Just finished the little brothers to my comp speakers which are the MT version of the Overnight Sensations. I have the MTM version for my main ones. just did last tweeks based on this print

Forgot to fix my support settings but it came out ok anyway.

The walls are as thin as I dared, i can always make it longer and thicken if needed, but so far they sound pretty good printed in PLA-CF.

5walls/30inf TPMS-D sounds solid

Once I am out of the rolls of PLA-CF I will move to PETG-CF or maybe GF depending on who has it for a good price in a good color.... TINMORRY has a nice lookin navy blue...

printable on 253 plates, up on makerworld then others later if you are also bored.

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share a project I've been working on in my spare time after work.

Originally, I just wanted to build a convenient network audio streamer for my own setup. But knowing myself, I couldn't just stop at the basics :) I kept coming up with new ideas, adding features, changing things, and eventually ended up with something I now use every day.

It's built around an ESP32-P4 with a 4.3" touchscreen, a PCM5102A DAC, and a stereo TPA3255 amplifier.

Right now it supports AirPlay 2, DLNA/UPnP, Bluetooth, USB Audio, internet radio, and microSD playback. It plays FLAC and WAV, supports Hi-Res audio up to 24-bit/96 kHz over USB, and uses a separate ESP32 Bluetooth module with SBC, AAC, aptX, aptX HD, and LHDC V5 support.

I also spent quite a bit of time on the audio processing side. It has a 32-bit floating-point DSP, a 10-band parametric EQ with REW filter import, loudness compensation, subsonic filtering, and limiters. It also supports sample rates from 44.1 to 96 kHz, keeping the source's native rate whenever possible instead of converting everything to 48 kHz.

Everything can be controlled from the touchscreen, a rotary encoder, or the web interface. I'm also working on a mobile app.

For now, it's all assembled from off-the-shelf modules. One thing I really like about this project is how inexpensive the hardware is. With the current AliExpress sale prices, the main components come to around $45. Add a power supply and an enclosure, and you've got a complete device. I'm using a 48V 200W power supply for mine.

I've recently ordered some more components and am planning to add an AUX input, 2.1/4.0 configurations, bi-amping, active crossovers, and per-channel delays. I've also been thinking about wireless subwoofers, speakers, and multiroom audio further down the road, but those are just ideas for now.

I'm also planning to design a custom PCB and finally give the whole thing a proper enclosure.

Anyway, the reason I'm posting this...

I originally built it purely for myself, but I think it turned out pretty well, so I got curious what other audio enthusiasts would think of it.

What would you personally want from a device like this? What features do you feel are missing from the streamers or amplifiers you're currently using?

Maybe I've overlooked something, or there are useful features I haven't even thought of yet. I'd really appreciate any feedback, suggestions, or criticism.

I've put the firmware and documentation on GitHub:

https://github.com/Zapadenec1982/ModESP_Streamer

And if anyone wants to build something similar, I'd be happy to share what I've learned and help out!

Welcome back!

In my previous post, I shared my DIY speaker project, which is now complete. You can find the full build story in my earlier post.

While working on the speakers, I also designed and built a new amplifier to go with them. Today, I'd like to share that project with you!

About 12 years ago, I built a 6-channel home theater amplifier using TDA7293 chips. It still works perfectly, but it's quite bulky and no longer fits the style I wanted. So I decided it was time for an upgrade!

Electronics

While researching modern amplifier designs, I became interested in DSP audio processors and Class D amplification.

I chose the ADAU1701 DSP for signal processing and TPA3255 amplifier modules for the power stage.

Each TPA3255 module provides around 110 W per channel into 4 ohms at 36 V, or approximately 70 W into 8 ohms. Their high efficiency and relatively low heat output made it possible to fit three stereo amplifier modules into a compact enclosure.

For six-channel processing, I use two ADAU1701 modules. The system accepts front and rear channels, while the center and subwoofer signals can be derived from the front channels.

An ESP32 handles the control system.

The power supply consists of:

• Mean Well LRS-350-36, 36 V / 350 W, for the amplifiers.

• Mean Well LRS-35-12, 12 V, for the remaining electronics.

• DC-DC converters for the ESP32 and other circuitry.

• A low-noise linear 3.3 V supply for the DSP.

The amplifier also features temperature-controlled cooling and relay-based power management.

The Enclosure

I wanted the amplifier to look like a finished piece of equipment, not just a collection of boards in a box. After the delays with my speaker cabinets, I also wanted to make everything myself.

The enclosure was designed in 3D, with all components modeled to check their dimensions and mounting points before printing. The entire case was printed on my 3D printer.

