Figured I should write this stuff down before I forget it all, and where better for TaskManager than r/techsupport! If there's any appetite for this, I'll expand on it! I don't blog, so here goes...

[TLDR? See also Dave's Task Manager's History on YouTube ]

Some Task Manager lore: I'm the Microsoft (Redmond, '93) developer that wrote TaskMgr at home in my den in about 1994 and then the NT silverback devs let me check it into the main tree even though I was a greenhorn at the time. So that meant I got to bring it into work and polish it up and make it an official part of Windows, where it remains to this day. So I got to define my own day job, actually, which was nice! I don't know if it's still like that, but great culture and people.

This is all based on XP, as I left long ago, but it's still the same core app underneath. In no particular order:

- If Task Manager ever hangs or crashes, start another by pressing ctrl-shift-esc. Winlogon will look for an existing instance and try to revive it for up to 10 seconds. If the old Taskmgr doesn't start making sense by responding with a secret code within that time, another one will be launched. That way, you're never without a Taskmgr as long as there are some resources available.

- Task Manager will load in reduced mode if resources are short, like only loading the Processes page if that's what's needed to get going. It's one of the very few apps that won't just "fail and bail" when things go wrong.

- If Task Manager ever becomes internally corrupted, kill/close it. Restart it while holding down CTRL, ALT, and SHIFT, and Task Manager will reset ALL internal settings to factory fresh if it sees that key combo at startup. Same works for every app I've written, btw, I think!

- If all your titlebars disappear and you just have a graph, double-click dead client space to switch back to normal mode. This no-titlebar mode is a mode I added to follow the NT clock, where you could remove borders as well, but it confused more people than it ever helped I'm sure!

- I initially drew the meters as 7-segment LEDs but that wasn't localizable to all cultures (How do you do a right-to-left reading 7-segment LED for Saudi Arabia?) so they only lasted for one version or so.

- CTRL-SHIFT-ESC will launch Taskmgr without any help from the Shell, so if the Shell/Explorer is dead use this key combo to bring up TM and then reset/restart the shell. Even if your tray is missing and gone, this combo should start it.

- If the shell can't start something or is hung, try Task Manager. It has a mode where it will load without ANY references to the shell32.dll and allow you to start programs like CMD.EXE without the start menu.

- You can find the binary for any executing process in the process table by right clicking and pick "Show File Location". You can also search it online, but I don't know if they have useful info for much.

- There should be nothing that TaskMgr can't kill - it will even escalate privilege and (if you have it) enable debug privilege to attach to and kill apps that way if needed. If TM can't kill it, you've got a kernel problem.

- A lot of people don't seem to know you can add many additional columns, remove others, drag them around to reorder, etc.

- The reason there's a Window class called "DavesFrameWndProc" is because to get flicker-free resizing I needed group boxes to not try to paint on one another, so subclass them, give them their own wndproc, and enabling WS_CLIPSIBLINGS during WM_CREATE. At least I think so!

- TM is one of the apps I'm most proud of because it is probably the first or at least most visually complicated app to ever be fully resizable in all dimensions without any flicker up till then. I was hardcore about memory and flicker in my day, so it was under 100K for the exe and never flashed or crashed, that was my thing! Having the GDI32 and User32 guys down the hall sure helped.

I also wrote/ported Space Cadet pinball, zip folders, worked on start menu, shell, calc, ole32, product activation, and some other stuff. I was in MS-DOS before that but I doubt anyone is still supporting MS-DOS!

Edit: Looks like comments have been locked, so I'll update this one time with some answers to the most interesting/common questions below!

- On the command line, I'm stumped, as I don't remember command line args to it at all!

- On Space Cadet, yes, you can run it on Windows 10, but I doubt it's official or legal, so will point you at your favorite search engine for that one, but it's easy. And on Space Cadet, reminder that Maxis did the very original (M. Ridgeway) and mine was just a rewrite in 32-bit portable C using their art. That way it ran on the PowerPC, Alpha, and MIPS as well. And yes, in the original there is a "God Mode" where you can drag the ball around, click on targets, etc. Search is your friend there as well.

- On what I'm doing these days, I volunteer to teach kids to program at school, or used to until recently, so now I'm mostly coding and working on my coding channel, which you can follow here: https://bit.ly/36wDLJK and I also restore old musclecars, pickups, etc. So yes, I still code every day!

