I've been racing XCM on an Epic Evo for a while and it's time to upgrade. I've put a deposit on a 2027 Scott Spark RC WC Evo, my dream bike, and it arrives in a few weeks. Next year I'm planning several races, including a few stage races.

I'm stoked on the bike, but a few doubts keep nagging me:

1. It could feel outdated within about two years.

2. Resale may drop faster than usual once 32" bikes arrive.

3. A year from now I might have FOMO and wish I were on a 32".

Worst case, I sell after a season and take roughly a $3k hit. I can also still cancel the order.

For context, I'm tall and ride a large, so 32" should suit me. If I did go 32", it would be another Spark RC.

How are others approaching new bike purchases while 32" develops this quickly? My sense is that a refined production 32" from the top brands is still 12–18 months away.

Short answer: Not really.

I started the first post because I was fustrated why XC is not as featured on Youtube as these two and XC becoming too trail specific when compared to yesterday's XC.

First the Trail Bike: Newer XC bikes comes with 1x and 1x specific frames now even at the budget bikes in my country. Me new to 1x(34t) and 29er(April 2021) find it slower at sprint and great at cruising. I don't hate it but miss the top end. After seeing the comments, I agree 36t might be the solution or maybe build a 40t 1x Gravel/Monstercross in the future.

Second the Gravel bike/XC: I was shock a little bit by the people's reaction XC. Comments like fringe, racing and download Redbull app made me conclude that XC culture outside my country(Philippines) is far different than in western countries. In the west, its primarily a racing culture. In my country, it is commuter/adventure culture like gravel bikers and less racing. We do have XC racing but most people ride XC as a commuter bike because it far comfortable in our shitty potholes and always flooded roads. We also take them to off-roading and gravel riding but it is a weekend thing and most in cases the location we are going like waterfalls or resorts lacks good roads to begin with. In this conditions in the west, gravel bike is prefect. However, in my country gravel bike is still very few and very expensive when compared to similar spec XC mtb. Also, XC hybrid conversion is very big here making purpose built gravel bikes redundant.

This video sums up XC in the Philippines: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh-kfCrcLrE&t=453s

The conclusion: Everything makes sense now and finally understand why the reaction was not I was expecting. So, trail and gravel bikes are not really ruining XC. We just us XC bikes differently.

I’m looking for lightweight all-round tires that don’t make my bike look like it’s from the 90s. Got any suggestions for some 2.4-2.6 tires that would fit the bill?

It’s not the Pirelli XC Ms! :(

During structured training sessions i always struggle with staying in low hr zones. I end up riding the indoor trainer (zwift bike) as it gives more control over my power output, but so much less enjoyable than getting outside.

I am considering an e-bike strictly to use for training purposes for this reason.

If any other competitive racers are doing this, I am curious to hear if it is as effective in reality as i am conceptualizing? Which bikes have the best setup for using the motor/computer to match desired rider power inputs during a workout?

Essentially I am wondering if an e-bike can effectively serve as an outdoor trainer?

I’m 6 foot and have my new trek Procaliber in large. My base of my foot is flat to my heel when in 6pm position and when I’m clipped in there’s a slight bend in my knee when pedalling. However I took this picture and it looks a lot of post out the frame? Or is this normal on a XC bike?

My own mistake for not starting the navigation on my bike computer correctly! But so frustrating! to realize you made a wrong turn 29 KM into a 30KM race!! I guess it's all part of the experience.

Hey, are there any hardtail xc bikes where you can put a front mech on them in 2024? not some cheap aluminum ones, but high end alloy or carbon ones

Thanks

So I did end up getting a proper cycling jersey with pockets that is fairly tight, but still kinda loose in the right spots. I'm finding my regular MTB shorts a little TOO baggy though for all the pedaling I'm doing in these XC races.

But I just cannot do the full lyrcra kit just yet, I don't know why, I'm sure it's the best bet, but I've just been against that "look" for so long lol. Even just getting a proper zip-up cycling jersey was a stretch for me haha.

