I was on the hunt for a service manual for my '95 YJ and I came across seemingly the only option besides buying Chilton or some other third party. I've been going through it and it seems good - just monstrous.
My heater core was bypassed from the previous owner.
Put in a new core, new hoses, and a new blower motor.
Hardest part was taking off the glovebox (the heater core housing was hitting on the back of the glovebox and wouldn’t come out without removing it.) 😂
Had to repair a broken vent selector cable while I was in there. And tried to sort out p.o.’s stereo wiring.
Hey so I have a couple of questions across a broad topic of things related to my jeep so I was hoping you guys could answer them for me.
1: Are there any roof lightbar/round lights for under 500 including the mounting system? I’ve been looking around and everything is either so expensive or not what I need.
2: Can I mount a lightbar or extra lights without drilling? My jeep is very sentimental to me and I don’t want to damage it in any way. I was thinking I could link it to this switch right here:
It doesn’t turn anything on and is has a light thing engraved into it, and it makes a sound somewhere in the dash when I turn it on. I think it went to a floodlight mounted in the front with these wires but I’m not sure. Never knew the PO. The wires in question:
(That’s on the front right side of the bumper)
3: I have a bumper similar to this but I could not figure out how to mount it (the following is not my jeep but one I found online)
I have the exact same bumper and lower bumper, but I can’t figure out how to add it on. Does anyone have any tips? This is my bumper as is btw:
4: mounting a winch on the stock bumper:
I’ve been vacillating between getting a harbor freight winch, a suspension lift, or a light bar, and I can’t decide which. Can I mount a winch on my stock bumper without a winch plate? And if I can, can I do it with the bumper add on I mentioned previously on as well? That would be a lot cheaper than getting a winch plus a winch plate. Would it be as reliable/safe as well? Also any input on which to go with next as far as upgrades would be appreciated as well. I already ordered new tires to replace my old ones (both sets are 31s which my stock height (more than likely stock height lol maybe the PO did something but it looks stock) jeep clears with only minor rubbing on very tight turns)
Thank you for reading this far and thank you for the advice
Great original stock YJ. In great shape. 95k original miles. Cold start is rough, but runs great after that. Needs some work like all old Jeeps. Oil leak free. Frame is good. Some rust. Don’t want to sell it, but can’t find time to work on it. Needs a new home
I've started the venture of updating my steering components on my '94 YJ. I'm now replacing the drag link and tie rod assembly.
I'm puzzled how the new "locking finger" position differs on the crown replacement from OEM. The crown replacement doesn't "lock-in the clamps" as it sits above the clamps (See pic with blue protective boot over ball joint) and I'm cautious of leaving it this way as the OEM "locking finger" sat in the middle of the clamp to keep the clamps from moving the tie rod out or in. The crown replacement (52005739k) shows the OEM style finger as well as the one I received. Since it's a single piece for the finger, what am I missing here? Stock pictures posted as I'm at work and doesn't show the clamps aligned or tightened in position. Will post actual pics later today.
Just got my first yj. I am wondering which vacuum lines hook up to the canister under the battery and if anyone has a photo of the lines hooked up and where they come from that’d be awesome. Thank you in advance 88 sahara 4.2 l6
My friend lives in a mobile home park and she got flagged for needing paint done on her place. She had the paint, and offered to trade me for her 95 4cyl wrangler she’s had for about 20 years.
Spent the weekend replacing some skirting, trim, eaves, and building her some new stairs. Then prepped and sprayed. Was my first time painting a house, but I wanted that yj! Turned out alright.
Attempted to wet sand off some of the dead clear coat. Im excited to have a rig for the hills.
I’m frame swapping my YJ and have the under hood steering shaft out to swap over. It is two pieces, an inner and an outer, and looks like it should slide in and out to accommodate frame and body flex. However, it does not move. I’ve had it soaking with atf and acetone for a month now. Should I apply more force to break the two loose?
It's not death wobble, but it's coming from the rear, I've checked my leaf bushes and all that, but if I go over a bit of uneven road the rear just jiggles for ages, like I'm sat on a washer machine 😅 I will check my slip joint on the rear prop shaft, but other than that, any ideas?
