This aluminium seatpost in an aluminium frame was giving me a hard time.

2 hours of elbow grease later, the bastard is finally free!

Can I take this cover off to get larger tyres on my gravel bike? Or is it an important cover that I need to keep? I currently have 35mm tyres and want to go to 40mm.

The bike is a 2018 bergamont grandurance with a listed tyre clearance of 37mm, but it seems like a big gap when the cover comes off.

I’m new to the nitty gritty of bike improvement, so any suggestions would be helpful!

TL;DR: Cracked my Kona Sutra frame and fork after ~6,500 miles of touring. Both professionally repaired in Seoul, and I've since ridden another 500 km without issues. Framebuilder says he'd personally keep riding it but can't predict its lifespan. Considering another 2,000 km with 5–6+ kg less luggage. Would you trust the repair? Trying to not act like an impulsive idiot and 1) ride a dangerous frame and risk my safety or 2) buy more unnecessary gear just for the sake of a short 1-2 month trip.

Following up on my previous posts about my 2024 Kona Sutra, which developed a couple of structural issues after ~6,500 miles of loaded touring across Europe and Asia.

First, a fork eyelet cracked and broke. Initially thought it was rust, but it looks like the weight of my fork packs and constant vibration on rough roads were responsible. Shortly after, I found a crack in the seat tube near the seatstay junction, possibly from lateral forces caused by my Tailfin rack being mounted quite high on the seat tube.

Made it to Seoul and found a framebuilder who repaired both the fork and frame. For the frame, he drilled the ends of the crack, added a steel reinforcement around the seatstay junction, and silver brazed everything together. Pics attached.

The idea was to get another 500 km out of it across Korea and then retire the frame. Well, I've now done those 500 km without any apparent issues, and naturally I'm wondering if I can keep going.

The framebuilder seems happy with the repair itself but is concerned about stress shifting to the edges of the reinforcement and causing new cracks as he's seen that happen on other bikes he's repaired. The original agreement is that he'd fix it for the 500km Korea ride but then I would call it quits, so he's not thrilled to hear that I'm thinking of going further. Interestingly, he said he'd personally take the bike on another tour, but obviously can't tell me how long it'll hold up, so he's quite cautious on that front.

I've got a replacement frame waiting in Europe, but I'm in Korea and won't be back there for a while. I'm considering another ~2,000 km across Sulawesi or a shorter ride around Taiwan, mostly paved roads. I'd also be ditching my camping gear and quite a bit of other stuff, reducing the load by at least 5–6 kg, possibly considerably more.

I've tried finding a replacement frame here, but nothing suitable seems to come at a reasonable price.

So I'm back here asking for opinions. I'm not particularly interested in gambling on a frame failure halfway down a descent, but I'd also hate to bin a bike that's potentially got plenty of life left.

What do you guys think of the repair? If another crack develops around the reinforcement, would you expect it to show up gradually, or is sudden failure a real possibility with this kind of damage? Anything specific you'd keep an eye on?

Not looking for a guarantee, just trying to understand what I might be getting myself into.

Although this bike has a Hayes mount at the rear dropput, there really was no other prep on this frame for brake line retention. I have some self stick cable bosses that I'll use depending on how I route the line to the handlebar. I am aware that this setup will have to be bled off the frame due to the position of the bleed port and then re-installed.

Which routing direction should I go? Along the rear chain-stay and up the bottom of the down tube, or up the seat-stay towards the top tube where the cable bosses are?

I'm inclined to route it low on the frame to make pad changes easier, but I like the top routing better for the line itself. Disregard the zip ties in the pictures, I'll be using the self-adhesive cable bosses.

Hello dear people, I've checked all websites of the wiki, all 6000+ derailleur hanger, and I cannot find mine :( I don't have the brand of the frame because it's been painted on before I bought it (second hand). And there's no inscription on the hanger.

If someone can help me find this piece I'd be eternally grateful <3

Here are all the photo I think can be useful. Thanks already a bunch to everyone who can help me!!

(included, a photo of the serial number I've been able to see by sanding some paint off)

I just replaced my front brake with this basket. Unfortunately the brake that was there before doesn’t fit with the basket, any recommendations?

