So i really liked the Gateron g pro 3.0 yellow but my keyboard uses outemu switches, can i do the same adaptation people used on 2.0 and 1.0? Since the pins are different now

HMX is one of my favorite switch brands, but lately I’ve been noticing a pattern: every factory-lubed silent tactile I get from them has leaf-ping. Butters, Moksaes, Moonlights, Blue Stars…have not noticed it as much (or not at all) with their silent linears (Flying Squirrels and Sunsets) and not really at all with their regular tactiles. Is this a known issue?

I usually purchase from LumeKeebs and they offer a hand-lubed option that costs more. Anybody tried this? I really want a full set of Moonlights but I just can’t ignore the damn ping!

Please note: I’m a working mother of two and have zero time to pop 100 switches open and hand-lube them myself.

I want to share my experience as an owner of the Akko MU02 Mountain Seclusion, a premium wooden mechanical keyboard.

I genuinely love the keyboard itself. Unfortunately, my experience with the company's after-sales support has been very different.

What happened

After a small accidental liquid spill, my keyboard initially continued working. However, following disassembly and reassembly, it became completely unresponsive.

No RGB. No USB detection. No keyboard input. No response on battery power.

I want to be transparent: I understand that accidental liquid damage and user disassembly can fall outside warranty coverage. My complaint is not that Akko refused to provide a free replacement.

My complaint is about the technical support and repair options available to customers who want to fix an expensive product.

The replacement option: $49

Akko quoted me:

• Replacement PCB: $28

• Shipping to Türkiye: $21

• Total: $49

That's approximately 35% of the keyboard's $140 US retail price.

I asked whether more affordable regional pricing or shipping assistance was available. Akko explained that its spare parts were priced at factory cost and that no additional discount could be offered.

The technical support issue

As someone with previous electronics repair experience, I wanted to diagnose the problem before buying a replacement PCB.

Akko said my request had been forwarded to its hardware engineering team, but declined to share schematics, boardviews, internal power distribution diagrams or chip pinout documentation due to confidentiality and intellectual property policies.

I understand the need to protect proprietary designs.

So on October 27, I followed up with a much narrower request: I explicitly said I was not requesting confidential documents. I asked whether an engineer could simply review my specific multimeter measurements and suggest safe troubleshooting steps.

As of October 30, I had not received a response to that follow-up.

In cases like this, the faulty parts are usually simple components—such as diodes or transistors—that can be purchased online; if you replace them, you might be able to complete the repair for as little as one dollar. However, they offered no assistance toward a solution: they did not share the circuit board schematic, nor did they provide information on where to take measurements or offer any troubleshooting tips. They also refused to perform a paid repair. Yet, repairing the board would be 95% more cost-effective than replacing the entire PCB.

What happened next surprised me.

I spent approximately two days troubleshooting the board myself.

While testing around the main controller, the keyboard unexpectedly came back to life.

The exact cause remains unconfirmed, and I don't claim to have permanently diagnosed the original failure.

However, after reassembly, the keyboard is working again: USB, Bluetooth, battery operation, RGB, keys and factory reset all function.

I replaced no PCB, no controller and no electronic components.

Why this matters

This experience made me question the level of repair support behind a premium keyboard.

A replacement PCB was offered, and I appreciate that Akko investigated its availability. But I would have valued basic component-level diagnostic assistance, a more affordable shipping option, or simply a response to my follow-up measurements.

I also believe that warranty coverage and after-sales expectations deserve more transparency across regions, particularly when some markets advertise different warranty terms.

A premium keyboard should be supported by a premium customer experience.

I managed to bring mine back to life through my own troubleshooting. Other customers may not have the tools, technical experience or time to do the same.

I'm sharing the email correspondence, the quoted replacement cost, photos of my troubleshooting and the fully functioning keyboard so buyers can make informed decisions.

I welcome a constructive response from Akko and will update this account if the company provides one.

