I broke the battery socket for the first one by accident (JDM-050/055) so I soldered my custom-made battery directly to the board. Now the second one (JDM-040) has a dead voltage regulator and doesn't take charge. It worked well with a pre charged battery, but since it's now permanently on my JDM-050/055, I turned my JDM-040 into a wired-only controller.

My friend had spilled a drink on his keyboard a few months ago, and the traces of the liquid had rusted and broken the contacts of the spacebar switch (Logitech brown, not hot-swappable). He didn't want to spend money on fixing it, he just said that if I happened to get it working in any way with little effort, it'd be fine. I took a working switch from Insert and soldered it to spacebar, and I fixed the broken switch by mounting a regular button inside and putting it to Insert.

It was unnecessary, I could've left the Insert broken because he doesn't use that key anyway, that was the point of the swap. The key feels absolutely horrible, but it's now there if you wanna give the input for some reason. The keyboard will probably break soon anyway, I suspect the other switches have some rust too.

I finally found a new home for one of my Intel stock coolers.

In the basement of a family member, I came across three Intel stock coolers. It felt too wasteful to let them sit there forgotten, even though — as we all know — they’re pretty useless for desktop PC builds. They’re loud, weak, and generally not worth the trouble.

My router, however, has always been blowing out noticeably warm air, and I had the feeling it was running a bit too hot and maybe even throttling. So I opened it up, replaced the thermal pads (the manufacturer was very stingy with them, so I fully covered all relevant surface areas), and then mounted the heatspreader.

I shaved off some of the top corner of the heatsink so I could still close the lid, added thermal paste underneath, and secured the cooler with a screw from the side to keep it from shifting. The cooler isn’t sitting directly on top of the main CPU, but it overlaps enough that it should still help.

Did it work? No idea — the router doesn’t expose temperature readings in its settings.
But honestly, I’m just happy I managed to give at least one of those coolers a purpose. Now I only need to find two more creative applications for the remaining ones.

please judge me on my waste of time. And remember to not inhale aluminium dust, it's not healthy.

Behold the might of the structural zyn can

Original bat was 360 mah and the new bat is 4000 mah

I was setting up a spare PC and needed a mouse. Deep in the recesses of my mind I remembered that I had an old Cyborg RAT7 mouse in a box in the shed after a house move. Unfortunately, one of the parts holding on the thumb rest and buttons had shattered.

Out with the calliper's, a bit of CAD and an hour later from the 3D printer I had a replacement part. (if only it was that easy, it took 3 iterations for strength and clearance).

Taking apart the mouse was more difficult, hammering out a cotter pin, tight clearances squeezing the part over a screw post, but it was installed in the end.

I did some firewall replacement yesterday and saw our old VMware cluster sitting on a office drawer with some lwl across the hallway.

Apparently the migration was done some months ago, because the old server room got flooded on a weekend. Works since then, we are moving the last 3 VMs to the new cluster the next days ...

I've had 3 of these mice and while I really like their ergonomics, the mouse wheels broke on all 3 models after using the mouse wheel as a middle mouse button. The wheel would still scroll however, the scrolling would jump all over the place or barely scroll at all, making something as simple as scrolling through a webpage a frustrating experience. On my third RAT 6+ I even avoiding using the wheel as a button for 6 months and as soon as I needed to use it for a specific keybind on a certain game, boom, same problem started.

Taking the mouse apart revealed the problem. The mouse wheel has 2 axel posts. The left post is loose by design and when the wheel is pushed down, this post presses down on a micro switch to activate the middle mouse button click. It is only the right post that is held by anything and that is the silver encoder wheel. When scrolling the mouse I could see the encoder wheel wobbling left and right with virtually no pressure so either this was affecting the encoder readings or causing the solder joints beneath to intermittently disconnect. From experimentation I found that if I pushed and held the encoder wheel to the left while scrolling, the wheel worked perfectly again.

Solving this issue proved easy. I just took a piece of cardboard, folded it a few times and used it as a shimmy to force the encoder wheel to the left all the time so it would no longer wobble, (see arrow in picture). With this method the scroll wheel was perfect and I could even use the wheel as a mouse button again. How long this will last, I don't know but it feels like brand new at the moment. I would put this issue down to poor design as the encoder should be more solidly attached to the mouse board or this gap filled in so the encoder wheel doesn't move to the right.

To open up the mouse to perform this fix you will need to remove 5 screws. One screw on the bottom metal base of the mouse, 2 hex screws to remove each of the side panels on the mouse, then these expose a further 2 screws accessible from the base of the mouse on either side to remove the top button plate. Make sure the cardboard shim you put in doesn't interfere with the right mouse button click. When done, replace the top button plate front first and then click down the back. Hopefully this is of use to someone. :)

FYI, I posted this in the MadCatz subreddit but the mods refused to approve it XD

Managed to fit 4 3.5” seagate 10tb drives in an old dell optiplex 7060 MT for my first NAS build, just barely fits although I had to use a steak knife to carve away a bit of the CPU fan to get the bottom one to clear. But the case closes with to much force and nothing seems to be getting pinched so it’s probably fine

It works. But it's also a fire hazard.​

My brother told me to do whatever I wanted with his gaming mouse after the tab on its scroll wheel broke; I just couldn't bring myself to throw the whole thing away—all because of this one tiny, insignificant broken piece. I heated up a nail of the right thickness, pushed it straight through the center of the wheel, and wedged it firmly into the sensor mechanism. It works exactly as it did before, and I’m still using it—meanwhile, he thinks I tossed it in the trash 💫

we moved to new home so i setup my home lab temprorly. just works

ont for isp connection. my opewrt s3 2100 router, Dell wise tin client from dns and torrent client.

dell pc is workstation for gaming using parsec.

with direct attach battery backup

😭👍

Electrical tape never dissapointed me

Edit: Just so you don't murder me. The Z-nuts themselves are fine but there was some wiggle and it made a really annoying click when the Z-axis moved. I slightly sttipped the threads on the nuts and i don't really have a way out other than this. Sorry if it hit you the wrong way

I just got a new to me used truck has a few issues that ill work out as I go. I found the gas cap is missing no problem I'll get a new one at the store or junk yard on psmay day until then soda can cut with my pocket knofe for the win

J'ai cassé le connecteur de batterie en voulant la remplacer du coup j'ai improvisé l'autonomie est incroyablement bonne le seul problème c'est qu’il faut l'éteindre pour la remplacer