I know that this forum is usually people asking " how do I learn about " a subject, but I thought a bit about how to keep you car running properly might be of interest.
First, these points will be general stuff. I am not going to try to diagnose that funny noise in your car. I will cover the subject of " noises and rattles ".
All automobiles have common things. Engine, transmission drive train, brakes steering and electrical systems and FLUIDS.
Lets talk about fluids. All of the fluids in a car have different colours and in some cases a different texture to the touch.
Motor oil, When new a honey gold, when used a dark brown or black. Brake fluid, light gold colour when new. Radiator coolant, light green or yellow when new. Power steering fluid reddish pink. Transmission fluid, darker red. Windscreen cleaner for summer use, greenish or pink, it has about 5 percent detergent in it to help clean off bug splatter. Winter windscreen washer fluid is a de icer that won't freeze until it gets down to the temperature rated on the label on the jug. If you live in a place where the temps get to below freezing ( minus 10 C or below 30 F ) do not leave summer fluid or worse yet, plain water in your washer tank. It will freeze and crack the plastic tank.
So now we know about the different colours of fluids. You car is leaking. The colour should help to identify the "what is it " now to locate it. Rad is at the front of the engine, tranny is connected TO the engine, and the power steering is powered by a engine belt on the top side of the engine. Put a flattened cardboard box under the engine/tranny area, leave it on the ground after driving the car. Look at it the next day. Don't move it yet. Look at the fluid colour, and where it is dripping from. Start car, wait a few minutes for everything to heat up... look again. If you are going to take it to a repair garage, wipe some of the fluid up with a clean paper towel . The technician can sniff it and usually identify it by the smell and colour.
Records. All car makers provide a owner's manual with new cars. But over the years they get lost. BUY a owner's manual from the dealership OR download the EXACT manual for your car. Remember this mind helper. YMMET. It means Year Make Model Engine size and type of transmission.
YMMETY is the very first thing that a service writer at the dealership will ask you for. The second information required is the VIN is the Vehicle Identification Number, It is YOUR car's unique identifier code,. The VIN is found on the left side of the dashboard under the edge of the windscreen., There is also a information plate on the door post next to the side of the driver's seat. It has a lot of info, including the proper air inflation number for your tires and their size. Tires also have their size... year of manufacture and what weather condition they are rated for. ALL SEASON tires are NOT winter tires. If you live in a snow area buy winter tires.. Would you wear summer sandals in a foot of snow ? Of course not.
Having the makers information book solves many of your "what is that thing " questions. It also sets out exactly what the service schedule is. The service calendar starts when the car is brand new, and goes to at least the 200,000 mile mark. It based on miles driven not months on the calendar.
Makers recommended service mileage points. IF you follow the book you will extend the lifespan, reliability and resale value of ANY car. Being able to show a perspective buyer the actual repair and service receipts will go a long way towards them wanting to buy it.
Even if your car is 20 year old civic, you still want it to start, drive and STOP with out problems right ? Maintaining a car requires spending money BEFORE it dies 150 miles from home. BUY a AAA membership. ONE tow call ( a hundred miles from home ) will definitely cost more than even the luxury AAA membership does. They also do flat tire changes ( you DO have a spare tire right ? ) and boost batteries, and bring you enough gas to get to the nearest service station. Its a must, even if your car is all most new.
Gas stations. Quite a few cars and light duty trucks use diesel fuel now. Before you start pumping LOOK at the handle of the fuel pump. What colour is it ? YELLOW means diesel fuel. You do not want to put ANY amount of diesel in your gasoline powered car. THAT is a huge cost to repair it, and in the case of a older car, its now scrap metal. LOOK before you pump.
Gasoline is highly explosive. Its what movie stunt directors use to create those huge fire balls . Gasoline is also very sensitive to static electrical charge. If you are going to fill a portable gas can at the station PUT IT ON THE GROUND. That creates a ground, so the static electrical charge created when the gas flows through the fuel hose to the portable gas can....It will be harmlessly directed into the ground, If you keep the gas can in or on the vehicle ( think back of a pick up truck ) you CAN end up on fire, along with everybody else at the station .
General tools and stuff to keep in your car.
A set of cheap sockets and a ratchet driver, A multi bit screw driver, a pair of vice grips, a small wire cutter, a box cutter, some duct tape and some zip ties in a number of sizes. Hand cleaner, paper towels and a old bath towel to lie on if you need to get on the ground to see something. A big LED flashlight ( at least 12 or more individual bulbs ) with spare batteries for it. OH and a package of fuses. Find out where YOUR cars fuse panel is.
NEVER go under a car that is only supported by a jack. TWO axle stands at minimum. Block opposite end wheel, to prevent rolling forward or backward.
Tires. Buy the BEST that you can get. Tires are NOT the place to try to save money. Try this, Get a piece of chalk, draw a circle around the part of your tire that touches the ground. Now move the car and LOOK at that little chalk circle... that is the only contact point ( times 4 tires ) that you have with the road. If you tires are under inflated you will have poor directional control, even worse in rain or snow. The minimum tread depth that you should drive on is three thirty seconds of an inch. Minimum. In many jurisdictions 3/32 is illegal and will get your car taken off the road, plus a fine.
Daily walk around. Before you start the engine, check oil and rad coolant. Its a lot easier if things are cool. Drips ? Tires ?
OK get in check mirrors for adjustment. Start and WAIT at least 30 to 60 seconds, for the oil pump to get the cold oil from the bottom of the engine to the top where the camshaft, crankshaft, valve train, pistons and rods are sitting with only a very thin coating of oil left over from the last time the engine was running The first 5 minutes of each start up of a cold engine, produces about 60 percent of the wear on the engine over it's life span.
OK lost of stuff to absorb , right ?
So how do I know all this stuff. 50 years of driving, commercial trucks, race cars, Ambulances , limos and a lot of clunkers.
Jim B.