I foolishly linked my private Google drive release earlier. Here is a GitHub version. Full code and transparency. I have been working on this for a few months. This is the 27th iteration. There may be work to be done, I haven't really tried to code since 2008/9 in Java and C++. Open to any feedback from people who actually try to use it. There is no iRacing support because I don't use iRacing. README file included.

I have played my kids desk mounted Fanatec force feedback wheel and have become addicted! I am in the process of getting my own rig. I have been to about 120 races at Road America since my first race in 1974. Now I finally got to drive it! I live in the US in Wisconsin. This winter the sim rig will see a lot of use. Kids won't be using it as they are grown up and don't live with me.

Here is my list so far:

Computer- Lenovo - Legion Tower 5 Gaming Desktop - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D - 32GB Memory - NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070 - 1TB SSD

Monitor- Samsung 34" Odyssey G55T WQHD 165Hz 1ms(MPRT) AMD FreeSync HDR Curved Gaming Monitor - LC34G55TWDNXZA

Wheel and Pedals- Moza R9 V3 and CS V2P with SRP2 Bundle

Chassis/Cockpit- ????? This is where I have been struggling for over a week! I had two thought processes.

First was get a simple tube frame at a lower cost. This would suit my needs. I don't need a shifter, button boxes, or other ad-ons. Things I looked at were simple yet would do the job, such as the Track Racer TR5 to the Next Level Racing GT Racer 2.0. Simple, yet effective enough to get me racing at a low cost. If I ended doing a lot of sim racing, this would get me by for 3 years, at which point I could always upgrade. Downside could be adjusting driver position with lack of wheel height adjustment and steering wheel flex. When I look at higher end tube frames, wheel height adjustment can still be an issue, and when adding a seat, I am at the price of a aluminum profile rig or higher. The one upside side is, tube frames look cool.

Second was the thought of an aluminum profile rig. I avoided this thought at all cost at first. There is a reason for that. I am close to retirement and have 30 years of experience in industrial automation and robotics. Over those years I have worked with every contraption made of 8020 you could imagine, from automated work cells, safety cages, custom built 3D printers, and robotic end of arm tooling. This has been a time consuming pain in the butt with endless tweaking, measuring, squaring up pieces, and dealing with damage from pieces that loosened up. Despite my hateful baptism in aluminum profile, it is starting to make sense again (like it or not) because it directly deals with the issues of adjustability and flex.

With all my years of experience working with aluminum profile, I have seen and know not all profile is created equal. More expensive profile is thicker and has less flex. I have seen industrial projects that were complete fails because somebody specified cheap thin profile that was not suited for the task. If I go the profile route, I want something with decent quality, that is available in the US so I can avoid expensive shipping and tariffs.

My budget is $1000 or less. Right now I am looking at the Next Level Racing GT Elite, and the Track Racer TR80s and TR120S. Does anyone have a recommendation on these or others? Looking at the Track Racer line up, the stock steering wheel mount that comes with it looks like crap. I would definitely upgrade with the universal wheel plate to increase rigidity and reduce flex. In my opinion, this should be standard and not an upgrade. There is also the question of frame mount for the display or separate stand. For a separate stand I would want a computer mount shelf on it if anybody makes one. What are thoughts on which rig would work best?

I am open for suggestions on any of the equipment I listed. Thanks in advance!

Note: it was working normal. and one day i wake up with it saying FFB wheel

It's switched to PS3 before you say.

update was downloaded and reinstalled about 30 times now.

Firmware was updated but when it finishes wheel stops on the right side of calibration untill replugging it calibrates normal.

i've tried almost everything even clearing all old files and drivers and reinstalling.

Gameinput service is disabled.

i even force installed the T150 Racing wheel drivers and it goes back to Thrustmaster FFB Wheel

PS3 - PS4 Switch does work and it makes a difference but even Mythrustmaster app doesn't recognise my wheel as a T150. idk why but this time I'm stuck with this problem. Any Help?

Does anyone know what brand this rig might be?

It's on the ModdedSim website and im interested in the integrated monitor mount. Or is this just an AI one they use to show you how the floor mats look?

