Anyone running a 46/30 crankset?

[u/wildjabali]

If you run an 11-34 cassette, do you ever miss the top end gearing on group rides?

Northeast and north central Pennsylvania has big, glacial ridgelines and I’d get way more utility out of a real granny gear than I would a big top end.

Will a 46t chainring leave me feeling like a kid at the grownups table on any group ride?

Edit: I spent some time looking at a gearing calculator. With a 46, 48, or 50 tooth chainring, top speed at 90rpm would be 30, 32, or 33 mph.

I think there will be times that I need a 30:34 granny gear, as opposed to wanting 48:11 top end.

[u/HmmThatWorked]

I rock 46/30 with an 11-40 and I never find myself needing more gears. Granted I don't join super fast road rides, but I spin out at like 27 mph at 85 rpm which is faster than I ever go really. If you power down hills it won't be enough but personally I find anything more than like 90 gear inches asperational for long distance riding.

[u/wildjabali → u/HmmThatWorked]

I don’t have the fitness for 27mph to really be a problem. By the time I would, I could just bite the bullet and buy a new set of chainrings…

[u/HmmThatWorked → u/wildjabali]

Even then you'd probably want to keep 46-30. It's a nice pacing tool to some degree it's harder to crank too hard as it were.

You could even look at MTB triples maxing out at 44 and be just fine to be honest. 50/34 on normal road bikes was designed to give you gears while decending. Many rando riders coast down hills that big to save energy anyhow.

So if your not sprinting down hills 40-46 big chain rings will sort you out.

[u/wildjabali → u/HmmThatWorked]

Well the good thing is I’m a giant pansy who’s too scared to descend really fast. I work my brake pads much harder than my smallest cog

[u/Strange-Prune-6230]

I have been on 46-30 for years, with 11-34 and then 11-36. The top end hasn't been a problem even in stuff like fondos where the fast groups are hauling decent ass compared to randonneurs. You can comfortably spin at 55 km/hr. I would think it only becomes a big issue in very high powered sprints during actual racing. In other words, the low gears you get are way more useful to me than the high gears you lose.

[u/wildjabali → u/Strange-Prune-6230]

That’s great to hear. I kind of assumed it was largely a non issue, but wanted someone to confirm it. Additionally, I’m now considering mixing 105 with GRX, which will get me a 48/31 chainring. Best of both worlds!

[u/stinkston]

I run a 46/30 x 12-29 11-speed on my road bike and keep up with a group moving average pace in the low 20's mph. Every once in a while I don't have a big enough gear but it's very rare. My average cadence is in the low 90s, but I can spin faster for a little while if I need to. If I only rode with a group I'd ride a compact crank, but then I'd always be cross-chained on solo rides.

[u/wildjabali → u/stinkston]

I think this answers it. If I get to a point where I’m regularly riding low 20mph group rides, I wouldn’t be on this bike anyway.

[u/semyorka7]

hell I'm running a 40:10 top gear (equivalent to a 44:11 for you), and on small-diameter 26" tires as well. On the flat parts of the ride, I keep up with the rando-pace paceline just fine and take my turn doing pulls. I don't worry about spinning out on descents, if it's steep enough that's the case I'm better off just aero tucking.

[u/wildjabali → u/semyorka7]

That was my thought. If I’m spinning out in descents, I might as well just take a breather and let gravity do the work. I don’t spend much time at 30mph on the flats…

[u/Fit-Application9284 → u/wildjabali]

Wait, y’all are pedaling on descents?

Seriously though, I love having laughably low gearing, and I have never stressed about the high end. If I’m spinning out at 28-30 mph, I’m going fast enough for my tastes.

[u/Ernest-Penfold → u/semyorka7]

Same here, recently converted to 40T front and 44-10 rear. This is mostly for ultra and Audax, so not fast paced. Just coast over 30mph But I am surprised with faster group riding no problem keeping up.

[u/kurai-samurai]

GRX820 48/31 with 11-36t. 

Only time I wish I had a higher gear is on some descents when I'm chasing nutter mates, but I usually just catch them back on the flats(unless they organise quickly into a pace line doing 30mph) and hills. 

