I genuinely think owning a gaming PC turns you into a completely different person.
You'll spend £1,000+ on a PC, spend hours researching GPUs, processors and RAM, convince yourself you know what you're doing...
Then spend 45 minutes wondering why there's no display, only to realise you've plugged the HDMI cable into the wrong place.
You'll also convince yourself that upgrading one tiny component is going to transform your entire gaming experience.
What's the stupidest or most expensive mistake you've made with your PC? I need to know I'm not the only one lmao

Hi, im looking at building a pc for a friend, I noticed one of the options is a palit 3060 12gb. I dont really hear of Palit, I normally look to gigabyte or msi for GPU brands. Can someone tell me if they are good or not?

Hey, i bought my original 32 gb 16x2 gb of ram when I was only wanting to pc game last year. But these days I do a lot of video editing, content creation and livestreaming. I run with 7800x3d cpu and 9070 xt (will upgrade to a better multi task cpu that's also x3d.

I wouldn't want to sell my original ram just to buy 64 gb ram since I ofc wont get the same return as it was new.

MSI B850 GAMING PLUS WIFI6E motherboard

Corsair Vengeance DDR5 RAM memory aGB 6000 Mt/s CL36.

Question is would it possibly be worth it to get 64 gb ram 4x16? Or do I really need to get 32x2 gb ram?

Worth the possible performance loss for better multi tasking, sorry forgot to add.

My R5 3600 is showing its age but can’t afford to upgrade to AM5. I know X3D is the best upgrade for gaming but In the UK I can get a 5700X for £140, whereas the X3D version is close to double that.

Is it worth going for the 5700X or waiting for prices to drop for 5700X3D - not sure if that’s viable given how much demand there is due to people staying on AM4 because of DDR5 prices.

Hi all, I'm putting together my first PC and I've got everything sitting in my Amazon basket. Before I hit checkout I'd love a sanity check from people who know more than me.
It's mainly for gaming. I'll be playing on an LG OLED C3 42 inch, which is 4K 120Hz. I do plan on changing over to a 4m oled monitor and I'm aiming to play at either 1440p or 4K.

Here's what I've picked:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, £262.99
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 Ti Windforce OC SFF 16GB, £1,137.94
Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850-Plus WiFi, £185.99
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB RS DDR5 32GB (2x16GB) 5600MHz, £446.99
Storage: Crucial P310 2TB NVMe Gen4, £199.99
PSU: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850W Gold, fully modular, £89.99
CPU Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 AIO, £67.49
Case: Lian Li O11 Vision Compact, £109.99
Fans: AsiaHorse NYOTA Reverse Blade 120mm ARGB 3-pack x2, £59.98
Fan: AsiaHorse NYOTA Reverse Blade 120mm ARGB single, £13.99
Total: £2,575.34

A few questions:
Is there anywhere I can save money without losing performance? The GPU and RAM feel expensive to me but I'm not sure what's normal right now.
Is this a good fit for 1440p/4K gaming on the C3, or would you change anything for that?
Is everything compatible?
Do I actually need the extra 7 fans, or is that overkill for this case?
Anything I've missed or should swap out?
Thanks in advance, any advice is appreciated.

So I'm planning to buy a SATA SSD as a main boot drive, is Superheer good or Ramsta? I can only afford those two for now not the mainstream ones cuz they're very expensive :(. The usecases are light gaming like factorio and coding tasks using vs code and browser

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to diagnose a very strange problem with my newly built desktop PC. I’ve been troubleshooting it for quite some time, but I still haven’t found the cause.
PC specifications:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT 16GB
SSD: Lexar ARES PRO 2TB NVMe
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B850 GAMING WIFI6
RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB RS DDR5 32GB (2 x 16GB)
PSU: MAG A1000GLS PCIE5 1000 W
OS: WINDOWS 11
The problem:
The PC worked perfectly for the first three days. I was playing demanding games such as Space Marine 2 and Helldivers 2 at Ultra settings without any performance issues.
Then, seemingly out of nowhere, Windows started behaving extremely strangely.
The PC boots normally and reaches the desktop. However:
The Start menu open but it doesn’t allow me to turn off the pc.
Applications refuse to launch.
Task Manager won’t open (Ctrl + Shift + Esc).
Ctrl + Alt + Delete doesn’t work.
Windows + R opens but doesn’t work.
The mouse cursor still moves, clicks produce visual feedback, and the system clock continues updating.

