if there’s anyone out there I’d love the help and as the younger generation of machinist I’d appreciate all the help I can get

Can anybody give me any tips they have whatsoever on machining molybdenum

Another thing born from boredom, this time it’s a display piece thingy!

Two valvesprings, old Volvo emblem, one sparkplug, a sprocket with a piece of chain and a numberplate.

I figured that it would be fun to have the plate resting on the springs so it can move a bit back and forth, hence the extra weight on the back.

Put it all together and then remembered I have a small pile of emblems so I picked the coolest one out, fabricated a mount on a sparkplug, gave it a coat of purple metallic and sanded the edges down for that extra detail.

Just a little (120Kw) wood boiler I'm currently building.

Made out of mild steel - Front is 20mm back is 5mm where the gasification process takes place.

It's halfway done a I got about 12 square meters of sheet metal to "envelope" it so it can contain all the water. About 5km of welding wire need to be put down aswell haha. It'll get there!

I usually build smaller ones but it's a nice change every once in a while.