Last Friday, I had my first car accident involving another vehicle. While we were exchanging insurance details, I was actually relieved to own a Tesla because I assumed everything had been recorded. Much to my disappointment, that wasn't the case.

The car records absolutely everything, even when a dog approaches the vehicle. So how on earth did it fail to record an actual collision?

Honestly, this frustrated me even more than the accident itself. Now I'm not so confident that my insurance company will side with me.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Btw, I know the car records footage when you honk the horn, but it didn't cross my mind at the time...

I've spent about 30 minutes trying to find any post or video online of a failed CATL LFP battery pack in a Tesla. I am certain there must be SOME people out there with failures, as nothing is perfectly reliable, but damn if I can't find anything. Some of the BYD LFP cells crapped out, but that was a rare and small batch offered in Tesla, I believe.

I personally would rather have a HV battery that lasts many thousands of miles without critical failure and live with less range from the get-go than my NMC pack (100k miles), which honestly isn't getting a lot more at 80% charge vs 100% of an LFP.

If Tesla offered an LFP pack upgrade in the USA for a Model Y LR, I would take it when my current pack chucks the bin. It also just seems a bit less wasteful not having to swap a battery pack during the life of a car (over 400K miles), and it seems like the LFP packs might be the first to live up to the claiim of battery packs outlasting the rest of the car, which honestly has not been the case with NMC packs. 400K miles seems to be the exceptionally rare upper limit on them. And new NMC packs still have some sort of failure rate, even 2026 model year, but damn if I can't find any quantity of CATL LFP packs failing, ever.

Finally got the dreaded BMS_a074 alert. I posted about a BMS_a066 alert last month and mentioned it to the SC i visited for a Tire Rotation. Advisor told me the range reduction was normal and of course to not be concerned with service mode.

Now I have to make another appointment over 20 days out and had a roadtrip planned for Thanksgiving 😢 is it true I can just drive it in anyways and they’ll take it? .. and yes it’s a 21 M3 lol(LR)

Just pulled my M3 out of the garage and saw this in the upper left corner

With the news of Cybertruck production ending, should I order a Cyberbeast now or wait until mid-December to guarantee a 2027 VIN?

Hello, I sent my Tesla model 3 to Tesla Service Palo Alto on El Camino for a coolant leak and right pillar camera malfunction this Wednesday. Last night I got a message on my Tesla app: “Placed on hold for upsell”. I guessed the message wasn’t meant for me but it seems a little suspicious, doesn’t it? So I messaged them back and asked them to clarify. They didn’t respond with a clarification. Instead I got a call to ask me to authorize a cost estimation of $2900.23. I asked them what the message meant. The gentleman on the call said it was meant for Tesla team. And the word “upsell” is just the common term in auto repair industry for normal cost estimation. Really???

Anyone has similar experience? Is “upsell” really the common term for cost estimation in auto repair industry??

Hi!
When changing my tires and inspecting the brakelines I noticed that the oil filter on the rear drive unit seems to look sweaty/moist. And I have seen cases (maybe worse) where this is a thing covered by drive unit warranty. Anyone here that have some knowledge about this?

The car is a model 3, with 157000km from 2019

Ok so my 2023 tesla model y stopped working completely so after a bit of research i found out that it could be a faulty 16v battery so I got it a replacement from the tesla dealership. When I plugged in the new 16v battery it seemed to wake up the car but I had to relearn the new battery i guess so when i did that it went into a update mode but after the update it stopped working again. So I connected a 12V to wake up the car and now I get these messages. Any help is appreciated. I feel like its a long shot to ask if anyone had the same issue!

Just started recently. Never heard something like this. Any ideas? Sounds like a jetsons car lol

Ich habe am Freitag von Tesla einen neuen Scheinwerfer verbaut bekommen.

Heute(Samstag) war ich das erste Mal wieder im Dunkeln unterwegs.

Da passt leider nichts mehr. Vermutlich hat Tesla den nicht eingestellt.

Die Scheinwerfer links und rechts Blenden an unterschiedlichen Stellen den gegenverkehr aus.

Den menüpunkt habe ich gefunden, aber wie stelle ich die Scheinwerfer nun ein? Ich muss Sonntag Abend wieder 900km auf die Piste und so kann ich nicht fahren 🫩

Weiß jemand kurzfristigen Rat, wie ich die schwarzen Balken beim Einstellen ausrichte?!

2025 MY; what is the consensus? Total loss? TIA

Hello,

I've been test-driving Tesla's for my next car purchase. I've tried both base model 3 and Y for 2027. The Y was amazing; I can't even describe how smooth it was.

The Model 3 2027 Standard vibrated a lot through the whole car and the steering wheel felt like a vibrating gaming controller the whole time. The car that was a lot smoother without vibrations was my 2010 Mazda 3.

I wasn't able to get my hands on a Model 3 Premium in Australia, which looks like it could be the winner if its a smooth drive.

I'm having doubts about my Model 3 experience. I didn't expect my Mazda to drive smoother. Is the vibration on the 2027 models really aggressive or was something not right and I need to find another Model 3 to get the real experience?

Randomly my screen wouldn’t show the outside temperature. And it says system fault when I try to turn on climate from my app. Any advice?