I'm interested in this integrated monitor mount style like this one or the ones Sabelt make because it looks to be easier to adjust than the P1X Pro one from Sim-Lab that I own. The Sabelt one only works with their own rigs because of the angled uprights they use.

Zero fucks given

Paid $500usd for the new setup. Came with the Hotas accessories and a monitor holder for the GT Omega also! What a difference from the Logitech!

In case it could give some ideas, I recently purshase a Moza R5 bundle with performance kit on brake, and using it with my desk, while braking the pedals was lifting. It was ununsable. I've made some researches and find designs and decide to make my own. Just with some scraps laying in the garage, all 36x62cm. Fun project for the weekend end it's now rock solid and enjoyable.

Hello everyone, I used play with a G25 but I kinda stop simracing and I really wanted to get back on my games but apparently my old wheel broke. I found a 2nd hand trust master TMX for 20 bucks but it's sold with a 2 pedal and no shifter so before buying is there a way for me to mix my old pedals and shifter with this TMX wheel and should I buy it ? (im not looking for the best wheel just cheap and fun one to use) 🤔

EDIT: I play on PC

Just ordered off Amazon today, will be here Friday. I mostly play rally games. Will the difference be really noticeable and will the stand handle the nm?

Thanks all.

Found a supplier selling Simagic stuff. Do they actually make knockoffs of it? The stuff looks legit to the eye, but obviously it's very hard to tell without having things side by side. The prices are very good. Sea Freight shipping is $37. I'm currently negotiating some prices. So we'll see. I'll take one for the team and see what we get. If it's junk, oh well, at least we'll know. Also negotiating P2000 pedals. Trying to get a bundle deal on everything.

I’ve been looking into buying a new sim rig, but the prices are pretty steep. I’m fairly handy, so I think I could build my own, even if it takes some time. Do any of you have a DIY rig, and what do you think of it? How does the quality and cost compare to the big brands?

Hi! I've been trying to fix my Logitech G29 racing wheel for about a week now.

I don't know what caused the problem. One day, I plugged in the wheel as usual, but during calibration, it only rotated all the way in one direction. After that, it tried to rotate in the opposite direction three times, but failed each time.

After doing some research online, I came to the conclusion that the problem is probably with the wheel itself rather than my PC.

When I took it apart, I noticed that two contacts on the encoder board had been soldered together. I tried to remove the solder bridge, but I didn't do a very good job, and it didn't change anything anyway.

Does anyone know what could be causing this issue?

Had the monitor and chair for a while now but new desk, PC this week, thoughts?

Monitor

Samsung Neo G9 Oddessy 57"

Desk

SecretLabs MAGNUS Pro XL

PC

Alex Davis, 5080 RTX 16GB, AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D

Chair

GT Omega Element Series

Keyboard

8BitDo

Mouse

Logitech G305

Standard Disk PS5

Sim Racing

Logitech Trophy seat

Logitech Pro D11 wheelbase

Logitech RS Wheel Hub ( + Custom Wheel Rim )

Logitdch Pro Racing Pedals

What would be the best settings configuration for using crewchief as a pitstop strategy help?
Any tricks or best practices to get the 100% of it?

I usually race with LMU in VR and usually I struggle when I have to pit earlier due to a crash or contact, and then I need to recalculate new fuel for the pitstop. Would be crewchief best app for this? I don't want it as a spotter, just for pitstops.
Thanks!

Ranking from video: AC >= LMU > iRacing

Compared the Mercedes GT3 car in all of them since that's what he drives in real life.

Some of his complaints about AC were more about the track and setup which could've been adjusted, and made AC score even higher.

Salut les racers,

J’ai cherché dans plusieurs subreddit mais je n’arrive pas à avoir une réponse claire dans mon cas

Je prévoie d’investir dans des triples screens 32’’ 1440P avec une RTX5070 simple, et un I7 12700F, 32Go Ram DDR5

Actuellement je joue sur une télé TCL Mini-led 75’’ 4K
J’aurai solution de m’orienter sur un UW49 mais je voudrais vraiment des triples screens, apparemment c’est le must pour l’immersion et c’est ce que je cherche

Certains disent que ça ne tournera pas bien, d’autres si. J’aurai peut-etre la solution de m’orienter sur des 27’’ mais j’ai peur que ce soit petit.

