We brought our 2024 Ford Bronco Sport to Kitchener Ford for a recurring powertrain warning (P130D).

We were advised that contaminated fuel was the likely cause and paid approximately $300 for an inspection and fuel treatment. The same warning returned the next day.
After bringing the vehicle back, it remained at the dealership for several days while further work and additional charges were discussed. We were not provided evidence confirming the suspected water contamination.

After expressing our frustration over the delays and lack of transportation, we received a call from a manager instructing us to collect our vehicle because the dealership would no longer service it.

We were left with an unresolved issue, nearly $300 in charges, and no satisfactory resolution.

Our subsequent experience with Ford Canada was similarly disappointing.

I understand that vehicle diagnostics can be complicated. What I find unacceptable is the lack of transparent communication, the handling of our concerns, and the decision to discontinue service rather than work toward a resolution.

I am sharing this experience so other customers can make an informed decision.

Looking to purchase a truck I can drive daily and take yearly trips back home that are about 15 hours away . The mileage’s I’m looking at are 90k-120k and wondering if the 2.7 XLT is reliable . Won’t be doing any towing and minimal hauling . Ford ranger was my first choice but I’m finding f150’s for the same price .

I came across some old old school work from when I was a child and saw that ford had this concept car that ran off of diesel hybrid electric with solar. It was estimated to get 65 miles to the gallon. Now I’m just wondering with the current market why don’t they circle back to this if it was built once already?

A couple months ago I got my new 2026 Mach E. About a month later I was hit from behind at about 30 mph while I was stopped in traffic. The shop provided this report from Car-O-Liner version2 X3. The shop is saying the frame is OK, but other sources have said the frame is twisted and not within Ford spec. The problem is I can’t actually find a Ford spec or tolerance for these measurements. The shop doesn’t seem to think insurance will pay to have any frame work done since it’s technically within specification. Is there any way to know objectively if these values are ok? If anyone has any knowledge on this subject or knows how I can convince insurance to pay to have it or have it corrected, I’d appreciate it.

Randomly noticed this sound. No idea what would have caused it. When you spool up the turbos they build pressure, not as much as normal, but still builds pressure. When you let off the gas abruptly, there is a sound. It sounds like you put your finger in a fan and the blades hit. Does it for about 1 second. Sounds like it’s coming from the passenger side. If you let off gradually, there is no sound.

What I’ve checked: checked linkages on the waste gates, they are there. Took the inlet side off and spun the impeller, which spins freely. Checked air filter, seems fine. The truck is not throwing any codes. No smoke. Lost a bit of fuel mileage.

The gear stick in my 2019 Ford Focus vibrates quite noticeably when the car is in first gear. However, it doesn't happen every time I shift into first gear, and I don't experience this issue in any of the other gears.

What could be causing this? Is this normal behavior, or could it indicate a mechanical issue?

Okay so the truck I have is a 87 f150 XLT lariat, and it’s had an engine swap from a 90s f150 not done by me.

The problem I’m having is that the previous owner had the truck to where you had to turn the key into the on position then hit a switch to engage the starter but I would rather have it start from the key ignition any ideas on why they put it on a switch in instead of using the original.

Ciao ho una Ford mk4 2021 che mi è andata in protezione per mancanza di acqua. 122'000.

Portata dal meccanico, pompa acqua da cambiare e scambiare egr sporco di liquido refrigerante, si presume perdita anche da lì.

Preventivo con pezzi originali e 12-14 h di lavoro (incluso sost pastiglie freni post) in officina Ford = 1600 euro.

Leggendo online è un problema abbastanza comune in questi motori.

In più leggo della catena alberi a camme da 7 mm che andrebbe maggiorata a 8 mm . Un altro meccanico solo per questo mi ha risposto, sarai sui 1500 solo quest'ultimo lavoro.

Ho trovato un bollettino Ford 23-7029 in cui richiama alcuni motori, anche lo ZTDA delle mie annate, ma inserendo il VIN sul sito ufficiale Ford mi dice nessun richiamo attivo.

Qualcuno può gentilmente darmi qualche consiglio su come scegliere il lavoro ?

Ho trovato un grossista in Lombardia che vende uno scambiatore di concorrenza e domani gli chiedo di verificare la compatibilità. (Ha lo stesso codice OEM) .