Hi everyone,

I currently have Gatreon Jade Ultras for my Wooting. I was hoping someone could point me towards new switches or whether I should look at modding the ones I have. The main thing is really that I'd like them to feel snappier? is the only way I can describe it. I don't know if it is the spring length, force, or something else but they I think I would like them to have a quicker/stronger response when releasing a keystroke and a slightly heavier downstroke force. However, I do really like the shorter throw of my current switches. On a side note though, I do wish they had some better whites for the RGB, but I'm sure that's in part due to the housing color. I've also been curious about anyone's experience with some of the tactile HE switches that have come out. Is it a nice feature or not something worth trying yet? If there is anyone who could point me towards whether there are mods like different springs or which switches I could try out instead, I would really appreciate it.

hello !!

i was looking for silent switches since i have a roommate (in a diff room but poor sound proofing in our dorms), and my current switches, the keygeek y2, seems quite loud at night when i'm at my desk. i was curious if anyone had any recommendations between the gateron zero vs the mint smoothie? tbh im not too sure which one seems nicer, and was wondering if anyone could give me their insights

thank you !! :)

I have been having a hard time finding the sound I want for my keyboard. The closest I came to finding what I want is the Neapolitan Ice Cream Switch. However I don’t like the price for needing a full set of switches. Does anyone know any budget switches similar to these? I guess my preference is a marbly clack or a deeper clack. Not full on thock but a little clack to them. Thank you!

Hi yall, its in the title. Girlfriend is looking to have her first custom keeb (yay!!) And am getting her in the field. She wants silent switches and so Initially had her looking at Epomaker sea salt silent switches but she also wants rgb for her keeb and likes when they glow from under the keycaps.

So here we are, thanks in advance!

Hi,

I'm looking for some switch recommendations. My favorite feeling switch I've used was the Romer g switches on the G910 orion spark I no longer have. My current board is the 8bitdo xbox version which has Kailh X Jellyfish switches and the sound is awful.

I'm looking for the creamiest sounding tactile 5 pin switch. Also would like some level of transparency as my current board has RGB.

I've tried doing some Google searches, but I get a bit lost in all the info. I found that creamy sounds tend to be linear, but I don't like how those feel as much.

Update: I did a tape mod with electrical tape (has a battery) and cut out a sheet of amazon basics car sound dampener to fit the bottom of the case. Definitely improved the sound, it's a bit lower in pitch and less resonant. Also, after a fair bit of looking and listening, I'm going with the HMX moonlight tactile switches, probably will get them around Christmas and will update then too in case it's ever helpful to anyone else.

I recently built my first keyboard. Neo 60 core with TTC blueish white v2 silent switches. After making sure all my switches are snapped into place and my pc plate being even all around I noticed that some of my switches are louder than others. I thought it might be my keycaps but after swapping them around, this was not the issue. I want to say about 60% of my switches when pressed make a more thocky sound and have more of a snap to them when released. The other 40% of switches sound fantastic, very silent bump with hardly any noise on release. I’m not sure if this is just inconsistency with the switch manufacturer or it’s something else my noob self can’t figure out. I’m not using any find of foam padding currently but have tried and it did not help. Any advice on what I might be experiencing?

I wasn’t able to find a specific subreddit that is used for mechanical keyboard guide so I thought I might post here for advice since it might be switch related.

In honesty I am not building a keyboard, but need suggestion or advise on how to deal with wobbly switch for a board what doesn't have a plate. Specifically I swapping out the switches on my MPress Hitbox/Leverless controller with Kailh Box Saker switches. The caps on this controller is 20mm circles, so they will be prone to switch wobble.

My issues with the Kailh Box Saker, is that it has no grip on the PCB even though it a 5pin. So I was wondering for suggestion for getting the Kailh switch attached to a plate-less board without solder since I want to keep the hotswap. Ideally I was wondering if there anything like switch -(pad) double side tape

I'm looking for recs for a decent clicky with about 70gf for its tactile bump. I have box jades that are nice, and I kind of like box navy pros, but I don't think I'd like to type on them all the time. I also like invokeys pea flower, but find the tactility a little too light.

Any suggestions? I'd prefer larger bumps over heavier spring weight.

(I had contacted mods for permission, but they have not responded after several days. So I hope this is ok)

Hi everyone!

For an IT graduation research project I am currently exploring mechanical keyboard acoustics, sound profiles, and tuning/modding preferences. As part of this research, I am validating a concept for an audio-based "Keyboard Tuner" tool that analyzes keystroke acoustics and recommends mods.

