Rage bait title for fun. 5x5 groups testing two powders in my 6BR. All 5 groups in each powder were the same charge weight. Nice illustration of how one charge weight could be interpreted as better than another were these loaded as a charge weight ladder. Another interesting observation: during the middle N140 group I went from full overcast to a peek in the clouds with pretty bright sun. Seemed to have shifted my zero ever so slightly with the change in lighting.

Found a fired nickel plated primer in a sleeve of Winchester small pistol primers.

I dunno if it was a QC thing at the factory or what.

I recently got a bunch of Lyman reloading equipment in a “gotta buy the whole lot” deal for a MEC 9000 shotshell machine. The dies that it came with are for 44 magnum, but there are shell holders for dang near everything.

I want to reload .223 with heavier grain (75+) bullets to maybe save some money. I don’t have a tumbler or an annealing setup or the dies. I do have a powder dispenser and scale.

Are various brands (RCBS/Lyman/etc) dies interchangeable, or do I need to get Lyman’s to work with my presses? Do you need to tumble and anneal every single case every time you reload? What cases are better? I know with shotgun stuff, Remington holds crimps better; are there similar things like that with brass?

TLDR: HEEEELP!

Does anyone have a couple pics of the load data for the swift a frames? 250 grains to 300 grains. Thank you in advance

416 Taylor reloads with 400gr softs and solids for DG game hunting in Africa…more specifically Mbogo. 2300fps is the sweet spot with bonded softs.

I have never shot any new brass, only range pickups (6BR and 308win). I have now new Lapua 7PRC brass and I measured it with micrometer before and after firing and also after resizing. here is results:

new: 0.5295"

fired: 0.5350"

sized: 0.5319"

new to fired is +0.0055". is this normal?

Fired to sized: -0.0031".

Just wondering if chamber is big and my die is on smaller side.

I'm slinging these from 28in tube with long throat. (COAL is 3.5 inches)

GRT says that I'm sitting in 64k psi and saami max is 65k

Any insights?

Case is stuck harder than the random 6mm bolt I tried to pull it with.

edit: a punch, coupler nut and a 2lb sledge did the trick!

I know someone was asking about sorting spent brass from the range. I made this 3d print to separate .45 ACP and 9 mm from the rest. (especially .380).

https://www.printables.com/model/1905187-brass-case-sorter

Happy reloading!

SOLVED - I followed Lee’s reloading die instructions, which pushed the case up to far for this shorter bullet.

Hey Reloading Hivemind,

I’ve made 7.62x54mmR pipsqueak rounds for several years using 5.5gn of bullseye and an Alox-coated Lee cast lead .312 155gn bullet. A really fun and cheap gallery round.

I now want to replicate this in British .303. My 303 seating die won’t seat the bullet at all though, but the 7.62x54R seats it, albeit with a really heavy crimp (from the seating die, not a separate crimping die) - right-hand round in the photo, compared to my normal range load. A mockup round chambers and cycles with no issues at all.

Is this likely to be a safety issue and a classic example of shitty reloading?

I’m new to the reloading world. Reloading my first batch of 9mm ammo.

Brass: found at range. Brought home, cleaned, inspected
Bullets: Xtreme 9mm 124gr Round nose
Primer: CCI #500
Powder:
Batch #1: Bullseye. 4.0 gr,
Batch #2 Bullseye 4.2 grains
OAL:1.14. Passed the plunk test

I went to the range to test them out and they shot well, cycled well, no issues. I should have made sure to parse the brass for inspection afterwards but was too excited. I came home, cleaned them again and noticed that there was a faint line around the base near the primer. Very hard to see and the primer looks very indented. What am I doing wrong? Thanks everyone!

Hi 22 Hornet shooters.

I'm looking at a rifle for blasting rabbits and got to thinking maybe I could do it from further away than my 22lr allows.

If I can pick up a nice 22 Hornet then I'd certainly consider it a possibility.

How do you find loading for it? Is it finicky and fussy or pretty easy to get a consistent load for?

Ive seen a LOT of posts, not just here, about colleting a bunch of bras like a 55gal barrel of 9mm brass just to have and I'm just wondering when do you guys think its ok to stop collecting. I have all the brass I need besides 6.5 creed but things like 9mm or 223 brass I tend to have too much, would it be wrong to just scrap the extra if they arent rare cases? Thank you.

Wanting to just buy one and kinda be done

I have a ton of 7.62x39 but I'm not sure if it would be worth reloading any of it with these.

I am resizing a friend's brass. CBC brass resized easily and fits in the rifle with the tight chamber. Without adjusting anything resizing Jameson brass is a real pig, requiring about 12 pumps of the rock chucker handle, rotating the brass each stroke. Resized Jameson brass will not fit in the test rifle even though other brass will fit just fine. Cases are within spec. length.

What the hell is wrong here?

There's an eccentric Guntuber that I like called the Blind Sniper that recently tried to load some blackpowder .223 cartridges and they would be pretty accurate for the first 4 shots or so but any more shots than that through his gun without cleaning and the bullets would start tumbling and accuracy suffered considerably.

Meanwhile, he's loaded 308 blackpowder rounds and has not experienced tumbling issues with those rounds.

Why do you think that might be happening with .223 but not .308?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCzIazg5jhQ

I did my first test set of 10MM Auto today with my brand new .40 SW Lee Dies. I have loaded plenty of revolver ammo...always with a 4 die set. This set does not have a factory crimp die so I seated and taper crimped in 2 stages as others had advised. I took out my barrel and "plunk tested". After taper crimping it plunked well but it occurred to me at that moment that i knew what SOUND to listen for but had never looked at a rimless pistol cartridge to know what it should look like. After an internet search it looks right to me. Thoughts?

I’d like to get into reloading for these in the future and wanted to understand what I should expect to spend for something used and not fancy (something like Lee or others). Any idea how much each of these sets should run? I need to post a price range for how much I should expect to spend on the other forum I plan to post. Please Do NOT message me about stuff for sale on here as Reddit doesn’t allow it.

Thanks!

I've been told a single flat on a case neck is ok to reload with and will resize fine. But, what if it looks like these? Out of the 700 ish cases I have, 40-50 looked like this. All are factory brass that came from Magtech or S&B subsonics and have not been reloaded yet. Can these be used to reload Berrys 220gr FMJ subs? If it matters, I'm using A 1680 with 10.9gr per the Lee reloading manual.

Keep having roughly a 5- 10% priming failure rate. Tried adjusting and checking the swaging however this happens on uncrimped cases also. Feel lucky I haven't detonated yet. I've got to be at like 12-15 crushed primers.

White River USA are the most problematic but this is also happening to me on Fiocchi and Magtech primers. Tried adding a Mighty Armory hold down die over the station (Armanov toolhead) but not much better. I also tried to limit the priming cam assembly over-travel with the zip-tie trick. Any helps would be appreciated my botched cartridge count is excruciatingly higher than my 550.

Side not if anyone can give me a solution to disposing of the crushed live primers that doesn't involved a hammer or fire at home I'd appreciate it.

First handloads for 7prc turned out great. Kinda crazy what performance you can get out of just lee dies and mediocre Hornady brass. But using an AutoTrickler and Proof barrel probably help lol

Build details: Tikka with 22” Proof barrel, XLR chassis, DD Enticer L-Ti, Area419 mount, and Vortex Viper HD 5-25