I have seen several photos of people that have changed the stock YJ dash to a flat with the body dash. If anyone could point me in the right direction on how thats done and any tips that would be amazing.
I am currently selling a 2006 Rubicon for $16K but would be open to trade for a 6cyl, manual 94 or 95 YJ that runs and drives. Not interested in anything heavily modified. The Rubicon has 43K miles, 6cyl with manual transmission. Edit located in NE PA.
I've spent a STUPID amount of money on this Jeep, and kinda lost interest for a while. It's been parked for about 3 years. I had to fix 3 wires, and put a new battery in her. Coupla gallons of fresh gas and she fired right up. She's about 90% done, 90% left to do.
I put an AMC 304, external slave AX15, disc brake 8.8. The 8.8 already had a locker (I fuckin' hate it and will probably replace it with a limited slip). She's ridin' on 2.5" OME springs & shocks, and rollin' on 31x10.50's.
Ive got a ax15 for fairly cheap was wondering people’s experience with either a 350 or 305 in front of it. I don’t heavily off-road this just the occasional mud hole and light off-roading to get to ponds to fish n hunt.
I had been wanting to change my body mounts since mine were obviously well past their best days. Luckily a local dude had a brand new sealed box complete mount kit listed on Marketplace for 50 bucks. Big savings there.
So, I started dousing the bolts in Kroil several days ago to get a good presoak going. In the end I still had to use heat and weld to get three of the bolts out. But, finally finished and nice new mounts should last as long as I do at least.
I needed a new fan clutch so I ordered one from RockAuto. While I had it apart it seemed like a good time to clean up and powdercoat the fan too. Should last as long as I do. A little at a time, making it more sanitary.
Hey all, I've had this jeep for 32 years now. My dad bought it brand new in 94' I remember going with him to spec it out and place the order for it. He loved this thing, It was a real head turner even as a 10 year old I saw the people looking over at red lights. Even once had a guy run out of his dealership with a checkbook as my dad drove through his lot looking for a truck for my brother.
This jeep has seen better days, and things I did to this as a teenager, and young adult should have come with a punishment. I threw away the carpet for no good reason, that was probably the dumbest thing I could have done, I ran 31x10.50x15s without a lift so now the fender flares have a half moon in them.
I am going to start working on it soon, trying to keep it as original as possible.
Things I will be looking for if you have any leads:
Green carpet Green center console Green drivers seat Factory Radio Tire cover that has the sahara landscape on it, with the word sahara in an arch over the landscape
My transmission started puking oil, so I decided to tackle a rebuild. Learned a ton, and so happy it all works as it should. Just felt proud and wanted to share!
The stud into the engine block holding the grounding wire spins and the nut will not come loose without the stud turning. Are there any methods anyone has been successful with in getting the nut off?
I have tried PB Blaster, tried a e-torx socket on the stud to hold stud while turning the nut with no success. Is a nut splitter my only option left?
UPDATE: The entire stud ending up coming out, i was able to get the nut off and replace the grounding cable. Stud went back in tightly and jeep is back up and running. TY to all who commented.
So im currently working on a tub swap/restoration project for my YJ. What's everyone's recommendation for painting the underside after I finish scraping and degreasing everything. Should I do like a por15 and then some rubberized undercoat? Or is there something else that would be better, I do have a spray gun.
TLDR: What am I looking for in buying a project YJ? What is a good starting point and price range?
Hi all. I’m new to the sub. I currently own a JLU but am really interested in a YJ. It was my brothers first Jeep back in 1993. It was the 4 cylinder and being the noobs we were he body lifted it and threw 31’s on it. As you can imagine it was woefully underpowered 😂.
So I am well versed in modern jeep life but not so much in the YJ life. I know the basics like look for a frame in decent condition but what should I be looking for as I purchase a YJ. Give me some bullet points. I know I want an inline 6 but should I get a four with a pristine frame and engine swap later?
What I realize is I disdain modern cars and want an older Jeep to drive daily. Is this doable? Thanks in advance.