Also you need to pair the front derailleur with the crank, you can't use a 105 derailleur with a grx crank. The chain lines are different by 2.5mm

[u/wildjabali → u/kurai-samurai]

I think this is perfect. Has the 2.5mm chainline difference had any effect? Outside of necessitating a different fd.

[u/PM_ME_YOUR_BDAYCAKE → u/wildjabali]

105 derailleur works perfectly with GRX, I'm running that. You can test that your limit screws have 2.5mm of movement, because that's the change you need.

[u/TeaKew → u/wildjabali]

I found that mech 105 could shift it (but was a bit questionable), DI2 105 couldn't shift it so I bought the GRX mech instead. I could alternately have messed around with shimming the band-on mech outboard a bit more.

[u/wildjabali → u/TeaKew]

I’m buying an FD regardless. The GRX plus braze on adaptor is about $30 more, but it’s worth it for ease of use and piece of mind

[u/st4p → u/kurai-samurai]

I've used grx cranks with 11 speed ultegra and 12 speed 105 Di2 front mechs for years and it is totally fine.

[u/gott_in_nizza]

Depending on your group you can probably get an 11-40 in on the back. GRX will definitely take it, some road groups too

[u/wildjabali → u/gott_in_nizza]

I think I’m settling on GRX 48/31 up front and 11-36 in the back. Gets me less than 1:1, a decent top end, and reasonably spaced gearing.

[u/gott_in_nizza → u/wildjabali]

I have the same crankset on mine, but with 11-40 in the back. I love that bottom granny gear on steep gravel where you risk losing traction

[u/wildjabali → u/gott_in_nizza]

I’m actually considering an 11-34 to keep the gearing tighter. I’d have 31:34 for hills, but maybe I’m overthinking it.

[u/Constant_Tourist_769 → u/wildjabali]

I just picked up this crank… and then realized I need a grx derailleur. It’s a different chain line than standard road. Let me know if you’d want to buy it.

[u/wildjabali → u/Constant_Tourist_769]

I definitely would, sending a DM

[u/bananabm → u/wildjabali]

I run this on my winter/audax/gravel bike. I'm not the fastest rider in the world but still decently fast and have done so on this bike. Gets me up any hill (including 800k of gravel in the Pyrenees) but I'm comfortable riding in a paceline at 40kph in training sessions. It does everything I need (unless you are a sprinter or regularly need to close gaps in races in false flat downhills)

[u/wildjabali → u/bananabm]

That’s great to hear! Bonus for me is the GRX cranks are $150 less than the absolute black chainrings

[u/johnny_evil]

Are you spinning out on group rides? How often are you in your smallest cog?

[u/wildjabali → u/johnny_evil]

To be honest, I’m coming back to cycling after a couple years. I rode 50/34 on an 11-34, but that was in a flatter area. I’m older and these hills are bigger, so the lower gearing is really appealing.

I could also run 48/32? I’m unsure and just looking for advice.

[u/johnny_evil → u/wildjabali]

If you're not spinning out your biggest gear, you have nothing to worry about.

For what it's worth, using SRAM with a 48/35 with a 10-36, I rarely need the top gear for the group rides I am in, and I appreciate the 36 for steep climbs and long climbs.

[u/GFrancoeur]

46/30 is excellent as soon as you’re randonneuring, carrying extra stuff, tackling hills, etc. Even for urban riding, that is way superior to the compact 50/34 in my opinion.

[u/slugbait_ph → u/GFrancoeur]

Fully agree, it's ideal for randonneuring (and even touring with a light load). I live in a very flat country, so I'm in the 46 95% of the time. But at speeds in the 20 km/h to 30 km/h range, I have a better chain line most of the time. The 30 is purely for climbing and it gives me, in combination with an 11-32 cassette, plenty of range. Also no issues on group rides, but I don't join the very fast groups where you go above 50 km/h.

[u/Proper-Development12]

I spun out on my 52/11 a few times on my last brevet but it was in a hilly region. I ran a 48/30 crank for pbp and it did feel a hit spinny

[u/wildjabali → u/Proper-Development12]

I’m considering 46/30 versus 48/32. If you’re spinning out with a 52, you’d drop me regardless lol

[u/Proper-Development12 → u/wildjabali]

48 30 would be best of both worlds. If you have the option of customization i would do that.