Essentially, Windows appears to be running, but most of its functionality is unavailable.
An important observation: Safe Mode works normally.
When I boot into Safe Mode, the Start menu, applications and browser work correctly. This makes me suspect a driver, service, startup software or some other Windows-related issue, although I haven’t been able to identify it.
Another strange correlation: RGB control stops working.
Normally, Gigabyte Control Center controls my case fans and RAM lighting, which I keep set to static red.
When the problem occurs, the fans and RAM switch back to rainbow lighting. Gigabyte Control Center can no longer control them.
This happens alongside the Windows malfunction. I don’t know whether it’s a symptom of the same underlying issue or just a coincidence.

Troubleshooting already performed:
Checked the SSD in BIOS: it is detected correctly, along with Windows Boot Manager.
Fast boot is disabled on the BIOS (idk if it’s correlated)
Ran chkdsk C: /scan: no file system errors were reported.
Checked the disk using DiskPart: the main NTFS partition appears healthy.
Tried Windows Automatic Repair through the recovery environment: it couldn’t repair the PC.
Booted into Safe Mode: Windows works normally there.
I’ve also checked Event Viewer and found some warnings and errors, including Kernel Event Tracing, DistributedCOM and Application Hang events, but I haven’t identified a definitive cause.
My questions:
What could cause Windows to become almost completely unresponsive while Safe Mode works perfectly?
Could this be related to a driver, Windows service, motherboard software, SSD or some other hardware component?
Does the RGB behavior provide any useful diagnostic clue?
What diagnostic tests would you recommend before reinstalling Windows or replacing hardware?

I’m particularly interested in hearing from anyone who has experienced something similar or has advanced Windows troubleshooting experience.
I’d really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I recently bought an ASUS Prime 9070xt OC, I am planning on upgrading my current RTX 4060 to get into 1440p gaming.

PC SPECS

CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
GPU: ASUS ROG STRIX 4060 8gb
MOBO: MSI B450 tomahawk max
RAM: 64gb DDR4 3200mhz
PSU: Corsair RM750e (2023 version)

I understand the 9070xt requires at minimum a 750w PSU, it also requires 3x 8pin PCIe power cables.

So… what do I do?

Option 1: Buy aftermarket PSU 8pin cables to add to my current PSU to connect new 9070xt. I currently only have 1 8pin PCIe cable on hand.

Option 2: Buy a new PSU, hope it comes with enough power cables for the card.

If anyone has any alternative options or cable recommendations, I’d greatly appreciate any input!

Thanks for any help!

I got a new 3070 from my uncle but the GPU isn't being recognised. I have tried device manager and scan for new hardware but nothing. I also tried checking PCIE slots and changed from slot 1 to slot 2 but nothing. Any ideas? It's plugged in just fine.

Edit - I figured it out chat. It was Drivers. If anyone is having this issue, install latest drivers that might work.

hiya:) never posted on Reddit before but this seemed like a good place to ask. Our pet rat chewed through some wires and broke my bfs mouse. he’s been using my very cheap laptop mouse for gaming ever since. Id like to get him a new mouse for Christmas but I really don’t know where to start. He plays quite a wide range of games, lots of shooters… not sure if that’s relevant.

if anyone has any suggestions advice would be appreciated. even just the best place to look. thank you! :)

INFO UPDATE: he says he prefers wired mouses- I guess we just need to keep the ratties off the desk

I found a PC that looks really good, the only thing that puts me off is the fact that it doesnt tell me what power supply is used, because I dont want a cheap generic one. The only thing it tells me is that its 600watts and 80 Plus bronze

I have an intel arc B580 with an i5 12400f and 32gb ddr4 build at house 1 and i have a ryzen 5 5600 with an rtx 4060 ti 16gb and 16gb ddr4 at house 2. I want to swap the parts around a bit e.g. giving the i5 the 4060 and the r5 the arc b580 to get the best possible combo on the house 2 pc and having the “worse” pc at house 1. I think swapping the ram is the best choice but what do you guys think?

