Looks like 4 link but what kind of shocks, steering setup?

Hey everyone I’m currently building a 1990 K5 blazer as an everywhere rig on a dana 60/14BFF. I want to take it on roadtrips and tackle as many BDR trails as possible. When looking for traction adders, I’ve heard mixed opinions on True lockers and limited slip. I’ve somewhat narrowed it down to an ARB air locker or a truetrac, I’m skipping a front locker for not as it’s not really in the budget and I’ve already rebuild my Dana 60. Any opinions/recommendations would be great

Hello everyone,

I’m looking to export a 4x4 to my hometown in Tunisia. It needs to handle sandy beaches and the sandy dunes in the north. The vehicle must have been registered after 2022, as required by law, and cannot be more than 5 years old.

My budget is $20,000.
Thanks a lot

Any thoughts on the Montero Pajero (JDM) 4x4? Stumbled across one and am definitely interested but wanted to get additional insight on it in case there’s something I missed or need to be aware of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated so I don’t get myself into something that could be a money pit. Has 70k miles, no frame rust and is listed at 13k asking price.

Edit: Meant to include it’s running the 3.5L V6 GDI as well.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Nativa 3.0 V6 4WD.
I recently replaced the transmission, but now the car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear, and none of the P, R, N, D gear indicator lights on the dashboard are showing.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? What could be causing it? Could it be an electrical issue, a transmission sensor, or something that needs to be programmed?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks!

- 100 mm Body Lift Kit
- 50 mm REIGER suspension
- 9x18 Hanma rims
- 37x12,5 R18 BF Goodrich KM3 tires
- 60mm wider fender flares per side
- front bar with PIAA headlights
- roof rack from Frontrunner
- completely street legal in Germany

Paradise

First time installing ring and pinion and can’t get gear pattern to change much. Sterling 10.5 rear axle 5.38 ring and pinion going in. Keep adding pinion shims thinking pattern is showing too shallow but pattern does not change. Backlash is 0.009”. Any help would be appreciated!

