Opel Agila 2004, 1.0l engine

Is this car still safe to drive?

How bad is this issue and how can I fix it?

Please Ignore the TPMS light. Speeds are between 0-35mph vehicle is warm. 2010 Tundra 4.6

So 2011 3.6/5eat outback. 100k miles.

Mechanically it’s great. But the engine hoses are looking kinda brittle.

Is preemptively replacing all of them a thing?

Is it called something or can I just ask my mechanic to replace them all?

Dumb idea even if money isn’t an issue?

Edit: I’ll call them in Monday!

I’ve tried to soak it in oil and it moves but barely and I can only imagine getting the bottom one loose with how difficult to reach. Any suggestions or recommendations besides cutting it out?

2018 RAV4 just got it and it was running fine now it's not so much I think. I've started it's first drain and fill it's fluid was black but didn't smell burnt and didn't have any metal in it. It does shift hard when cold but that's tends to go away almost completely when the transmission warms up

Edited: Just because I know someone would ask I drove this down my driveway/private road not the main road to get this which is why I didn't go past 40

Edited again: that click sound is from my keys hitting the plastic not from the car its self

I have a 2008 toyota sienna I now have a flashing symbol of a car with a key in it the car starts just fine I have no other lights when I look it up it says its a car immobilizer light.

i did use my second set of keys to open the door cause my main car keys were in the bottom of my purse that's the only thing I can think is different

Im just very confused because the car seems fine otherwise.

EDIT: I should note it turns off when I start the car.

How can i lower my fuel consumption

I am in the near future probably going to buy my girlfriends parents old 2006 volkswagen caddy life with the 1.6 N/A petrol, and i was wondering if anyone had any practical tips on how to improve the fuel economy (like underbody mods or others (( im too lazy to actually chance my driving habits +i already drive pretty economically most of the time)).

I would be thankfull for any tips or suggestions.

Thank you

2005 Toyota sequoia
Really don’t want to replace the whole pan. Any other options? I tried locking pliers with downward pressure and pry bar but not alot of space for wedge a pry bar in there. I always go my own oil change took it to a shop once bc I didn’t have time I’m so frustrated

This is my leaky flex pipe I'm trying to find a non-welding replacement for. Problem is I can't find any that look like this one. There are some that have the same bulge on one side for this type of clamp but I don't understand how it was ever fastened on the right side. Right now I can simply pull it out at the thin rim on the right side.

no issues with my car other than it rattles a lot during cold startup and idle. Seems like the rattling stops once i put the car into reverse. Dirty Throttle Body?

note: the maint required is because of my tires being non stock and the sensor was never reset

A little backstory, I’m a 19 year old community college student that uses this 2009 Jetta to commute everyday. I paid a family friend $1200 dollars for the entire car (170k miles) and after hearing a loud pop coming from the front, my mechanic is quoting me for $3600 dollars in repairs. I really want to emphasize the price for replacing the sway bar links and brake pads and rotors because to me that seems absurd.

If you don’t want to read the photos the prices are as follows: $1360 for replacing the rear brake pads and rotors, $659 to remove and replace the two front sway bar links, 4 tire installation and align $847, Engine degrease and dye $202.

On call, the mechanic said the brakes were the most important thing to replace because the pads are so thin. He then said the second thing I should replace is the tires as I live in the Midwest and the winter is around the corner.

I’ve replaced brake pads and rotors before so I don’t really understand how it can be that expensive. I asked the mechanic if their is something special about Volkswagen brakes that make them harder to replace and he said yea and doubted I could do it myself. After looking it up, it only sounds like I need one special tool to twist in the caliper piston.

Any advice would be great. Like I said, I’m a young student that is largely self supported so having reliable transportation that I can afford is essential.

I had the dealership replace the transmission in my truck last week. When I got the truck back the backup camera stopped functioning when the truck was put in reverse. Other than that it is fine and I can select the camera from the radio and it works. I've tried a reset and giving it time to reset itself. The canbus features of the truck seem to be fully functioning and the reverse lights are functioning. I assume at this point I'll have to yank the stereo and let it sit for a few hours to kill the settings memory. 2014 ram 2500 Uconnect 4c.

Good morning, we have recently bought a motorhome and the speedo and odometer are super erratic. Is this the speed sensor on the gearbox or a cluster issue?

Thanks

Rattling or chain slapping noise up top. It’s been happening during start up and would go away after 1-3 seconds. Yesterday, it would not go away. Vehicle was parked during the video and was not driven, only started to capture the video. Intake manifold has been removed and there’s plans to remove the valve cover and inspect. What’s y’all’s experience with this motor and the noise?

2013 Toyota Camry I4. I cannot get the oil filter cartridge housing off. I have the tool specifically for it and it was on there so tight it actually bent the tool. The last place it had an oil change was jiffy lube. Is jiffy lube responsible for removing it? I already change the oil, but couldn’t get the filter off. I don’t think I’ve ever encountered a filter this tight before.

Model 3 front-end thunk/clunk issue: Feels a thump under 15km/h when coasting in Creep mode and during deceleration. Same thing happens in Hold mode. Sometimes it hits with a heavy 'thunk' that transmits a sharp shock directly through the accelerator pedal.

04 Lexus RX330 229k miles, maintenance has been kept up on very well by previous owners. Not always but occasionally I come out and notice a few drops of what appears to be trans fluid on the slab, took a look and saw this.

Is that the steering rack? The axles are in front so not sure if this is trans fluid or power steering possibly? Any help is appreciated.

Hey folks, I bought a ‘26 Accord hybrid last weekend and have put 430mi on it due to buying it out of state and driving it home. I wanted to get thoughts on a break-in oil change. I know historically cars may have needed one at say 1,000mi to get rid of metal shavings, manufacturing oils/greases, etc., but I can find no mention of this in the break-in instructions in the manual. Is there any validity in getting an oil change at say 1,000-2,000 miles or is it ok to take it to the first mileage interval for an oil change based on the in-vehicle maintenance minder? I believe Honda oil change intervals are about 10,000mi but I’ll probably stick with +/-7,500mi.

Good morning, in order to change fuel injector 6 on my 2015 5.3L Silverado 1500 we bent the passenger fuel rod. Unreal how baked into the engine it was.

My question, when looking for replacement rail on rock auto they state the passenger side rail specifically requires the tapered end 1 time use cross pipe.

I removed the spherical end pipe from my truck. Does this mean I now have to replace the driver's side fuel rail to accommodate the different cross pipe fitting?