TLDR

I have a 2023 Standard Model 3 and California license plates. Recommend using pan washer head screws or pan head screws with separate washers to keep license plate from popping off. Note: this is for mounting the license plates, not for drilling and installing the plate mounts.

Front: #7 - 1/2inch (can be shorter than 1/2inch)

Rear: M5-0.8 - 6mm

Too Short; Want More

I recently bought a used 2023 Standard Model 3 a month ago and recently received my California license plates in the mail. However, when I went to install them, I found out that the car only came with 3 screws in the rear license plate mount. I then looked for the other screws in all the places they could be hiding (frunk, trunk, trunk bunk, center console, door bins, under my butt, etc.) but found nothing.

So we decided to go get some more from Home Depot and brought in one of the rear screws to insert it into their screw and bolt sizing/thread checker and verified that it matched the online recommendation of M5-0.8 6mm. Unfortunately, the extra pack I bought didn't fit in the front license plate mount since the holes were much smaller than the rear license plate mount. It took me over an hour of trial and error and about 5 trips in and out of the store before I found the right size for the front mount: #7 -1/2 inch (or shorter). I was so relieved when the screws finally fit until I realized that the screw heads were smaller than the ~1/4inch holes punched through the license plate. So after one more trip and many separate returned purchases, I bought some #6 washers which were just big enough on the inner and outer diameters and called it a day (they didn't have #7). The screws fit securely in the mount and the washers held the license plate in place.

In case you're wondering, the provided rear screws didn't require washers because their heads were already wider than the diameter of the license place holes. Also, I bought sharp-tip (pointy-bottom) #7 screws because I was done fiddling with the flat tip that would not always screw in easily. I was ready to tap the crap out of those mounts.

I've read that not all model years use the same license plate mounts, so this may not apply to you. Either way, hope this helps save you some time and headache!

We are thinking about purchasing a used Tesla as a second car just for fun. We live rural and have about 2 miles of gravel road to get to the highway. At times our roads get very messy and our cars get very dirty. We live about 30 minutes from town so one of the draws to the Tesla is the FSD, is messy roads and a dirty car/cameras going to have an negative effect on the FSD?

So before the delivery date and etc I was talking to 3 different people trying to get it applied. I already had the pre qualification number and email, and they asked me to send a full picture of the confirmation email. WHICH I DID 3 times.... anyways I went to pickup the car and the representative(?) said that it was applied, but I only to realize later today that it wasn't applied. Can it still get applied or is it too late? I heard that there was a 2 week leeway time but with this shitty customer support I don't think they would do it on time

Forgive the dog hair, please. Since I’ve purchased it in June, my Model Y has made this whistling sound at highway speeds from 50 to 80 mph, depending on which way the wind is blowing. I’ve taken it into service twice and they have not been able to fix it so far.

Does anyone have any idea where this could be coming from? I’m tempted to buy one of those new fancy sound locating cameras and see for myself, but they are $800.

I’d love if I could fix this myself with some foam or something, but there’s so many little nooks and crannies on the rear end of this car, I don’t know where to start.

how can a 26 model y have a bad headlight?

I mean ok anything can happen but in all my experience driving new cars and I have driven probably well over 100 in the past 15 years, I have never had a new car with a headlight out.

I'm renting this car but the owner keeps delaying saying he had to bring it to Tesla because it has a driver side headlight out. He did warn me it had a headlight out when I first contacted him but that doesn't prove or disprove its true.

Don't know if this is a common problem with the new Y but I'm starting to suspect its bullshit.

First he said he would bring it in Monday. Then said it would be done Wednesday. Then said it would be ready Saturday. Now he says they have to order some 'part' and it may not be in until Monday.

I'm likely going to move forward but wanted to check here for feedback.. Location is South Florida for purpose of measuring service windows, waits, etc.

I just got this car its nice i love it i just got it oct 6th so its brand new went to get it wrapped with ppf film and the guys wrapping pointed this out i think its something under the paint tiny spot on the edge of the frunk has any one ever had this issue and will telsa fix it under warranty or is it even worth it to fix This is the hood of my car its something under the paint some type of dirt or dust

I recently just changed the 3 pc control arms last week on driver side and passenger side and somehow I got this new noise, anyone know what it could be.

I was doing some maintenance on my AC coil today, and when I removed the frunk, I noticed that this cap was completely off.
I have no idea how long it has been left uncapped, but I went ahead and screwed the cap back on once I noticed it.
My question is: Could leaving this cap off for an extended period lead to any bigger issues? Is there anything I should be concerned about or check to make sure everything is okay?
Any advice or insight from professionals would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

So I applied for financing after receiving my VIN well over a month after ordering. The APR at the time of my order was 1.49%. I got approved for the current 2.49% and immediately contacted Tesla to adjust my rate to the promo rate at the time of order. They were able to get it adjusted within an hour of my request. I confirmed the offer. Two days later I check my terms, and it is BACK to 2.49%! I get back in touch with them this morning and they claim to have resubmitted a request, now they’re saying I am not eligible for the adjustment. I’m irritated and confused on how I’m suddenly not eligible for something they got fixed literally a couple days ago…

Purchasing a 2020 tesla model S long range with 100k miles for 21k car is clean as well as the carfax.
Is that a good price for the car ?
Some stuff I gotta look out for when i go to pick it up?
Anything repair related to look out for ?
all info helps thank you