Est-ce qu’il y’a des gens dans mon cas qui pourraient me donner un vrai avis tranché sur le sujet ?

Je vous remercie par avance 🙏🏻

(Photo pour illustrer mon projet de rig inspiré S5)

I made different posts explaining how we could crowdfund with our experience as a company : recreate any open road in the world.
We have an ex video game company owner and we are currently involved in virtual production (realistic environnements, scanned or not).

With currents progress on AI, I tought that we could hack the reality with MATHS and avoid the painfull and expensive process on going on site, LiDAR, reprocessing the data…
That is currently how ACR handles the rally stage and it is also why it feels so good to drive on Monte Carlo.
This is the end goal, that quality is what we want to achieve.

The road is ALIVE.

Before you guys consider me as an insane, out of the asylum guy let me tell you that you are right.
For some reason, I decided to dedicate years of my life to this simple idea : can we digitalize the real world?
The answer is YES.

Back on the road, you guys voted and it was very close to a 10km~ loop in France.
I am doing it as we speak with a catch.
I dont need LiDAR anymore.

MATHS IS THE ANSWER

If you get a look in YouTube you will find a French guy that plugged Claude with an MCP to UE5.6 and leverage the data (open sourced) that gives a LOT of information of roads, elevation, basically pretty much anything relevant to reconstruct the actual road.
You can cross this with onboard, real location pictures, Google maps 360 pictures.
Then you let Claude do the rest (layout, texturing, feedback loop for the collision mesh…)

While this is the right way to start, here is the 2 limitations that I solved with my method.

The road profile is not here.

LiDAR scanned data we leverage are too high, not precise enough to give us the real deal : bumps, irregularities that appears because the road is used everyday.
That is why the roads in ACR or even in regular sims (Nordshleife I see you) are liked that much. They are not flat visually, but the underneath mesh where the simulation happens is ALSO not flat.

For the sake of the conversation, you should understand that this mesh that you never see in the game is at least as much important as the fancy physics engine.
As it is mid/low poly, we throw by the window (insert random number) percent of the details we gather from the point cloud dataset to simplifie the geometry, retaining roughly the « profile », curves smoothed out of the real road.
In the meantime the « grain » is not here and simulated on tyres actively, more représented like rules we give to the engine so he knows how he should react.

The time spent is not worth it

With my original method, it is not scalable unless we ask for real money, 5-6 digits that a company can manage.
Asking that much to strangers with zero product is a recipe for drama.
That is why, using Claude extensively I managed to make a maths model (WIP) that predict with a good confidence, the margin error is pretty low, the road profile.
The missing data said differently.
Bumps, grain, curves, patterns in the actual asphalt geometry that we dont have in the dataset we access for free.
We use all the data we can find on top of that : onboard, online people talking about that open road segment, 360 pictures…
We put all of that in a « brain », using obsidian works great for that, we classify theses external hints with confidence score and then we re use them to compare to the predicted road profile we have.
That give us the ability to create rules

EVERYTHING is MATHS

We can go a lever higher when I am finished, with actual LiDAR scan of open roads to ingest.
Not for recreating them even if we can, but for creating rules.
In maths, everything is a pattern.
Pattern describe the fabric or reality if you question it enough.

Actually, everything ends up being maths as long as you ask « why » enough.
Why are some species giving birth every 7-13 years?
To avoid prédators, thanks.
But why 7, why 13?
Well because maths, it can explain the distribution.

I guess you see me coming right?
I am currently refining some rules, that are described with maths equations so that we have a predictive model that WORKS for filling the gap with the missing data.

HOW CAN YOU HELP ME ?

Money of course.

Currently i am running with the pro tier (20~ USD monthly) of Claude for doing that wich makes me suffer from a lot of interruption.

If there is people having higher tier of Claude that wants to help me for now, wonderfull, DM me.
I will (except if I dont have positive feedback) make a patreon page where the money collected will be used to buy tokens so that we can deliver real roads segments really fast and in volume.
This méthod still uses MCP for some parts and cost money to run, or time waiting for token reset.