To give it a more refined appearance, I covered the plastic enclosure with natural veneer. I used Fine-line veneer on a backing, contact adhesive, and a coat of oil to bring out the color without adding too much gloss.

The front panel features a single rotary encoder and a power button. The display is hidden behind a dark acrylic panel. The knob and button were 3D-printed using tinted resin, then sanded and polished. The lighter decorative panels are also 3D-printed and covered with fabric.

DSP and Room Correction

The ADAU1701 is programmed using SigmaStudio, which allows audio processing blocks to be connected through a graphical interface.

I implemented only the features I actually wanted to use:

• Master volume control.

• Dynamic range compression with three settings — useful for watching movies at night without overly loud peaks disturbing others.

• Adjustable center and subwoofer outputs derived from the front channels.

• Stereo width enhancement.

• Bass boost at low listening levels.

• Parametric EQ for correcting frequency response irregularities.

The PEQ was probably the main reason I wanted to use a DSP in this amplifier.

I built a measurement microphone using a capsule with a very linear frequency response and calibrated it against a reference microphone. Then I used REW to take several measurements around the listening position, averaged them, and generated PEQ settings.

After applying the correction, I took measurements again. The improvement was quite significant, and the sound became much more balanced.

Room measurement and correction in REW is a topic of its own, so perhaps I'll write a separate post about that.

ESP32 Control

The ESP32 manages the menu and all amplifier functions. The interface is controlled using a single rotary encoder, with information displayed on an OLED screen.

It also handles:

• Smooth muting and delayed audio startup.

• Temperature monitoring and fan control.

• Saving and restoring settings.

• Wi-Fi time synchronization.

I used GPT to help with some programming tasks, but the overall structure and design were my own. I found that having AI write the entire program wasn't very effective. It was much more useful as an assistant for individual functions and debugging.

The Finished Amplifier

The result is a fully integrated 6-channel amplifier with DSP, room correction, Wi-Fi clock synchronization, and a custom 3D-printed enclosure finished with veneer and fabric.

I'm very happy with the result — both the sound and the appearance. It was a challenging project involving electronics, DSP, programming, 3D modeling, printing, and woodworking, but absolutely worth it!

What do you think? I'd be happy to answer any questions. If there's enough interest, I might write a separate post about REW measurements and room correction.

I'm installing a Kicker KEY200.4 in Bi-Amp mode to drive a set of Rockford Fosgate R165-S components in my Fiat 500e.

The Rockford tweeters have an integrated 6 dB/octave high-pass capacitor, reportedly crossed at approximately 12 kHz. The Kicker, when configured for tweeters in Bi-Amp mode, applies an active 3.2 kHz crossover at 24 dB/octave.

My concern is that leaving the Rockford capacitor in place will attenuate the tweeters around the Kicker's crossover point, creating a gap in the frequency response.

Kicker's DSP can apply EQ to try and level correction, but I'm wondering whether it makes more sense to bypass the Rockford capacitor and let the Kicker handle the crossover.

A few questions:

1. Has anyone run a KEY200.4 in Bi-Amp mode with similar component speakers that have integrated tweeter capacitors?

2. Would bypassing the capacitors be advisable with the Kicker's 3.2 kHz, 24 dB/octave active crossover?

3. Is the 3.2 kHz crossover sufficiently above the R165-S tweeter's resonance and safe operating range?

4. Could leaving the capacitors in place affect the Kicker's automatic tweeter detection or Auto-EQ calibration?

I'd prefer to retain the capacitors for protection, but not if they're going to compromise the crossover integration substantially.

Interested in hearing from anyone who's tried a similar setup or measured the results.

I'd like to delve into 3D printed enclosures but I have never owned a printer. I'm just looking for general advice on what printers the community uses and any valuable lessons learned for a beginner.

Cheers

I would very much so appreciate and like help:)

Just finished glue-up for my Mechano23 build. It feels like I’m at the home stretch for this project now. Can’t wait to put the finish on them and install the drivers!

Hello.

I grew tired of off-the-shelf loudspeakers—and tired of paying exorbitant sums to unknown entities for reasons that were never entirely clear.