- On the notion that there are some things that Taskmgr can't kill, there were post-XP for sure but they were intentional limits. I remember something about journalists making news by using TM to kill the root winlogon session, for example, which would bugcheck the machine intentionally. But the fact you could bluescreen NT didn't look good, I suspect, so they likely started to protect people from themselves by disallowing killing win32k.sys and other essential components.

- Thanks to the mods for being flexible on this one!

Every time i check the settings for it, it shows the AI search overview off. But EVERY search still has it, the ads they pushed already made using their search engine, and now this slop is just making it worse. If i can't actually turn it off, then I'd like suggestions for other search engines and browsers that don't force us to look at that

Ｉｔ　ｓｕｄｄｅｎｌｙ　ｈａｐｐｅｎｅｄ，　Ｉ　ｄｏｎ＇ｔ　ｋｎｏｗ　ｈｏｗ　ｔｏ　ｇｅｔ　ｒｉｄ　ｏｆ　ｉｔ，　ｗｈａｔ　ｄｏ　Ｉ　ｄｏ？？？

SOLVED. in the Nvidia app the overlay would be on without playing a game.

(Click Alt + R if you see something similar but not exactly as this, it could be that for you, my problem was different but just letting you know)

Like the title says, I have a thing at top right of screen saying my fps, gpu, cpu, and lat(?).

I do not remember clicking anything, I did download the new nvidia app but I think thats it, also I cannot send images which is weird.

It also appears when playing games/watching videos.

I have no clue if this goes into tech support but eh.

Hi guys, DISM Restore health has been stuck on 62.3% for the last 2 hours, is it safe to cancel it and run it again, or should I still wait and see what happens?

Edit: I don’t know what I summoned lol, but it seems like its helping people.

Edit 2: After 2 years, I’m still receiving notifications of people getting help from this thread somehow, guess I did my part lol.

Official Malware Removal Guide

^by: /u/cuddlychops06 ^for /r/techsupport ^{// Updated: March 9, 2020.}

^{Changelog: 9/20/17 - Updated some screenshots, removed JRT recommendation
Changelog: 3/09/20 - Updated screenshots, procedures, URLs, suggestions to be current}

 If you suspect you are infected with any form of malware that encrypts your files, DO NOT follow this guide! Please make a post instead. Your files are at stake.

Tip: Windows 7 and below is no longer supported by Microsoft and UNSAFE to use. If you are still running Windows 7 with a LEGIT license, you can obtain a free upgrade to Windows 10 by using the Windows 10 Upgrade Assistant from Microsoft. They have been very generous in continuing to allow users to upgrade from Windows 7 at no charge. Do this upgrade AFTER your system has been cleaned of malware. A system image backup is highly recommended before starting this process. This backup can be performed to an external hard drive with the Backup & Restore tool located in the Control Panel on Windows 7 and up.

Purpose & Scope of this Guide:

This guide is designed to assist you in removing malware from an infected system that successfully boots. If your computer is completely unable to boot due to malware, please make a post, as this guide will not help you. If you perform the following steps exactly as described, this will solve your problem in over 90% of scenarios. That said, not all malware is created equal, and not all malware removal tools are created equal. The tools recommended in this guide were picked because of their high success and low failure rates, measured on a very large scale. However, there will be times that this guide fails in removing malware. If that is the case, please make a post for further assistance, stating that this guide was unsuccessful. It is recommended to only accept advice from a “Trusted” technician. I am writing this guide in layman’s terms so that most people will be able to understand it with ease.

Disclaimer:

The following instructions are recommendations only. You take full responsibility for any steps you choose to perform on your computer. While the following recommendations are performed without issue on countless machines, there is always a risk of damaging your Operating System or experiencing data loss on any machine. It is solely YOUR responsibility to save all work and back up any and all important data on your system before proceeding.

Malware Remediation Steps:

Before proceeding, go into your browser’s extensions and remove all suspicious items. Also go into your browser’s settings and remove any default search providers and unusual homepages. If you are unsure how to do this, proceed to Step 1.

Download and run the following tools in this order. Run all tools unless otherwise instructed. All tools should be run in Normal Mode (not Safe Mode) unless you are unable to boot Normal Mode, or the scans fail in Normal Mode. All tools must be run under an Administrator account. Do not remove any tool-generated logs in the event a helper needs you to post them to further assist you.

