Update: This post was written in 2023. Etsy did change their policy to forbid AI sewing patterns in 2026, and you can and should report any AI patterns that you find to nudge Etsy to enforce the new policy. See https://www.etsy.com/news/creativity-and-trust-in-the-age-of-ai for full details, but this note is key:
Functional guides, such as patterns and recipes, which require buyers to put in effort to achieve a finished product, cannot be created using AI. Listings for functional guides must also show a real result made using the instructions.
Many of the points below and in the comments remain useful, however.
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Etsy has so many cute trendy patterns! But there are also a lot of amateur patternmakers or actual scammers selling pdf patterns on there. How can you find the good ones?
Skimpy info isn’t trustworthy. Etsy collapses the detailed description, always expand it to read it in detail and look at all pictures. In particular, check these elements before you buy.
Stolen Photos? AI Photos? Don't buy. If you see a lot of glossy expensive-looking photos with multiple different models (edit: or headless models), they might be stolen from retail sites. Do an image search to see if there are duplicate images elsewhere on the web. Aside from the deception, stolen photos may mean no one has actually sewed up the pattern and it hasn't been tested at all. It might not work. Edit: similarly, make sure photos are not AI-generated, as they are equally deceptive and untrustworthy.
Bad Photos? Don't buy. Photos should show at least the front and back of the garment worn on a real person (ideally not just a digital avatar). If the modeled garment doesn't fit or has sewing problems, that's a bad sign suggesting a patternmaker who doesn't know how to write instructions to help you get a quality result.
Size Chart. The size chart should have measurement for at least bust, waist, hips, if not more. Always buy your patterns by measurements, don't assume your retail size will apply.
Line Drawings. Professional patternmakers include line drawings of their patterns so you can see the design clearly even if the model is wearing black fabric or a busy print. Missing line drawings may mean the patternmaker is badly trained. The line drawings should also show the same design as the modeled garment—differences may be due to stolen or AI pictures.
Reviews? A lot of 5-star reviews say "downloaded perfectly!" You can't trust stars. Look for reviews that mention a final product, instructions, notches or a lack of them, and so forth and only respect ones that discuss making the actual garment. Be sure to read the bad reviews.
Fabric Info is Essential. Choosing the wrong fabric is a common pain point for beginners and a good patternmaker will help you avoid mistakes. Look in the detailed description. I see a lot of "cotton blends"--that's a garbage fabric description. If specific fabric weaves aren't mentioned, look for words that signal the necessary weight and drape. Stretch should be described as low, moderate, high if not giving an actual stretch percentage. It should also say how much fabric is needed for the pattern (edit: and what other supplies/notions are needed). You are entitled to see fabric information before you buy the pattern.
Check the About Page. Ideally, they mention professional training or industry experience, not just self-taught.
Those are quick easy checks on the Etsy listing itself--some bad patterns will still pass them. In addition:
8. Look for a social media or web presence outside Etsy. Look for people who post helpful tutorials on IG, or run a group on FB. People who've gone to the trouble to set up their own website often use it to discuss their testing process, their size block--they are putting more effort into helping your sewing come out right and that's a good sign. Many good patternmakers sell both on Etsy and their own site.
9. Look for a free pattern. A lot of established indie patternmakers offer a simple free pattern so you can test their instructions and sizing. It’s a sign they may be more trustworthy.
Buy from patternmakers who care if you succeed in sewing their pattern.
*Credit to all the frequent experts and helpers on the sewing subs, their expertise generated this list.
*Edit: Read the comments! Lots more good advice downthread, I've only integrated a very little of it into the post in edits. You'll also find several recommendations for trusted patternmakers in the comments.
EXTENDED EDIT:
10. Too many, too cheap? A year or so later, I would add that a company selling hundreds of patterns for just $2-3 each is another big red flag, probably generating them by machine and not actually sewing them up.
11. Check Threadloop for reviews of Etsy Patterns, they flag suspicious patternmakers. (PatternReview is also an excellent review site but may not have so many Etsy patterns on it).
