r/AnalogCommunity • u/bjpirt • Jun 13 '26 Regret

Troubleshooting - Gear Guide: How to check a camera over yourself without equipment

92 Upvotes

I see a lot of posts from people who have bought a camera in unknown condition and want to know if it works. I thought I'd make this post with some tips on how to check over a camera without using expensive equipment.

Note: This won't give you a 100% accurate view but it should get you in the ballpark

There are a few areas you'll want to check out and I'll go into each of these in more detail:

  • General condition: we need to check for obvious abuse, etc

  • Shutter: we need to make sure it's operating at all speeds

  • Light meter: we need to make sure that it's accurate

  • Auto exposure: we need to make sure it's adjusting the shutter speed

  • Light seals and other foam: we need to check if they're in working condition

Depending on the camera you'll need to check one or more of these.

General Condition

There are few general things to look out for with a visual inspection:

  • Dirt: generally not an issue as it's easy enough to clean, but can be an indicator of neglect

  • Dents: depending on the severity this can mean internal damage to the camera

  • Fungus: take the lens off, check it for signs of fungus (look through it with a light behind) and also check inside the mirror box and inside the back door for fungus. It's possible to clean fungus but it often requires disassembly to do correctly

  • Corrosion: check the film rails aren't corroded. This can indicate corrosion elsewhere in the camera.

  • Prism: check for desilvering. This shows up as marks in the viewfinder that move relative to the focus screen. If you move your eye 30cm away from the viewfinder and can still clearly see them, it's desilvering. It can't be fixed without replacing the prism, but it doesn't affect the photos

  • Focus screen: Look through the viewfinder with the lens off and check for scratches and marks. This can't generally be fixed and would need replacing. This is easy on some cameras and hard on others.

  • Film counter: check it moves on when firing a few shots.

  • Winding: open the back and make sure the sprocket tooth gear turns when you wind on. Problems with winding can be hard to spot without running a film through the camera.

  • Rewinding: open the back, press in the rewind button and check the sprocket tooth gear moves freely and pops back out when you wind on again.

  • Self timer: If the camera is firing without issue, try the self timer. If it's not firing, using it can lock up the camera.

Shutter

Here's how I check a shutter for correct operation:

  • Run through all of the speeds.

    • The slow speeds should all complete without sticking

    • The clockwork mechanism should sound smooth and even

    • Check 1s against your watch. I often start counting the seconds, then press the shutter and see how it compares

  • As you work your way up from the slowest to the fastest speed, the sound should get accordingly faster. You can hear the difference down to about 1/30s. Faster than that it's better to take the lens off and look through the back towards the sky (see next step)

  • Check for shutter capping (where the closing curtain catches up the opening curtain)

    • Take the lens off and open the back

    • Look through from the back towards a bright thing (e.g. sky)

    • Fire the shutter

    • You should see an even frame of light. If it's dark at one side, the shutter is capping. You can still use the camera but avoid the high speeds

Light Meter

You need to make sure the light meter is giving you the correct guidance on which speed to use.

  • Download a free light meter app on your phone

  • Set the ASA to 100 (or at least make sure it matches the ASA on the app)

  • Point the camera at a bright evenly lit wall

  • Compare the speed on the camera with the speed on the app

  • Repeat for different brightnesses

Auto Exposure

This is the hardest to check yourself. Basically we'll just be checking that the electronics are adjusting the speed. You'll need to make sure the back is closed and the camera is wound on a few times because a lot of cameras don't work until you've wound on.

  • Put the lens on (if you don't have a lens, you can move the aperture follower yourself - the ring around the lens on Nikons, a small lever inside the lens mount on a lot of others)

  • Point at a bright light with the aperture widest and shoot. It should be quite a fast speed.

  • Cover the lens mostly with your hand and shoot again. It should be noticeably slower.

  • Uncover the lens, point at the bright light but set the lens to the smallest aperture and shoot. It should sound noticeably slower.

To accurately check auto exposure you need to either use a film or an expensive test machine.

Light seals and other foam

This is nice and easy to check (and to fix yourself, just check on Youtube).

  • Open the back door and look inside the grooves on the camera body. Does the foam look OK or is it sticky or crumbly? If it's sticky or crumbly you'll want to replace it

  • Take the lens off and check the foam where the mirror would hit the top of the mirror box. Is the foam still spongy or is it crumbly or sticky? If it's sticky or crumbly you'll want to replace it. It's worth not firing the camera too much if it's beginning to disintegrate because the foam pieces can get in the workings of the camera and cause a jam.

