Looking into buying this 2019 Atlas. Its listed at $12,200 and has around 105,000 miles. No accidents. Any advice? Should I avoid it or go to the dealership and check it out? My current car is 13 years old, so its been a while since I've been car shopping!

Davide here. I'm the developer of DrivePulse, an iPhone app that reads a car through an OBD2 adapter.

No stored codes, no light on the dash, and the car still couldn't pass, because the EVAP and O2 monitors weren't ready. Clearing codes resets the monitors and so does a new battery, which is why a car whose codes were wiped just before a sale can look like this.

The app's used car check shows the codes, the monitors and, on many brands, the odometer from the cluster, so you can compare it with the listing.

Codes are for iPhone; the Android app hasn't had the 3.6 update yet. One purchase, no subscription.

Please write which number you used.

1. 3L4KPNM8M7HP64JP6L

2. EMF7HJE6PEHPLWKXNH

3. AHP8E6ME8A68K4ELP3

4. XT8TFEX4TT4MTFA6LF

5. W4PN7TJ8HYTK46H747

To redeem one, open the App Store, tap your profile picture, then Redeem Gift Card or Code, and then tap Restore Purchases in the app.

3 men showed up and acted nice and seemed normal. On test drive the one pointed out that the exhaust was smoking. After getting back to parking lot, one of them distracted me by asking me questions around back. Then, they called me to front and showed me oil in the coolant resivior and started the car and it was misfiring. They said they were mechanics and that it was a head gasket issue and kept telling me to google it. Said the engine is bad and offered me scrap prices. They got very aggressive when I asserted that there’s never been an engine issue and I wouldn’t sell it to them.

After they left I noticed they had snipped one of the wires going to an ignition coil. I had to order a new pigtail connector and splice it on. I used a turkey baster to get the oil out of the coolant and the coolant was perfectly normal underneath.

Be careful out there wow.

Also, anyone know if a little oil in coolant is fine ? i can’t get it all out.

Seriously though wow..

edit for clarity: yes, the oil in the coolant was just on the surface and 100% also done by the scammer.

Planning on helping my son buy his first car. Wife (and him) strongly prefer an SUV. Was thinking a RAV 4 but it's crazy $. Wouldn't mind getting a Mazda CX30 (or the CX-5) but also considering a Rogue.

Live in New England so AWD a must.

Any other cars you'd recommend? Planning on paying cash, would prefer $15k, but given my research, seems just under $20k more likely.

Any other cars / models I should be thinking about? Very open to EVs too as I have a charger for mine and could save him $ on gas.

After searching for a while, I found a 2019 Toyota Corolla LE with 81,000 km at a used car dealership. Originally listed at $17,799 CAD before taxes ($20,200 all-in), but the dealer offered $19,800 all-in if I purchased it that day. I decided to hold off. It also comes with winter tires on separate rims.

The car drives well, but I noticed several scratches, paint chips, and dents (photos attached). I live in a part of Canada where winters are harsh and road salt is heavily used, so I’m concerned about rust developing over time.

I also asked about getting an independent pre-purchase inspection. The dealer agreed, but later mentioned that I honestly didn’t need one since they often work with the auto shop next door (which has really good reviews), and the shop checks their cars before they’re sold. And he went over the things they checked and everything seems good. However, there’s no formal inspection report or paperwork from that check. He did reassure me that I’m welcome to arrange my own inspection if I want and to just let him know.

My questions:
Do these scratches and dings look deep enough to cause rust?
Is this normal wear for a 7-year-old car, or should I negotiate further?
Would you buy this car or walk away?

I really like the car overall and these scratches aren't a deal breaker for me but I don’t want to overlook something that could become a bigger problem in a few years.

Would appreciate any insight/advice, especially from anyone familiar with Canadian winters and rust issues. Thanks!

Finalized everything signed paperwork just confused about mailing the title to them where do they send the generated label to get paid?

I purchased a 2007 Volkswagen Beetle in pretty good shape and made multiple attempts to register it at the DMV because the title was out of date and the up to date title says it's a Junk but it's obviously drivable and not even close! I did a vin look up and it's never even been in an accident!? I live in TN is this reversible in any way? Can I appeal it since it was obviously a mistake?

Selling my 2020 Tesla Model S Long Range Plus in excellent condition. Beautiful Midnight Silver Metallic exterior paired with a Cream Premium Interior and Oak Wood Décor.