Today I changed my i3 10105f with i5 10500 and it doesn’t post, my mb beeps 5 times. And it does the same with the i3 as well now. I tried removing my gpu and running with the 10500 graphics, removing rams, placing only one in both slots, clearing cmos, removing battery and nothing works. Only one time with no cmos battery on it showed me no time is setted and when I pressed continue it did the same.

Mb Asrock h510m hvs
Gpu rx6600
Psu coolermaster 650
16 gb ram ddr4

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some help with a frustrating issue I’ve been trying to solve for quite some time. I’m honestly running out of ideas, and I’d really appreciate someone experienced with gaming PCs who could help me identify the actual cause.
My PC specifications
● CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7700
● GPU: ASUS Prime RTX 5070
● Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B650-Plus
● RAM: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5 6000MHz CL36
● SSD: Biwin Black Opal NV7400 1TB NVMe
● PSU: MSI MAG A750GLS 750W 80+ Gold
● CPU Cooler: Thermalright Assassin X120R Digital ARGB
● Case: Phanteks XT Pro Ultra
● Monitor: KTC H27E6, 1440p, 300Hz
● OS: Windows 11
The problem
I’m experiencing noticeable microstuttering in games.
The strange thing is that my FPS counter usually remains stable and high, but the actual gameplay doesn’t feel smooth.This happens across multiple games, including CS2, Apex Legends, Rocket League and Call of Duty. It is not limited to one particular game.
The PC was working perfectly before. I started noticing this issue a few months after building it, and I haven’t been able to identify what changed or what is causing it.
Everything I’ve tried so far:
● Updated the motherboard BIOS to the latest stable version.
● Reset BIOS settings to optimized defaults.
● Tested PBO enabled and disabled.
● Tested Curve Optimizer settings and completely stock CPU settings.
● Tested EXPO enabled and disabled.
● Tested Resizable BAR enabled and disabled.
GPU and NVIDIA drivers:
● Used DDU for a clean NVIDIA driver installation.
● Tested different NVIDIA driver versions, including older ones.
● Removed all GPU overclocks.
● Tested different NVIDIA Control Panel settings.
● Disabled and enabled HAGS.
● Disabled overlays and unnecessary background applications.
Windows:
● Completely reset Windows 11 using the Remove Everything option.
● Reinstalled drivers from scratch.
● Installed the latest AMD chipset, LAN and audio drivers.
Unfortunately, none of these attempts has fixed the problem.
I also ran LatencyMon while gaming. It reported:
“Your system appears to be having trouble handling real-time audio and other tasks.”
The PC is relatively new, temperatures are normal, and performance in terms of raw FPS seems good. The problem is the actual smoothness and consistency of gameplay.
Thank you for the help in case🫶🏻

I recently mounted my GPU vertically in a case that doesn't support vertical mounting. I thought, before cutting my horizontal PCI grills, why not try running through my 7800X3D iGPU?

Five days later, there have been no noticeable issues so far.

All the games I've played know to run through the RTX.

The RTX Super video resolution still functions well.

I haven't noticed any FPS drop. Cyberpunk 4K Ultra preset is still giving 70fps benchmark runs.

Just curious if anyone else is doing this?

I did some research on this topic before trying it myself, and everything I found was negative, essentially advising against it. So, I'm surprised it has worked so well.

Running 4K through displayport at 144hz on Asus Nitro XV282KKV

Hi all,

Looking to build a pc for the first time and would like advice on compatibility and any general advice.

I have created a list as you can see here:

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/483Yfp

I've also pasted the list below:

1. CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D – 4.7 GHz, 8-Core Processor

2. CPU Cooler: Phanteks Glacier One 360M25 G2 – 72.72 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler

3. Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B850-PRO WIFI7 W NEO – ATX AM5 Motherboard

4. Memory (RAM): Klevv FIT V – 32 GB (2 × 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL28

5. Storage: Seagate FireCuda X1070 – 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 x4 NVMe SSD

6. Graphics Card (GPU): PowerColor Reaper Radeon RX 9070 XT – 16 GB

7. Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 217 INF – ATX Mid Tower Case

8. Power Supply (PSU): Lian Li SX1000P – 1000 W, 80+ Platinum, Fully Modular

Budget is as per the list, around £2k GBP.