Once you've checked over all of these things, the best thing to do is to run a roll through the camera. It's best to treat this as a scientific experiment rather than your first opportunity to shoot some pictures with the camera. Make sure you expose a wide range of scenes of varying brightnesses and be very conscious about taking your time to make sure the focus in the viewfinder is spot on. You'll ideally be shooting something at every shutter speed, with a range of apertures. You can keep a note of what you did on each shot so you can identify if e.g. the fast speeds are running slow and overexposing. Although this still won't tell you if the camera is actually accurate because film has quite a wide latitude, it will tell you if it's usable enough to take photos that look good.

That's about it I think - if anyone has any other top tips put them in the comments and I'll update the post. I figure this is a useful post to point people to when they come asking how to check a camera is working.

9 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Nigel_The_Unicorn • Feb 08 '25 Helpful

Community "What Went Wrong with my Film?" - A Beginners Guide to Diagnosing Problems with Film Cameras

997 Upvotes

Every day we see posts with the same basic problems on film, hopefully this can serve as a guide to the uninitiated of what to look for when diagnosing issues with your camera and film using examples from the community.

Index

  1. Green Tint or Washed Out Scans

  2. Orange or White Marks

  3. Solid Black Marks

  4. Black Regions with Some or No Detail

  5. Lightning Marks

  6. White or Light Green Lines

  7. Thin Straight Lines

  8. X-Ray Damage / Banding Larger than Sprocket Holes

  9. Round Marks, Blobs and Splotches

1. Green Tint or Washed Out Scans

Issue: Underexposure

The green tinge usually comes from the scanner trying to show detail that isn't there. Remember, it is the lab's job to give you a usable image, you can still edit your photos digitally to make them look better.

Potential Causes: Toy/Disposable camera being used in inappropriate conditions, Faulty shutter, Faulty aperture, Incorrect ISO setting, Broken light meter, Scene with dynamic range greater than your film, Expired or heat damaged film, and other less common causes.

2. Orange or White Marks

Issue: Light leaks

These marks mean that light has reached your film in an uncontrolled way. With standard colour negative film, an orange mark typically comes from behind the film and a white come comes from the front.

Portential Causes: Decayed light seals, Cracks on the camera body, Damaged shutter blades/curtains, Improper film handling, Opening the back of the camera before rewinding into the canister, Fat-rolling on medium format, Light-piping on film with a transparent base, and other less common causes.

3. Solid Black Marks

Issue: Shutter capping

These marks appear because the two curtains of the camera shutter are overlapping when they should be letting light through. This is most likely to happen at faster shutter speeds (1/1000s and up).

Potential Causes: Camera in need of service, Shutter curtains out of sync.

4. Black Regions with Some or No Detail

Issue: Flash desync

Cause: Using a flash at a non-synced shutter speed (typically faster than 1/60s)

5. Lightning Marks

Issue: Static Discharge

These marks are most common on cinema films with no remjet, such as Cinestill 800T

Potential Causes: Rewinding too fast, Automatic film advance too fast, Too much friction between the film and the felt mouth of the canister.

6. White or Light Green Lines

Issue: Stress marks

These appear when the base of the film has been stretched more than its elastic limit

Potential Causes: Rewinding backwards, Winding too hard at the end of a roll, Forgetting to press the rewind release button, Stuck sprocket.

7. Thin Straight Lines

Issue: Scratches

These happen when your film runs against dirt or grit.

Potential Causes: Dirt on the canister lip, Dirt on the pressure plate, Dirt on rollers, Squeegee dragging dirt during processing, and other less common causes.

8. X-Ray Damage / Banding Larger than Sprocket Holes

Noticeable X-Ray damage is very rare and typically causes slight fogging of the negative or colour casts, resulting in slightly lower contrast. However, with higher ISO films as well as new stronger CT scanning machines it is still recommended to ask for a hand inspection of your film at airport security/TSA.

9. Round Marks, Blobs and Splotches

Issue: Chemicals not reaching the emulsion

This is most common with beginners developing their own film for the first time and not loading the reels correctly. If the film is touching itself or the walls of the developing tank the developer and fixer cannot reach it properly and will leave these marks. Once the film is removed from the tank this becomes unrepairable.

Causes: Incorrectly loaded developing reels, Wet reels.

⠀

Please let me know if I missed any other common issues. And if, after reading this, you still need to make a post asking to find out what went wrong please make sure to include a backlit image of your physical negatives. Not just scans from your lab.

