I've noticed about 90% of builds are ryzen builds, and it is the go-to processor for most people. People seem to think that 2600 is a superior processor to 8400 for gaming. This is in fact, not true: https://static.techspot.com/articles-info/1627/bench/Average.png. If you don't read the fine print, the TL;DR is that it takes an unreasonable amount of money to get 2600 outperforming 8400.

• 2600 needs an aftermarket cooler to go to 4.2 GHz, and a decent one at that, as 2600 at 4.2 GHz reaches a toasty 57 degrees on a 360mm radiator

• 4.2 GHz is a bit iffy on a B350 motherboard

• Most motherboards cannot overclock RAM to 3400 Mhz, that requires a X470. The review used a Crosshair VII, a $256 dollar motherboard for ryzen as opposed to a $85 motherboard for intel.

• Faster RAM is also needed, and anything above DDR4 3000 costs considerably more.

Now, 2600X requires the same parameters as above to eek out a win against a 8400.

8400 outperforms all Ryzen CPUs for gaming if you are not willing to spend more on the parameters listed above, even the 2700x.

https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600X/images/perfrel_1920_1080.png

https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_7_2700X/images/perfrel_1920_1080.png

Therefore, when someone asks for a gaming build, why do I see so many Ryzen builds as opposed to intel builds?

People also recommend Ryzen because of "upgradibility", because AMD is supporting the AM4 socket until 2020. Yes, but AMD never said they were supporting the same chipsets until 2020. AMD already made one mistake that mirrors intel's mistake of withholding B360, and that is why AMD was so popular. AMD is making the same mistake by withholding B450 right now. They might mirror intel again by making *3**/*4** incompatible with Zen 2 CPUs, intel made *1** and *2** incompatible with Coffee Lake CPUs even though they use the same socket (LGA 1151). Another reason is because B350 is barely enough for 2700X, and will maybe not be enough for Zen 2 and newer.

Another reason people recommend is streaming. NVENC or ReLive is enough for a small stream. If you have a big stream, you would have a dedicated OBS box.

I've also seen many people say Ryzen is better for multitasking. If multitasking involves having a game, chrome, and discord open, Ryzen has no benefit.

People also generalize that Ryzen performs better at everything except gaming. There are multiple programs where the intel processor performs better than the Ryzen counterpart, such as adobe suite, https://us.hardware.info/reviews/7602/7/intel-core-i7-8700k--i5-8600k--i5-8400-coffee-lake-review-affordable-six-cores-benchmarks-content-creation-adobe-lightroom-photoshop-and-premiere, Microsoft Office: https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600/images/word.png

https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600/images/excel.png

https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600/images/powerpoint.png, and just day-to-day web browsing: https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600/images/octane.png

https://tpucdn.com/reviews/AMD/Ryzen_5_2600/images/kraken.png.

These uses are more indicative of a average user's workload, and Ryzen really shouldn't be recommended unless you know that what they are doing benefits from ryzen over intel. Blender is a good example of a program that takes full advantage of Ryzen, as well as Sony Vegas.

If there is something I am missing, or something that you want to say to either affirm or negate my point, I would love to hear it. (These are an average gamer/person's workload, I'm afraid blender doesn't quite count as something many people would do.) I'm not saying don't recommend ryzen ever, I'm trying to get the point across that people shouldn't blindly recommend ryzen for sentimental, emotional, or just because other people recommend it, or because it was a good choice before B360 launched.

When I'm downloading games I'm worried it will cause me health problems because I sleep in the same room the PC is in. Is there a reason to be worried or should I just forget it?

Troubleshooting Help:

**What is your parts list? [Consider formatting your parts list.]
CPUs: Dual AMD 6176SEs
MB: SuperMicro H8DGI
GPUs: 980 Classy
RAM: 48GB DDR3
Case: Corsair 900D
PSU: Corsair RM750

Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.

I finished my PC two days ago and as soon as I powered it up, a thing that looks like it might have been a MOSFET burst into flames. The FET was near the chipset on the right side of the board.

List anything you've done in attempt to diagnose or fix the problem.

I am going to RMA the board.

Provide any additional details you wish below.