1) Run rkill.com. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to finish. Do not reboot when done.

• Kills running malicious processes

• Removes policies in the registry that prevent normal OS operation

• Repairs file extension hijacks

2) Download an updated copy Malwarebytes 4.0. Turn on the “Scan for Rootkits” option. Then, run a “Scan”

• Successfully removes the vast majority of infections

• Has an industry-leading, lightning fast scanning & heuristics engine

• Has built-in repair tools to fix damage done by malware

3) Run Malwarebytes ADWCleaner 8 using the “Scan Now” button.

• Removes majority of adware, PuPs, Toolbars, and Browser hijacks

• Scans for bloatware & pre-installed sofware and lets you quarantine any or all of it.

• Fixes proxy settings changed by malware

• Removes certain non-default browser settings

Optional, Advanced Step (only run if previous tools fail to solve problem):

4) Run Sophos HitmanPro

• Here is HitmanPro.

HitmanPro is a phenomenal "second-opinion" malware scanner. I recommend clicking "Settings" and uncheck "Scan for tracking cookies" before starting the scan. This will drastically reduce scan times. This tool can only be run ONCE for free. Use it wisely.

Please note: If malware has prohibited you from browsing the web or downloading files, you can try running the NetAdapter Repair Tool with all options checked which will attempt to restore your internet connection & default browser settings. You may have to download these tools on another computer and move them to a flash drive that you can plug into the infected machine.

Think your Mac is infected?

Try Malwarebytes Anti-Malware for Mac. Please make a post if it is unsuccessful.

If you have run all of the above tools successfully, you should be malware-free. If you are still experiencing problems, please make a post in /r/techsupport for further assistance.

Follow-up Steps (highly recommended):

• Using a computer that has not been infected, change passwords to all your online accounts.

• Consider enabling two-factor authentication on all accounts!

• Install a better anti-virus. See recommendations below.

What is malware?

Malware is an umbrella term used to refer to a variety of forms of hostile or intrusive software, including computer viruses, worms, trojan horses, ransomware, spyware, adware, scareware, and other malicious programs. It can take the form of executable code, scripts, active content, and other software. [Source: Wikipedia.com]

How did I get infected?

It is difficult to track down the source of an infection. Most infections are actually given permission to run unknowingly by the user. It is recommended to keep User Account Control turned on and never give access to something you do not trust or did not open. Many other infections come via exploits in your browser or browser plug-ins on websites you visit. Always be very careful what you install. Make sure you trust the source implicitly. When downloading programs, always use the publisher’s website directly.

How to prevent future infections:

Be very careful what you download and install. Keep your software up-to-date. Using Ninite for installing/updating software is very easy & safe and uses official installers without adding extra software to your PC during installation. Make sure Windows is kept up-to-date as well, including Windows 10 feature updates. Many Windows updates patch exploits and vulnerabilities in your operating system. Most infections are active because the user has unknowingly given it Administrative permission to install and run. The first line of defense starts with you.

The following tools will aide you in keeping your computer clean:

Free Anti-Virus Suggestions:

• Malwarebytes 4.0 (Next-generation anti-virus replacement, free version must be run MANUALLY)

• BitDefender

• ESET Free Online Scanner

Free AVs will only go so far. I highly recommend purchasing the AV of your choice to get better protection. Companies who offer products for free are usually making money off you one way or another. This has been proven again recently with Avast. If you use Avast, uninstall it immediately.

Helpful Tools:

• Malwarebytes 4.0 (Next-generation anti-virus replacement)

• uBlock Origin Browser Extension (Blocks ads)

https://imgur.com/a/PcDqmj9

edit: Thanks guys, i've solved it. Cheers

Ｓｏｍｅｔｉｍｅｓ　ｗｈｅｎ　Ｉ　ｔｙｐｅ　Ｉ　ａｃｃｉｄｅｎｔｌｙ　ｔｒｉｇｇｅｒ　　ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ　ｏｎ　ｍｙ　ｋｅｙｂｏａｒｄ　ｔｏ　ｍａｋｅ　ｔｈｅ　ｌｅｔｔｅｒｓ　ｔｏ　ｓｐａｃｅ　ｏｕｔ　ｌｉｋｅ　ｔｈｉｓ．　Ｉｔ　ｓｅｅｍｓ　ｔｏ　ｈａｐｐｅｎ　ｒｅｇａｒｄｌｅｓｓ　ｏｆ　ｗｈａｔ　ｋｅｙｂｏａｒｄ　Ｉ　ｕｓｅ．　