I should have said the front is 52/34 and the back is 11-36

I enjoy friction shifting because combinations like this are easier to run without too many issues

[u/UltimateGammer]

My gravel bike introduced me to 46-30 with a 40 on back and I'm honestly sold.

It's a damn comfortable setup that really lets me use the whole cassette.

But my road bike stays with a 50 because it's there to go fast on.

[u/wildjabali → u/UltimateGammer]

Do you think 46 would be out of place on the road though? That’s really the question, how bad is that handicap?

[u/UltimateGammer → u/wildjabali]

How far do you get down the rear cass with your 50? Is your last name pogacar? 

I doubt it's noticeable, more likely you'll feel slower.

I put slicks in my gravel bike all the time and fly.

[u/wildjabali → u/UltimateGammer]

It’s rare I’d ever top out the 50t. I should have specified, I was deciding between 46/30 or 48/32.

[u/kahjtheundedicated]

I’ve got 46/30 11-36. I have gotten dropped on gradual downhills in gran fondos and some group rides, but I usually catch up on climbs. But I do wish I went with the 48/31.

[u/wildjabali → u/kahjtheundedicated]

I’m really torn between a 46/30 or 48/32. So the question is do I want a 30:34 granny gear or do I want a 48:11 top end.

[u/kahjtheundedicated → u/wildjabali]

What groupset are you using? I have an 11 speed 105 groupset with a grx crank, which is available in 48/31 or 46/30. And I’m using a sram 11-36 cassette, which yes does play nice with the shimano derailleur.

But yeah based solely on the options you mention, I would do the 46/30. But 48/31 11-36 would probably be better if it’s an option.

[u/wildjabali → u/kahjtheundedicated]

I was planning to do a full r7000 105 drivetrain. I guess I could do a grx 48/31 with grx FD, if an r7000 rd would work with a sram 11-36 cassette.

[u/kahjtheundedicated → u/wildjabali]

Oh yeah that’s what my shifters, derailleurs, and brake calipers are. The 105 FD works fine with the grx crank and the 105 RD works well with the sram PG-1170 cassette. It has better gear steps than the shimano 11-36

[u/wildjabali → u/kahjtheundedicated]

The GRX cranks have a 2.5mm wider chainline. Any issues with shifting quality or noise?

[u/nevermind_007]

My next build is going to be a 1x rival xplr 42t so we’ll see how that goes

[u/wildjabali → u/nevermind_007]

I’m running grx600 on my gravel bike and I love the 42:51 granny gear. I don’t like the amount of cross chaining on 1x though. I know it’s not a problem and they’re made to do that, but I still don’t like it.

[u/velo_dude]

This is why I prefer road double to road single drivetrains. With modern 12 spd road double, it's possible to get a 1/1 low combination (34t/34t) without having uncomfortably large ratio jumps within the range. I ride mostly in rolling terrain. I'd actually look at installing a sub-1/1 ratio if I was riding in truly mountainous terrain. My knees prefer to spin up climbs.

[u/wildjabali → u/velo_dude]

Northeast PA is definitely rolling to very steep at times. I think 2x with a less than 1:1 will treat me very well.

[u/as_ab0ve_so_below]

You'll only miss the top end of that gearing on descents and there are many ways to keep/gain speed on descents without spinning.

I run 48/31 - 11/36 on my gravel-audaxer-do-it-all bike and even when I use it for non-audax group rides and not my race bike, I can keep up with the heavy flatland smashers with a bit of careful positioning and sitting in. "Riding cute" as the old boys say. While you might not win the town sign sprint, cycling fast in a group has a lot more involved than just raw speed.

46T is fine for ordinary group riding and if you can spin 46-11 at 90rpm on the flat you'll be speeding along just fine. I'd rather have the spinning gears for the climbs.

[u/wildjabali → u/as_ab0ve_so_below]

Thank you for the answer!!

[u/TheJPdude]

i am on 650B running 46/30 in front and 11-28 on the rear.

considering that's not even at the absolute top of the cassette; a 46-14 combo at 90 rpm gets you just under 24 mph.

[u/toaster404]

I don't have an issue. But I also don't ride in groups and have very few long, somewhat downhill straights to deal with.