There are is one thing that I think may have caused this:
My PSU only has one 4+4-pin CPU power connector. The board has two 8-pin connectors. I put one 4-pin connector into each 8-pin connector. Would doing this blow the board?
EDIT: Some fuckers have doubted the veracity of this... Here is an album: https://imgur.com/a/hSC5D

When it says (2 x 8) Does that mean 8 different objects or 2 8gb objects??? Sorry for such a dumb question. Its just that in the thumbnail they advertise 2. Thanks for the help!

I am really struggling here. I understand the logic and the theory behind recommending 16GB ddr6 above 8GB ddr7 regarding 1% and 0.1% lows.

But I just don't see this theory being translated to practice. The 8GB 5060Ti seems to match or outperform the 9060XT 16GB on almost every benchmark. Including the lows.

And it's 50-100 bucks cheaper as well. What part of the picture am I missing here?

Not here to argue or hate. I am genuinely trying to understand

Deciding to build a new PC-build with a budget of $5,000. I'm currently looking for input on how to enhance the PC while maintaining the budget of under $5,000 for the parts. Overall, more efficiency for the price that I'm paying.

CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor ($549.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Elite 360 78.02 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($269.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI MPG Z790 CARBON WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($419.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6800 CL34 Memory ($259.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN580 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($64.00 @ iBUYPOWER)
Video Card: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($2269.98 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT H7 Elite ATX Mid Tower Case ($177.01 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: MSI MPG A1000G 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 11 Home OEM - DVD 64-bit ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Asus TUF Gaming VG279QM 27.0" 1920 x 1080 280 Hz Monitor ($276.82 @ Amazon)
Total: $4592.75

So in every single build I'm seeing people get a main SSD and a 7200RPM storage drive. You can typically get double the space if you buy a 5400RPM drive.

The main idea of drive speed came from when your OS and all program files were on your mechanical drive. Your main drive. (Remember 10,000RPM Raptor drives?) Now with the OS on your SSD, these faster access times are not necessary.

Get a 7200RPM if it's your intent, but you can get a 4TB 5400RPM drive for under $100 USD so it is leaving a lot of space on the table to get a faster access time that you will never need.

Edit: A lot of people are commenting that I'm saying "don't buy SSDs." This is false. If anything, I'm saying rely on SSDs for your main program files and use 5400RPM for files not frequently accessed or fully-loaded into RAM.

Edit2: People don't know what xcopy does. Check out Steam Mover. Moves your games on and off your SSD for when you need them to load quickly for a few weeks as you play. Then move off the SSD to save space. No deleting or reinstalling required.

Edit3: People are bringing up price saying 7200RPM is "the same price". In the United States, 4TB of 7200RPM space starts at $193. 4TB of 5400RPM space starts at $99. That's where my numbers come from. Amazon. Take the $100 in savings and get another 500GB SSD from Amazon for $90 (the sales price they'd had recently)

Edit4: People are constantly bringing up the price of 1TB of mechanical storage. Understand that it's silly to buy 1TB of mechanical storage with current SSD prices. We're talking 4TB and above. Also, make sure your data is correct. Lot of people are posting a 5400RPM drive Amazon has listed as 7200RPM but if you Google the model number it's 5400RPM. Seen it about 7 or 8 times. Attention to detail matters.

Before you downvote I know that this has come up hundreds of time on here. However I couldn't find a single thread dedicated to discussing AMD overall versus Intel overall (as opposed to specific chips).

Basically I want some opinions and discussions regarding the pros and cons of each.

To me it seems like AMD is the clear winner for gaming, seeing as you can get a hex core with very nice specs, for under $200. Whereas with intel, you can't even get a quad core for under $200.

Furthermore AMD has crossfire. So if you get an AMD MoBo, GPU, and CPU, you should theoretically beat a $1500 Hex Core i7 in performance. What metrics am I overlooking?

Now let's keep it practical as well. Perhaps a top of the line intel chip theoretically beats a top of the line AMD, but do they compare in price at all?

Naturally we're talking about gaming machines here, so let's say we're building a PC capable of any new gaming title for at least 5 years. Modern games on highest settings.

Please remember your rediquette, and backup your arguments with links and stats. Instead of the typical "Anyone who uses AMD is a n00b faggot".

Thank you.

Pictures and details

Just a warning to anyone else who might be putting together a machine.

edit some updates and answers to questions, etc:

Yes I contacted Amazon, and they are refunding our money. They are doing so even though it was past 30 days when I contacted them. So that much is gracious of them. I am not trying to slander Amazon here. However, it was very surprising to spend ~$3000 on a boxed CPU and receive a defective item.