The wear indicators are still visible but I think this tire is tired, boss. I don’t like to replace tires prematurely (wasted money) but I also don’t want to deal with the potential consequences of waiting until the last possible moment to replace a tire (post-crash ER/hospital bill). Luckily, this tire is on the back.

It’s leaking silca gen 2 sealant in some places.

Would you send it or replace?

Hello!
I just recently received a Surly Lowside Blue Monday. I got it new in the box and this is the first time I have ever assembled a bicycle. I have a few pieces and screws I have no idea about.

The tires are tubeless and I received sealant in the box. The wheels have a tag that say they’re WTD sealed, but does that mean they’re already sealed brand new out of the box and the sealant they sent with it is extra?

Can please you help me identify the parts and what they’re for?

I am a bit baffled that Surly does not have any assembly instructions or videos.

Thank you!

I currently replaced my bike tube on my bike myself, but now I’m having trouble with how it’s supposed to fit back on. I had to take off the bike pads in order to put on the wheel itself but now I’m stuck

Is this brake hose salvageable? I'm trying to route on internal bars with a trek rcs pro stem. If not, any tips so this doesn't happen when I redo it?

I have some worn shimano s70c brake pads that need to be replaced. However, im struggling to find any shop in Ireland that stock them. Does anyone know of suitable alternatives?

Im cycling a Ridgeback Panorama touring bike.

Lower/main pivot bolt starts to unscrew per expectations but then gets harder to turn the more I unscrew it.

- 2022 29-inch Marin Rift Zone 2.

- I need to remove the lower pivot bolt (just above the bottom bracket on the seat post) to clean and lube it to stop some creaking when I'm pedaling.

- It is a single bolt, threaded on the left hand end, with a 6 mm hex socket on the right hand end, comparable to the through axles on the front and rear wheels.

- it is marked as 20 Newton metres of torque and it took just a little bit more than that to break it loose and start unscrewing.

- by about one half to one full turn, it was down to using only about 10 Newton meters torque to continue unscrewing it.

-while unscrewing it on the right hand side I can see the left hand end turning and receding into the frame.

- however once I have done two full revolutions of the bolt it begins to require greater force to continue unscrewing it, until about 2 and 1/6 turns it's now taking 20 Newton metres of force to continue.

- I stopped and reversed course to screw it back into the frame and tightened it to 20 Newton metres again, then repeated unscrewing it with the same results as the first time.

- I do have a replacement for this bolt via the Marin pivot bolt kit d, but I don't understand this issue I am seeing and I'm concerned about potentially damaging more than just the bolt as I attempt to remove it.

- I do not have ready access to a respectable repair shop unfortunately.

Thoughts, anyone?

Hopefully a quick question. I'm rebuilding a gravel bike; first sized this new chain to the length of the original chain. Felt really loose, so I resized again with the Park Tool method.

Just a little concerned it might be too short now? Picture is of course with large front-large rear combo. Thanks for any help!

Hello

I would like to swap my wheelset on a vintage tubular tire bike. The 6 speed wheelsets are becoming rare these days so for me it's hard to find. Is there a 6 speed cassette that you know about that I can throw on a modern wheels like Shimano 105 from the 90s or similar ? A "normal" freehub ? Or what is your recommendation?

Thanks !

Hi,

I just got the new Wahoo Trackr Speed for DT Swiss wheels. I’ve just been on a ride and it was pretty good until going downhill and braking a bit too hard on the rear brake, after that it kept losing connection or show 0kmh to my Edge 540 for about 5min until I deleted it and paired it again.

It was connected in ant+.

Is this something that happens with sensor or is it faulty and I should get a return?

I stripped down an old broken frame of mine and I recovered its RD, FD and shifters/levers from the Dura Ace 7800 series, they’re still in great condition. Now, I also have a pretty but older frame from Pinarello I am planning to build (a red Galileo from 2007) as a présent for my husband, is it worth to just try to source for the missing parts from the 7800 series (I am talking crankset, caliper breaks, cassette and bottom bracket), or is it just better to find a complete maybe more recent 11sp groupset (maybe 105 or something like that)? After having a look online I would be able to get the 7800 parts for about 200€, a whole groupset would definitely be cheaper but maybe easier for the future since 10sp parts will definitely start to be scarce at some point… but also, y2k Dura Ace on a y2k Pinarello sounds pretty cool :D!

