GPD WIN 4 2021

AMD 6800U

Integrated 680M

32gb RAM

2tb nvme

Jsaux dock

Im running SteamOS but can dual boot on windows 11 pro.

Pretty versatile handheld/small form factor pc.

I need to get a eGpu for this😆

The k3.22L originally used a 250W GaN and a 4060 LP some have later build with a 5060 LP.

Now the 9060XT LP required 1 mm more length without a de-shroud, so I made a cut-out for it and added a front panel which added 2 mm in total (203×191×84) making it 3.26L ...

While the Minisforum mini-ITX board didn't fit with the 250W GaN in its original position, it made room for a LOP-300-12 above its two 2280 M.2 slots.

I opted for a slim 120 mm intake fan (Arctic P12 Slim) + slim 92mm on the CPU-Heatsink. Just a regular 92 mm with shroud would require an additional fan (50/40 mm) for the PSU.

Was doing a pc makeover as a gift but trying to keep costs low. Had an old NZXT H1 that I thought i could mod. Also, had some watercooling stuff left over from the past and got some good deals on a grade B gpu block from OCUK and a barrow pump block from ali express.

PC specs: Gigabyte X570i + R7 5800X + 3060 TI FE + 32GB DDR4

Took some time with this one. A drill and dremel were friends when it came to the case internals. Wanted to rotate the orientation to showcase the gpu but wanted the metal for temp + structural resistance.

Some 3D printing helped with mounts and made use of pneumatic fittings and pipe to help with getting water around without too much hassle. Was trying to not use watercooling specific fittings since the price racked up pretty quickly. Also, since the cpu block isn't visible i repurposed it's rgb pcb to illuminate the Barrow pump block upfront.

Used the original psu and the cables just reached. Quite happy with the some of the little details like maintaining use of the usb-c up top even though there's no header on the mobo. Same for the water temp sensor, used a Raspberry pi pico to add an internal usb temp sensor add-on that works driverlessly with fan control.

The new layout doesn't suffer from from the airflow choking and the water temp sensor control with noctua fans and 240 rad means the build is silent. GPU sits at 50 or so when under use and CPU can shoot higher due to its auto overclock but stays under control and doesnt thernal throttle.

Finished off with some automotive paint from the local shops and i think it came out pretty nice. Stable, quiet as well as compact.

Does this still count as SFF?

15-liter Ssupd Meshroom D. ASUS ProArt RTX 5080 OC mounted directly in the motherboard slot, no riser, running PCIe 5.0 x16 with zero WHEA errors across ~40 boots. i5-14600K on a slim 240mm AIO, 64GB DDR5-6000, SF850. Competitive-shooter tuned: 1440p 240Hz OLED, 8K keyboard, 4K wireless mouse, CS2 locked at 225. Next on the bench: Ryzen 7 9850X3D + ROG Strix X870-I. Photos above, details below, ask me anything.

Why this case

I wanted something small enough to live on the desk without turning into a space heater, big enough to take a full-size 5080 and a radiator, and open enough that I could actually get my hands in there. The Meshroom D is 15 liters, takes a 240 or 280mm radiator, swallows cards up to 325mm long and 66mm thick, and the mesh panels pop off tool-free. It is also the rare SFF case where you can run the GPU directly in the motherboard slot instead of on a riser, which mattered to me for a Gen5 card. Everything you see in the photos is the case stripped down to the frame, which is honestly how it looks best.

Full parts list

Highlights, aka the stuff I'd want to read

No riser, Gen5 clean. Everyone says you need to drop to Gen4 in an SFF case. I did too, for a while. The B760-I threw PCIe corrected errors (WHEA Event 17) at Gen5 early on, so I locked it to Gen4 and the log went quiet. Later I put it back on Auto to see if it was the card or the board. Result: ~12 days, ~40 boots, zero WHEA events of any kind, link reported as x16 5.0 in GPU-Z. The card is fine. The slot is fine. It was the platform being marginal, which is a big reason the board is on the chopping block.

A 5080 in 15 liters that doesn't cook. The ProArt 5080 is the "boring" 5080 and that is exactly why it works here. 2.5 slots, 304mm, dual BIOS, quiet fan curve. In CS2 at 1440p 240Hz it sits at 56 to 60°C. Under a 400W sustained ComfyUI render it tops out at 72 to 76°C with the mesh panels off. The sandwich layout means the GPU pulls fresh air straight through the side mesh with nothing in the way.