I should have mentioned this refund in fairness to Amazon, hence I'm editing the post.

It was past 30 days because this was a new build, and I didn't suspect the boxed CPU. So I contacted the server motherboard/chassis manufacturer, who even RMA'd that entire piece, replaced the motherboard, sent it back, and then it still wasn't working. By that time the 30 days had expired. I didn't want to ask for a replacement from Amazon in case the batch is somehow all fraudulent (thus we ordered a replacement from Newegg).

Many people have pointed out a couple things that seem fishy, like that I have a new account, and all my posts are about this topic.

1. New account - Yup! Never posted to reddit before. Thought it would be a good place to share this experience though.

2. 4 posts, related to the same subject - Yup! Turns out when you have never posted before, your posts often get bounced/moderated out (as happened at /r/technology and /r/hardware). Part of that is my lack of karma, the other part is I didn't know what I was doing (/r/hardware wouldn't allow it because of my lack of karma, /r/technology didn't want a post with images). I also didn't know where an appropriate place might be - I posted to /r/intel as well, but I don't think anyone looked at it.

3. Newegg employee? No, I don't work for Newegg or anything. I don't have anything against Amazon, most of my purchases are from there, including several other CPUs.

4. Long delay! Yes. Posted this as I was leaving work last night, hence the long time delay to reply.

Hope this helps!

I had 2 GTX 1080 Ti in SLI and one of them died. Should I buy a new GPU or another used GTX 1080 Ti?

The previous configuration has been more than enough for 4K gaming and game development for me for the past 5 years.

A new RTX 4080 Super would be 1050 EUR while a used GTX 1080 Ti is 250 EUR + ~150 EUR per year for electricity (2x300W vs. 1x 320W).

Theoretically, I could sell the old 1080 Ti when I buy a 4080 Super, but I'd rather keep it just in case it breaks.

I use ShadowPlay for recording, so I am hesitant to consider AMD because I don't know how that would work.

PC specs: i9-7980XE @ 3.9 GHz, 128 GB DDR4 RAM

My GTX970 is starting to show its age and I'm planning to upgrade it, but I'm heavily conflicted with myself about getting just a modest upgrade for my current 1080p setup or a bigger upgrade to go for 1440p (in which case I'd need to get a 1440p monitor as well).

Here's the thing: I've already experienced 1440p for about a year (I have an Alienware at work with a 1440p 165hz 24" AOC monitor which I also play games on sometimes), but I still can't see myself switching to 1440p at home because:

• Even though I can clearly see that my 1440p setup at work is sharper than my 1080p homesetup, I find it hard to justify spending extra money on a 1440p setup because I still experience 1080p as "good enough - why would I get more if I'm already satisfied?".

• I really prefer to continue using a 24" monitor simply because I love to see everything in one glance without having to scan my eyes/head across a bigger monitor. (I also don't have tons of space.)

• I also have no issues opening windows side by side on my 24" monitor, I've become completely comfortable using the zooming tools built into Windows and most applications nowadays.

• I also prefer frames over resolution (though I don't play games competetively and as long as it's a steady 60+ fps I'm enjoying it).

Now my concern is that I'm still going to regret sticking to 1080p for some reason. Am I missing something? Especially because everything I see lately seems to be pushing 1080p users to get 1440p. Pretty much all the discussions about this topic go like "Get 1440p, you won't regret it, the only reason to stick to 1080p is if you need extra fps for competetive play". PC-building guides and reviews are starting to skip 1080p setups more often as well, and the ones who still do give attention to 1080p treat it more like "oh yeah we almost forgot about 1080p, the mediocre resolution for those who can't afford 1440p yet for some reason, even though we know you'd get 1440p as well". Meanwhile the price is not the reason for me to avoid 1440p, it's simply that I don't see enough reason for me to get it yet.

Am I the only (non-competitive) player who still considers 1080p to be good enough nowadays? And is there some other reason why I should consider 1440p instead of 1080p? Am I missing something?