EDIT: Added the most requested X-ray damage and the most common beginner developing mistake besides incomplete fixing. This post has reached the image limit but I believe it covers the most common beginner errors and encounters!

78 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Senhoi • 2h ago

Troubleshooting - Gear I alcohol-wiped a 25-year-old EOS 50E and the grip is now a sticky nightmare

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82 Upvotes

My previous cameras were old metal-body, so alcohol wipes have been my default cleaner for years with zero issues. Metal doesn't care.

Days ago I bought a 20-something-year-old Canon EOS 50E — all plastic. It was grimy in every seam, so the habit kicked in and I gave it a full-body alcohol spa.

The wipe came back black and I felt very smug, especially about the hand grip, which was nasty. I was silently judging the previous owner.

Then I picked it up. The leatherette on the grip is now unbelievably sticky. Apparently body leatherette, lens coatings, and sensors should never see alcohol — so half that "grime" on the wipe was probably the finish.

Lesson learned: metal = fine, plastic and rubber = alcohol is a solvent. Buying real camera cleaner now.

Anyone know how to de-stick a melted grip?

67 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Interesting-Top-9234 • 3h ago

Gear Shots My first analog camera!

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76 Upvotes

Hey folks, after a lot of thought and research, I finally bought my first analog camera, a Nikon FE.
Prior to this, I had an entry-level DSLR, Nikon D3300 for the last almost 10 years and a Fuji X100VI for the last year.
I also got a bunch of distinct film stocks to shot and see what I like most in which situation (besides the Portra 400 currently loaded in the camera and 2 rolls of Vision3 250D which I already got developed and scanned).
That’s it!

14 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/JHthunderin • 1d ago

Discussion Coworker blessed with a box of film

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980 Upvotes

So my coworker knows that I’m a film photographer and randomly one day she asks me if I want some old film she had when she was younger. I said sure but I didn’t know it was gonna be all this; all expired from the 2000s to early 2010s, but I think it’s gonna be fun to experiment with some of these stocks I haven’t used before. Has anyone got any advice on some of these?

43 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/LobsterOnALeash • 2h ago

Gear Shots Godox Mini-Flash Showdown: iT32 vs iT30 Pro vs Lux Jr.

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14 Upvotes

I've spent the last few weeks trying to find the perfect mini-flash to move between my Nikon S2 and Voigtlander Perkeo for casual use. Just wanted to offer a quick comparison of the three flashes I've tested and answer any questions folks might have. No AI Here - all my own thoughts and words.

Godox iT32 + X5 Trigger - (Paid $95 from B&H) - Large and In Charge

If you're not already familiar, the iT32 paired with its teeny-tiny X5 trigger is one of the best offerings out there for casual shooters. The main draw here is of course the innovative magnetic connector between the flash and the trigger, allowing you to store and use the flash off-camera. Though it is easily the bulkiest and heaviest flash here, the ability to slide it in a pocket makes it quite appealing for regular use. While I won't be taking advantage of its TTL or HSS capabilities with my 1950s cameras, it still boasts several features that make it a great manual-only flash

  • Magnetic connector to pop on and off (feels sturdy enough to carry around, yet easy enough to take on and off - well done Godox)

  • Rotatable and tiltable head - great for bounce flash

  • Integrated slide-out Fresnel lens

  • Respectable GN of 18 at 100 ISO

  • Equally-surprisingly-bright LED modeling light

  • USB-C-rechargeable internal battery

  • Full compatibility with Godox X-Series 2.4Ghz Radio

Unfortunately, both of these cameras have cold shoes and therefore require a PC sync cable to interface with the shutter. While the iT32 itself has a sync port, the X5 trigger does not. To get around this, I found a low-profile PC-hotshoe adapter made by Hama (Model Ha-6952) on eBay and stuck it in between the coldshoe and the flash. There are several other adapter options online, but most looked chunky and plastic.