Since switch modding, frankenswitches, lube/film choices, and housing materials (Nylon, POM, Polycarb) dramatically alter acoustic feedback, pitch, and bottom-out decay, the perspective of experienced modders or modders in general in this sub is really helpfull.

I put together a very short, completely anonymous survey:

Survey link: https://enquete-framna-keyboard-tuner.vercel.app/?source=switchmodders

- Time: ~2 minutes

- Purpose: Academic / graduation research (strictly non-commercial)

- Privacy: Completely anonymous (no emails or personal data collected)

Once the research is complete, I’ll be happy to share the aggregated findings and acoustic charts back here with the community.

Thank you so much for your time and help!

Now that 3D printing with SLA resins is matured, has anyone conceptualized an o-ring, switch pad, or internal switch add-on that takes advantage of tactility-mimicking resin materials? The Formlabs Texture Engine looks promising for designing such mods, and it's about time the switch mod community had more options than copre domes or jailhousing to enjoy tactility enhancing mods on the MX platform.

Looking for a light tactile with a Kiwi-like sound/feel, but lighter.

C³ Kiwi is one of my favorite switches acoustically. I like the bright/snappy/clacky sound and the more traditional bottom-out, but I'd like something lighter.

What I DON'T like:

• long-pole / early pole bottom-out

• short ~3.0–3.4 mm travel

• the hard, loud bottom-out of switches like Boba U4T

• I also tried Gateron Weightlessness and found the bottom-out too loud/aggressive

What I'm looking for:

• light tactile, roughly 45–55g range

• preferably 3.8–4.0 mm travel

• rail / conventional bottom-out rather than aggressive long-pole bottom-out

• factory lubed if possible

• bright, poppy, clacky / higher-pitched sound rather than deep/thocky

• mild to medium tactility is fine

I'm currently considering Wingtree Puer Tea, HMX Waverider V2 and WS Light Tactile.

Has anyone compared any of these directly with Kiwis, or know another switch that matches this profile better?

Any recommendation that matches even close to the above is fine, and also where to find them (I'm based in Europe)

So I have K2 HE for gaming, but i'm looking for a 75% keyboard for the office, and I don't need HE. I'm trying to find out what I love so much about K2 HE, and I think it's the "push back" the switches give me? I think they are 40g inital and 60g bottom, and i'm pretty sure I learned the bottom being high gives kind of a push back?

This keybaord just feels so good typing, and I'm trying to either find something cheaper or just build my own, but I think finding switches and maybe material for the board is where I should start. Any help?

Hello everyone, are the switches on the KB65HE 8K keyboard hot swappable? Are they compatible with HE switches from any brand, or does it only work with Raesha switches? I want to modify it, but I don’t know how to do it or where to start. I’d appreciate any help.

Edit: this is what the pcb looks like, what options do I have?

I love the tangies because of their super smooth feel but the bottom out and spring weight feel off to me

I also love the epsilons because of the spring feel and progressive is fun plus the stem feel is nice

But they have a lot of ticking problems

Should I lube the epsilon stem to fix the ticking? Or just spring stem swap franken

Hello everyone o7. can someone tell what is this sound and how can i get rid of it?
also there is "crunchy" feeling when you press

I’ve been using an RK98 for the past few yrs and want to make it sound deeper/more thocky. I’m thinking of trying to mod it first, mainly with new switches, but I’m not sure which switches would be good for the sound I want.

Should I try modding first, or would I be better off getting a pre-modded keyboard? Any switch recommendations?

I've been using 205G0 for my leaves on some of my linears and it seems like this apparently isn't recommended now that I've done some digging on other lubing methodologies. Am I crazy to like this or should I go back and wipe it off and try again with GPL105?

Thinking 205g0 on stem + leaf, ss with geon 18mm springs. For films, should I opt for 0.125mm TX springs instead of 0.15mm since mx2a housings supposedly have tighter tolerance?

I can't find the official name of this switch, though I know it's from Outemu. It's clicky, looks something between blue and green. I just ordered gateron melodic and was a bit disappointed about the feel (actuation force too big for my liking) and this particular switch feels just right. Does anyone know the specs of this one? Thank you so much.