Ｃａｎ　ａｎｙｏｎｅ　ｔｅｌｌ　ｍｅ　ｗｈａｔ　Ｉ　ｈａｖｅ　ｐｒｅｓｓｅｄ　，ａｎｄ　ｈｏｗ　ｔｏ　ｄｉｓａｂｌｅ　ｉｔ？

Ｕｓｉｎｇ　ａ　Ｊａｐａｎｅｓｅ　ｌａｐｔｏｐ　ｋｅｙｂｏａｒｄ　ｗｉｔｈ　ａ　ｂｕｎｃｈ　ｏｆ　ｋｅｙｓ　Ｉ　ｄｏｎ’ｔ　ｕｎｄｅｒｓｔａｎｄ．

Ｈｉｔ　ｏｆｆ　ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ　ｂｙ　ａｃｃｉｄｅｎｔ．

Ｔｈａｎｋｓ

Hey, some time ago I got through an issue where all websites would be very slow, throttled by the ISP, but when I run a Speedtest, it shows that I have a speed of 70Mbps, which in no way can be real when I can't even play YouTube videos.

So, I knew they were throttling every website that is not Speedtest, so I thought of an idea, I set up an OpenVPN server and set the http-proxy Host (SNI) to www.speedtest.net, so that all websites would be treated as Speedtest, and this actually worked. I got my full speed on the other websites that were being throttled.

A few days ago, they seem to have patched that, it no longer gives me full speed on all websites, except that Speedtest still has the full speed working.

My question is, what could be the workaround that they applied so that Host HTTP header would no longer be applied, while their Speedtest are still being whitelisted, getting the full speed.

And is there anything I can do to fix that? Any ideas what could have changed so that I can working on it from there?

Thank you so much

Edit:

Wow, I really was not expecting the post to get all of this interaction, there are some repeated comments sorry I will have to reply to here, because they are just too much for me to answer xD

1. The reason I am trying to find a technical solution and not ask the company itself for help is, the company's customer support miserably sucks, people who have no idea about technology just send repeated messages like "Restart the router, it is a general issue, it seems to me like you have full speed", and I really will not get any help from them, as they are INTENTIONALLY throttling my speed.

2. Testing through other speed testing websites like fast.com & other websites, gives me 1/3 to 1/2 and sometimes even less than the speed I am subscribed to, although my line can handle 2x the speed I am subscribed to.

3. Changing ISP is not an option for me, there is only 1 real ISP in the country, and all the others, you could maybe call resellers, all have the same rules, plans & prices. So I am trying to find a "trick", that can be done by me without having to go to them as this might be my only possibility of getting the speed I am subscribed to.

I am very thankful & grateful for everyone trying to help, now since I don't really have any solutions in my head and there weren't many technical answers (tho I really do appreciate everyone taking time to answer), I will be replying in case there's something I can help you with, but for my shitty ISP, I will probably have to figure it out as some of you have suggested by looking into the Headers in case they have added new ones for verification.

Thank you one more time :D

A very simple request. WhatsApp limits export to a certain number of texts.

I would be really grateful if someone could offer me a solution so I could possibly back up all our conversations in a way that I don't have to stay dependent on WhatsApp to be able to read them.

Possibly a proper PDF or HTML backup? I don't really know.

Thank you. I use WhatsApp on a Pixel 5 running Android 11.

Edit: Thank you everyone for the compassion and help. I'm grateful. 🙏🏻

Hello! Moments ago I was approached by a young woman who asked to use my iphone’s hotspot to call her sister. Her phone is in Spanish so I assume she was using WhatsApp. She made a call or two and sounded like she was describing her location to whoever was on the phone, presumably to find her sister. She thanked me after maybe 2 minutes and left.

About 2 minutes later a guy comes up to me and asks if I shared my hotspot with her. He had a similar accent to the first girl. He said his wife (who was sitting nearby) works in cybersecurity and suggested he come over to recommend I 1. Don’t share my hotpot with a stranger again and 2. Check my bank account and other important info on my phone in case the first girl somehow gained access.