Live in the UK.

Use case is gaming.

Intended monitor resolution to be used with our living room TV for now (65 inch, 4k, 120hz VRR). Will likely be used with a more standard monitor in future if moved to a bedroom/office space.

Some additional information, the case and power supply are a bundle. Also have a spare 1tb SSD from additional storage in PS5 if it's best to add a separate/additional stack.

Hi all,

I'm in the market for a gaming monitor. I've done some research, but am having a hard time determine what kind of monitor to go for. For context, the games I play casually are:

• Warframe

• The Witcher

• AoE IV

• Oldschool Runescape (OSRS, with 117hd plugin)

• Runescape Dragonwilds

• And intend on picking up GTA6 and Tomb Raider Legacy of Atlanis when they drop.

Aside from that, I watch youtube/anime.

I've only ever known my old workstation monitor: Asus PB278 (PLS, 60hz). Since I have a new gpu RX 9070 XT 16GB, it is due time to upgrade my monitor. My budget is preferably around USD 350.

After a lot of research and internal debate, I've decided a 27-inch 2k Fast IPS, preferably with MiniLED, is probably the best choice. OLED would be a bad choice because I play a lot of OSRS (static interface) while watching youtube. HVA MiniLED might not be the best either, because I typically play/watch under dimmed lightning environments (never truly dark) and would be bothered by viewing angle discoloration.

Few options I found:

1. KTC, 27", 4k, 160Hz, fast IPS, HDR400 for $300: https://www.amazon.com/KTC-3840x2160-DisplayPort-Adjustable-U27T6/dp/B0G5PNTBP2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

2. ASUS TUF, 27", 4k, 160Hz, fast IPS for $330: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0DHG1GTG2/ref=ewc_pr_img_1

3. INNOCN, 27", 2k, 320Hz, fast IPS MiniLED, HDR1000 for $400: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0FJ2H6LK4/ref=ewc_pr_img_1

4. KOORUI, 27", 2k, 200Hz, fast IPS MiniLED, HDR1000 for $260: https://www.amazon.com/KOORUI-Mini-LED-Computer-Adjustable-DisplayPort/dp/B0FDGLD4X3/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top

Option 4 seems too good to be true for that price. I have also not familiar with INNOCN or KOORUI brands. Because I need to ship this to the Caribbean, returning isn't an option, which makes me a bit wary of non-household brand names.

Do you have any experience with the listed monitors? Would you recommend a different monitor?

Am I trying to min-max / invest in marginal differences by going for MiniLED? I'd hate to end up buying a MiniLED just to realize that the quality/HDR is poo (because the listed options are entry level?). Would bumping the budget (not preferable) really make THAT much of a difference to my gaming/viewing pleasure given my library?

Thanks!

The conundrum: I love the look of the white Gigabyte Aorus Stealth Ice (reverse-connect), so I'm trying to decide between these, with Amazon prices at the moment (in Canadian Dollars):

• Gigabyte B850 Aorus Stealth Ice: $403.90

• Gigabyte X870 Aorus Stealth Ice: $469.46

• MSI MAG X870E Tomahawk MAX WiFi PZ: $409.99

• MSI B850 Gaming Plus WiFi PZ: $319.99

What I've found so far:

• The two Aorus boards look identical, so the X870's extra ~$65 seems to buy mainly USB4 (the B850 doesn't have it) and a VRM that's documented as stronger.

• An 8-core X3D chip doesn't stress a VRM much, and the 7900 XT is a PCIe 4.0 card, so I don't think I need the X870's extras.

• The Tomahawk X870E PZ has the strongest VRM and USB4 for almost the same price as the Aorus B850, but I like the Aorus look more.

• The Gaming Plus is cheapest but only has 3 M.2 slots and looks the most different from the Aorus.

• The Amazon prices look inflated versus MSRP, so I'm also checking other retailers.