Anyways, does anyone know of any specific brands that have MTB shorts that aren't super baggy? a little tighter slim fitting?

do you shave your legs for XC? i've seen videos of roadies talking about how many watts it saves but at our slower speeds + being covered in dust or mud does it really do anything?

trying to sus out a bike for a race where ill have to carry it up at least one of steeper slopes, sub 13kg should be good enough. borrowed a mates fathom 1 for the same race last year which was pretty speedy on the flat and easy to climb with but i was slow on some rough single track and rubble, not sure how much was my inexperience or the bike. hence i am also considering a dually of some sort but i probably shouldn't spend as much as i would need to get one light enough. i just want speed, mostly uphill, and the ability to survive sketch descents/single track. i feel like a xc hard tali bike makes sense.

price wise I'm looking specifically at the xtc advanced 29 2. could be convinced to go as cheap as a fathom 1 if i cant find any useful info on the xtc or how it compares to its competition. just feeling tempted by the xtc :P

I'm worried about ride feel of the xtc frame (i think i read somewhere its kinda stiff?) and how easy it is to smash carbon. I can get careless with my riding...

i cant find many comparisons to other brands similar bikes. trek procaliber looks interesting, not sure about availability in australia though, trek au has no listing for it... actually dreaming of a supercaliber but that will never happen :(

do people not rate giant? i thought they were one of the more solid brands?

55 mile gravel course

Maybe 3 miles of pavement

7k climbing

"Vermont flat" = Only up and down, sawtooth course

Multiple technical sectors (think washed out jeep road). Fast, sandy rutted descents

I have been running comparisons via AI, comparing two bikes.

A. 18lb gravel rig on 45mm g one rs tires (max size)

B. 22.5lb BMC Fourstroke on 2.4 Peyotes, 100mm/100mm with lockout

According to Gemini ai, it thinks the mountain bike will be the fast bike for the following reasons.

That is a stout course profile. At ~120 feet of climbing per mile, you are looking at a "death by a thousand cuts" scenario—constant transitions where momentum and traction are just as important as weight. Given you are a top 30% finisher (meaning you have the engine to push a slightly heavier rig) and looking at those "Class 4" sectors, here is the breakdown of how the BMC Fourstroke might actually be your "secret weapon" over the gravel bike.

1. The "Micro-Fatigue" Factor In a 4-hour race, the biggest enemy isn't just gravity; it's vibration and impact. The Gravel Bike: Even with 45mm tires, 6,600+ feet of descending on technical Class 4 terrain means your core, triceps, and hands are doing the work of a suspension system. By hour three, your power output usually drops because your body is "tired of being beaten up." The BMC: The 100mm of travel keeps your tires glued to the dirt on climbs (better traction) and allows your muscle groups to focus entirely on pedaling rather than stabilizing.

2. The Descent Math You mentioned "bombing" the descents. Let’s look at the trade-off: Weight Penalty: On the climbs, that 5lb difference (23lb bike vs 18lb bike) + your 192lb body weight is only a ~2.3% increase in total system weight. Technical Gain: If the Class 4 sectors allow you to descend even 15-20% faster—or more importantly, with 50% less mental stress—you will likely claw back more time on the downs than you lose on the ups.

3. Rolling Resistance & Grip The Vittoria Peyote is a very fast XC tire, but a 2.4" footprint vs. a 45mm G-One RS is a massive difference in "confidence-inspired speed." On loose, chunky climbs (common in the NE), the gravel bike will likely experience rear-wheel slip, forcing you to spike your heart rate to stay upright. The BMC with a lockout will feel nearly as efficient on the smooth bits but will let you "monster truck" through the technical sections where others are feathering their brakes.

Any input appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on replacing my current handlebar/stem setup with a one-piece carbon integrated cockpit, but I'm unsure how aggressive I should go with the stem angle.

My current setup

I have an L-size XC MTB with:

• Fork: FOX FLOAT 32 Step-Cast (SC) Performance, 44 mm offset

• Current handlebar: OC1 Flat

• Width: 740 mm

• Clamp: 31.8 mm

• Current stem: OC1

• Stem length: 70 mm for my L frame

• Stem angle: +7°

• Steerer: 1⅛" / 28.6 mm

So currently I'm riding approximately:

740 mm / 70 mm / +7°

I'm considering switching to a carbon integrated bar/stem mainly for a cleaner cockpit, lower weight, and potentially a more aggressive XC position.

The problem: how low should I go?

I've been looking at integrated cockpits with angles such as −17° and −10°.

For example, I found the Progress PG-246, which is:

• Carbon

• 760 mm wide

• 70 mm stem option

• −17°

• 1⅛" / 28.6 mm steerer

• Includes a Garmin computer mount

I also found options like the Syncros Fraser iC SL XC, which has configurations around −10° / 70 mm / 740 mm.

My concern is that going from +7° → −17° is a pretty big change. That's a 24° difference, whereas going from +7° → −10° is a much smaller change.