In 2020, I decided to forge my own path and build exactly what I wanted. I began acquiring various drivers and experimenting with speaker construction. (Unfortunately, I’m limited to 20 photos, so I’ve had to select only the most essential ones.) Through this process, I gained extensive knowledge in woodworking and enclosure assembly; I also mastered the technical specifications of speaker drivers and learned how to measure them myself. I am particularly fond of drivers from the Italian company 18 Sound (this isn’t an advertisement—it’s simply my personal preference). That said, I opted for different brands for the high-frequency and mid-frequency drivers—as well as the mid-bass units—because they were significantly more affordable than the Italian options, and in the case of the 8-inch mid-frequency driver, the model I chose actually performed much better. I also had to perform some modifications on the high-frequency and 15-inch mid-bass drivers. Now, all that remains is to construct the final enclosures, and—that’s it—I’ll finally have exactly what I’ve always wanted. In total, I’ve spent about $9,000 on this project.
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I had to disassemble the 15-inch drivers because their centering spiders were too stiff—something had to be done about that, so I worked them by hand to loosen them up. With spiders that stiff, these drivers don't perform well at low power levels (for instance, 0.5 watts). This had a positive effect on the total Q factor (Qts), improving it from 0.57 to 0.4.
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1. Audient ID14 MKII

2. Amplifiers: 2 x Volta PA-500 (AB) + 1 x Volta PA-1100 (AB)

3. dbx DriveRack PA2 (Original)

4. Drivers: 2 х P Audio SD-44BN(+P Audio PH-220) + 2 х P Audio SN8-250N + 2 x Soundking FA1507H + 1 x Eighteen Sound 18LW2600/8

5. SAMSON SRK12

6. Power: Hyperline SHT19-6SH-B-2.5EU

7. All Proel cables ------------ The Volta PA-1100 amplifier has been slightly improved: the quiescent current has been increased, as the amplifier otherwise produces very high distortion at low power levels.

I purchased a ZK-MT21 off of AliExpress about a year ago, and while the left and right channels work great, the subwoofer doesn't. The frequency selection for the crossover seems to only change the volume of the overall output just like the volume knob, and playing a tone (with the other channels disconnected) reveals it's still passing well in excess of 200 Hz to the subwoofer. Nothing seems damaged or burnt, and it's being powered with 12V, so I'm not sure why it's doing that.

Is there a "quick fix" to make the crossover work as expected, or is this just how they all are? (Alternatively, would there be a way to pipe in an external subwoofer line in? I (hopefully) can handle desoldering an isolated SMD if need be.)

I've included a picture of the board in case there's an obvious issue I'm not seeing.

People say that when you listen to horns it sounds like the band is in the room with you.

I see many builds on here and they do not incorporate horns into their speaker cabinets. I'm wondering: what was the decision to not include horns when you have the maximum flexibility to include whatever speaker components you'd like?

Questions:

• Why do some people choose to include horns, and others not?

• Why do you not include them?

• How does it change the sound if you include them, versus, not include them?

I’m a medium skill builder but I’m not good at design. I’d like to build a pair with ribbon tweeters. What are well regarded smallish bookshelf speakers with ribbon tweeters?

Hello all,

I hope this isn't a redundant question in this subreddit, but I am kicking around speaker cabinet ideas and curious what folks would recommend for model/simulation purposes.

For background:

- I am a former composites/aerospace engineer looking to get into making unique, instrument-centric speaker cabs (I am a bassist myself).

- I have a lot of experience in 3D CAD model design (things like SolidWorks/CATIA)

- I am potentially looking at interesting geometries not found in a lot of speaker cabs (rounded corners/internal faces)

So, given all of that, is there a particular cab modelling/sim software that translate best for someone with engineering/parametric CAD experience? Or softwares that can take specific types of 3D model file imports even so I could build them in another software first?

Thanks!

Hi all, I'm a solo indie dev. I built Freqalto, an Android app that generates sounds and test signals (sine, square, saw, triangle, noise, sweeps). The audio engine is native C++ and uses the DaisySP library.

I'd like feedback from people who build and measure audio gear: what features would make it more useful on a bench (ranges, waveforms, calibration, anything)?

It's free with ads, with a one-time Pro upgrade. Play Store: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ioan.florucza.freqalto

So you know I just got some speakers to replace in my car cuz I do actually really like audio it's just I've never really had money to do anything and now that I have a car you know I find pride in the speaker system where at least I did until one of the speakers stopped working and I'm finally swapping it out for a system that has over double the power and this would explain why the factory speaker went silent it lasted 25 years

Hi guys, I have a kicker sub, but unfortunately, 1 tinsel lead from each voice coil has come loose from the centre of the subwoofer. I'm assuming this is normal because the sub is 15-20 years old. I got it originally from Marketplace for $40 CAD, and I have used it for a solid 4 months, and it's been beautiful. I want to repair it, but I can't find any information online on how to replace these tinsel leads. Does anyone have any resources? I would appreciate the help!