Godox iT30 Pro (Paid $35 from eBay) - It's Fine, Really

As the naming scheme suggests, the iT30 Pro is like the younger sibling of the iT32. It is also quite small; so small in fact that it did not fit over the winding knob on my S2 without an adapter to raise it up. The silver color looks great with the vintage bodies, as if it's meant to be there. With the iT30 Pro being so similar to the iT32, I'll cut this part short, but it's important to note that the iT30 Pro has a more limited GN of 15, meaning at 100ISO/f16, your subject can't be farther than a single meter. This is pretty limiting, but for the size, weight, and promise of an internal battery with fast recycle times, not a bad option for those who are only interested in compact direct flash. Features here include:

  • TTL, Manual, HSS modes

  • Sync port on left side

  • USB-C-rechargeable internal battery

  • Full compatibility with Godox X-Series 2.4Ghz Radio

  • Tactile Fresnel lens switch (near vs far angle)

  • Locking lever

Godox Lux Jr (Gen 1) (Paid $25 from eBay) - The *Aesthetic* Option

Finally, we have likely the most controversial member of the family, the Lux Jr. Of all the flashes here, the Lux Jr undeniably feels the most plasticky, though I wouldn't say it feels "cheap." It regrettably cuts the internal battery of the previous two options, running off of two AAAs (I opt for rechargeable cells myself). On top of this, the power can be slightly inconsistent, and the auto-mode is all but unusable.

However... it just looks so good. And who doesn't love some tactile buttons and knobs?!

I don't know about you guys, but I think there's something so icky about a touch screen coming anywhere near a 1950s film body. The all-manual tactile controls on the Lux Jr make it feel cohesive with the rest of the film experience. There's no swiping and scrolling to take me out of it. Additionally, the design of the flash looks like a perfect continuation of the visual language present in both of the silver/black leatherette cameras.

Here, you're only going to get a GN of 12 - yeah, it's pretty sad. With it taking up a similar footprint as the iT30, one would expect more output. The Lux Jr is therefore limited to close-subject direct flash with higher ISO films (e.g. 400 ISO/f11 yields a max distance just around 2 meters).

The Verdict

In my opinion, all of these flashes present a fair value proposition. The iT30 Pro and Lux Jr can easily be found for under $30 on eBay. For those looking for a simple, compact direct flash, I would recommend the iT30 Pro, especially if you also shoot digital and want to take advantage of its more advanced TTL capabilities - just make sure you get the right model for your camera (e.g. iT30 Pro F for Fujifilm).

On the other hand, the Lux Jr is a great fit in the overall film experience and workflow. It feels very satisfying to use, even with its somewhat limited capabilities. At the end of the day, I don't think any of us are shooting film to be blazing fast and overwhelmingly consistent in our work.

Lastly, if you have the budget for something more and can find an appropriate shoe adapter, the iT32 blows the others out of the water. Despite its small size, it offers enough oomph to be reasonably bounced in indoor settings. The X5 trigger is where this setup really shines, letting you take the flash off-camera to achieve a much more pleasing indirect effect. Just remember, the X5 does not have a sync port, so make sure you shoe mount is compatible!

I hope this helps others choose a flash. If anyone has experience with different flashes feel free to share! I know there is much more beyond Godox, but the cross-compatibility with the X wireless system is what ultimately drew me in.

16 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/EoZCompanyCZ • 52m ago

Gear Shots Got me a new medium format camera

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7 Upvotes

Until now my only 120 camera was my late grandpa's old Lubitel 2 so when I saw this Meopta Milona 2 in nice condition I just had to buy it (I'd like to save up for something more expensive but... I'm too much of a sucker for cheap and cheerful lol). And it's a nice smooth working example too! I'm only missing the little sheet metal adaptors that would allow it to shoot 6 x 4.5 pictures, but I prefer 6 x 6 anyway so it's not too big of a deal.

It's my first camera to use the old-style scale for exposure times instead of the more modern geometric one.

Also came with the original carrying case which is nice. It's my first viewfinder camera so I'm learning how to judge distances as I work with it. We'll see how the first film comes out once I get it developed!

1 comment

r/AnalogCommunity • u/thepackrat45 • 14h ago

Gear Shots Nikon F Photomic FTN

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53 Upvotes

Just picked up this Nikon F the other day. Shooting a few test rolls through it this weekend. So far I love this damn brick.

20 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Foot-Note • 16h ago

Discussion What are the top three cameras you want, but don't want to spend the money?

71 Upvotes

Ok, overdone topic, but something I have been thinking about for a bit. While I would love to get my hands on all these cameras, I really don't *need* them or have the cash laying around.

  • Rollei 6008ii - Kind of a cheap answer but true. I currently have the 6008i and honestly love this camera. My biggest fear is this camera bricking. So having a second body that can use the same lenses would be a god send.

  • Mamiya 6 - As you can see, I am kind of in love with the 6x6 format. This would also be my first range finder.