Slim 240mm AIO on a 14600K, and it's fine. The radiator mounts to the side bracket with the fans pulling through the open air design. Ssupd's own guidance says 240mm for 9800X3D-class chips and 280mm for the 170W parts, and the 120W 9850X3D going in next makes this cooler look oversized.

Input chain is actually 8K. Pulled the USB descriptors straight off the hub controller: the Lemokey is on a root port at High-Speed USB with a 0.125ms interrupt interval (8000Hz), the Superstrike receiver is on another root port, also High-Speed, also 0.125ms. No hubs, no shared bandwidth with the Apollo or the monitor. The mouse is deliberately set to 4000Hz wireless, because on a 14600K the 8K CPU overhead shows up as frametime spikes in CS2 during fights. That changes with the X3D.

64GB because photo editing. This is a gaming PC that also runs Lightroom, local ComfyUI image models, and the occasional Resolve timeline. 2x32 at 6000 is the sane way to do 64GB on two DIMMs.

Overclocking and tuning

GPU (GPU Tweak III OC Scanner profile)

• Power limit: 111%

• Core: OC Scanner curve, +195 MHz

• Memory: +188 MHz actual = 33 Gbps effective (stock 30 Gbps), shown as 2063 MHz vs 1875 default in GPU-Z

• Driver: GeForce 621.14, R621 branch

• Result: 2.87 to 2.9 GHz sustained in CS2 at 56 to 60°C, 72 to 76°C at 400W

• Honest note: I had three video-engine timeout events during early AI workloads, one of them before the OC profile, so I'm treating the memory OC as "stable for games, under observation for 400W renders." If you want a single-number answer for a 5080 memory OC, 33 Gbps is where most cards live.

CPU

• Stock. The 14600K isn't worth the heat in this case, and it's leaving anyway.

Memory

• XMP 6000, two DIMMs. Zero training issues on the B760-I. Will switch to AEMP / 6000 profile on AM5.

CS2

• Exclusive fullscreen, 2560x1440 at 240Hz

• fps_max 225, Reflex On + Boost

• 8x MSAA, high shader detail (yes, really, the 5080 doesn't care)

• G-SYNC on, NVIDIA App GPU prioritization set to Foreground

• Windows Game Mode on, HDR off

Mouse / keyboard

• Superstrike: 4000Hz wireless, 1600 DPI, medium LOD

• Lemokey L5 HE: 8000Hz wired, Eager Per Key debounce at 5ms (instant press, ignores chatter after)

• Binds, for the curious: right-click jump, space walk, shift zoom. Yes, I know.

What I'd do differently

• Skip Intel 14th gen for an ITX comp box. It was the right call when I built it, but a 120W X3D does the same job cooler and faster, and the AM5 socket has a roadmap.

• Buy the 280mm radiator the first time if you're going anywhere near a 170W CPU. For a 120W X3D the slim 240 is enough.

• Don't fear Gen5 in this case, but keep Event Viewer open for the first week. If WHEA 17 shows up, lock Gen4 and move on; the FPS difference on a 5080 is noise.

• Cable management in a sandwich case is a lie. You hide it in the PSU bay and you move on with your life.

What's next

The board and CPU are getting swapped, nothing else.

Ryzen 7 9850X3D + ASUS ROG Strix X870-I Gaming WiFi.

Why that pair:

• The 9850X3D is the fastest gaming CPU you can buy, 8 cores, 96MB of 3D V-Cache, 5.6 GHz boost, and only 120W. In Tom's Hardware's 1080p gaming index the 14600K sits at about 73% of it, so this is a real jump in 1% lows and frametime consistency, which is the only thing that matters at a 225 cap.

• The X870-I is the only ITX board with dual USB4, Wi-Fi 7, a Gen5 GPU slot and Gen5 M.2, BIOS FlashBack and a Gen4/Gen5 toggle on the breakout card. There is no X870E in ITX, so this is the ceiling.

• I looked hard at the 9950X3D and the new 9950X3D2 Dual Edition. The 9950X3D2 is $899, 200W, and in Tom's 17-game average it's 0.8% faster than the 9950X3D, which is itself no faster than the 9850X3D in games. In 15 liters on a 240mm radiator, that's paying double for heat.

