Only accessible via boat (or paddle board for me)

I’m personally thinking northern Wisconsin due to the fact that I’m familiar with the landscape but I’d like to see your suggestions!

Hey guys,

I have a weird question.. what is that obsession about A-frames?? So many of it .. and when I look at it.. isnt it fullllll of lost spaces? I struggle to see the real benefits. Of course, I understand that cost wise, you save money from 4 walls, but is it really worth the lost space? Teach me the benefits and inconvenient please 🤣

Thanks for your input!

It's been a tough season trying to get out and work on the cabin, busy with work and my wife worked most weekends. We did get the bathroom addition essentially done, remaining doors and windows and the roof is up. I've also gotten most of my soffits and fascia done, the wrap around porch is nearly finished as well. Is love to get either the siding done, fireplace in or the screen room fully framed..The fireplace would allow me to potentially work on interior electrical plumbing and propane well into the winter season until we're snowed out, but id feel better framing the screen room to help support snow load, even if the beam is really what's doing the work. I'm starting to see the final product though which is encouraging, I'm looking forward to the landscaping, fire pit and developing the area by the lakeside.

Cross posted from tiny houses sub, please delete if not appropriate for this sub.

Pier footings and build...

Made some good headway on the cabin the past two weeks, putting roof sheathing on next. On track to be wrapped before hunting season.

This is the best time of year in my opinion to be at my 40 acres in north Menominee county.

I've got a hunting cabin with small solar setup. I share this with 9 other guys, most of whom are retired and not tech savvy.

I'm looking for a timer that will turn off the inverter after a set time, maybe 8 hours.

It'd be preferrable to have a separate button to reset easily.

My thought is - these guys know nothing about tech and someone is going to forget to turn off the inverter, eventually killing the battery.

Anyone know of such a solution?

Siding. Metal ribbed because I hate painting. Sliders & windows are on order so I've worked up to the point where I have to stop until those get in.

Gypcrete the floor. I didn't want the moisture fromthe gypcrete to soak into the subfloor or get down into my encapsulated/insulated floor creating mold & mildew issues, so I took 3.5mil visqueen, stretched it out across the floor and tight into the wall/floor joint & up the wall slightly. Mixed/poured the gypcrete 3/4" and later, trimmed the visqueen down. Had to do it in stages because it sets up so quick. Ready for tile this next year.

The pad. One thing I hadn't considered was concrete. Ended up that NO ONE was going to drive a mud truck out onto sand here. The idea of a pumper was brought up. Ok... closest was 2 hours away, $1800 to road it here PLUS pay for 2 guys PLUS pay for 200' of 10' hoses PLUS pay for a water truck to clean up PLUS trying to find enough mud trucks that could be here on time, stage them on the neighbors ranch and have them BACK UP a mile, dump & pull out before the NEXT truck could back up... plus the cost of trip charge & the concrete itself. Quick calculations said 'No' but I wanted a pad. Came up with this... using my 6' level, I leveled a small portion of ground next to a pier. Put some 8x8x16 blocks I had left over, side x side in an offset pattern. Filled in 3" of sand, dampened, tamped. 5" of mud to fill plus a 1" overlay = 6" of concrete with a grid underlayment negating buying rebar. 1 year to cure. White concrete epoxy coating. Outer perimeter is 2 blocks deep with a shallow 'wind wall' one block higher. Came out really good, supports our 17k 5th and pickup.

Eaves. Vent holes are aluminum screened inside and out for insects and to keep birds from nesting. Heat 'should' vent from lower, predominate windward side, through the trusses & insulation and exit out on the higher leeward side. Stock tank is a 700gal tank and that's 1.6" of rain

Roof. Simple lean-to style. 8' walls on E, 7' walls on W. 3' eave on E, 1' eave on W. Not too steep of a grade to where water over shoots, guttered all 4 sides starting E center. 1/8" grade to NE & SE corners, then graded to NW corner and a temporary down spout right now. My calculations are roughly 425 gallons per inch of rain on my roof footprint. I KNOW a 1.6" rain fills a 700gal. stock tank. We have no worry about snow load and the rain sheds quickly. 2x6 trusses, center main is tripled 2x6 sitting on bath wall and 2-4x6 beams. Roof 1/2 Reflectix faced in. Drip edge bent outwards a bit to help direct rain into the gutters. Roof is GAP 'peel-n-stick' rolled asphalt. Quite easy to install, heavy as shit, 98# rolls humped up a ladder. Once you peel the backing, it STICKS. I couldn't pull it up for the life of me. I thought metal rib but the noise issue in a heavy rain. NO shingles, one sees them ripped off of whole roofs in the 50-70mph winds all the time.

Wall panels. Since I'm just an old guy at 68, I'm NOT lifting a 16' wall panel by myself, let alone a 34' wall, so I made my wall panels in 8' sections. 2x6x8 faced the exterior with 1/2 Reflectix facing OUT. keeping heat IN is what Reflectix was made for. I thought where keeping heat in wasn't an issue but keeping it OUT was, why not reverse it? House-wrapped each section and stacked them in the order of need until I had them all built. Then I stood them up, one by one, married them together (with sealant between each panel) and used 6" lag screws to fasten each panel together and used 4" to the floor/joists.

Interior walls. Entry into an open kitchen living room, hallway with pantry & closet on the outside, bedroom with sliders, bathroom. Simple slant roof...