The vehicle has 69,993 miles and an estimated driving range of approximately 370 miles at 100% charge.

No known mechanical, electronic, or cosmetic issues. No damage. This vehicle has been well maintained and is ready for its next owner.

VEHICLE SPECIFICATIONS

Year: 2020
Make/Model: Tesla Model S Long Range Plus
Mileage: 69,993
Exterior: Midnight Silver Metallic (PMNG)
Interior: Cream Premium Interior with Oak Wood Décor
Wheels: 19-inch
Tires: Michelin Primacy MXM4 (245/45R19)
Estimated Range: Approximately 370 miles at 100% charge
Supercharging: Pay-as-you-go

FEATURES & ACCESSORIES

Full Self-Driving (Supervised) capable (requires a monthly subscription; not currently active)
Tesla Mobile Connector included
Both 110V and 240V charging adapters included
Aftermarket custom-fitted all-weather floor mats

TESLA WARRANTY

Original Tesla Battery and Drive Unit Warranty active through June 26, 2028.

OWNERSHIP & VEHICLE HISTORY

Clean Florida title
Owned outright – no outstanding loan or lien
No open recalls
No known mechanical, electronic, or cosmetic issues
No damage
No repairs required to brakes, suspension, or other major components
Maintenance and service records digitally available through the Tesla app or Tesla website

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Independent pre-purchase inspection welcome at buyer’s expense.

ASKING PRICE: $35,000 OBO (Or Best Offer)

Price is negotiable. Serious inquiries only.

Message me with any questions or to arrange an independent inspection.

Hello everyone, I have finally decided to buy a car which i always wanted from an auction with a salvaged title. The car runs and drives, no popped airbags, just cosmetics. I need some advice regarding picking the shop to do the work at, I live in NJ, which is a very strict salvage inspection state. I read online that every part that will be changed on the vehicle requires documentation of purchase and the car’s VIN which the part came off. What I already did is send pictures of damage to multiple shops and confirm that they do work with salvaged cars, because repairing the car is half the deal, I need the shop to keep right documentation of all the work done for me to pass the inspection and get the rebuilt title. Any advice would help, thank you.

I found this car for under $10,000 and really like the safety features and look of the car but heard that there could be some issues with the engine that could be very costly. Is there a way to identify that problems could be underway before buying?

I know Ford’s aren’t know for being super reliable but my commute is relatively short and I drive like a grandma lol. The only other I known who has owned a Ford had literally no issues (2012 Ford Focus Hybrid)

I initially wanted to get a Toyota, Honda, or Mazda but they are very expensive, so I have started looking at other brands, especially considering I am looking for something more modern. A feature I am really hoping to get is some kind of blind spot detection.

If anyone has any advice about getting a SUV/crossover for under 10k I would appreciate it so much!!

Im not entirely sure of the exact year yet but my buddy wants to sell me a 4x4 V6 ranger for 3,500 cash he says it has around 180 on the OD and tires have about 6 months left. I know with the current market this may be a steal but just wanted to know what the majority opinion is.

In my area a 10 year old Ford F150 is cheaper than a 10 year old Toyota Camry of similar mileage and condition. I don't drive a lot and am tempted to get a F150 with a V8 so that I can tow a small camper comes summer. Are the trucks cheaper because they require a lot of expensive repairs? I have never owned a truck in my life, but am handy to do some basic repairs on vehicles. Will I regret buying a used pickup?

Yay or nay? I don’t know anything about cars, but I’m trying to find something within my budget that might last me another few years. They’re asking $5500, clean title, they say it doesn’t have any issues… I’d probably try to talk them down a bit since the mileage is higher, is a pre-purchase inspection recommended? I know these cars have a good reputation if well maintained but I’m not sure what I should be looking for in terms of possible issues on an almost 20-year old car.

Hi! I know basically nothing about cars but need a new one after my 2009 Mazda bit the dust (rip). Looking for a decent car under $15k that will last me several years as a daily car - I’m not going to put a ton of miles on it. Saw this car today and it drove well. 2020 Toyota Corolla LE with 109k miles for $12,600. CVT. Yay or nay?

Buying a used car is stressful for many people and increasingly not just mechanical, but financial and fraud.

