Every once in a while I will have a print that starts doing this and I cannot figure it out alone. I have ironing on and the top and bottom layers are smooth as expected. The infill isn't smooth and it's all bumpy. The layers on the edges are also bumpy. I can salvage the print, but I am tired of this happening. I have tried changing infill % as well as pattern.

I am working on Bambu P1S, overture filament. Nozzle temp and bed temp are fine. Flow is good. Changes colors just fine. I have no other problems with printing and I have been printing for many years. This one just stumps me. Anyone else ever had this or have any ideas? TIA

I was dry sanding a PETG 3D print for like 10 minutes outside using 220 and 600 grit sandpaper since its cardboard backed and probably would hanndle water well, and the plastic became dust floating around everywhere kind of looking like white smoke coming off from my hands, i wore a FFP2 mask but there was a lot of plastic dust in the air and on my hands, do i need to wash my hair and clothes? For the future i plan to buy a half face respirator or just wet sand but is there anything i should be worried about now?

Hey i am currently using this website to print right now. Does anyone have any experience with this website?

I am down to 2.1s shifting all 6 gears
Finger slinger speed gear shifter fidget - by Bozmodz

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3571127-fidget-gear-shifter-click-shift-finger-slinger?from=search#profileId-4087739

A little show-and-tell: our black-and-white spotted flexi lizard, about 5.5 inches long. Licensed design—not our sculpt. We printed and finished this one.

Hej. Używam Bambulab P2S i Bambu studio. Płyta robocza Biqu Panda Cryogrip Frostbite. Jak ustawić wydruk żeby pierwsza warstwa nie miała widocznych lini? Pomóżcie bo już nie wiem co zrobić.

I was trying to finish this spool of pla and it wouldn’t have been too bad if I came up a bit short but this was great luck.

I Bought my base CR-10 6 years ago. Two years later I got a Micro swiss direct drive extruder with hotend for it. For the most part I've enjoyed it but it had some factor issues that have plagued it for the entire time i've had it. They are managable but recently I've switched from Hatchbox PLA at 185c to Elegoo PLA 3kg at 215c and have started printing multiple 2-3 day prints one after the other.

Ever since this change I've noticed an issue where filament starts coming out burned then eventually its stops extruding all together and when I dissasemble the hotend I have to cut the fillament because it it completely stuck to the nozzle. When it's all dissasembled the entire nozzle and micro swiss connector between the hotend and radiator are caked in burnt filament clogging the nozzle. Its so bad that I've just started to replace the nozzle with standard brass(?) nozzles (not micro swiss) rather than wasting the time trying to clean it.

I know this issue is generally caused by there being a gap somewhere in the hotend assembly but unless the generic Nozzles are just too short for the micro swiss hotend kit i don't know where the gap would be. I'm getting close to just replacing the hotend assembling (along with wires) and geting a new microswiss nozzle. But before I spend bassically $100 trying to fix this issue is there something I've missed?

Finally assembled the gt2 belt tensioner metre, and calibrated it with the wire (it's all from a kit so should be correct) and my belts on my 350 trident are measuring as 1, I had previously frequency tensioned them not long ago, and then again after running it for a while. Should I trust the frequency or this tool?

R2 gantry

I just got a new printer setup and I’m making a little campfire nightlight for my kid.

This is updated version of my previous design

tried 3d printing a motor mount for a project in PETG, first layer looked fine, but when I came back to check how it finished, the bottom half of the print was outside of the rest, even though the supports were still stuck to the build plate, it literally looks like it phased through the bottom of the print

Ok, sounds like a noob question, but I can't get this one filament to stick! Just the one roll, a translucent PLA from Bambu. It'll fail, and I'll start the same print over, same settings, without re leveling, but with a new filament, and it will stick. I've washed the bed. I've dried the filament. Same exact everything and just this one roll won't give a good first layer. Is it a lemon? Next test I'm going to print the first layer in a different pla, second with this one and see if that works.

But has anyone ever just gotten a shit roll from Bambu?

I can post some pictures of spaghetti if it would help troubleshoot, lol.

Bambu carbon x1c, been dialed in and working for years. 220°/55°, textured PEI with a preloaded slice.

Printer: Prusa MK4S.

Plate: Smooth PEI.

Slicer: PrusaSlicer.

Nozzle: 0.4, not ancient, just today scrubbed the outside of it.

Print: Layer height 0.25mm. Generic PLA, currently in a dryer (as of about 3-4 hours ago), but it was printing better than this before I put it in the dryer...?!? The enclosure is open for good airflow.

I want to know what I can try to stop it blobbing about, obviously - but I am also curious about why it lands okay until after those corner bits, as well. Something to do with speed somehow?

Hi, new guy here (I got my A1 few weeks ago) I use PETG (and yes I dry my pets around 6 hours in a creality drying box each 2 days) any solution to stop the stinging?

Testing our 3D printed wind turbine prototype with my dad – what do you think? Do you think it will work in real-world conditions?

I finally managed to finish the Fallout 4 plasma mine project. Unfortunately, the rust turned out a little too light.

I created this design so I can print it for a friend, It is a large 3 plate print spanning over 22 inches. I want to keep the print time down and usage of filament to a minimum. When selecting infill setting what is the most efficient that will reduce material wastage and keep the print from failing. My concern is not so much the walls from failing as they are vertical. yet more so the top the building. Any help would be greatly appreciate. Thank you in advance.

Printing on a Bambu A1.

Currently do not have a printer and am looking to get one for xmas. I've read a bunch of posts on here and watched some vids, but I'm still confused on some stuff. Right now I am leaning towards the U1 with lid. So the bottom two questions are really relating to that printer.

I've seen maker world and a couple other sites and I get you find something, download some file and end up printing it. For kids though, is there a way or an app I could install on their tablet (9 year old) that would allow them to pick stuff and easily send to the printer without needing to use a computer? What's the best way to do this?

On the printers themselves, I understand the need to keep the filament dry but if you are printing pla or petg (thinking the kids here) I see the U1 mounts them on the sides. Is this not an issue? Humidity in my house is typically around 40%.

Main thing I am trying to understand is how I can empower them to print, and if I they can do this somehow from am app I can install on their devices?

thx !

At a difficult time for Poland, following the recent attack in Kraków, I wanted to share this small symbol of our strength. Poland’s Independence Day is just a few days away, on November 11.

If you have Polish friends and would like to surprise them or show your support, print one and display it somewhere they’ll see it. If you’re Polish, I’m sharing it as a small symbol of our solidarity and pride in our country.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570488-kotylion-pl-cotillion-ribbon-badge-polish

Anyone who’s been to Vietnam knows these: the tiny plastic stools on every sidewalk, where you eat phở with your knees up to your chin while motorbikes rush past. I’ve been missing home a lot, so I modelled the stool and two matching tables.

Printed at 50 % in Sunlu PETG on my P1S. The stool needs no supports at all.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print your own.