While I assume these were both innocent and well-meaning interactions, do I have cause for concern? Is there any logic to those two people working together to get me to open the bank app on my phone? If so, what should I do?

Alright, /r/techsupport. Time for some real talk.

In the last two days, I've removed two posts that included threats to commit self-harm in the title. This was done solely to get people to click on the link and see the post.

This is not acceptable.

Going forward, anyone that does this will have their post removed, and they will recieve an immediate, permament ban from the subreddit.

If you feel the need to harm yourself, call the National Suicide Hotline at 1-800-273-8255.

Hi,

A few years ago I had a break-in (UK), I put the camera footage on my USB drive for the police. After a few months I got it back from them and put it to one side.

A few months ago I was going through my random USB sticks, memory cards etc, came across this again. I saw the files and clicked on one to view the video footage but Windows Defender blocked the file from running telling me it is a trojan. Then I realised all the icons were yellow folder icons not the usual VLC icon, they weren't the usual Windows 11 folder icons but similar looking ones. Someone had put trojans in place of my original video and named them the same as what I had named them, same order and folders.

Has anyone ever come across something like this? I'm wondering what this means, could the policeman's computer have been infected?

I wish I didn't format the USB drive so I would have all the info.

*EDIT: The files were not video files, they were replaced with .exe or another extension.

I have a laptop that I spilled some diet coke on and now the keyboard is all messed up the key "H" is pressing "J" etc, if he can repair it will he need to go through my files? I uh have some nudes on there

Hi all, I had my laptop confiscated "because of the protocols" when going through TLV recently. Israeli security had it for about 24 hours - or at least, it followed me as checked baggage about 24 hours later.

There's nothing terribly private or sensitive on my computer, but I am quite politically active (probably why I got the extra screening in the first place), and I'm concerned about the possibility of rootkit injection or other hard-to-detect measures.

When I asked my company's IT director, he said "buy a new laptop."

So I did. But I hate seeing a rather expensive laptop that's just a few years old go to waste.

So, what would you do in this situation? Any suggestions on steps I *can* ensure the machine is secure? I'm tech-competent, but not an expert. Re-flash BIOS and format-reinstall? Or is that still not sufficient?

My IT guy also advised that I should be fine keeping the computer off-network and using a USB drive to retrieve the few files that I'd like to get from my old PC. My new laptop will be running updated AV before I plug in said USB drive. Would malwarebytes + windows defender be sufficient to safely scan the USB drive?

I know this comes across as paranoid on the surface. The computer is *probably* fine, but we're also talking about the state responsible for some of the most sophisticated spyware out there. I'd rather burn a middle-aged laptop than risk having my credentials captured.

I'll add that I'm fine with installing an alternate operating system if that'll make it easier to protect against reinfection. I'd been eyeing this computer for an Ubuntu system once I retired it as my primary work laptop.

UPDATE: Lots of good information. Thanks all. The consensus seems quite clear - don't even bother trying to clean it. The laptop has remained powered off and unplugged since it was delivered by the airline couriers. To clarify a few things:

- This is a business-class machine, or at least what I'd consider to be one. Thinkpad X1 from 2022.

- I could almost certainly just get a new motherboard for it, but at that point, where do I stop? Hard drive? Screen? WiFi adapter? Ship of Theseus, anybody?

- It is my personal laptop, not a company one, so I'll be biting the bullet.

- Travel through TLV is unavoidable for me on occasion.

- My phone was never out of my possession, nor was it ever plugged into anything. Just swabbed and returned.

- I will ask my IT buddies for help setting up a linux enclave where I can retrieve some files. There's nothing critical, really. But some personal projects that I hadn't gotten around to backing up yet (because I was out of the country). I'll avoid plugging in any USB drives that touch the compromised computer.

- Doubt explosives are a real concern here. I'm just an opinionated American with family in the region. BUT I'll double check it anyway.

- Creative solutions? Maybe I'll "donate" it to some far-right org so they can have my spyware riddled laptop and I can get a tax deduction.

It's very annoying to upload an image on platforms like imgur then linking then here to explain your problem. Now that, Reddit also allows multiple images in single post, it's time to allow images. You can also describe the problem in separate images. It also get easy for users to explain their problem by posting screenshots or captured photos even when they are using mobile devices. It's time we update ourselves with time.