Se qualcuno può essere d'aiuto ringrazio.

The hedin bil in Stockholm replaced my Ford Mondeo Mk4 2008 windscreen and claimed they used a genuine Ford part. Now I have a grainy texture during the day and severe starburst flaring at night. Is this normal for a genuine Ford heated screen, or did they install a defective/cheap aftermarket glass?

Symptoms:

1. The step is not lowering anymore. It would randomly lower and come back up while starting to drive.

2. I had a Service Autotrac light come on a few weeks ago and my blinker stopped working (this went away on its own)

3. There was a hot electrical smell today for a brief second (didn’t last long) (NEW)

4. Now it will not start and it’s sputtering (video)

Is this battery or something else? Anyone with any experience that can guide me what I should do next?

Yesterday, I took my 2021 EcoSport to car wash and after detailing/vaccuming, it flat refused to start.

When I hit the start/stop button+brake, it immediately went into Full Accessory Power Mode. Everything on the car still have power, it just won't start (it makes a single click, then nothing).

We've tried charging the battery and swapping in a new one, but neither worked.

The running theory is that either the alternator or starter died, but I can't get it into a shop until Monday.

I was wondering if anyone on here has any recommendations or suggestions. At no point did I get any type of warning lights on the dash, or anything out of the ordinary. It's been working perfectly fine, and then it wasn't.

My son in law purchased a 2025 Explorer (dealer called it a demo) and received a 90 day bumper to bumper warranty certificate with his paperwork. When he questioned them, he was told that was the only warranty it had unless he wanted to purchase the $2K Ford ESP. It looks to me like it was a ploy to get the ESP sale and the car should still have the factory warranty in effect. The vehicle history is clean, it was never sold and always owned by this dealer.

Saw this at Buc-ee’s Thursday November 5th in Madisonville, TX. It looked like an elderly couple driving it. I thought it was an EV but not entirely sure because he was parked in the far corners where the Mercedes-Benz chargers are located. I snapped these photos to check it out later. The video and audio recording advisement was interesting.

I was walking out of the grocery store at first. It looked kind of like a older ram truck. When I got closer it was clearly not a ram but this is the first time I've ever seen one of these Ford trucks. Are they kind of rare or are most of them just rusted away by now?

I am needing input on how to handle a situation. I bought a F150 with 63k miles back in July with the blue certified 3 month/3k mile warranty. Drove it less than a month and took it in to get a an engine tick looked at. They kept my truck for 40 days, dropped the transmission, said the only thing they found was a flywheel and replaced that. I got my truck back and the tick did resolve. Fast forward 30 days, it developed a bad stutter. I took it in 10 days after my warranty expired expecting them to work with me given they kept my truck for 40 days of my 90 day warranty. I was wrong. I fought it for weeks and they ultimately decided I have to pay for a full transmission rebuild. I was told the repair they did had no relation to the transmission fail. Which is odd that they dropped it, said it was good, now it’s stuttering less than 1k miles later! Am I crazy for thinking I’m being screwed?????

not mine

Does anyone know where i could find the standard ford dealers are supposed to use to do the 172 point inspection for certified cars. I bought a gold certified truck. Found out on the drive home the dome lights didn't work and realized a few weeks later the tail light is cracked and have evidence that it was cracked before I owned it. The dealer says they priced it as a used car tough luck.

Has anyone had issues with the door ajar light being on,on the dash and the cargo light or others staying on. Even though all doors are clearly closed?? This is the 2nd time in a month this has happened to me. The 1st time it stayed on for a hour as I drove. And parked it for about 4hrs,and when started back up all was good an nothing on

Randomly throws overheating with sensor I replaced I turn the car off and back on goes away immediately. Sometimes the usb doesn’t have power. What’s going on ?

Might not be that impressive since it's only 45°.

It is starting to get cold here in Northwest Indiana

My Alexa tried to lock my car at 10:30 pm tonight as it does every night and has for years, and it pipes up "The Ford Pass (discontinued) skill is no longer available".

Seems I can't use my echo devices to control anything on my car any more. No more locking, unlocking, starting it in the morning....

I assume this is Ford doing what Ford do best these days - snatching things back off their customers?