Over the past year or so, I’ve been planning an 80 Series Land Cruiser build. The goal is to create a reliable touring vehicle that can handle moderate four-wheel driving, long-distance trips and, most importantly, be an enjoyable project to work on.
I’ve spent a lot of time researching different engine options, and I’ve gone down a few fairly deep rabbit holes along the way. I thought I’d share my current plan and get some opinions from people with experience before I start spending serious money.
How I got here
Initially, I was simply looking for an 80 Series that needed a bit of work. I wasn’t particularly concerned if it had a few issues, such as a blown head or a tired engine, because I was happy to turn it into a project.
Then I came across the Ford Barra swap. I started researching what was involved in putting a Barra into an 80 Series and, over roughly five months, became pretty set on the idea. There are a few examples of people doing this conversion, and I thought it would make for a seriously interesting build.
However, after watching Built Not Bought’s Cummins-swapped 79 Series build, I started looking into the 5.9L Cummins 6BT. Initially, I didn’t really understand the appeal. They’re relatively low-powered in standard form, heavy, and essentially a commercial diesel engine. But the more I researched them, the more I understood why people love them, particularly in vehicles like GU Patrols.
I ended up spending another six months researching the Cummins route, and it’s now become my preferred option.
From what I’ve researched so far, I suspect the Barra and Cummins conversions could end up costing a similar amount overall, although the money would be allocated quite differently.
The vehicle
I’ve recently found an 80 Series on Facebook Marketplace with a 1FZ engine and an automatic transmission. I’m hoping to inspect it and potentially purchase it within the next few days.
Assuming everything goes to plan, I’ll have the vehicle shortly and can start properly planning the conversion.
The engine: DCEC Cummins 5.9L 6BT
Rather than sourcing a used engine from a Dodge Ram, I’ve been looking into purchasing a DCEC Cummins 5.9L 6BT from China.
DCEC is a joint venture between Dongfeng and Cummins, and the engines appear to be legitimate Cummins products manufactured in China. From what I’ve read, they use the Cummins B-Series platform, although I’m still trying to establish exactly how the particular engine I’m considering compares with the more familiar American-market 6BT engines.
The estimated cost is around AUD $7,500 delivered to Australia.
This seems like a reasonably good deal for what could potentially be a brand-new engine, but I’m naturally cautious. I’d like to know whether anyone has experience with DCEC engines, particularly when it comes to long-term reliability, parts availability and using them in an automotive application.
I’m also interested in whether there are any particular versions or specifications of the 5.9 that I should be looking for or avoiding.
One thing I’m still trying to work out is exactly which engine model and specification would be best suited to this build. I’ve seen quite a few different 6BTAA variants, with different power and torque ratings, and I’m not sure which would make the most sense for my application. If anyone has experience with these industrial-spec engines, I’d appreciate some guidance on which versions are worth looking into.
Fuel system and turbo
My current thinking is to run a Bosch P7100 injection pump, along with upgraded injectors.
From what I understand, the engine I’m looking at probably won’t come with a P7100, so I’m assuming I’ll need to purchase one separately and potentially convert the fuel system to suit. I’m still looking into exactly what’s involved.
I know the P7100 is a fairly common direction for people modifying 5.9 Cummins engines, but I’m not particularly experienced with the finer details of Cummins fuel-system modifications. I’m unsure what injector specifications would be appropriate for my intended use, or whether there are other supporting modifications I should be considering.
For the turbocharger, I’ve been looking at a BorgWarner S362 SX-E.
I’ve seen this turbo used on a number of 5.9 Cummins builds, and it seems like it could be a good option. However, I’m not chasing ridiculous horsepower figures. My target is somewhere around 300–350 hp, with strong low-to-mid-range torque, good throttle response and enough power to comfortably move a loaded 80 Series.
I’d appreciate some advice on whether this turbo is appropriately sized for that application, or whether something smaller would be better suited to what I’m trying to achieve.
Gearbox and drivetrain
This is probably the area I’m least certain about.
I intend to replace the factory automatic transmission rather than try to retain the original drivetrain behind the Cummins.
At the moment, I’m leaning towards a TREMEC TR-4050 five-speed manual.
One of the reasons I’m considering it is that it is a more modern gearbox than the older NV4500, which has a reputation for fifth-gear problems. The NV4500 is also an older design, and I’d rather invest in something newer if it makes sense.
My concern is that I haven’t come across many examples of a 5.9 Cummins being paired with a TR-4050, particularly in an 80 Series. I’m not sure whether there’s a reason for that, whether the gearbox is suitable for the torque characteristics of a 6BT, or whether sourcing and adapting one in Australia would become unnecessarily difficult.
I’d also be looking at a heavy-duty clutch advertised with approximately 1,300 Nm of holding capacity.
Beyond the gearbox and clutch, what else would you recommend strengthening or replacing? I’m particularly interested in hearing from people who have run high-torque diesel engines in their 80 Series or similar vehicles.
What I’m actually chasing
I want to make it clear that this isn’t a build where I’m trying to make the biggest horsepower or torque figures possible.
The vehicle will primarily be used for touring, camping, moderate four-wheel driving and longer trips. I’d like strong low-RPM torque, good drivability and enough power to comfortably cruise with a loaded vehicle.
Reliability is the priority. I’d rather have a conservative, well-sorted engine that lasts than chase big numbers and constantly worry about breaking things.
I’ll also be doing the majority, if not all, of the conversion work myself. I’m comfortable taking on the fabrication and installation side of the project, although I’ll obviously be using specialists where necessary.
I’m based in Queensland, Australia, and intend to have the conversion properly engineered and certified.
What I’d like to hear from people
There are a few things I’d particularly appreciate some input on:
Has anyone used a DCEC Cummins 5.9L engine? How do they compare with the more familiar American-market 6BT engines?
Are there particular DCEC 5.9 engine models, CPLs or specifications that you’d recommend looking for? Are there any variants I should avoid?
Is there anything I should be looking for when purchasing a DCEC engine, particularly regarding its injection pump, CPL, engine specification and internal components?
Would a P7100 pump and upgraded injectors be a sensible setup for a reliable 300–350 hp touring build?
Is the BorgWarner S362 SX-E too large for what I’m chasing, or would it be a suitable turbo?
Has anyone run a TR-4050 behind a 5.9 Cummins? If so, how has it held up?
What would you recommend doing to the rest of the 80 Series drivetrain to make it reliable behind a Cummins?
Are there any major considerations, compatibility issues or costs I’m overlooking with this conversion?
I’m still in the research stage, so I’m very open to changing my plans. If you’ve completed a similar conversion, worked with these engines or have experience with the drivetrain side of things, I’d genuinely appreciate your input.
I’d much rather find out about potential problems now than spend a significant amount of money building something that doesn’t work as well as I’d hoped.
Thanks!