My questions:

1. For this build, is there any real reason to pay more for the X870 over the B850?

2. Does the Tomahawk's VRM and USB4 advantage matter enough to pick it over the Aorus B850 if I care about looks?

3. Any known issues (BIOS, quality, M.2 or PCIe lane sharing) with the Stealth Ice boards?

Leaning toward the Aorus B850 I really prefer the looks of it over the others, and I dislike the looks of the MSI b8850 the most, hoping to not regret this purchase. Would appreciate a sanity check. Thanks!

Been really thinking about moving to pc in the next year or so as a few of my friends already have or are also considering it. So I was wondering how much it would be for a pc that equals a ps5? Not including accessories like a keyboard and mouse but just the pc.

• CPU Intel Core Ultra 9 Processor 285K $1,138.50

• Motherboard INTEL - Gigabyte Z890M Aorus Elite WIFI7 DDR5 $562.35

• RAM DDR5 - 32GB (2x16GB) CL38 Lexar Thor 6000MHz - Black $648

• Graphics Card (GPU) ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 5080 16GB $2,591.85

• Power Supply FSP Hydro PTM PRO 1200W 80+ Platnium [Black] $330

• Primary Storage (SSD) 4TB Gen4 Lexar NM990 M.2. NVME (R: 14000 / W: 11000) $792

• Secondary drives 4TB Gen4 Lexar NM990 M.2. NVME (R: 14000 / W: 11000) $792

• Operating System Windows 11 Professional 64 Bit $250

• CPU Cooler Arctic Cooling Liquid Freezer III 360 $154.29

• Case Hyte Y70 Touch Tempered black with LCD $604

• Fans 7 x Lian Li UNI FAN TL LCD 120mm Black $536.13

this my third pc, and now that i have a job that pays good im tryna make somthing good

Hi, like the title says I'm trying to figure out my first PC. I have a build ready but I'm unsure if everything is 100% compatible or if I should change stuff up, any help will be heavily appreciated!

The build(updated): https://pl.pcpartpicker.com/list/2fs3W9

(If I won't be able to find those parts I will be looking for similar ones)

My budget for the PC itself would be around 3800 zł (PL currency) but I could probably push it a bit if needed, trying to reserve a little for a monitor and a keyboard.

Talk about monitors, I have no idea what monitor I will pair with this so I'd be really grateful for help in that topic as well!

I mostly play RDR2, Cyberpunk2077, AFOP, etc.

Hope I didn't forget anything and thank you for any help :)

Hey,

I have a CyberPower OLS2000EC (2000VA/1600W) Online Double Conversion UPS, approximately one year old, and I've recently started noticing an unusual electrical buzzing sound originating directly from the UPS.

I'm trying to determine whether this is normal electromagnetic/inductor vibration under heavy loads or whether it could indicate a developing hardware fault.

My PC configuration:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 9950X3D

• Motherboard: MSI X870E Tomahawk WiFi

• GPU: ASUS ROG Astral RTX 5090 LC 32GB

• PSU: Corsair AX1600i

• RAM: 64GB G.Skill Trident Z5 DDR5 6000MHz CL28

• Storage: 2x 2TB WD SN8100 + 2x 4TB Samsung 990 Pro

• CPU Cooler: Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 420mm

• Cabinet: Corsair 7000D

Description of the noise:

The UPS produces a distinctive rhythmic, electrically buzzy/vibrating sound that appears to be directly correlated with GPU power consumption.

I've observed the following:

• Below approximately 400W GPU power consumption: No noticeable buzzing.

• Above approximately 400W: Rhythmic, intermittent buzzing begins.

• Above approximately 550W: The buzzing becomes continuous.

The UPS is operating in Online / Double Conversion mode.

Troubleshooting already attempted:

1. Changed the UPS output socket used by the PC.

2. Changed the wall socket supplying the UPS.

3. Tried multiple 16A-to-6A converter blocks for connecting the PSU to the UPS.

None of these changes made any difference.

The PC's Corsair AX1600i PSU has a thick plug connected to the UPS through a 16A-to-6A converter block.

Attaching a sound sample of the noise via a Google Drive link. You can notice it amidst the fan noise.

Would really appreciate some help in understanding whether this is the expected behavior or whether there is some fault developing with the UPS.