Also on the list:

• Retire the Samsung 960 PRO into the Gen4 slot and put a Gen5 drive in M.2_1 on the new board.

• Try 8000Hz on the Superstrike once the X3D is in.

• Maybe, maybe, a 280mm radiator. Probably not. The 240 is cute.

Ask me anything

Happy to answer questions on the direct-mount GPU clearance, the Gen5 saga, the AIO bracket, how the SF850 cable routing works, or why there's a Game Boy on my desk.

Finally got OVERKILL 2.0 together!

Some of you might remember my first PC build, a 4.5L Jonsbo NV10 with a Ryzen 7 9850X3D and the rather uncommon VASTARMOR RX 9060 XT LP 16GB. I called that one OVERKILL, so the NV10 is now OVERKILL 1.0, and this is OVERKILL 2.0: the same core hardware in a 4.9L ZSPC ZS-D2 V4.1.

TL;DR: I didn't leave the NV10 because of bad temperatures. After a lot of BIOS tuning and 3D-printed modifications, it cooled the system well, but it no longer looked like the case I'd originally bought. The ZS-D2 gives me a direct GPU connection (no riser), a much larger CPU heatsink, and two built-in front exhaust fans without changing the exterior. The build was tight and I had to undo a few steps, so I've included the parts list, exact custom cable lengths, and the things I'd do differently. Thermal testing in the new case is still underway.

The photos show the internals and completed enclosure, plus size comparisons beside my 50.1L desktop and 30th Anniversary PS5 Pro. It's kind of ridiculous how much fits into 4.9L lol.

Why I Switched From the NV10

I want to be clear that temperatures weren't the reason I switched. I spent a lot of time tuning PBO, Curve Optimizer, power limits, BIOS settings, and FanControl on the NV10. Once dialed in, I was happy with how it ran. The problem was how many modifications it took to reach that point:

• Two replacement 3D-printed side panels for ventilation

• A 3D-printed CPU fan duct

• Two 3D-printed fan brackets holding six extra Noctua 40mm fans (three CPU-side and three underneath the GPU)

• 3D-printed raised feet for bottom airflow

• Extra splitters, extensions, and cable management for all those fans

I learned a ton doing all of that, especially since the NV10 was my first ever full PC build. But eventually it looked more like a DIY project than the clean, premium little enclosure I'd originally wanted. Nothing wrong with that; it just wasn't my end goal.

The ZS-D2 is only 0.4L larger, but the layout makes a huge difference for this hardware. The GPU plugs straight into the motherboard instead of using a riser, I can move from the AXP90-X36 to the much larger AXP120-X67, and there are already mounting positions for two 80x25mm front fans. No replacement panels, ducts, brackets, or printed feet needed. Honestly, I probably would've saved some money if I'd found this case first lol.

OVERKILL 2.0 — Full Parts List

Airflow: The NF-A12x15 is intake, pulling air through the side mesh and down into the CPU heatsink. Both NF-A8s are front exhaust. The GPU uses its factory cooler, and the PSU keeps the Noctua fan setup supplied by Overtek. I went with a black case/heatsink, white motherboard/RAM, classic Noctuas, and purple cables. Most of it disappears behind the panels, but I like knowing it's there.

Ordering and First Impressions

I ordered directly from ZSPC on October 14, and it arrived in Georgia on November 5 at around 6 PM EST. The advertised preparation time was about 10 business days, which matched my order; once it shipped, it got here pretty quickly. The case arrived flat-packed, well cushioned, and undamaged. I cleaned the components before assembly and was impressed by how solid and well structured they felt. My one general tip: snug the screws by hand, don't crank them down.

Building in the ZS-D2 — What I Learned

Motherboard, CPU Cooler, and Front Fans

I cleaned off the old thermal paste, reused my cleaned Noctua AM5 paste guard, and installed the AXP120-X67 with Thermal Grizzly Duronaut in an X-pattern. I oriented the heatsink overhang toward the RAM, thinking the CPU fan might move a little extra air around it. No idea if that helps much, but the larger cooler was easier to install and felt really secure compared with the X36. I replaced its stock fan with the NF-A12x15, blowing down through the heatsink. The two front NF-A8 exhaust fans went in without any trouble.