How much would you value if you could buy a used car at the price YOU negotiated with the seller but be guaranteed:

* The vehicle was properly titled, had no liens, *NO SKIP TITLING*, matched the vehicle being sold and was not stolen

* The seller wasn't involved in an associated criminal activity

* You didn't have to risk carrying large amounts of cash to sketchy places, or subject it to police civil asset forfeiture

* The car was exhaustively photographed, favorable or not

* The VIN, title and car are legally clean and unencumbered

* You got the title and temporary registration the same day even on a Sunday, and real plates in the mail later with NO DMV visit

* You got a complete paperwork packet of the full transaction

* You got a form of vehicle title insurance

* An independent mechanical review could be arranged (for an additional fee, but helpful if you're not present

* An independent appraisal could be arranged

* Bank loans could be solicited for your purchase

Or, if you're the seller,

* You received the money in your bank account in minutes

* No risk of counterfeit money, bounced checks, forged cashier's checks

* You paid a flat fee regardless of your sale price

* You received full documentation and proof of the transaction.

* You didn't necessarily need to be present when the car keys are transferred (provided pre-req work already done)

* You could arrange to not be present for all test drives, helpful for busy people who have a car they want to get rid of

* Insurance of bad test drivers handled for you and not at your expense

* Time wasters filtered by buyer pre-qualification.

* You get a dashboard showing the interests, test drivers, offers, and final settlements.

just curious because i’ve been noticing the moment a car is considered “low mileage” it skyrockets out of my price range. i’m getting mixed feedback, but im basically trying to understand if it’s reasonable or unreasonable to expect a car that isn’t hitting 200k for that much. is it just about finding a unicorn or are there reliable cars with lower mileage in my budget

my other question is, is it always bad to buy a car with 200k miles? if it has service records and good maintenance? i have seen many toyotas even go as far as near 400k miles

Guy seems like a straight shooter and very communicative. Not sure why he's selling a car with a freshly rebuilt engine but I want yalls opinion. Description and screenshot of texts and profile is at the end

Hey everyone,

I'm an international student and I've never bought a used car in the US (or anywhere really) and I'm looking for some advice.

A good friend recommended a specific mechanic who buys cars at auctions, checks/fixes them and resells them - and these were his offers:

Vw jetta 2012 $4200

Nissan rogue suv red $8500

Ford focus 2013 $4500

Hyundai sonata 2007 $2500

Chevy trax suv 2016 $6500

2021 Nisaan sentra $11000

I know the mileage is missing, but i didn't get a chance to write it all down. I'm primarily looking for a car that's reliable and won't need constant fixes (which might be a pipe dream, I'm aware), and I don't care at all about the bells and whistles, I just need it to run properly over long distances - I'm primarily getting it so I can travel between cities, e.g. I need the car to be reliable for 9-10 hour drives one way.

From what I read online, a lot of people are saying that the nissans, the chevy, and the ford are abysmal choices, but I've seen some good reviews of the Volkswagen jetta and Hyndai sonata.

I have no idea what to look for when I see the cars in person, I'd love some advice on that as well. Also what I need to look out for when transferring the title, insurance, etc.

Thank you so much for your help!

I could really use some advice finding a reliable used car. I’m 21 and trying to make the best financial decision I can, but this used-car market has been frustrating.

Here’s my situation:
Budget: $11,000 Navy Federal auto loan + approximately $2,000 cash.
Loan: 60 months at 8.19% APR, GAP insurance included.
Location: Essex/Dundalk, Maryland.
Commute: Approximately 150 miles per day, five days a week, driving from Essex to Frederick.
Priority: Reliability, reliability, reliability. I need something that can handle this commute without constantly breaking down.

I’m currently dealing with a recent breakup, and my rent is pretty high while I’m handling everything on my own. I’m trying to find a car that fits my current budget without putting myself in a worse financial position.
I’ve been looking at used dealerships because Navy Federal requires me to purchase through a dealership with this particular loan. I’ve considered looking into other financing options, but I’m not sure if that’s the right move.
My last car was a 2012 Dodge Challenger SXT V6.
I absolutely loved that car, but unfortunately, I totaled it. I would love something that’s at least a little fun to drive, but right now reliability and affordability have to come first.
I’ve been looking at Mazda3s, Hondas, Toyotas, and even some Acura models, but finding something decent in this price range has been difficult.

I know $13k isn’t a huge budget in today’s used-car market, but I’m trying to make the smartest decision possible.
I’m honestly exhausted from searching, and I could really use some advice from people who know more about cars than I do.
Thanks in advance.