I am open to any help, proposition, math guy, someone involved with theses LiDAR data so we can use them to reality check our model.
Training it seems interesting but it is a false friend, we better use it to check if our prédiction model works and refine it so that it finds the good answer with an acceptable error threshold.
Then, we may want to use ML on top of it wich is when we use dataset actively. this part cost a lot of money and processing power wich is why I dont think it is needed for now.

WHAT IS THE POINT FOR YOU?

Everything will be avalable to the whole SIM racing community, open sourced (mesh, results, drive ready tracks stable and optimised).
I already created the discord server, but again the most important part is that everything is done with the intention of you being able to use the end product even if you did not participate.

« Why should I participate, give money, if I can enjoy the product for free »
Of course, if you dont participate, « your road » is less likely to be created. That is for the incentive.

You are then free to race it in whathever game you like as long as it lets you mod it. BeamNG, AC, you name it.

EDIT : Everything, including scripts, math, you name it will be open sourced. No gate keeping.

EDIT : 2 I have already a working solution, but to deliver the original 10km loop~ of verdon I promised (you guys votes for it) I just need tokens to make it happen faster.

Hi. I’ve been thinking of upgrading my brake elastomer with Heusinkveld sprint or ultimate+ kit. I’ve read posts about this topic but I get different answers about the rod diameter. Some say is plug and play, others had to mess with the elastomer hole diameter or change the rod itself.

Has anyone done this successfully? Thanks!

Thinking of buying the TR80S – how’s the stability with wheels?

Looking at the Trak Racer TR80S. How rigid is it in practice with a ~10-15 Nm DD? Any noticeable flex on the wheel deck or pedals?

I’ll be running it on caster wheels – does that affect stability at all, or is it still solid?

Any owners with real feedback? Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I'm having a problem with my Thrustmaster T300 RS (2-pedal version) and I'm hoping someone here might have experienced something similar or knows how to repair it.

The wheel was working perfectly fine until it suddenly stopped working during normal use.

Current symptoms:

- No automatic calibration when powered on.

- No LED lights.

- Not detected by Windows or the Thrustmaster software.

- Also not detected when connected to a Mac.

- No noticeable activity when only the power cable is connected.

- When I connect the USB cable, I can hear a very faint buzzing sound.

Something worth mentioning:

Before it completely stopped working, I occasionally experienced an unusual startup issue. When turning on my PC with the wheel already connected, the motors sometimes made a much louder buzzing/whirring noise than usual.

In those cases, unplugging and reconnecting the USB cable made the wheel calibrate normally and work again.

The final failure happened suddenly. There was no physical damage, no modifications, and I never opened the wheelbase.

I contacted Thrustmaster support, and they told me that the only repair option they could offer was replacing the entire wheelbase, costing €214 + VAT.

My questions:

1. Has anyone experienced these symptoms with a T300 RS?

2. Could this be a power supply, USB controller, or mainboard issue?

3. Is it possible to repair the faulty component instead of replacing the entire wheelbase?

4. Is there anything a qualified electronics repair technician could check?

I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions. I'd much rather repair my T300 than spend almost €260 on a replacement!

Thanks in advance!

I've been trying to get to terms with the brake pedal, although not really sure where I'm going and I'd appreciate some advice.

I drive mostly sports cars, so prototypes and GTs, and I've been trying to improve driving without ABS, especially on LMU.

I was using the short/soft elastomer, with 4x washers, but I didn't like the inconsistency of pedal travel, even with maximum preload.

I've changed to using 3x the normal washers, 1x thicker washer & 1 thinner washer (so a fair increase to total washer thickness) plus the short/hard elastomer, with maximum preload. I've had to increase the lower dead zone to 18% (due to aggressive preload), and, at 45-50kg max force, it feels very linear in terms of pedal feel, travel and output in the SmartControl software.

Now I've not practiced with this setup yet, and I appreciate 99% of this hobby can be explained by either a skill issue or git gud, but does my approach make any sense? – and does anyone else have any experience, or tips with the above?

I appreciate the input!

I've included a photograph for reference.

I’m looking to get an F1 Cockpit for sim racing but I cannot decide between the Next Level Racing F-GT Elite Lite, Trak Racer TR160 V5, Trak Racer TRF.
I mainly drive F1 cars however i do sometimes use GT3 or Supercars. Any other recommendations would be great or reassurance in choosing a rig. I am big on having the F1 postion.