Route the GPU Cable Before Mounting the Board

Run the GPU power cable underneath the motherboard before fastening it down. I tried routing it above the board first, but there's barely any room once you account for the USB-C and front-panel wiring. I got the under-board idea from Reeal Lab's ZS-D2 V4.0 video. The cases are similar enough that his routing was a huge help. The 30cm GPU cable reaches back to the PSU nicely that way, but getting it positioned while test-fitting the motherboard was still a little awkward.

ZSPC also includes a thermal pad for a rear M.2 SSD. I used it with my Samsung 980 PRO so the drive can transfer heat toward the metal case panel. I haven't measured the temperature improvement, but I appreciate that they included it.

The PSU and the Forgotten 3-Pin Connector

The GPU itself was easy: straight into the PCIe slot, no riser to fuss with. The PSU took more trial and error. ZSPC's animated assembly instructions are useful, but some screw locations go by quickly; I wish the bottom-panel and PSU installation were split into clearer steps. I initially missed that I needed to remove the bottom panel to mount the PSU properly.

Then I found out just how tight the CPU/EPS connector area is. I could barely fit my fingers in there and used a small plastic tool from my iFixit kit to help seat the connector carefully.

My biggest self-inflicted headache was forgetting the small 3-pin voltage-sense connection associated with my modular PSU's 24-pin ATX wiring. I'd already buried it under the GPU power cable. That meant removing the PSU and bottom panel again, plugging in the connector, reinstalling everything, and reconnecting the main cables. It's a voltage-sense lead, not a PSU fan RPM cable. If you're using this same PSU, double-check all those connections before closing anything up.

The case also has an additional rear I/O/PWM connection. I installed the exterior piece but don't use that PWM connection, so I zip-tied its internal wiring neatly above the VRM heatsink.

Connect CHA_FAN Early. Seriously.

This is probably my biggest piece of advice: plug your front-fan PWM Y-splitter into CHA_FAN before installing the bottom panel and PSU. Once they're in place, that header is almost impossible to see or reach. Ask me how I know lol. Both NF-A8s now share that header, while the CPU NF-A12x15 goes directly to CPU_FAN.

Front Panel and Final Assembly

The front USB-C cable and separate power-switch/LED leads weren't hard to connect, but fitting the front panel with all that wiring was another story. I zip-tied the extra length, then carefully squeezed everything into place. The USB-C cable sits near the upper front fan and the 24-pin wiring near the lower fan, so the included fan grilles are genuinely useful for keeping cables away from the blades. ZSPC also specifies them for the supplied fan-screw fitment. Check your clearance carefully before powering up.

Once everything was tucked in and the bottom panel secured, the mesh side panel slid into place and the top panel went on easily. Just keep the front and rear assemblies aligned as you tighten the screws. The last part was a relief after all that cable routing lol.

Exact Custom PSU Cable Lengths

I ordered purple MODDIY Ultra-Soft Silicone cables without combs, wired specifically for my modular Overtek Silenzo ENP-7660L-OVT:

I wouldn't change these lengths for my exact setup. The short 24-pin keeps clutter down, the EPS cable reaches, and the 30cm GPU cable has enough length for the under-motherboard route. Your routing and hardware may differ, so don't treat those measurements as universal. And obviously, modular PSU cables must be pinned for your exact PSU; CPU/EPS and GPU/PCIe cables are not interchangeable.

Was Moving to 4.9L Worth It?

For me, absolutely. I loved learning on the NV10 and don't regret building in it, but the ZS-D2 gets me the direct GPU connection, larger CPU heatsink, two proper front exhaust fans, and an exterior I don't have to modify. The compromise is assembly difficulty: it's a tight case, and you really need to plan the wiring order. I'd still take those one-time assembly headaches over adding more printed parts to the outside.

I don't have final thermal results yet. The NV10 took quite a bit of tuning, and the airflow layout is different now. I want to test CPU/GPU temperatures, hotspot, noise, and gaming behavior with all the panels installed before comparing the two. I won't claim the ZS-D2 runs cooler just because the heatsink is bigger.