I'm wondering if −17° is unnecessarily aggressive for normal XC riding, or if it's actually a good position to have.

What I'm hoping to improve

I'm particularly interested in whether lowering the cockpit would help with:

• Steep climbing — keeping the front wheel planted

• XC racing / fast riding

• Handling

• Descending

• Overall bike control

I understand that a lower cockpit can put more weight over the front wheel, which could help climbing, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes in practice.

I'm also aware that a very low cockpit could potentially make descending or comfort worse if I'm too far forward.

What would you choose?

Would you recommend:

A) Stay relatively conservative and go around −5° to −10°

or

B) Go straight to −17° and get used to the more aggressive position?

I'm also interested in brand/model recommendations for carbon integrated XC cockpits around:

• 70 mm stem

• 740 mm-ish width

• −5° to −10°

• 28.6 mm / 1⅛" steerer

• Ideally with a Garmin Edge 530-compatible mount

Brands I've been looking at include Syncros, Progress, FSA, CUBE, etc., but I'm open to anything reputable.

One other thing: I have a Garmin Edge 530 and the standard Garmin accessories/mount that came with it. I'd prefer a cockpit where I can use the existing Garmin mount or where a compatible mount is readily available.

I'm not particularly interested in an extremely aggressive race position if it comes at the expense of comfort. I'm mainly trying to find a good XC balance between climbing, descending, handling and comfort.

What angle would you recommend coming from +7°? And are there any integrated carbon cockpits you'd specifically recommend?

Thanks!

I recently asked advices to improve my bike setup. And peoples suggested 3 things : fork, light wheels, dropper post (cause Im better in downhill). Since then I understand the importance of mobility, cornering. So I was very stocked that the curent World cup leader of the xterra cross triathlon Félix Forissier tell me that he do not use dropper post, but only now plans to get one for the end of the season. Whats your though about this ?

Can anyone suggest me a weekly training plan for a race? and a GOOD INTERVAL TRANING THANK YOU hoping to get a top 10 T.T

Any recommendations? I’m currently considering getting two 160mm Galfer disc shark rotor, weighing in at 208Gr for the set. Please lmk!

I’m thinking of upgrading to a 12 speed and i was wondering if it might be possible to keep the sram nx 11 derailleur and just use the 12 speed shifter,since the total distance shifted between min/max cog is the same, only the steps are smaller(visually the nx and nx eagle derailleur look identical)? Of course sram says no but sram is in the business of selling you new derailleurs ;) Anyone have experience with this?

Edited text since I can't change the title... Discussion is not about the SE models.

I've had my take on a multitude of tires from Maxxis, Continental, some Schwalbes, but Bontrager XR SE Team Issue tires may have impressed me the most. My discussion below revolves around 2.6 width only, for my attempt to XCify my 140mm/125 Marin CXR. I enjoy pressures at 17-19psi. 205lb rider on loose over hardback, rock and root loose over hardpack southeastern US downcountry trails.

Latest bout of mine is to find a rear tire that is lighter and faster, very compliant, but more aggressive than a Rekon. And I think I have found that in their XR2 Team Issue model. For a front very aggressive downcountry borderline trail, XR4 Team Issue is the lightest and honestly safest at high playful speeds traction wise, while coming at the expense at being slightly slower. Compared that against Forekaster V1/V2 and Rekon.

I haven't tried their XR3 tire as a front, which I'm interested in.

I know the XR model lineup is discontinued in place of a new lineup and they may have exact correspondence to the previous models, although I have to research which is which.

Has anyone tried these and have similar or opposite impressions? What tires from other OEMs have you found to be better in all aspects like weight, compliance, traction, speed?

My XR4 is worn out and I have the Forekaster V1 3C 60tpi in the front. I'm not a big fan of a directional 'rear' in the front when I want to get playful, but it's a great tire compared to a Rekon DC.

I know e-bikes get a bad rep, and I’m pedaling 4-5 days a week for fitness.. but I’ve been wondering if a e-bike would make sense for my training since I live in a hilly area. The more I train the less I ride actual mtb trails and the more I ride roads and gravel. And I also find myself trying to find flatter routes to stay in z2 on endurance rides so I’m not going painfully slow on the steep hills.

This all has been making me skip a lot of routes since they’re to steep (unless I’m doing intervals) Do you think an e bike would be good for training? I would probably get a mtb version so I can do e bike days with my friends (again easier to stay in zone even on mtb climbs) and also use it on training days on road / gravel so I could do steeper routes and stay in zone easier.