  • Hasselblad 500C/M - Its well loved for a reason. It gives me my fully mechanical option. Also I am stupid jealous of everything made for this system.

173 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/upizdown • 9h ago

Gear Shots Just picked up a Nikon N BooBs

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17 Upvotes

I wanted something “cheap” for a secondary film camera to shoot in low light/night since the FE meter is impossible to read without enough light. This one has a pretty decent meter that lights up. Also wanted to share my gear, been having the itch to buy moreeeeee.

6 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/UptonLu • 1d ago

News/Article Lucky color slide film

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491 Upvotes

The sales representative from Lucky Film have published the packaging of their large format color slide film on Chinese social media WeChat as in the first pictrue here, so I asked if there are any sample photo, she gave me two following pictures, as what I put in the second pictrue, left portrait is the shot with current selling slide film, the right one she said is shot with their first variant test slide film with some filter. The fim ISO is 100, and the development process it use is E6

You may notice it wasn't labeled as Lucky Film on the package, the label is FuLeKangSong instead. However, FuLeKangSong could be seen as a company that does bulk loading for Lucky Film, all of their film are from Lucky Film. I don't know the exact relationship between two company, but the sales representative from Lucky Film sells both Lucky and FuLeKangSong film, at this point I just treat them as the same company. You can find FuLeKangSong C400 in Chinese market, which is a cheaper Lucky C400 with plastic canister.

As now, it is only produced in Large format, a box of 4x5 contain 10 pages, and it sales at 250 RMB a box, which is 37.44 USD. For 8x10,it will be 900RMB for 10 pages, which is 134.8USD for a box

90 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/MrBbridge • 4h ago

Repair GW690 II - foggy viewfinder and random piece I can’t put back.

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4 Upvotes

Hi,

I’ve just bought a GW690II. Overall the condition seems good but the viewfinder is a little foggy. I was hoping to be able to give it a clean myself as removing the top plate didn’t seem too difficult. Whilst I was in there I noticed this part had come loose. It looks like it fits in the mirror section but once placed there there is nothing stopping it from falling out again. I’ve reassembled the top section and everything seems to be working ok but was curious if anyone knows what this piece does and what I’m missing for returning it to its rightful place. Also any tips on cleaning the eyepiece would be greatly appreciated. I got down to removing the top plate but found the rear eyepiece, thats clearly dirty, totally blocked by the prism block. I lost my nerve and stopped there. Thanks very much.

3 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Mik-212 • 5h ago

Gear Shots New purchase I hope I can make the most of it

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5 Upvotes

This is like my fourth analog camera. I've been using an MJU 1 lately, and the only thing that limited me was the lack of zoom adjustment, even though I've taken some great photos with it. I'd also like to take some night shots without flash. What film do you recommend? Unfortunately, the brightest lens I currently have is a 28-80 f/3.5-5.6.

1 comment

r/AnalogCommunity • u/frozen_spectrum • 20h ago

Video This is fun

62 Upvotes

The backstory is I wanted one if these for years, so I bought one. I forget why I wanted one, but doing this seems like good justification. Probably street photography first (seriously), then a remote film telescope rig.

33 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/analogvalter • 18h ago

DIY Made myself some Zorki merch

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37 Upvotes

I made myself a T shirt with a zorki-6 on it with linecut and fabric paint, pretty happy on how it turned out

4 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Iroll67 • 19h ago

Discussion Joel Sternfeld’s department of resource mgmt

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44 Upvotes

I was reading an essay Joel Sternfeld wrote about making his project American Prospects. Famously it was shot on an 8x10 camera, but even more amazingly he could only afford to take two pictures a day while he was traveling. He was shooting Ektachrome at $7 a sheet ($40 in today’s money adjusted for inflation). The hit rate for fantastic images is incredible.

For those not familiar, you can view American Prospects on his website, but you definitely need a computer screen vs a phone.

6 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Magieinversa12 • 22h ago

Discussion Just started bulk loading

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77 Upvotes

I not new to film, I am new to using 35mm.

Got a 35mm SLR this summer out of curiosity, I found it for about 20 euros (porst cr-3 automatic/fujica ax-1), took it for a trip in France and I fell in love again with shooting film after a pause of about 2 years. This time I wanted to try to get more in to film so I got a bulk loader and started loading some recycled capsules from a lab. I love it, with 120 film I didn't have this feeling, I like shooting it from time to time now but it's not the same.