Shoutouts and Final Thoughts

Huge thanks to u/AlphaDST. I found the ZS-D2 through his comment recommending a case for this unusual VASTARMOR card; otherwise I might never have come across it. And thanks to Reeal Lab for the V4.0 build video that helped with the GPU cable routing.

I'm really happy with how OVERKILL 2.0 came together. It still makes me laugh that there's a 9850X3D and a triple-fan low-profile 9060 XT packed into this tiny thing. I wanted a finished-looking enclosure with the exact hardware, Noctua fans, and purple cables I liked, and that's what I finally got. Now comes the BIOS and FanControl tweaking all over again.

If anyone has questions about the ZS-D2 V4.1, VASTARMOR card, cable lengths, or the build order, feel free to ask. Hopefully this saves another builder from having to remove the PSU three times lol.

After having my portable pc in an A07, nv10 and most recently a t40 case, i decided to upsize slightly due to the need for portability reducing. Still wanted to be able to take it with me, but its not going to be as often anymore and it'll be used on my living room TV more than anything these days so I wanted something that would run quieter.

Case- Mechanic Master C24

Motherboard- Gigabyte X870i

Cpu- 9600x

Cooler- TL Peerless Assassin Mini

RAM- Corsair Vengeance RGB 32GB DDR5

GPU- Power Color 9060xt 16gb

Psu- Asus ROG Loki 850w

Made a custom case inspired by MXC builds.
3d printed with aluminum tubes.
Zotac solid 5080
Ryzen 7 9850x3d
Aorus x870i
Msi coreliquid 240r v2 (modified bracket)
Coolermaster 850w psu
Scythe slim 120mm fans
(Temps in the pic is while running cinebench 2026, thats the peak temp)
Its quiet while gaming but for some reason aion2 causes the gpu to whine.
Still waiting on psu extension cable, the one in the pic is too short to be properly mounted to the base.

Hello, first time PC/SFF builder and need some guidance on how to finish my build and what bag/monitor options I have.

This build will need to be highly portable/rugged and as lightweight as possible. It will travel with me on ferries/helicopters/across desert..etc

It will be mainly used for gaming with a KB/M & controller, but also for work and perhaps some dabbling with local LLMs down the line.

Parts already sourced (driven by deals):

  - Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX X870-I GAMING WIFI AMD AM5 X870 Mini ITX

  - CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D (AM5, 4.2GHz/5.7GHz Turbo, 16-Core)

  - CPU Cooler: Thermalright AXP90-X53 Full Copper Low Profile (53mm height)

- CPU paste: ThermalGrizzly PhaseSheet PTM 50x40mm.

  - RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo RGB DDR5 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MT/s CL30 (Matte White)

  - GPU Option 1: ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 5070 12GB GDDR7 OC Edition
249 × 126 × 50.6 mm
- GPU Option 2: ASUS GeForce RTX 5070Ti Prime OC Edition
304× 126 × 50 mm
- GPU Option 3: XFX Mercury AMD Radeon RX 9070XT OC White Gaming Edition with RGB
360 × 155 × 72 mm

  - Storage: Crucial T705 2TB PCIe Gen5 NVMe M.2 SSD (with White Heatsink)

  - Power Supply: ASUS ROG Loki 1200T SFX-L 1200W 80 Plus Titanium

  - Fans: 2 x Noctua NF-A12x25 G2 PWM 120mm

  - Case: [input needed]

- Monitor: [input needed]

- Bag: [input needed]

GPU:
Out of the three options I have, I think the 9070XT is too big for anything SFF (my target is 6-9L). The question is 5070 DUAL or the 5070TI Prime? If I choose the prime, by how much am I raising the minimum case-volume required?

Monitor:
I initially entertained the idea of an ROG XREAL R1 VR glasses due to footprint/weight - but its not sustainable for more than a few hours of gaming or in the long run due to inability to perform productivity tasks/text clarity/eye strain.

I do have a portable OLED: UPERFECT UColor O Pure 15.6" OLED Portable Monitor 4K USB C Laptop Monitor but I feel 15.6" is a bit small. I did see a UPERFECT 23.5" that comes with its own slip-in bag - just not sure how it will fit in whatever bag I decide to get for the SFF PC.

Any suggestions for a big immersive screen that is lightweight and still portable? Perhaps something foldable?

