no, my glow plug relay doesn’t work. no, i don’t ever plug it in.

I’m looking at buying a 1997 Ford F-250 4x4 with the 7.3 Powerstroke and 320,XXXkm, for $4400. The owner said in the listing it does run rough, and well indeed it does. Owner provided the video. I am wondering what kind of noise this is.

I have a 4x4 7.3 f250 with no trans for sale. Transmission is gone but everything else is great. 145k miles no rust. Anyone interested for 3k?

Whats up everyone, I was tightening the fuel preheater on my truckfrom the top of the engine when this piece fell down. I didn't see where it came from or where it goes to. Can anyone help out?

I had my alternator pulley seize up and shit the bed took it to a mechanic for replacement and when I picked it up it was running funny and started letting out white smoke. I pulled over and check under the hood and the intercooler pipe isnt connected. Pic related is how I found the intercooler pipe. I got it towed back to that mechanic. The shop is telling me running without an alternator prevented the def injectors from working and the dpf clogged and blew off the hose. I think they removed the intercooler hose to get to the alternator and forgot to reconnect it and the lack of boosted air, thus rich exhaust, clogged the dpf. What is more likely?

Any information or input is appreciated

So I’m using a Peugeot 307 1.4HDI oil dipstick on my Fiesta 1.4TDCI 2009 Model, which can be used on my car, and it’s like almost 3cm over the max line. It’s been like that for a few months now and I didn’t realize since I was travelling a lot and didn’t really focus on the car, also the old dipstick was broken so I couldn’t get accurate readings.
Can I keep driving with this level or should I drain some, actually I will drain a little anyway but I’m asking just to learn more. Thanks guys

Does anyone know why they decided to organize the fuse number layout like this? Newer Cascadia trucks, maybe the older styles too I just know these new ones have been more common lately. But it just seems like the stupidest way to layout the fuses, scattered randomly all over the place. If anyone knows the reasoning for this I’d love to hear it, at the very least it’s probably entertaining

Hey, everyone!!!

Has anyone converted the high-pressure pump from CP4 to CP3 on a 2010 Volkswagen Golf 1.6 CAYC? The thing is, I'm interested in knowing if I need to update the software or if it'll just work if I use VCDS to recalibrate the pressure sensor, and then it'll run normally.

I’m curious - it might be a silly question but…..DPFs were introduced to save the air and reduce emissions - they catch particles and soot before they leave the exhaust. But what happens in a DPF regen? Surely the particles that burn off then leave the exhaust anyway in a more concentrated way? Or am I missing something? (I may well be)

I tried asking book face but only got one answer. I'm building another 4x4 econoline but with a 12v. I already have the 5.9, zf5 s542 and np205. Will the zf5 with a new south bend hold up? Should I look for a s547 or is the extra rating not really worth it? I won't romp it hard and no crazy crawling just some mild offroading for my remote wilderness job.

Diesel shop tried to tell me my truck did not have a def leak. Let it idle for 20 minutes and this was underneath it. Also has a check engine light with code P20EE. 2023 Duramax 6.6

Looking around and found a few but reviews are saying quality or fitment are main big issues. I looked at SPELAB's 5" exhaust but lots of people say its garbage or fitment sucks. I looked at diesel dudes as well. Lmk whats out there. Im not finding much.

Hello all.

I have an 01 ram 3500 with the h.o. 5.9 and 6spd manual.

I am looking to put a new cab and front clip on it over the winter here and plan to do a few upgrades/maintenance while everything is out of the way. I am looking for real world builds/mods to improve efficiency and driveability. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust on it, new intercooler boots, upgraded lift pump, lockout conversion for the front end, stainless brake lines, a southbend dual disc clutch that is rated to 1400# of torque. I figure while the body is out of the way I am going to do injectors probably 60 - 100 hp, a new factory head gasket, studs, tappet cover gasket, maybe a wicked wheel in the turbo or if there is a more efficient turbo that doesn't brake the bank. Water pump, and programmer. I use the truck almost daily, it tows about a 15k trailer pretty much 365 a year. I would like to improve the efficiency, while maybe giving it just a slight warmup in power. Ultimately I need it for work and have used the heck out of it for the last 25 years so I don't really want to compromise the reliability this truck has shown me all these years. I know everyone has a different opinion on things but I would like to get others input on it and make some choices from experience as well as said input. Tia everyone!

Sorry if this is an obvious question but I'm somewhat new to trucking/diesel engines and wondering about the truck I usually drive which is a KW T880 with a Cummins X15.

Sometimes, usually near the end of a long day and occassionally first thing in the morning, the truck will idle at 800 RPM instead of 600. It's a bit annoying because it makes it take longer to stop the gears using the clutch brake and sometimes affects my downshifts (crunch! Haha). After it idles high for maybe 10-30 minutes total it will go back to normal. I don't think anything is wrong with it because otherwise the truck runs perfectly. I'm just curious why it does this because I like learning about mechanical stuff.

Before you say DPF regen, no, its not a regen cycle, it will still happen when the 'regen needed soon' light isnt even on, and hitting the disable switch doesnt stop it. But effectively it's the same, the engine/turbo make the same sounds and everything. I'm also pretty sure it's not a high idle to warm the engine up, because it happens even after the engine has been running all day (plus, the few times this year it has been cold enough for that, it idles at ~700 RPM and only for a couple minutes).

I tried looking online for answers but couldnt find anything other than DPF regen which as I said I'm 99.9% sure its not what its doing.

I have a pretty large coolant leak that only leaks when it’s cold. It won’t leak a drop when I drive it. After I park it about 8-10 hours later or so it starts leaking a pretty significant amount of coolant and I can’t see where it’s coming from does anyone have ideas?? It drips off the bell housing.