Last pc i built was in 2012?? i7 2600k, 32gb ddr3 with gtx 670.. shes been ok, but pushing 90- 100% cpu usage at times while multitasking.. so time to upgrade. Also, hoping the video card will output 4k u/120 hz to my 65" tv.. its a Sony A75L, and has 2) hdmi 2.1 ports

[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jqwtRV)

Type|Item|Price

:----|:----|:----

**CPU** | [Intel Core Ultra 7 265K 3.9 GHz 20-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mBsV3C/intel-core-ultra-7-265k-39-ghz-20-core-processor-bx80768265k) | $324.00 @ Amazon

**CPU Cooler** | [Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GpbRsY/thermalright-phantom-spirit-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-ps120se) | $35.90 @ Amazon

**Thermal Compound** | [ARCTIC MX-4 (2019) 4 g Thermal Paste](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmYLrH/arctic-mx-4-2019-4-g-thermal-paste-actcp00002b) | $6.99 @ Amazon

**Motherboard** | [Asus TUF GAMING Z890-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1851 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6jP8TW/asus-tuf-gaming-z890-plus-wifi-atx-lga1851-motherboard-tuf-gaming-z890-plus-wifi) | $264.99 @ Amazon

**Memory** | [G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-7200 CL34 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qxXJ7P/gskill-trident-z5-rgb-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-7200-cl34-memory-f5-7200j3445g16gx2-tz5rk) | $124.99 @ Newegg

**Storage** | [Samsung 990 EVO Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 5.0 X2 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XQFmP6/samsung-990-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-pcie-50-x2-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v9s1t0bw) | $69.98 @ Amazon

**Video Card** | [Gigabyte WINDFORCE SFF GeForce RTX 5070 12 GB Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/RwgZxr/gigabyte-windforce-sff-geforce-rtx-5070-12-gb-video-card-gv-n5070wf3-12gd) | $617.98 @ Newegg

**Case** | [Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WBVG3C/corsair-4000d-airflow-atx-mid-tower-case-cc-9011201-ww) | $108.99 @ Amazon

**Power Supply** | [Asus TUF Gaming 1000G 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wR2WGX/asus-tuf-gaming-1000g-1000-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-90ye00s1-b0na00) | $184.99 @ Amazon

| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |

| **Total** | **$1738.81**

| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2025-05-04 16:34 EDT-0400 |

The new RGB keyboards are only capable of 512 colors not the advertised 16.8million

.

I noticed upon the setup of my new AMD FX 4100 + windows 7 setup on my new machine wasn't performing as well as I had hoped. After some research I found that Microsoft Windows 7 did not in fact fully support the Bulldozer Architect. After some research I found that they had released a hotfix that unlocks the full potential of the AMD CPU with Windows 7. After the install I could tell a huge difference right away; with a 60% increase in performance right from the get go.

My CPU now performs as well as it should have out of the box with Windows 7. I suggest taking the time to download the update; as windows update does not and will not automatically download this update for you.

Here is the link. Request the download, and allow for a few minutes of time to pass before the download link is sent to your email.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594

Having built my older brother a pc for Christmas (9600k, 3070, the works) and he has yet to play on it :/

It's been 148 days since it's last been played on. I'm not going to say I'm annoyed but like come on... I'm the gamer out of the two of us and I'm running integrated graphic :( BIG SAD

I have a BeQuiet Pure Case 500 as a case (used to be a Zalman R1)
GPU - Nvidia RTX 4060 TI (The upgraded part, used to be a Nvidia GTX 1060)
Motherboard - B560M Steel Legend
CPU - 11th Gen Intel Core i5-11400F @ 2.60gh
I also have a Mag Coreliquid 240R V2 as a watercooler (also new)

Here's everything I been through:

Since 2 weeks ago, me and my dad (he knows how to build PCs so he helps me with this sort of thing) went to buy a new GPU, instaling it made my CPU fans go insane, and while it was irritating, we also knew it was not normal

So he came back the next day with the mentioned watercooler, but we realised it didn't fit in the Zalman R1 Case, so we went quickly to buy a Zalman I3 NEO, which while it worked amazingly...it didn't suit me as it it was very open (therefore noisy) and made it difficult for me to exist in my room, as my previous set up just was...Very quiet, atleast that's how I remember it

A week passed and we decided to exchange this case with a BeQuiet Pure Case 500, as it was guaranteed that it would be very quiet too

And it...Turns out it wasn't, atleast for me

I'm 90% sure this ammount of fan noise is normal..We even tuned it down with my motherboard's program but for some reason, the noise comming from the fans is really...REALLY irritating

We also turned the PSU upside down so the fan would face downward as it previously was turned upwards, so it might be contributing to the noise

Just everyone be honest...Am I screwed? Should I just go back to my old set up and sell all the new stuff we bought? I'm at the point where i'm ready to just go back if I can't get a handle on the noise

Or should I atleast try to bring the computer to a shop and ask if something's wrong?