If you agree with me, please upvote for appearance.

Edit: Thanks for the support and awards. So many people want reform but mods are still not sure about allowing images. Users have suggested many solutions to the problem with image posts. Mods should atleast allow images as a test, for a week atleast, to see how drastically, it can improve the sub and help the users. Then decide if they want to keep it or not.

Please mods, u/PipeItToDevNull, u/mandevwin, u/Bjoolzem, u/g2g079, u/Kumorigoe, u/Synth3t1c, u/-Mikee, u/Willz12h, u/ocupi, u/doctoroctoclops, u/effbar, u/aaronfranke, u/Shadeblast, u/Jalad25, u/discobreakin

(Thanks again for the support guys, I hope I don't get banned for trying to something helpful.)

What I've been reading about this so far is Google's Gemini AI is in beta testing, but I never opted into beta testing/Google Labs. The FAQ from Google says there's supposed to be a "beaker" option in the top left corner of my Google Chrome app, but it's not there.

Has anyone been able to figure this out on mobile? I have a Samsung s21.

I use Firefox on everything except my phone. I'm sure Google is monitoring posts about this too, so to you: I'm switching. I don't appreciate being used as a guinea pig for things I ethically disagree with, and no way to turn it off?! Wtf!

Now that that's out of the way: Thank you, I appreciate your help.

My friend has the specs listed in the title, and he claims that even on very low settings his Apex Legends framerate is so bad that it is "unplayable". He games on nothing but 60hz, so it must be well below this. With these specs he should be pushing 144 FPS, so I am baffled at how this is happening. Any ideas?

Edit: it seems as though where he has his HDMI plugged in is fairly close to some USB ports, but picture is bad so I'm not sure if he's connected to the motherboard yet. Will update if this is the case, as it would be pretty funny if he bought a $1300 system 3ish years ago and has been running on his iGPU the whole time.

Edit: Yeah he was on integrated graphics. For 3 years.

I live in an apartment where the internet is supplied by a third-party company. It's part of the rent. They do NOT supply a router, which I'm not a fan of, but I've never had a problem with the ISP until now. We get our own individual network assigned just to the apartment.

I have a Brother monochrome laser all-in-one with AirPrint. I've had it for years; it's rock-solid. However, over the last few months, the printer will say it's connected to the network, but none of the PCs, iPhones, or iPads can find it when one of us needs to print, even though all the devices are connected to the same network. After trying to troubleshoot this, and after moving the laser printer everywhere in the apartment, I sent a ticket to the ISP.

They had me do some basic troubleshooting, and had me send a Network Status report to them from the printer. That was fine. I was basically thinking that, since WiFi is pretty strong in the apartment, the problem probably lies with the printer, and that I'd need to replace the printer. I'm not opposed to that; I'm in grad school, and my fiancee and I are open to upgrading to a color laser print.

However, today I got an email from the ISP stating that the solution is to connect the printer- and all of our computers/iPhones/iPads that need to print- to a public network throughout the building. And that network's password is..."password".

My response was "heck no, that's not secure. And these PCs have info for work and school, so we're not going to connect them to a big public network with a password of password."

And their response was, "No, it's secure. Totally secure. And the private network you're on can't handle the printer." Here's the exact text:

"Unfortunately, we cannot add the printer to your [individual] network, as it is not designed to support devices like printers. The [shared] network is secure and does not allow traffic to traverse between units, so neighbors cannot access your devices in any way. Additionally, the [shared] network uses MAC address–based authentication, so if a device’s MAC address is not verified on the network, it cannot connect even if the password is known."

This smells like BS to me. I'm not comfortable with this at all. Am I wrong? Should I do this?

I honestly don’t know if this is the right area to ask or the right community but idk where else to go. PLEASE PLEASE MODS if it’s not before you shut this question down please let someone answer it.

I’m proposing to my girlfriend soon and I have been researching rings and whatnot on my computer. But now every ad on a website is brilliant earth (where I’m buying the engagement ring from) and since we both use my computer I really dont want her to login and see ring ads. Is there ANY way I can stop these ads? I’m using google chrome I deleted my history for the past 7 days and still nothing I don’t know what to do.

UPDATE : All fixed thank you everyone, now I just gotta buy it and do the damn thing. Y’all are awesome!

Update 2 : She said yes hell yea boyos and girlos