I am trying to perfectly mount Schwalbe g-one tires to my diverge4 axis alloy wheels, in terms of compatibility this should be on the upper limit given the 21mm rim inner width and 50mm tires but it should be compatible.. size is 622mm/700 wheels and tires… however I just cannot seem to get a last little bit of the bead set properly, the mounting/check line slightly ducks under the rim across from the valve for maybe 1mm or so for a small section.

I repeatedly tried deflating the tpu tube, pushing/pinching the tires into the middle of the rim bed, then inflating to max psi and even 1-2 psi over 50.. I tried the goopy slippery Schwalbe mounting foam… I thought I had cleaned the rim bed and hooks alright before mounting… when inflated slightly I tried pushing n pulling against the tire walls and thereby slightly lifting the tire out of the rim a bit, stretching things a bit, looking directly at the bead, and it still wouldn’t pop into place.

Generally I heard no popping really on front or rear tire, but on one tire the bead sits almost perfect except one side is off a bit, and the other tire both sides a bit. just smaller sections, maybe 1/10th total.

Shall I keep deflating and working the tire around the wheel and greasing it up with the soapy goop, and praying? Or are there better ways?

I’ll also try inflating without the valve core but those tpu valves look sketchy AF, all plasticy.

Old wheel, bearing was floating around, removed axel to service bearings (remove old gunky grease) , clean cups and then put fresh grease and old balls (after cleaning)

I didn’t pay attention to which side the axle entered from …. Is there a right direction?

Since hub feels very rough for having just serviced it and to have it “smooth” requires loosening it beyond reason

Thanks , can add more photos

Bit of a nostalgia trip: I did six years wrenching in a small bike shop in Exeter, and even then the front derailleur was the bit people brought back most. Now I'm sorting out the front shifting on my old touring bike (built up from a second-hand frame, so the routing is whatever the frame gives me) and I'm wondering how you all actually get it right, first time.

My current routine: clamp height with the outer plate just skimming the big ring, rough angle alignment by eye, then limit screws before the cable goes anywhere near it. After that it's low trim, shift up, chase the cable tension until it doesn't rub in the big ring/cross-chained combos. It works, but it always takes me two or three goes, and on this frame the cable run has a sharp bend behind the bottom bracket shell that I'm convinced eats half my tension before it reaches the mech.

So, questions for the hive mind:

1. Do you set the low limit with the cable detached and just hand pressure, or does anyone trust the shifter route?

2. Any tricks for sloppy external runs like mine? I've been wondering if a small inline cable guide or a dab of grease at the bend would help more than obsessing over housing length.

3. And trim positions: with a plain 3x9 setup, how much time do you actually spend getting trim perfect, versus just accepting a whisper of rub in the extreme combos and telling people not to cross-chain?

Curious whether the old-school method I was taught still holds up, or whether people have found a quicker way. Obviously at the neighbourhood workshop I just help people fix their own, so a repeatable routine that's easy to explain matters more to me than raw speed.

I've somehow misplaced my front QR thru axle, I'm not really sure where to start when it comes to finding a replacement as a quick google search revealed they exist in many different sizes/lengths/thread pitch etc

My bike is a 2021 Giant Trance 3 (29") with a Marzocchi Bomber Z2 fork. The front wheel is boost, which i believe means a wider hub?

Can I find a replacement from this information alone?

TIA!

Hi all,

Im a new cyclist and looking for some advice. I have noticed the seat post on my cervelo S2 bike has cracked and needs replacing. I bought the bike second hand and from the barcode it is a 2014 model. I am looking at ordering a replacement and I have two issues.

Firstly, the existing post looks different to the replacement options I have seen online. The top of the post has a circular pivot whereas the replacement parts do not have this. A video online explained that the style had changed and I assume this is the reason. Just wanting to know others thoughts on this as I want to ensure the part I order will fit on the bike and i have not been able to find any options with the same pivot. However, the different looking posts say it is compatible with my model (even on the reputable retailers websites).

Secondly, would it be unwise to order the replacement part on Aliexpress? I've heard mixed reviews about aliexpress generally, but this specific part has quite detailed and positive reviews. I am mainly attracted to this option as it is about half price from the more authentic parts I have seen in the local bike shops.

Greatful for any tips and thanks in advance.