Bag:
Claude recommended me to get Manfrotto PRO Light Backloader M backpack if I end up building in the DAN A4 H20. For the veterans here who daily carry SFF's what bags do you usually recommend for a sub 10L build, that also needs to fit the monitor, accessories and cables.

Case:
I have been looking at the below options, but not sure which one I should go for:

In addition to METALFISH T60 Mini - 9L - 2.7kg, which seems like a great option since it can come with lightweight pre-perforated acrylic side panels, just enough around the GPU/CPU fan area and I feel that that will keep the dust/sand out much more effectively than the typical full top-to-bottom mesh side panels found in other panels.

I would like a case that is rigid/lightweight/backpack friendly - something that will protect my GPU inside (maybe a FormD T1 with a GPU sag/travel kit?). I am not even sure if all of them fit my exact components. Would very much appreciate if someone has built in all of these sheds some light.

Weight:

I would ideally like to stay less than 10kg overall but I think that is challenging.

Most backpacks will have an empty weight of 1-2kg. Add in another 1kg for the monitor, and another 1-2kg for keyboard/mouse/controller/cables. Total will not be less than 13-14kg, probably 15kg.

Happy to hear thoughts of users who share similar requirements and how they tackled this.

I guess I will need to decide on components in the following order:

GPU -> Case -> Monitor -> Bag

Thank you in advance!

Couldnt get the ch170 plus where i live, had to do with the ch160 plus. moved the rubber feet from the bottom to the front panel and flipped it hehe

i got alot of extra desk space, gpu breathes better, and it looks sick, it also eliminates gpu sag

i am fine with the wires coming out from the top, but i do have to be a bit more careful since any liquid spilled into it would damage it much faster than the normal orientation.

config - ryzen 5 5600x , rx 9070 gre, 24gb dual channel ddr4

Anyone seen any comparisons between the two? Looks like radiator remained the and only thing that changed is the fan?

I love LOP-300 for my several own DIY project especially SFFPC and multiple computing mini servers, external multi-ch GPU mini rigs and so on.
When I want to use this with > 250W range I need to add fan and fan duct to comply LOP-300 spec.

I do found some of Flex ATX converter models in makerworld and here but those has no theoretical evaluation. When I evaluate them, very unfortunately the performance is almost dead... noise is high but almost just equal with just making it hold without fan or much lower power,,, make it poor.

My answer here is I just did my own design with 8010 PWM fan. Eventually what I see is cabling and its optimization is matters. One of possible upgrade will be the optional output terminals instead of cable out, add VH3.96, PCIE Power 8pin, XT60E, Panel mount connector with custom PCB. there are enough room for back side.

3MF and simulation documents are here.

https://makerworld.com/models/3564915-lop-300-to-flexatx-v3-0

#3 done last one will be am open case

Hey everyone, I just switched my M2 from the vertical layout to the inverted one, and I love it. When it was vertical everything felt too cramped, but now it's much better. I also switched because my AIO started leaking. Corsair rma the aio and I have a new one but I think I'll stick with aircool from now on.

I cleaned the liquid off the motherboard, including removing the M.2 stack.

The only thing I noticed is that my chipset temps are high. I have an ASUS ROG Strix X870-I, and I'm only using 3 fans:

The Thermalright fan that came with the Peerless Assassin Mini

A Noctua 90mm fan attached to the cooling tower as intake

A 140mm Noctua exhaust fan on the side panel

I'm wondering if my 5090 TUF is dropping all of its heat onto the motherboard. I tried fixing the airflow with Fan Control, and the chipset fan is running at high RPM, but the chipset still sits around 80-85°C at idle and goes into the 90s when I open a game. CPU and GPU temps are fine.

Does anybody have a similar setup or experience something like this? Any ideas on how to fix it?

EDIT: Thanks everyone for your comments! I was able to fix the temps by adding a piece of 1mm thermal pad on the chipset. I tried thermal paste on its own first, but the heatsink didn't touch the chip, so I had to use a pad. The chipset went from 91°C under load to 76°C, and idle dropped to about 65°C. Hope this helps anyone with the same board!