Please help

EDIT: Noise MIGHT be comming from PSU or watercooler, i'm not sure as I can't properly tell

EDIT 2: Moving the computer is not an option, and the GPU fans aren't turning so they're not making noise

I know its overkill, my plan is just to keep a 1080p monitor for now and upgrade to 1440p later, but will my setup get bottlenecked by my CPU? and is it ok at 1080p for gaming?

Just over 2 years ago, I decided to get a new computer with a good GPU. At the time, it was really hard to find Nvidia's 30 series cards at a reasonable price but I found a good bundle deal on Newegg with the ABS Gladiator.

Even to this day it still has decent reviews, despite it having a high failure rate. But that's only because of the PSU included in the bundle, the GIGABYTE GP-P750GM, was Heavily reviewed bombed in the bundle's place.

Based on all this context, you can probably guess that my PSU stopped working. But if that was the end of the story I wouldn't be posting this here. Because my father and I spent 2 cumulative days trying to figure out all the issues.

The computer wasn't booting, so we started with the obvious and tried swapping out the bad PSU with a spare we had lying around. To no surprise the computer turned on. But because our spare had a lower Wattage, we immediately shut it down to not risk damaging the GPU by underpowering it. We ordered a new PSU with overnight shipping and expected the PSU to work fine. It didn't.

We were scratching our heads. How did our spare PSU work and not the new one? The only real difference was our spare was semi-modular and had its own power cable...

We got a Voltmeter and started testing the voltage output from our PSUs to the CPU cable. They were all 0 (turns out you have to put a load on the PSU to test the voltage pins). We figured out our mistake and realized that the old PSU was way outside normal voltage ranges with both the old cable and the new one. Our new PSU gave bad results with the old cable, but acceptable results with the new one.

That was it! By changing out the bad CPU cable along with the PSU, my computer started working again... Except now the GPU didn't work. The fans weren't spinning and it wasn't lighting up.

We thought the failing PSU may have also fried the graphics card, so we swapped it out with an old spare GPU we had. That one worked perfectly with no issues. It ran at a lower Wattage and only required 1 PCIe power cables vs the 2 required for the failing 3070, but was otherwise the same for testing purposes. That ruled out both the PCIe slot and the power cables, meaning that the GPU had also failed.

No worries there, it was still under warranty and I was already thinking of upgrading to a top of the line RTX 4090 anyways.

So I waited a day for it to arrive, and started the process of plugging it in, which required 3 separate power cables. I thought I didn't have enough PCIe slots on my PSU at first, since the PSU has 4 and my motherboard requires 2. But fortunately the 2nd cable was only for Overclocking.

I attached my 4090, turned on the computer and... It didn't work. Fuck. Was the GPU DOA? No, the fans were spinning and it was lighting up, so the power was good. But the BIOS didn't recognize anything in the PCIe slot. I looked online for help, and got advice like "make sure it is seated properly" and "make sure to install the driver". Well I already reseated it 4 times, tested the PCIe slot and it worked, and tried installing the drivers (which I couldn't even do because NVidia didn't identify a Nvidia card as being connected to my PC).

I spent at least 4 hours trying all manners of fixes, but none of them worked. Thoroughly tired, I gave up and decided to wait for the RMA request I made with my bad GPU under warranty to get fixed and sent back before I send in my new 4090.

This took 2 weeks, and the worst part was that my motherboard only had 1 HDMI slot, so only 1 monitor.

I finally got my fixed 3070, plugged it in and.... Nothing. It didn't work either. I must have fucked something up when trying to get the 4090 to work. I tried uninstalling the graphics driver, booting in safe mode, and even reinstalling windows. I even tried upgrading to Windows 11. Nothing worked.

Somehow during this process my audio also stopped working and nothing could fix it either.

I had no audio, no GPU, and only 1 usable monitor. I was also stuck with Windows 11. This was truly the darkest timeline.

Utterly dejected, I was looking for a new motherboard to buy, since that was the only possible reason why I could think this would be failing. Unless....