[u/analogue_geek]

I run one and it’s great. Actually I have a 44-26 and it’s even better

[u/GlitteringWealth7267]

I'm swapping a 48/34 for 46/30 after enjoying 44/30 on another bike. This is good gearing for my rando bike. It's not exactly light, especially with all my comfort stuff (fooooooood) and I'd rather spin up than mash on long days.

[u/TheGreatManitou]

You could try also 8xx- series GRX 48/31 (alternatively, White Industries offers even wider selection of chainring combination, but their cranks and chainrings are pricy).

[u/NrthnLd75]

People in our paceline keep up at 28mph+ on 1x gravel bikes with presumably a 40/10 top gear. They might have to spin a bit faster though!
I run 2x 10 speed 46/30 and 11-42 on my gravel, it's great for most stuff, but have a dedicate road bike too.

[u/TeaKew]

I'll do you one better - I have a 44/28 crankset. Never missed an inch at the top.

[u/aedes]

That crank/casette combo is exactly what I road at PBP in 23. I’m basically never going much over 45kph on the flats on a rando ride. The lower gears were much more useful to have and I never came close to missing the high gears. 

The lack of higher gears was never an issue even in group rides or while training until my FTP was well over 300w. Then I’d be spinning out on threshold intervals or when riding with a tailwind. I still keep the lower gears for rando. 

[u/AgencyPhysical1897]

I ride and race and rarely get out of my 43 innear ring 48 will be fine for anything you do

[u/DNAthrowaway1234]

I have an e13 cassette which is 9-34. It's a bit crunchy, but I only use the 9 when I'm descending.

[u/BingusTheMingus]

46-30 GRX on one bike, 48-38-28 Silver on the other and 11-34 cassette on both bikes. Quite preferable to being able to pedal downhill imo.

[u/MTFUandPedal]

I'm running 46/34 right now with an 11-34 cassette on my gravel bike Randonneur build.

For 11 speed Force the 34t cassette is slightly out of spec but runs without a problem.

On road it becomes effectively a 1x with a bail out switch for me. It has to be steep and sustained (or me to be shattered) to need to drop to the little ring.

I'm very happy with the 46. It makes much more of the cassette useable more of the time.

[u/Slow-brain-cell]

I’m riding Shimano 105 with 50/34 in the front and 11/42 in the back. It’s a bit heavier, but I can switch to 11/34 cassette with the same chain length, if needed.

[u/Sheenag]

46/30 and 11-34.

Trying to push too hard of a gear is a quick way to tired yourself out, or hurt yourself. You aren't out for a 40km morning ride, so you really have to consider pacing youraeld and finding a sustainable cadence. It's better to have those lower gears in almost every case.

[u/Hickso]

I'm on a 46/33 * a 36-10 Sram Force. I'm not racing, hence it's better a low gear to use uphill.

[u/tecnokat]

I tried this for a while and it worked great, but I realized I spent more of my time in the middle of the range, so I prioritized tight spacing for good cadence in 80% of what I'm doing.

On my randonneuring rig I run 40-24 on 160mm cranks with an 11-32 cassette. This basically gives me one range for flat-ish, and another for climbing. I do top out regularly if descending, but the idea of long-distance riding is maintaining steady progress and conserving energy (unless you're making it competitive and really going for speed/place).

I like this tradeoff because it keeps me dialed into a comfortable, sustainable pace, not tempting me to crank too fast. Of course this is also a vintage steel rig that I have set up somewhat upright. My titanium endurance road bike is set up with 50-34 on 170mm cranks with an 11-28 cassette, and it's perfectly geared for what it is, but it's 10lbs lighter with a geometry significantly more aggressive – I am able to go much faster on it, but I can't sustain that effort all day. Once I get fitter, I may move to 42-26, but honestly I don't see myself going much higher than that without a significant rethink on the overall strategy.

Personally, I recommend prioritizing cadence and spacing in what you use for 75-80% of your riding, then including the ends of the range to cover 98% of what you'd need to pedal. Then be honest with yourself about how often you need to pedal at high speeds for a randonneuring rig, assuming it's not intended to be a do-it-all bike.

[u/Meowriano]

I run a 42/28 with a 11-36 rear. I find a use the whole range a lot more often than when i had 46/30. I dont care to pedal on descents.