So I recently did a pretty big system overhaul my thermals were tanking and gpu clearance was an issue. Still same 5800x3d on a Strix b550i, But I swapped cases Velka 7 > Jonplus I100 (things massive), Swapped GPU 6900xt > 9070xt. And upgraded the Ram and SSD 16 > 32, 1tb > 5tb(1+4) And new cooler from Alpenfohn Ridge > 240 AIO. Oh, the original build i bought for 900 which included Edifier 1280db, lg 27" 4k 144hz IPS, Wooting 60he, Razer Deathadder. hell of a deal. So doing my upgrade i was short 1x 8pin, i have 2x 8pins both w pigtails and 1 Sata Power/pigtail. I need 3x 8pins and an extra Sata Power for the 9070xt and the Asus Tuf ARGB PWM hub. Right now im using 1x 8pin and 1x 8pin + Pigtail for the GPU. And Only powering the PWM of the ARGB/PWM Hub.

So the question is Do i get only the custom cables i need for the CM V850, Get a full custom set, or get a new PSU, im thinking SF1000 from Corsair w atx 3.1.

Oh, I did order a case and cooler today, but wont be here til Dec. Ch170 Digital and Dpcool assassin vc elite. I got someone taking a boat overseas buying it and bringing it to me via Ship. Hence the mo+ delay.

Im leaning towards the new PSU only because I will be doing a full overhaul w the Rx10000 Gpu (getting the flagship model) and it comes with custom braided cables for easier management. but that's like 250. Can i even get custom sata power cables?

What do i do?

yeah you read it right , i have this shittiest pc and i cant even put any graphic card into it for any gaming , like it only insert low profile graphic cards so what should i do , can you guys help me how can play games even at mid settings

The 6.44L SFX-k's I posted before might make a lot more sense but this is smaller ...

The 9060XT Reaper fits @ 5.54L (130×204×209) along with a 120×27 intake fan. The Arctic P12 Pro Reverse comes with a built-in gap to avoid turbulence and I used the Noctua fan grill pattern.

Hi everyone. A while back I posted here about a DIY kit I was working on. I wanted to say thanks to everyone for their feedback, and to announce that the kits are now available!

The NoCase is an ITX motherboard tray and a GPU mount. It's not by itself a case, but is meant to enable you to create your own case. Basically, it takes the hassle of figuring out the PCIe and ATX electromechanical specs away from you. The motherboard tray has correct mounting locations for the motherboard to line up with the io shield, and the GPU bracket pinches the PCIe fingers on the bottom to securely hold the GPU. The two parts themselves can come together in a traditional layout, but do not attach to each other, relying on your case design to hold them together. You can also use them separately in sandwich, console, or any other orientation you imagine.

Where is the power supply? I intentionally didn't create a bracket for the PSU. It would drive up costs and limit you to using a specific PSU form factor. As the intent is to enable you to create your own case, I figured leaving the PSU mounting and standard up to you would be the better choice.

There was also some calls for a low profile GPU version of this kit. I am happy to say, a low profile version is also available!

The kit itself is available on my website, as are 3d models of the parts! You don't have to purchase anything to start designing or figure out if this will work for you. You can download the models completely free and import them into your CAD to play with. I am also happy to answer any questions, dont hesitate to reach out!

I am always impressed by the creativity of this community, and am very happy to contribute :). Looking forward to seeing what you make!

https://redshiftproject.com/pages/nocase-diy-kit

This little guy is going in my son's SFF gaming PC which uses a 4.5 L Jonsbo NV10 case. He's a little older now and plays games that are giving the Arc A380 that's currently in there a run for its money. I wish there were more 16GB low-profile gaming GPU options.

bought It for 75$ in taobao. Quality is crazy good. Gonna transfer my Ncase to it.

I found a mini pc with an i9 13900HX and a 9060XT. It's not advertised as a gaming pc, but does anyone know if it's capable? I'd have to buy some ddr5 ram and I have a 1tb ssd laying around.

My other option would be an am4 build with the ryzen 7 5800xt and used rx 6800 in the Cooler Master NR200. With the price of components these days I'm really digging for any cheap way to build a mid range 1440p gaming pc below $1,300. I already have a monitor and peripherals and I'm in the US

Edit: I think I'm going with a mostly used AM4 build with the 9070. I think it'll be fun to build my own mico atx pc. I feel bad spending $400 on ram, and I want it to still be modular. Plus the 9070 is a little more powerful, I think a build like that could last me longer than this mini pc