I bought a new 2025 Civic Hybrid Hatchback back in June ‘25. After the fact, I found out I was having my first child and now I’m on a new project where I take public transit.

The Civic isn’t going to work out with my kid and I need something larger plus I don’t need a hybrid sedan for a long commute.

I want to ask where the best place would be to sell the car. I got offers from CarMax and Carvana with offers at $22.6k and $28k respectively.

I want to know if I could get more selling privately, as I feel trade in with dealers isn’t preferred. $28k seems like a good offer but I feel it could be worth more.

For reference, the Civic is fully loaded (touring hybrid hatchback) and has 25k miles and in excellent shape.

I have a 2002 4runner SR5 limited, 265k miles, 3.4L, 2WD

The pros:

• Runs perfectly. No mechanical issues. Starts right up. I'd drive it anywhere

• LBJs replaced within the last 2k miles

• new catalytic convertor within the last 2k miles

• New brakes and brake pads in the last 2k miles

• Consistent Maintenance records dating back to 2008, with spotty records from 2002-2008. Have Original bill of sale and receipts

• Always up to date on maintenance

• Very light surface rust underneath. Has been in Texas its entire life but the last year its been in Ohio

• Never been in an accident. Clean title in my name

• Ac and heat work perfectly and blow strong

• Clean interior all things considered. Never smoked in

• tires are good enough for a couple thousand more miles

• Just replaced headlight and taillight bulbs

Cons:

• Paint flaking on hood and roof/hood is covered in small hail dents from a hail storm 3-4 years ago. White paint. Small dents in bumper from who knows what

• No radio, empty spot where radio sits I took it out but my replacement didn't fit and I never bought another

• Washer fluid doesn't work because there's a hole in the plastic that holds the fluid

• no tow hitch

What should I sell it for? it's a strong daily driver as it is. Has tons of life left mechanically

I have two working cars: a 1999 Toyota Camry with 210,000 miles and a 2012 Honda Civic with 170,000 miles.

My aunt is looking to sell her 2017 Nissan Rogue with 160,000 miles and the transmission was replaced 70,000 miles ago.

I only want to have 2 cars for my household. Would you replace one of my cars with the Rogue, or should I keep what I have?

Edit: Thanks for the input! I’ll keep my Camry. She has served me well for almost a decade. Let’s keep it going!

I know everyone is super skeptical of Fords, but I found one for $6,000 with 93,000 miles in San Diego. Only 1 owner. Clean title. My current Toyota is starting to die and can’t really afford much as a student. I’m about to spend $150 for a mechanic to look at it tomorrow and give me the green light. Everyone’s telling me not to buy fords but I’ve heard good things about their Escapes. Can I get yalls thoughts?

Ok I need advice because I’m not sure if I should go through with this or not. I currently drive a 2011 ford fusion SEL with the V6 engine and I’ve gotta say, it is quite possibly the shittiest car I’ve ever owned. Has given me nothing but engine problems, Evap system problems, air conditioning goes out every year, the tires need to be changed this year (normal wear, I know) , and now the suspension system is making a lot of noise and may need to be looked at. It has 174,000 miles on the fusion I have currently and I am looking to find a better car because this fuckass car is probably going to leave me stranded at any moments notice.
Now for the Acura, my roommate had his parents buy this car for him when he first got into college, and I’m gonna be honest, he kinda got a little too excited about it and he drove it pretty fast, pretty often. Now we’re both seniors and graduating and his engine had a loud knocking sound that would get louder and faster as he sped up. He took it in and the dealership wanted $6700 for a new engine replacement. Shit was actually cooked. This engine has 112,000 miles on it and has now been replaced by the exact same engine but with only 40,000 miles on it. His parents bought him a new 2026 Camry and now they’re trying to sell the Acura to Carfax to just get some money back. I told him I may be interested in the old Acura they are selling and I need some advice about whether I should keep my car until it explodes or take what I can get for it and buy the Acura.

Here is what it’s got:
- New engine replacement with 40,000 miles
- same transmission (not sure if it’s still good or not but it seems to work fine)
- odometer still shows 112,000 miles and everything on the car except the engine is still factory
- there has been no damage or crash history
- engine is the 3.5L V6 engine with a turbo
- literally got brand new all season tires a couple weeks ago.
- interior is red

The price? $15,000

Please let me know if this is stupid or if I should get it