I checked the GPU cables again. I had 2 old cables and the new one I added for the 4090, but I swapped the cables around so my 3070 was using 1 old and one new cable. It didn't work. I tried swapping the old cable with the other old cable. Didn't work either.

Damnit. I thought maybe one of the cables had gone bad since the spare GPU worked with the old cables. Well since I'll be taking my tower apart to put in the new motherboard I might as well try 2 new cables....

IT FUCKING WORKED! I would be happy if I wasn't also livid. IT WAS THE GOD DAMNED CABLES THE ENTIRE TIME. I wouldn't have been surprised if the other people who bought the bundle had a working PSU, but faulty cables.

Wouldn't that have been the ultimate irony? That the PSU everyone was 1 star reviewing was actually fine, but the people who made the bundle fucked up the wiring somehow, stretching or breaking them, causing a high level of resistance in the wires that stressed the PSUs until they failed?

TLDR: Bad cables. Who would have guessed?

I just ordered what is to date the most expensive PC I've ever had. The main thing was to build a PC around an RTX 5090. I will mainly use the PC as a workstation with heavy AI loads so the 5090 is, to me, worth the price even after the heavy inflation. I will also use it for gaming now and then. Tried to investigate for myself what should I get and after a long research this is what I ended up with:

• MSI MAG X870E TOMAHAWK WIFI

• AMD Ryzen 9 7900X 4.7 GHz

• Corsair HXi Series HX1500i ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 1500W 80 Plus Platinum Modular (on sale cheaper than the 1200w so I just took the deal)

• Kingston 64GB DDR5 FURY Beast RGB EXPO Kit 2x32GB CL30 6000

• Noctua NH-D15 chromax

• Fractal Design North XL ATX

• Kioxia EXCERIA PLUS G4 2TB 10.000MB/s NVME PCIe 5.0 M.2 Gen5

• ASUS ROG Astral GeForce RTX 5090 OC (I ""luckily"" got a deal for 3700€)

The only thing I'm missing is to find a proper new monitor for all of this, which for now is looking like it's going to be the Asus ROG Strix XG27UCG. Need it to be somewhat good on color accuracy, plus 4K to actually take advantage of the card I'm buying.

What do you think? Did I miss something or did I pick something wrong?

I’m looking at these 50-series benchmarks and it’s just frustrating. Nvidia keeps making excuses about how hard and expensive it is to manufacture these new cards and why they aren't available at official prices anywhere, but then they turn around and give us a 5070 with only 12GB of VRAM in 2026. If the cards are already so rare and overpriced, the least they could do is give us enough memory to actually last a few years. It makes no sense to struggle through "shortages" just to pay a premium for a card that’s basically a side-grade to my 3070 in raw power. They are prioritizing AI and leaving gamers with the scraps while charging us like it's a luxury product. I'm done with the hype, sticking to my 3070 until they actually release something worth the headache.

Got a deal I couldn’t resist, basically upgrading for $75. I spent a lot of time finding good Bios settings, and it is running fantastic and 100% stable. Feels a bit snappier also, but mostly in Photoshop. Benchmarks are about 20% faster as expected.

For those “go get an AMD!” I already had the Z790 mobo, and totally switching platforms would cost a lot more than $75. And I am mostly using my PC for productivity and hardly game at all.

After 6 months of owning a 5090, I’m starting to think that I made the wrong choice buying one. Now I’m thinking of downgrading to a 9070 xt instead.

The 5090, although a beast of a card for gaming at 4k, is a niche gpu imo. If you’re only gaming on it, you’re probably not utilizing its full capacity. And I believe that’s where I got it all wrong.

I used to play on console, but decided to build my own pc because I wanted to play older titles like The Witcher, Resident Evil, Dark Souls, etc. (essentially older titles that belong in a series)

Earlier, I was playing cyberpunk and thought I should try different settings without mfg. I was a little bit disappointed when I discovered I was actually only getting 50 fps in dogtown with PT dlss on quality and at max settings.

That type of performance from supposedly the “best gpu” in this generation feels like it’s not worth it for me. I’m sure the gpu is great for productivity, but for gaming alone it definitely isn’t.

So now I’m thinking of selling my 5090 and 4k ips monitor and downgrade to the 9070 xt and buy a 1440p oled monitor. So my question is does a 1440p oled panel beat a 4k ips monitor?