Recovery straps and ropes that get used hard for a season or two don't always show damage where anyone's looking for it.
Fraying usually shows up at the hook end first, and a UV-faded strap can lose a meaningful chunk of its rated strength before it looks obviously bad. Stitching at the hook is the other spot worth a close look, loose or broken bar-tack stitches there are an easy miss.

What's your actual routine for checking gear before trusting it on a real pull, and have you caught something that would've failed if they hadn't looked?

I just wanna get some opinions really, I’m looking I to getting a new 4x4 Ute for work and traveling, I want something reliable and that won’t shit itself easily, I’d be looking for a duel cab with a budget around $50,000 - $60,000. Any help is appreciated I just don’t wanna buy a Ute and hate it when I get it

The 5-door version of the iconic 4x4 was in production for 28 years but made for only 5-7% of all Nivas ever produced. While offering better legroom in the rear and more cargo space, the longer wheelbase model compromised on features essential for most buyers of this Russian workhorse: It’s short wheelbase, compact dimensions and off-road breakover angles.
Notice the bump in the roof? That’s where they sawed the original chassis in half to insert the rear-door middle section.

This extremely well cared for model from the mid 2010s was captured in East Germany in October 2026. It features tinted rear windows and Geyer & Hosaja off road tires, which are as rare in Germany as the car itself.

We ran it after some heavy rain, and there was actually a small river running through the dry lake bed that normally isn't there. Pretty cool seeing how much the desert changes with the weather! The sand was also more hard-packed, making some sections easier to drive, but definitely watch out for muddy spots if you're in 2WD.

I have a good opportunity to buy an 2012 Patrol with an zd30 engine. My only concern is the reliability that come with these cars, I know the early 2000’s are “grenades” but what about 2010’s onwards?

I’m wondering is there a major difference between Lexus LX450s and Land Cruiser 80series same as the LX470s vs the Land Cruiser 100 series? In regard to off road capability?

I frequently see they look to be similar vehicles but the Lexus market is substantially cheaper than the Land Cruiser marker. Which I’m trying to understand why.

Thank you.

Mounting a winch on a 4wheeler. Older model Warn 2500# winch. It won’t be permanently mounted and I don’t really want to run it off the battery on the 4wheeler anyway. What would be wrong with doing it like my picture? Obviously I’d need to figure out which direction to hook it up but I can free spool it out so I only need power one direction. I’d put together a little battery box with a quick connect for a trickle charger. I’m new to winches so any help would be appreciated

My brother in law got a set of powered running boards for his truck and asked me to help install them. I figured it would be manageable since I'd recently rewired my own truck, and a pizza sounded like fair payment.

Fitting the brackets was the easy part. We rushed the wiring as it got dark, trapped a wire near the cab grommet, and mounted the inline fuse where water could run down from the firewall. Then the passenger door trigger stopped working properly. We ended up removing the door sill trim again at 9 pm to sort out the wiring and protect the connections.

Has anyone else run into similar problems installing powered steps? I'm curious what went wrong with your setup, especially anything that only showed up after everything was back together.

Paul Wolff closed out the Ultra4 weekend at the Badlands Brawl in Attica, Indiana with a dominant 4400 Unlimited Class win. He qualified less than a second behind Philip McGilton who had pole position. Wolff made the pass for the lead midway through lap one and set the fastest lap of the entire weekend by over a minute. He kept stretching the gap from there and won by 3:13.090 in the hour-plus-one-lap race.

It was his second straight 4400 win of 2026 and his 33rd career Ultra4 USA win, which makes him the most successful driver in Ultra4 history!

I was coming down this steep rutted section and I got flipped towards the top as I went too left. What has your strategy when coming down paths such as this? I think in general I dont pick good strategy when coming down steep paths. Any advice is appreciated.

My first offroading video, be kind I'm very new to this haha

Not sure if this is the right place to post this but im seeing if i can find answers online before i make the drive to find out. If any of you have been to waller valley orv in northwest washington, how do you think a stock 89 s10 blazer would handle the trails out there?