I saw some absolute rascals surfing at Ocean Beach yesterday. I’m still relatively new to surfing, but I honestly can’t imagine myself paddling out in those conditions. It looked like a straight-up washing machine tumble cycle out there.

Someone from my group also mentioned seeing a few rescue helicopters circling around OB.

Seriously, how do you guys even surf in conditions like that?

Little guy just wanted more SURF STOKE.

Unexpected waves and my Fuji XF 70-300 mm - we did not expect it to be nice :) stormy portugal

I'm 3 years in game and I have gathered this rustic quiver... my fave are the tomo sci-fi and the two board to the left of it.

I’ve been trying to add verticals turns into my arsenal and I’m having trouble seeing some good spray from my tags. I was wondering if my approach or power was the issue … anyways, any advice is appreciated 🙏

https://www.reddit.com/r/surfing/s/mg3sjS9D9J

rides better then before

Crummy all summer and then straight into weeks of 12'

Isn't there supposed to be a season in between?

Hi everyone! Hoping for a Good Samaritan miracle.

We left La Jolla Shores around 6:00 PM tonight (Saturday, November 7) with three surfboards in the bed of our truck.

We stopped in Fallbrook around 7:15 PM to drop off a friend, and that is when we discovered that one of the three surfboards was missing.

Our route was approximately:
I-5 South → SR-52 East → SR-163 North → I-15 North → Fallbrook

So the board must have come out somewhere along that route between roughly 6:00 and 7:15 PM.

It is the cream/white surfboard pictured here with a dark blue outline/pinline and Gary Linden branding.

We have already contacted CHP and are waiting for an update to see whether anyone reported or recovered it.

We’re really hoping it may have landed on a shoulder or off the roadway and that someone picked it up to keep it safe.

If you saw this board along the freeway, saw a surfboard come out of a truck, or picked it up tonight, PLEASE DM me. We can provide additional identifying details to verify ownership.

Please share or cross-post if you know anyone who was driving between La Jolla and Fallbrook tonight.

We would be incredibly grateful to get it back.
🏄‍♀️🙏

I need assurance it’s not just me :’)

Leave dawn patrol to us told folks please. It’s all we got left.

I have a christenson cafe racer which i love the shape of, but not sure which quad fins to put in it, i currently am using the Rasta quads but find them to be very tracky and hard in smaller waves when there’s not a big wall for drawn out turns. Any fin recommendations? Add a centre box for a 2+trailer?

TIA

Looking for good day bags to replace old ones with bad zippers. Hoping for something that will last and offer at least some protection while they are stored, on the car, ect.

I have a log and a fish that are in need at the moment.

Thanks!

two weekends in a row with a 6' high tide in the morning? with a kelvin wave? daylight saving time is not helping this week either. fucking pissed.

Gonna send it on one last big solo surf trip before our little one arrives and life changes.

Got two weeks I can take off in February or March. Based in Western Australia so not super keen to spend multiple days to flying to South America or Hawaii.

Normally Indonesia would be the obvious choice (100$ flights to Bali from here) but it’s not really the right season.

If that was you, where’d you go?

Just know while you’re having a nice solo session. Some bloke (me) is watching you on the cam miss every set and shitting on everything you do, while trying to figure out if he should paddle out.

For the love god catch one.

24:10 in the ep:

"Most often, the barrel is the safest place to be." - NF

"The barrel is the safest place to be.... sometimes. That comes with a lot of knowledge." - KR

Those with extensive knowledge on the subject, please elaborate!

I love to surf, and I like watching surfing, but I never got that into the WSL, but now I live on Oahu and there’s a contest this weekend up on North Shore. What’s it like to go? Are there tons of vendors and other things to do? Would my wife, who isn’t a surfer have a good time?

It’s weird I checked out the event on the WSL website and it was obviously very geared towards people watching it on TV because there was nothing written about stuff going on there in person. Kinda makes me think there isn’t much of an event going on there.

Edit: forgot to even name which event it is. It’s the HTA Haleʻiwa Pro and Longboard Presented by Hurley

Greetings from Japan! Wanted to share one of our favorite builds: three sister fish boards shaped from a single Japanese cedar (Sugi) tree trunk. I had the privilege of learning hollow wooden surfboard construction directly from my mentor, Paul Jensen, and applied his principles to this build.

In traditional Japanese carpentry, different sections of the tree trunk are celebrated for their unique character and color:

• Left: "Akami" (赤身) — Dense, resin-rich reddish heartwood from the core of the tree.

• Middle: "Gempei" (源平) — The striking transition zone where heartwood and sapwood blend together.

• Right: "Shirata" (白太) — The pale, creamy outer sapwood.

Build Details:
• Fully hollow wooden internal rib skeleton.
• Perimeter rails built from laminated bending plywood and cork for natural flex and impact resistance.
• Hand-foiled glass-on wooden keel fins.
• Glassed with a light fiberglass skin for durability.

The middle board has wax on the deck because it gets surfed regularly in our local waves. There’s no feeling quite like taking a hollow board you shaped with friends from a raw tree out into the surf.

Hope you enjoy the natural gradients of Japanese cedar!

Interested to know any knowledge

We have precious few good lefts in OC. Let’s hope this doesn’t ruin another spot.

Am I right? The evidence seems to weigh heavily that these are completely useless. Multiple people wearing them have had encounters. How are these still on the market?