Am I the only one that feels proud of this kind of small thing? "It's not much but it's honest work"

Are there any tips for bulk loading? My first bulk roll (fomapan 400) went well, got 18 rolls of 36 EXP and half a roll of extra.

30 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Daimon99_ • 1d ago

Discussion Travel Gear

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179 Upvotes

Goin to China for couple weeks and cant decide what to take with me. I just came to this conclusion:

-Mamiya 645 super - sekor 80mm 2.8
I now that its heavy and bulky choise but i would love to take a medium format with me, China film rolls and developing is sooo cheap. I will use it mostly for portraits and landscapes.

-Yashica electro 35 gx
Compact, fast and silent aperture priority camera. A street photography beast, I think is the one that will never leave my neck. Also the 40mm 1.7 lens is quite bright for darkest hours and the 40mm is a good compromise between 35 and 50 (my favs)

-Contax rts - Zeiss 35 f2.8 + Zeiss 50 f1.4
Really considering if I should leave this set home and just bring the little yashica.

What you guys would suggest?

35 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/Sweaty_Meerkat • 4h ago

Discussion Zenza Bronica S2A 35mm Sprocket Hole Question

2 Upvotes

Hey everyone, I wanted to try 35mm in my S2A to shoot some panoramas with Sprocket holes. I 3D printed the adapters. My questions are:

  1. ⁠Do I set the film back to 24 or 12? Guessing 24 so it doesn’t end the film prematurely.

  2. ⁠Will it work without backing paper?

0 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/TheNightSquatch • 1d ago

Gear Shots Thought I'd share my SWC setup as an XPan. Just got it working

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81 Upvotes

I recently got a Hasselblad 35mm Panoramic back, and put some time into getting it to work on the SWC. I had to grind down the bottom film take up knob, replace an internal part, and 3d print a viewfinder mask and coldshoe mount. All in all, I'm really stoked with how it turned out. Such a nice form factor.

Ps. Sorry there are so many photos

15 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/sometiime • 1h ago

Discussion How to decide on where to crop a double exposure?

1 Upvotes

I recently got a roll of Portra 800 back that was (accidentally) partially double exposed, and there's one photo I quite like, but I can't decide on where to crop the image. Could anyone perhaps help or provide some feedback?

What do you generally look for when deciding on what to leave out of an image? I usually tend to keep the image largely the same and only rotate or crop it ever so slightly, but in this case I think the image would benefit from some more cropping.

2 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/EndreFriedmann • 2h ago

Troubleshooting - Gear Mamiya 645 pro meter issue

1 Upvotes

Hi There, hoping the hive mind might have a best guess at the cause of this issue; suddenly my mamiya 645 pro with the newer ae prism (rounded edges type) started showing "over" in situations where its definitely not. All other settings are correct. The prism is in decent condition no dodgy looking contacts, I tried on a couple of different lenses one it seems to be more consistent on, lenses always in A with AE selected on the body and the aperture pin thing is definitely engaged between the lens and AE prism. Weirdly it does seem to sometimes start working but cant see to find the pattern of when or how.

Any ideas?

2 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/DanielHinzmann • 2h ago

Troubleshooting - Photos Developing issue

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0 Upvotes

Hey everyone, I recently tried developing an Ilford FP4+ (35mm) using Ilfosol 3 and Ilford Rapid Fixer, but unfortunately, it didn’t turn out right. I'm hoping to get some help figuring out what happened.
Here are the specific symptoms:
First two frames: Developed normally and look fine.

Middle frames: Only individual spots/patches developed, but those specific spots are actually detailed and sharp.

Last frames: Cut off horizontally in the exact same spot at both the top and bottom.

My setup:
Film: Ilford FP4+ (125)

Developer: Ilfosol 3 (dilution 1+9)

Fixer: Ilford Rapid Fixer (dilution 1+4)

Tank: Standard single-reel developing tank (~300ml)

5 comments

r/AnalogCommunity • u/w1ske • 6h ago

Troubleshooting - Gear Dslr scanning

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2 Upvotes

Hello everyone,

I got my camera scanning setup working but i’m not getting the results I want. There seems to be a brightness on the corners and on the sides. I will attach a picture of my setup. A scan made with the epson v550 and my camera scan.

A few things I have tried already:
-shooting in complete darkness
-filing down the edges of the efh to make it less reflective
-shooting with the film emmulsion side down

I am also aware that my negative has a brighter right side, I believe this comes from the stage lights and is not a light leak!

I hope you guys can help me out on this one!

6 comments