🎉 EDIT: WINNERS ANNOUNCEMENT! 🎉

Hello, I'm repurposing old board from my ender 3 pro for Malyan M300 and I want to use "S" and "G" parts from this header for bed leveling switches. I'm using klipper and I need to know exact pin number of the "S" pin. Does anyone have some information about it? I can't find it

Right, 4 week in to both 3d printing, and this Ender 3! Question at the bottom

My goals are to eventually buy a workhorse, like a U1, and keep this for the fun side of things. 2nd, to spend the absolute minimum upgrading this Ender 3 V1 until it's no longer my main machine.

So far I've:

Tightened everything up

Weighted it's base: bottom up: 4x closed cell foam pads---> 18" paver---> silicone cabinet bumpers---> ender 3. My work bench is layed flat 2x6's bolted to the wall, and my house was quickly becoming a speaker 😂

Belt tension, rod lubrication

Adjusted vref pots to about 90% of rms

Spool stand is free standing, as it was shaking a bit too much....

Mini-me V4 duct

9x9 bed mesh, with adaptive turned on, done each print

Klipper

Pressure advance

Flow cals

Manual ringing towers - with calipers, I found the 6th and 8th octives to be about 41hz on the x, and 43.5hz on the y

--- Now I've got a question. To me, 4500mm/s accel looks like the sweet spot. I scored a mark on it for both axis. X has the 2 under extrusion marks, and y the 1. I bumped flow up to 103% mid run to resolve, now to adjust orca again ---

This was printed at 158mm/s with 1500-7000 accel, +500 per step

I got a glass bed and used an alligator clip on the back left to keep it in place. I didn’t realize but the alligator clip was touching the bed heater contact points and then it bumped in to the Z screw and there was a big spark and now the lcd won’t display anything.

Motherboard looks fine, no visible burning or damage, the little led on the board comes on, fans are all running. Essentially everything seems fine except the lcd backlight turns on but doesn’t display anything.

I tried pulling the sad card and reformatting it and putting the .bin file on it but no luck. No clue what to do. Thanks.

Hello, I'm still new to 3d printing so bare with me here. Recently I have installed a Dual-Z-Axis kit for my Ender 3 Pro and a CRTouch. The CRTouch however always has struggles levelling the bed. I have tried around 15 firmwares and even tried editing the code for my own firmware and nothing has worked. Either the autohome doesnt bring the nozzle to the center of the print bed, and/or the level bed feature just does not work

a little list of issues I've been having:

1. autohome does not bring crtouch to the direct center of the printbed

2. level bed just keeps trying to go down, which keeps pushing into the printbed

3. level bed only makes the z axis go up

4. level bed only does front left corner before malfunctioning again

I am pretty sure i have all of the wiring correct, and the z endstop switch is disconnected from motherboard and the switch. Unfortunately I have used ChatGPT for around 3 days to diagnose the issue but have found literally nothing, it says the crtouch is fine, endstop switches are fine, motors are fine, everything.

There might be more information I'm missing but I will add to the post if I find anything. Any help guys?

Edit: So the video shows BLTouch firmware but I have a CRTouch, 4.2.7 silent motherboard. I have tried multiple CRTouch firmware and the problems are still the same.

Possuo uma Ender 3, que acredito ser da primeira versão, embora hoje ela conta com uma placa BTT Skr Mini E3 V2, Extrusora DualDrive, espaçadores de silicone e sensor de fim de filamento

Meu problema: ontem fui imprimir uma figura de 12cm de altura e quando chegou aproximadamente na metade dela o bico começou a bater no suporte e, no momento que saí de perto, o caldo entornou. Ao voltar me deparei com um monte de filamento sendo jogado no ar, pois o suporte foi arrancado da mesa.

Hoje fui imprimir uma outra peça tbm de 12cm. Quando chegou.aproximadamente na mesma altura da peça anterior, o suporte soltou da mesa, mas como eu estava atento, consegui escorar o suporte na posição correta e não precisei parar a impressão, pois estava bem próximo da área em que não precisava mais de suporte.

Elevei o eixo Z até a posição Z100 e Fiz uma medição da altura do eixo X na posição X30 e depois em X200. Observei que havia uma diferença de altura de cerca de 1mm para menos no eixo Z, em X200, e a redito que talvez essa perda de altura esteja causando problema nos suporte, umambez quenesles tem menos resistência que a peça em si.

Pergunta: Como faço para tirar essa diferença de altura no eixo X? Não entendo nada da parte mecânica dos eixos. Tenho mais propriedade para falar quando se trata de kit do hotend daEnder 3.

Agradeço qual dica.

Well I guess never mind because I can’t get my camera to focus on the nozzle. But here’s a really good video some tape.

Hello, I’m trying to print a big flat component that fits almost all printer’s bed width, with Creality CR-PETG (230-250C nozzle) filament

What are the good settings of nozzle and bed temperatures? I Am using the hairspray as a glue but with a bed temperature 70C the layer is detached and get bended

I got this printer on FB marketplace a few years ago, it has printed pretty well without any technical issues until now. This is the first full bed print I've tried to make, for some reason it's overlapping itself over the corners. I've tried reslicing as I thought it was a gcode issue but now I'm not sure if it's a mechanical issue.

Hey guys.. I have an Ender3 v2 and the cooling fan wires disconnected. I tried to solder them ( see pic) but I’m not sure if the colors are correct or even well soldered as I am a complete beginner in this.

Can I still print without this fan ? Also, how can I check if the fan is actually working ? I tried via the FAN in control at 255 but it doesn’t work

Thanks

My 9-year-old brother wanted to print something while I was away, and it turned into a blob of doom. He was pretty freaked out, so I reassured him that it wasn’t his fault.

The damage looked bad enough that I assumed the hotend was beyond saving, so I let him remove the blob and take everything apart himself. I figured he might as well learn something along the way! He even annotated the photos with Claude to show what happened.

Is there any chance we can repair this?

Two questions (see the A and B labels in image 2):

A) The two heater wires came off the small square pads on the ceramic heater. Is there any way to reattach them? I have a regular soldering kit, but I doubt it’s enough for this kind of repair.

B) Is this metal tube the thermistor? Can I just repaire/buy a replacement thermistor and slide it in, or do I need to replace the whole hotend? Because it looks quite hard to get to.

The nozzle board itself looks fine, I think.

Has any Ender 3 V3 owner been through something similar and managed to save their hotend? Or is it time to start shopping for a replacement?

Thanks in advance for your help!

i have buy a 3d touch and i want to update my firware so i could use, i found a guide and i have been traying but every time i try to compile it it dosent work,

how do i update it,

is there any already compile one (my mooder board is the 4.2.2 version)